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Bird Guides in Madagascar (1 Viewer)

Ficedula

velico ergo sum
We are in the early stages of organising a trip to Madagascar and will need to make a decision about hiring a professional guide to accompany us. From the reports I have read I understand that in National Parks it is compulsory to hire local park guides, and it seems that local guides are readily found at other birding sites as well. If so then I wonder what advantage there might be to hiring an additional guide from Tana to stay with us for the whole trip?

I would be very grateful for the thoughts of anyone who has birded in Madagascar in the last decade on this subject. Particularly anyone who did not have a bird guide with them the whole time and believe they missed some birds that they would otherwise have seen. Where there any times when you wanted to hire a local guide and could not find one?

If you did have a bird guide with you for the whole trip, how often was he your only guide and what did he find that you think you would not have found by yourselves?
 
Hi

I can only relay my experience on the southern sites along the RN7, and the Andasibe area from just a brief two week trip in Dec 2010. We didn’t use a bird guide, but hired a driver who knew the sites we visited and could get contact with the relevant national park local guides on arrival – he seemed to know most of them personally in any event (details in the thread below this one).

I dont think we particularly missed much we tried for as a result of this approach, but we didnt do all the spots along this route for endemics, the most frustrating aspect for me was missing an opportunity to go to the sites south of Tulear on account of having to get an internal flight a day early.

To add some more detail from my trip:

For the Parks visited we only enquired about guides upon arrival, but it was outside (just) the main birding season. This was very useful, the parks were quiet and guides were all available, and luckily rains had not prevented access (to Mantadia). You can read the various trip reports and come up with names, here are some thoughts:

For the Andasibe area Patrice is an excellent and hardworking guide, knows his area extremely well, is a superb birder/naturalist and did not overcharge/add any extras on – even after working long days. It is very easy to see why he is number 1 choice, and he was in my opinion the best local guide we used in Madagascar. He also mentioned to me that he travels to the north on occasion with tour groups, private individuals/professionals, and government surveying etc, so knows northern sites (Pochard, Owl, Eagle) too – not sure about Masoala. He also gave local sites along the river crossings for the Pratincole, but we dipped (didnt give any time/effort really though).

In Ranomafana there are a number of names cropping up in the trip reports and we spoke with a couple during our visit. Fidi is the traditional local guide for visiting birders for a long time, and there are good and not so good comments from his guiding out there. We did employ him and he brought along his wife, Sabine, who has a good knowledge of the wider wildlife (not so much birds). Some of the younger guides mentioned in trip reports seemed to do well too, so there are options here. Fidi was more expensive than Patrice, and more expensive than the other guides in Ranomafana.

We skipped Isalo NP because of the expense compared to Hotels on the main road, and time constraints, but there are only a couple of sp. here that are prime reasons for visit (Harrier, Thrush).

In the decidous forests of Zombitse we used two guides who were just hanging around the car park area by a hut. Didn’t particularly ask for two, it just sort of fell that way as these things can do. We arrived afternoon for walk and then picked them up from the village west of the forest dawn the next morning as well. Unfortunately I never recorded their names, I guess they are an everyday fixture, but they again had good knowledge of the local specialities, eg Coua’s including Giant, Greenbul, and regular owl roost etc.

In Ifaty, Freddy was coming out top on the recent trip reports, he is I believe, part of the Mossa clan. We arrived in town and asked our driver to let him know we were around. We hired him for the day (although he was reluctant to do the afternoon and eventually we let him go so long as we could potter around the nature reserve on our own). Again his guiding involved both him and a relative (Mossa’s brother I think) working the small nature reserve for all the usual specialities – they certainly know how to find them. We also birded parts of the Spiny Forest and coast along the coast road – relatively good for mopping up the coastal species not usually seen in the nature reserve.



Considering what species may be trickier to find outside the parks present along this route, this could include the Harrier, swamp sp such as Swamp Warbler, Snipe and Grey Emutail, the coral rag specialities south Tulear, and general Spiny Forest & coastal species seen by groups outside the Ifaty nature reserve.

