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Zimbabwe updates?

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Old Monday 18th November 2013, 15:05   #1
Jens Thalund
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Zimbabwe updates?

Hello,
I'll be heading to Zimbabwe in January, primarily visiting sites in the east of the country, as my main focus will be on the Eastern Highlands, wetlands in and around Harare and Miombo birds in this general area.
There is not a lot of recent information on birding in Zimbabwe, and though I'll be relying on the Southern African Birdfinder, I wonder if anyone has some useful updates to the sites mentioned in the book, as it's now been a few years since it got published.
I'm hoping to visit Bvumba Highlands and Honde valley in the east, stopping off at Great Zimbabwe on my way there, before going towards Harare and some (hopefully) interesting dambo-birding, as well as Haka Park and Gosho Park for Miombo birds.
I would appreciate any information regarding access, possible camping sites and naturally any interesting sightings of the special birds.

Jens
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Old Wednesday 27th November 2013, 18:29   #2
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Jens, I keep an eye on this forum and there's rarely a post - so it's quite a coincidence that your message appeared just a few days before I head out to Zim, i.e. this Saturday 30th. I'll be birding most of the sites you mention (with 2 friends and a guide) and will post an update later in December.
All the best,
Andy.
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Old Thursday 28th November 2013, 14:33   #3
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Thanks Andy,
reading recent travel updates on backpacking fora it seems, that the country is just in the early stages of getting the tourist trade going again, so every bit of gen would be valuable to me.
Look forward to hear more from your trip - enjoy

Jens
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Old Thursday 5th December 2013, 19:24   #4
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E highlands and Gosho Park birding

Hi There Jens
I have birded those areas a few times and will be going back to Harare, Gosho Park and E highlands at the end of January 2014. Might see you there! The bird guide was pretty accurate still for those places and I have got many lifers there, 12 on one memorable two day stay at Seldom Seen, Bvumba area. We basically had the place to ourselves. You need a local guide to get the best out of these areas in my opinion. Most of the lodges will have such a guide. I am using someone from Harare, Tony Wood, who I've teamed up with twice before. What are your intended dates?
Cheers
Peter

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Originally Posted by Jens Thalund View Post
Thanks Andy,
reading recent travel updates on backpacking fora it seems, that the country is just in the early stages of getting the tourist trade going again, so every bit of gen would be valuable to me.
Look forward to hear more from your trip - enjoy

Jens
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Old Thursday 5th December 2013, 20:00   #5
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Trip report from when I visited in March / April this year, which included some time in the Eastern Highlands.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=254989
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Old Friday 6th December 2013, 15:18   #6
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Hi Peter,
I'll be in Zimbabwe in the first half of January, so unfortunately will probably not bump into you along the way.

I usually don't use guides, as I get a big kick out of finding the birds myself, relying on a relaxed itinerary which allows for extra time at sites, where I feel I could do better.

What's the rains been like in Southern Africa so far this year? I see you're from Cape Town, which is a world away from Zim I know, but Denmark is even further away. Just wondering, what the wetlands will be like around Harare, and if Nylsvlei would perhaps be a worthwile place to visit on my way to/from Jo'burg.

Cheers

Jens
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Old Friday 6th December 2013, 15:29   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Harper View Post
Trip report from when I visited in March / April this year, which included some time in the Eastern Highlands.

http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=254989
Hi Mark,
very nice tripreport you've posted, especially your close encounters with the Wild Dogs. They will have to wait for another trip, as I'm skipping lowveld and bushveld this time around.

In your search for Zambesi Indigobirds in Burma Valley, did you merely make random stops along the road, or was there a more specific area where you looked for them?

BirdlifeZimbabwe has a good section on birdingsites on there website, including the Cecil Kop reserve, which I'm planning to visit.

Cheers

Jens
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Old Friday 6th December 2013, 16:45   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Thalund View Post

In your search for Zambesi Indigobirds in Burma Valley, did you merely make random stops along the road, or was there a more specific area where you looked for them?

BirdlifeZimbabwe has a good section on birdingsites on there website, including the Cecil Kop reserve, which I'm planning to visit.