Many trips seem to see the snipe close to Ranomafana and I asked Fidi about this and the Emutail. We went to see the Emutail (and Swamp Warbler), but didn’t make time for the snipe – Fidi mentioned that he knew the local sites though.

On this route, the Harrier and the Coral Rag and other desert/Spiny forest & coast specialities around Tulear would therefore be your principal reasons for hiring a bird guide to be with you 24/7. I would suggest that another possibility is you could probably hire Freddy if you were concerned about the Coral Rag/Spiny Forest species/sites, eg he gave us local gen on recent plover sightings. The Harrier is probably a bit hit and miss as it has declined so much, and a guide may be of help with this sort of species, but they may not necessarily be 100% successful (if you know what I mean). The Cuckoo-hawk may also fall in this tricky, luck required, category.

The African Bird Club report mentioned in the other thread is of use for detailed site information. As a base any minor changes from recent trip reports can be factored in.

I cannot particularly help with other parts of the country. I guess an unknown is probably the Pochard area in the north as its not national park. But see later comments here: http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=210527

At the end of the day any additional bird guide knowledge would undoubtedly be of help to root out the certain specialities; but the tricky ones in the rainforest, western decidous forests national parks & spiny forest (and the principal ones at that – Ground Rollers, Couas, Asitys, Mesites, Vangas Nightjars, Kingfisher etc) are mostly covered by local park guiding options that know the stakeouts/sites.

Hopefully that contains some useful bits for you,
 
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Gareth, thank you very much for taking the time to answer my query so fully, much to think about there.

cheers

Dave
 
I travelled with Dave for just over 3 weeks last autumn in a team of 4 visiting all the traditional sites including Masoala but excluding Berenty & Betsiboka. Dave then went on to Betsiboka, plus the pochard site (outrageously seeing the duck, owl and eagle all in a single afternoon) and on to the Sakalava Rail site.

For our joint 3-week leg, we opted to hire a driver plus English-speaking, non-birding guide through Madagascar New Destination. Calvin was our guide and after being slightly shocked by our full-on approach, he did get into the swing of things. A few times he really proved his worth – dealing with lost bags, itinerary changes on the hoof, that kind of thing. Even some simple things would have been harder for us as we had no significant French between us.

I think we nailed it for efficiently seeing as many endemics as possible in as little time as possible but without going with a very expensive high end tour group (I think!). DIY would undoubtedly have been a lot cheaper.

Now that Calvin has done the circuit once, he’d be a good choice for future trips. He’s not a perfect fix it man, but he’s OK. We missed one targeted endemic – sandgrouse, and I’m reliably informed that the birds we tried for twice near Tulear were shot just before our arrival. Dave did see sandgrouse later thus completing an awesome haul over his 5 weeks.

MND did a fine job all round at reasonable cost in the extensive planning stages and while we were in country. We approached 3 local ground agents for quotes and they scored best in a combination of good email response and cost. Their knowledge of the birds and sites was very good, e.g. they arranged a last minute day trip for Slender-billed Flufftail north from Tana, which went like clockwork. Calvin’s perseverance (and a phone call back to base) also helped secure the snipe for us, which was increasingly looking like a very annoying dip after many fruitless tramps through marshes in or close to Ranomafana. We requested modest accommodation to keep costs down and what they booked for us was spot on. In a couple of places you have no choice and are forced (!) to accept luxury however.

We used local guides everywhere being told they were compulsory in most NPs and that you stand to miss plenty of good birds in limited time if you do not have them. All were arranged by MND in advance and all were good. One or two were superb but poor old Fiddy at Ranomafana is not so healthy these days. He tried hard and we saw all the birds but he didn’t enjoy it much and it was a bit touch and go.

Dave made his 10-day extension arrangements through the Peregrine Fund and was extremely pleased with the result.

A few additional thoughts:

We now know that Masoala could be visited without help from a true birding ground agent – more details here: http://nomadbirder.com/2013/01/15/madagascar-reunion-and-mauritius-nov-dec-2012/

You would have to sort the internal flights of course but presumably Olivier could help there and deal with any schedule changes...? Our long-hauls were changed by Air France twice so just having to sort out the ensuing itinerary changes with MND and no-one else was convenient, thinking about it.

Littoral Rock-thrush can be seen in a long half-day excursion by crossing the estuary/river mouth at St Augustin and searching the areas known by Calvin and, in our case, ace local guide Mossa (actually, the boatmen helped too). If you do this, hire the biggest boat you possibly can – it was pretty hairy on the water. We opted to leave out Nosy Ve and Anakao, which must be great fun but are time consuming and almost endemic-free.

We saw one harrier in the traditional area north of Isalo but also several on the long drive between Tana and Mahajanga. Lots of birders fly this latter route but our itinerary meant we had to drive it. We and others variously saw harriers on the stretches of sweeping and undulating grasslands passed on the first half of the journey. Think Salisbury Plain but hotter.

The internal flights are notorious for being delayed and regularly cancelled. Therefore visiting Masoala is often seen as being too risky for a short or shortish trip. It is worth bearing in mind though that Bernier's Teal (& the ibis), Littoral Rock-thrush (as above) and (highly dipable) Slender-billed Flufftail all offer good options for ditching a planned day if necessary or quickly plugging a spare day should one become available - hence a carefully written itinerary could cater for an aborted Masoala visit or a delayed return. Your potential gain of course would be Helmet and Bernier's Vangas if you went with this risky approach! A tough call but a nice dilemma to face I guess.

In my opinion, it would be well worth planning to visit Masoala for as little as 2 nights but not really less than that. Three or 4 would be ideal.

Thanks to Gareth and a few others for providing very helpful info before our trip.

Good luck if you get to bird anywhere on Madagascar,
Andy.
 
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What are you after: North/South/both and a clean-up or just some of the families?

in short: you do not really one. But you will have more planning to do per site.
 
I travelled with Dave for just over 3 weeks last autumn in a team of 4 visiting all the traditional sites including Masoala but excluding Berenty & Betsiboka.

Andy.

Hi Andy,

Some interesting info there, sounds like you, Dave & co had a great trip. You did well to do all the southern sites, and Mahajanga, and Masoala in three weeks! Good to hear that the Harriers seem fairly frequent on that long drive up north.


Fiddi was ok but I suppose getting on a bit when we used his services as well, he was trying to get one of his sons to get into it, but he didnt have the bird knowledge Fiddi had. Sabine, his wife, also came out with us and she was quite good with the general wildlife, but again not so much with the birds.

Cheers,
 
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Hi Gareth - yes, it went well - but I did have to sacrifice Betsiboka although the irony is that I actually had time to do it in the end because the Ampijaroa specials all behaved themselves. We had the boat booked for the next day (i.e. after 2 of us were due to leave for home) and changing it was just a bit too much hassle. If all 4 of us were, erm, in the same boat, we'd have done it for sure.

I guess Nosy Ve and Anakao are traditional sites too but Litt’ R-thrush was available in a half day so we all set them to one side thus clawing back another day or so.

I should have said earlier, another risk up at Masoala is that it's a very wet place of course. If anyone went for just 2 nights, the whole thing could be washed out. A risk worth taking? Maybe and personal choice at the end of the day. We had good weather up there after a wet first afternoon as it happened.

All the very best,
Andy.
 
I'm gonna post just one more thing on this. We were aware of a new site for Helmet Vanga while we were planning. It's not too far from Perinet and you have to hike in and perhaps camp. Others have been recently and scored but we opted to visit Masoala instead with its great reputation (and Bernier's Vanga) after discussing with MND. If this new site proves reliable however, then it would be a fantastic option for short trips. There's info on the web in at least one recent trip report...

Andy.
 