Cheers

Jens
It was pretty much a case of stopping and scanning around for Indigobirds and then chasing them down. Fortunately in the early morning they like to sit up in dead trees.
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Old Friday 6th December 2013, 19:06   #9
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Hi Jens
I've just come back from a trip through Namibia via the Caprivi to Vic Falls. Most areas were very dry with only patchy green areas from rain but superb birding. When we left Vic Falls on 23 November the rains had just 'broken' I'm not sure what the situation is like in Harare re the dambos but by January they should have started filling up. Miombo should be good anytime. Not sure about Nylsvlei. Will see what I can find out.
Cheers
Peter
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Old Sunday 8th December 2013, 14:48   #10
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Thanks to both of you

Jens
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Old Friday 13th December 2013, 21:58   #11
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I now someone who just got back from birding there I can give you his email if you wish. if so send private message.
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Old Saturday 14th December 2013, 15:37   #12
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Jens - just back and here's the itinerary we did for starters (birding sites and: accommodation) - will post more detail soon but do ask if you have specific Qs in the meantime,
Andy.


Cecil Kop, Mutare: Zim - Torksey Guest House, The Bvumba
Bvumba (Torksey) and Chicamba Dam loop: Mo - Nhambita Camp, Gorongosa
Gorongosa mountain: Mo - Mphingwe Lodge, Catapu
Coutada 12 - long day! Mo - Mphingwe Lodge, Catapu
Coutada 12 & village areas close by: Mo - Mphingwe Lodge, Catapu
Zambesi & village areas: Mo - Mphingwe Lodge, Catapu
Mphingwe Lodge :Mo - Mphingwe Lodge, Catapu
Mphingwe Lodge and Nhambita Camp: Mo - Nhambita Camp, Gorongosa
Gorongosa NP: Zim - Seldomseen Guest House, The Bvumba
Bvumba (Seldomseen) and Honde Valley: Zim - Aberfoyle Lodge, Honde Valley
Gleneagles and Mutarazi Falls: Zim - Far and Wide Cottages, Nyanga
Goshso Park - long day! Zim - Crake Cottage, Harare
Christon Bank and Harare lakes: fly home
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Old Sunday 15th December 2013, 12:29   #13
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Hi Andy -
I look forward to hear more from your trip, though I won't head into Mo (at least not this time around), but it will be very interesting to hear some up-to-date birdnews.

Jens
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Old Sunday 15th December 2013, 15:55   #14
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Cecil Kop, Mutare
Torksey Guest House, The Bvumba
Seldomseen Guest House, The Bvumba
Honde Valley
Aberfoyle Lodge, Honde Valley
Gleneagles and Mutarazi Falls
Far and Wide Cottages, Nyanga
Gosho Park
Crake Cottage, Harare
Christon Bank and Harare lakes

Jens,
Here are a few notes on the Zim sites above:

Cecil Kop – we only had a short afternoon visit, longer would have been better and early morning. Our itinerary made several visits to decent, roadside miombo but most were not early morning. If you’re birding the miombo, make sure you make some early morning visits as activity will be so much better.

Torksey Guest House – a nice place to stay and we birded from the back garden and into the local forest. Very nice and gave good views of Swynnerton’s Robin and Orange-ground Thrush amongst plenty of others. Hopefully the guest house details can be found on the web.

Seldomseen – another nice place to stay and here we had the well-known guide Bulawesi. His main task was to show us crimsonwing, which he did. He’s quite expensive at USD5 per person per hour but good and can be booked through the guest house. We came close to Buff-spotted Flufftail but Bulawesi saw them recently with chicks so it’s not surprising that they were difficult to temp out.

We didn’t try for the indigobird being assured they were out of plumage and very hard to ID or locate…

Aberfoyle Lodge is a nice place to stay. There’s a local guide there, Mason, also very good – and also expensive. He came up to Gleneagles with us (long drive in 4x4) for Blue Swallow (seen well) and Striped Flufftail (only heard briefly). We’d have had more chance with the flufftail if we’d made it to Gleneagles earlier than mid-morning on a sunny day. Lots of nice birding on the way up though (2 twinspot sps, BF Bushshrike, crimsonwings again, etc). The flufftails are in the damp, open valley bottom in the upland grasslands but we suspect they may now have young and are extra elusive much like the Buff-spots.

We also made a quick attempt for S Flufftail late in the afternoon at Mutarazi Falls. Walk back from the car park and down across the heathland to a damp, open valley about 400m away (carefully cross the river). The flufftails are in the rank, damp vegetation but we had no joy (not even heard here).

Far and Wide – the owners have the flufftail in their garden – worth asking if they could help you see it – we’d run out of time by then.

Gosho Park – good birding during a long day’s visit but we later discovered that in a recent intensive survey, only 2 Cinnamon-breasted Tits were found in the entire Park. We missed it completely, and we’d wished we’d had those early morning miombo sessions away from Gosho. Our only dip of a miombo speciality for the trip. The park seems to be open 24/7 but there’s a day charge at the gate and a night charge from 6pm.

Boulder Chats were silent and invisible in the Park (nesting?). A dawn visit to Christon Bank biological gardens nature reserve did the job though and a bird was calling and seen well on our last morning in Zim.

We then failed to find Rosy-throated Longclaw when quickly visiting a couple of the local lakes near Harare. Dorothy from Crake Cottage knows the local birds well and it could be worth trying to get in touch with her for gen prior to your trip.

I hope you can get location details and contacts from the web or from the Birdfinder book. If you struggle, let me know and I may be able to get specific details from our ground agent.

Hope this is of some use,
Andy.
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Old Monday 16th December 2013, 16:06   #15
Jens Thalund
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Hi Andy,
that's a lot of very useful information - I owe you a beer if we ever manage to bump into each other.

I'm planning to stay for one or two nights at Gosho Park, depending on my luck with the Miombo birds, but perhaps even a week wouldn't be enough to stumble across the Cinnamon-breasted Tits?

I also recently found this excellent trip report/blog from early 2013, covering most of my intended sites.

Jens
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Old Wednesday 18th December 2013, 07:16   #16
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Jens, if I were you, I would do some research to ID a reliable site for CB Tit away from Gosho. Josh from Far and Wide would be a good starting point contact to try to do this: http://www.farandwide.co.zw/ ...or Dorothy from Crake Cottage: Crakecottage AT yoafrica.com
I would try both if I were you!

Best of luck and I look forward to hearing how you get on.

The Buckham Birding report certainly is a nice one.

Andy.
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Old Wednesday 18th December 2013, 16:31   #17
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Andy, I tried googling CB Tit, and an image popped up, that was taken at Cecil Kop a few months back, so they are out there, but maybe rather thinly spread.

I've also emailed Crake cottage.

Jens
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Old Monday 23rd December 2013, 21:59   #18
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Hi Jens,

Just back from Zim, last stop in the Vumba. If you're planning on camping I'd recommend the Vumba Botanical Gardens since all three specialities (Swynnerton's Robin, Robert's Prinia/Warbler, and Chirinda Apalis) are there on site, plus much more, and only $7 per person per night plus a $10 entrance fee that covers the whole time you are there. Toilets functional, but no hot showers (wood was wet!)

As for CB Tit, in the miombo downslope near the turnoff for the White Horse Inn...

Plus if your itinerary allows for it, African Pitta is available at Masoka village in the north. Contact Mackenzie who runs the camp there at [email protected] +263779807261

As for transport to Vumba I used a bus out of the Mbare bus station in Harare which was a mistake as it took 7 hours to do Harare-Mutare. I took kombis on the way back and it was much faster.

PM me if you need more info.

Cheers,

Jon
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Old Wednesday 25th December 2013, 12:36   #19
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Hi Jon,

I'll be picking up a rental car in Jo'burg on my arrival, so won't have to deal with public transport this time around. Too bad that I don't have enogh time to go for the Pitta, but it usually seems that there is a very limited window of opportunity (few weeks?) to catch up with them, when they start calling after the first rains.