No need to hire a guide out of the park

I agree with you. Actually, I am planning to go to Madagascar with a local Agency SOBEHA MADAGASCAR. They just confirm that there is no need to hire a guide out of the park. In addition, few national guide only know about bird and spot. So, I will go with the driver to Andasibe, before heading to the south Ranomafana and around Tulear. Hope it will be great and rewarding.

Just a specification : if there is no driver speaking english available, they send a guide to help with a small additional price for his needs only! That's sound cool!
 
Hello Gareth,
Do you have contact information for the guide Patrice, that you mentioned?
Thanks,
Mary

Hi Mary,

I took down a phone number from Patrice: 0(0261) 330241390. He wasnt on emails when I visited. Dont know whether his accommodation is now up and running, attached a pic of the 'work in progress', overlooking Andasibe.

If the phone doesnt work try emailing Eugine as he knows him well - details in trip report.

Cheers
 

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Madagascar Birding trip

Here is my trip report for Madagascar. Hope that it helps. Sorry if it has taken a very long time.
It was very rewarding and Sobeha Madagascar is a reliable local tour guide. Although they are not expert guides, they can help with your bird list. The price depends to the duration and the planning. You can choose the service to be included into the package. The park was paid directly at the entrance and you negotiate directly to the guide of the park.
The called bird guide is always more expensive than a generalist. You can find them at the park entrance or ask your national guide to contact one. For example, I paid 160 000 Ariary (about 50 euro) per day in Andasibe and 120 000Ariary (about 40 euro) in Ranomafana. They had recording and they know the nearby birding sites. The price changes according to your length of stay and to what you are looking for: you give them the list of the birds and they tell you the price. You can negotiate, it is a culture for Malagasy people.
Outside of the park, you must tell your driver/national guide the bird’s name and the place where it can be found and he will do all the necessary.
The truth is that there is no national expert birding guide in Madagascar. Most of national guide are generalist. So does Fredel, the owner of SOBEHA MADAGASCAR. When he is not available, he will mandate another reliable guide.

Matt W.



We are in the early stages of organising a trip to Madagascar and will need to make a decision about hiring a professional guide to accompany us. From the reports I have read I understand that in National Parks it is compulsory to hire local park guides, and it seems that local guides are readily found at other birding sites as well. If so then I wonder what advantage there might be to hiring an additional guide from Tana to stay with us for the whole trip?

I would be very grateful for the thoughts of anyone who has birded in Madagascar in the last decade on this subject. Particularly anyone who did not have a bird guide with them the whole time and believe they missed some birds that they would otherwise have seen. Where there any times when you wanted to hire a local guide and could not find one?

If you did have a bird guide with you for the whole trip, how often was he your only guide and what did he find that you think you would not have found by yourselves?
 
Would taking along extra books help?

I wonder whether there are enough field guide books available in the country. Would it help if every visitor took along a spare copy to give away when there?
Often, such books are either not easily available locally. Or else they cost much more than we pay for them. Such an extra book would not add much to the total cost of such a trip for us.
 
The truth is that there is no national expert birding guide in Madagascar. Most of national guide are generalist.


o yes there is. His name is Réné de Roland Lily Arison.
Technically, he is employed and can only guide in his spare time, but we hired him for 2 weeks during our trip. He opens doors and can guide you to certain sites that are normally hard to reach (Bemenavika, cheap boats for Betsiboka delta) or seldomly visited by for birders (lake Mandrozo).
 
Just a heads up that Madagascar New Destination referenced above are now:

Madagascar Wildlife Tour Agency
[email protected]

I returned from Madagascar a week ago and use Tiana to locally organize our tour. I believe that Tiana set up Madagascar Wildlife Tour Agency in response to my initial query and hence we were the first to use this agency. Tiana can no longer acts as a guide due to glaucoma but his arrangement of our tour was really good. Our tour guide (Jean) was very experienced and had previously been involved with Birdquest tours and BBC documentaries. In addition, the local guides were among the best available. I can heartily recommend his agency - much cheaper having a self-organized tour using local agent than going on an organized tour.

Cheers

John
 
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