Good to have one more site for Cinnamon-breasted Tit, as it will improve my odds of catching up with it.

cheers

Jens
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Old Saturday 25th January 2014, 18:51   #20
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Here's our full trip report:

http://www.cloudbirders.com/triprepo...ue_12_2013.pdf
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Old Sunday 23rd February 2014, 18:54   #21
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I've been back home now for a month, so maybe it's about time I did a quick update on my trip.

Driving up to Zimbabwe from Johannesburg, I encountered the only substantial rainfall, lasting maybe half a day, after which I only had a few shovers, so the dambos in Harare where definately not wet, just slightly moist at the most.

Hiring a car in Jo'burg is 4-5 times cheaper than in Zimbabwe, but a cross-border letter from the rental company adds another 1000 ZAR to the cost, as well as 75-80 USD in different fees and taxes at the border. Taking a SA car into Zimbabwe, you need to buy a few items that are mandatory in Zim but not in SA: one small fire extinguisher, two red warning triangles, one reflective west, and two reflectors (plastic strips) at both front (white) and back (red). These can be bought at auto spareparts dealers in the SA border town of Musina for 180 ZAR.

Gasoline was cheap'ish at around 1.4 USD/liter, and widely available, and supermarkets were well stocked and only slightly more expensive than in SA, except some imported goods.

I camped throughout the trip, and found plenty of excellent sites in Zimbabwe, from guesthouses (Harare), lodges (Honde Valley), municipial campsites (Mutare) to reserves/parks (Bvumba, Gosho Park) - usually around 10-15 USD/night.

Woodland birding was quite hard, with breeding apparently over, and birds not very vocal and moving around in mixed flocks.

The following sites were visited -

Lake Mutirikwe (Great Zimbabwe) - White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Narina Trogon.

Cecil Kop NR (Mutare) - Striped and Wood Pipiit, Cinnamon-breasted Tit, Miombo Tit, Miombo Rock Thrush, Miombo Douuble-collared Sunbird, Cabani's Bunting.

Bvumba Botanical Garden/Forest Reserve - African Goshawk, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, Stripe-cheeked Greenbul, Orange Ground Thrush, Swynnerton's Robin, Robert's Warbler, Chirinda Apalis, Olive and Black-fronted Bushshrike, Red-faced Crimsonwing.

Aberfoyle/Wamba Marsh (Honde Valley) - Buff-spotted Flufftail, African Goshawk, Bat Hawk, Eleonora/Sooty Falcon, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, Stripe-cheeked Greenbul, African Broadbill, Red-throated Twinspot, Anchieta's (Marsh) Tchagra.

Katiyo Tea Eastate (Honde valley) - Short-winged Cisticola, Magpie Mannikin, Retz's Helmetshrike

Gosho Park (Marondera) - Whyte's Barbet, Brown-backed Honeyguide, White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Miombo Tit, Miombo Rock Thrush, Tree Pipit, Collared Flycatcher, Wood Pipit, Miombo Double-collared Sunbird, Black-eared Seedeater.

Lake 13 km east of Gosho (Home Park School) - all three Longclaws

Monavale Vlei (Harare) - African Crake. Black Coucal and Streaky-breasted Flufftail were present as well, but not seen/heard by me.

Marlborough Vlei/Sewage Works (Harare) - Lesser Moorhen, Red-chested Flufftail, Black-winged Pratincole. Not much of the wetland is left, as most of the area seems to be taken over by small scale farming, so the abandoned sewage works saw the most action.

Christon Bank (Harare) - Little Sparrowhawk, Whyte's Barbet, Striped Pipit, Orange-winged Pytilia,

Dam west of road, 30km south of Chivu (Felixburg) - Wattled Crane, Melodious Lark, Cuckoo Finch, Quail Finch

In South Africa a couple of sites were visited going back to Johannesburg -

Nylsvlei - a bushfire in September had burned down most of the hides, which made viewing of the wetlands difficult - Harlequin Quail, Northern Black Korhaan, Lesser Moorhen, Southern White-faced Owl, Quail Finch.

Ezemvelo - grassland reserve an hours drive from Jo'burg - Amur Falcon, Lesser Kestrel, Spotted Eagle Owl.

On top of these also numerous other widespread African species as well as a wide range of Palearctic migrants, stunning landscapes and lots of very friendly and welcomming people.

Jens
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Old Tuesday 25th February 2014, 11:42   #22
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Nice one, Jens - sounds great and a pretty successful trip. Can I ask, how did you go with Boulder Chats?
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Old Wednesday 26th February 2014, 15:42   #23
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Hi Andy,
the only thing that approached Boulder Chat was my first encounter with the Cliff Chats at Gosho Park.
Dark bird of the right size, dipping into a crevice between the boulders, and then nothing - at least for a few seconds, and then a juvenile Cliff Chat popped up!
I tried several of the koppjies at Christon Bank, but not even a sound. Thankfully I saw them in Botswana some years back, but still a little irritating.

Jens
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Old Wednesday 18th June 2014, 20:47   #24
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The following gives some extra African Pitta thoughts from a friend of mine:

The Masoka Camp site (http://markalisha.blogspot.com/2013/...-delights.html ) is probably a touch more reliable [than Moz], particularly in the early season (mid-December). The birds are more confiding than they are in the coutadas generally. Access to Masoka is perhaps a touch more difficult given the remoteness of the Zambezi Valley. It’s also Big 5 country. You will bump into elephants. Birders normally fly in to Harare and trek the 300km or so north west (half by tarmac; the rest gravel – the last 30 miles or so the most difficult). Once you’re at Masoka the resident guide usually has 3 or 4 staked-out spots for the pitta.... I heard that a group had excellent views of displaying birds in the camp, a week after our trip & also within spitting distance, so to speak. At that time of the year it’s hot, blistering hot – 43+ deg C in the shade. It’s hard hard work but very rewarding. The coutadas offer a little more variety and that’s possibly why most people venture there in the hope of finding pitta but in the knowledge that other specials are readily accessible eg: Alethe, Akalat etc. The Masoka spot is relatively new; under-birded in my opinion and possibly because of that fact, more reliable but that’s for pitta only. Accommodation at Masoka is rudimentary at best. It’s also self-catering. Notwithstanding, the local village is usually happy to cater, in need. We always take our own supplies. Mphingwe on the other hand is less difficult logistically and has food & beer on tap.

Masoka’s hard-core, bloody hot & dusty and very remote. It’s old Africa but not for newbies. It’s also the best spot for pitta in the sub-region, particularly if your timing’s off and you get here too early. The coutadas on the other hand are easier to bird, more comfortable to travel in and logistically easy. You might want to include the rising conflict between the govn. of Mozambique & Renamo in your deliberations. Regardless of what we’re usually told by tour companies & guides the conflict is real & Gorongosa is central to that conflict.

For what it’s worth if you want to see Africa as it once was, then Mana Pools and Masoka en route, is the way to go.

[Last note: a good gauge of local conflict in Mo' is the owner at Mphingwe, potential visitors might want to ask his opinion re safety etc]
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Old Wednesday 31st August 2016, 10:52   #25
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Just a brief note for those intending on heading to Masoka Village, Zimbabwe this winter for African Pitta:

Jon Gallagher and myself did this trip in December 2013. We camped at Small World Backpackers in Avondale, Harare http://smallworldlodge.com/ (walking distance to Monavale Vlei – though this site may have succumbed to development now). Staff at the backpackers arranged a taxi to take us to a roadside stop ($5) for minibuses to Guruve ($5 pp). From Guruve another minibus took us to Mushumbi Pools ($5 pp), and from here one to Masoka Village, then onto the lodge ($8 pp) a few km's away. The whole route can be done in a day. We did this trip on 'speck' (the only info I had at the time was from the South African Birdfinder) and were pretty surprised when we arrived at the village and told there was a guide called Mackenzie: [email protected] mobile number +26377980726, and a lodge. The next surprise was that Birdquest were there. As they had booked all the rooms we just camped in the kitchen area ($10 pp/night including some meals & coffee). We saw African Pitta briefly the evening we arrived and again the following morning. Mackenzie will help arrange transport from the village back to Mushumbi Pools (vehicle, or by motorbike). He can also make travel arrangements from Harare if you need it.
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