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The nearly-perfect binos you've had- what would you change to make them 'perfect'? (1 Viewer)

S

Sancho

Well-known member
Europe
I've given up on the 20-year search for perfection, don't buy binos anymore and have bought and sold far too many. What if you could change just one thing to make a near-perfect bino actually 'perfect', for you?
Here is my list, with the one 'change' I'd have liked:

Nikon EDG 8x42: slightly wider FOV
Swarovski Habicht 8x30: better baffling to suppress awful stray-light
Swarovski SV 8x32: Ditto
Canon IS 10x42: Less weight, and design to fit actual human hands
Swarovski SV 8.5x42: wider FOV
Leica Ultravid UVHD 8x32: Wider FOV
Nikon SE 8x32&10x42: Waterproofing
Nikon EII 8x30&10x35: Ditto
Zeiss Victory TFL 8x32: Slightly different body shape; can't quite explain this one, but my thumb seemed to disappear up inside the underside and I found them a bit hard to hold comfortably.

I realise I am 'picky' to the point of neurosis. Or at least was. Also that there are design considerations of all sorts that involve trade-offs that make ultra-perfection impossible. all of the above would have been more than sufficient for my needs as regards the actual quality of the image (sharpness, rssolution, contrast, colour etc.), even though each had its own 'flavour'. I think the Nikon EDG 8x42_was the closest to 'perfect' for me, but anyway due to other considerations and pressures my bino-buying days are over. It's been fun and educational, though, although I never understood the sciency-bits and just liked to try binos as an 'end-user'.
Any other 'if-only-they-could' observations out there?
 
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Don't give up the quest for perfection so easily Sancho! :-O

Honestly, I think the Nikon MHG is just about the perfect package - it just needs to be built to a higher resolution spec - it's obviously been knobbled slightly so as not to tread on the EDG's toes.
It needs:-
* To be sharper - designed and built to a much higher resolution spec.
* Better CA and field edge sharpness control - this would involve multiple FL elements and appropriately finished aspherics.
* Brighter and more neutral - again, high spec HT glass required and the best retuned nano AR and Dielectric coatings to suit.
* Better glare control - to rule the Leica Noctivid.
* Carbotanium Fibre Reinforced Polycarbonate chassis for even more lightness <~ 600grams (21 oz) should be possible.
* Optional Bling - lightweight dual density armouring covered in lightweight perforated kangaroo belly skin leather (tan, black, or bone coloured), and a Titanium Nitride coated knurled lightweight Magnesium Metal Matrix focus wheel - just because ! |:p|


I suppose I could 'hot rod' any number of bins along the same lines, but these MHG's fit the hands as good as the :king: Zen-Ray ED3 and the Swarovski 10×50 SV ....... it's just that they give you ×42mm light gathering in a virtually ×32mm package :D

With such a set of bins I could pretty much give up BF and just go and look at stuff ........... well nearly 8-P




Chosun :gh:
 
Focusing on positives the perfect bin (to me) would be a hybrid of
Zeiss SF, Swaro SV and Leica Noctivid and consist of:
1) Ergonomics, focuser, weight, FOV and price of the Zeiss.
2) Sharpness, contrast, color balance, diopter adjustment and warranty/service of the Swaro.
3) Eye relief, eye cups, glare/flare resistance, looks/color/design and size of the Leica.
 
My current 7x42 Ultravid plus could be lighter and a little less bulky; 7x35/36 package would be ideal (smaller and lighter). However, this could reduce eye relief which could pose a problem for me.

Even if the 42 could be like 22-23 ounces it would be near perfect for me. I'm pretty well satisfied
with just about everything else about it. This month marks 3 years with it and I still can't find any real flaws or anything to complain about besides weight mainly.
 
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Sancho,

I feel the same way about the EDG, it is my favorite 8X42, and I have other premium 8X42s. If it could have one attribute improved, it would be brightness. I still use the FLs quite a bit and for me no need to upgrade.

Regarding the MHG, I have the 8X42, it is a nice light glass, very good ergonomically, a wide FOV, a fun grab and go glass. However, the optics I feel could be improved.

Which glass do you still have and use?

Andy W.
 
if not stolen goods.....actually purchased...:smoke:




come on its a joke....:-O
 
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dries1 said:
Sancho,

I feel the same way about the EDG, it is my favorite 8X42, and I have other premium 8X42s. If it could have one attribute improved, it would be brightness. I still use the FLs quite a bit and for me no need to upgrade.

Regarding the MHG, I have the 8X42, it is a nice light glass, very good ergonomically, a wide FOV, a fun grab and go glass. However, the optics I feel could be improved.

Which glass do you still have and use?

Andy W.
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy. I use a MHG 10x42, and for cycling a Swaro 8x20B.
 
For me the Nikon 8x32 SE porro bins are as near perfect as you could reasonably expect BUT they are not waterproof and the rubber eyecups are not up to modern standards.
 
Some of my current and former binos:
8x32 Swarovision - baffling or something to control glare
8x32 Victory T*FL - less astigmatism
8.5x42 Swarovision - Faster or variable speed focuses
8x42 SLC-HD - similar to below, hard to fault, maybe less distortion or a faster focus
7x42 Victory T*FL - this is about as good of a birding binocular as I've ever used, but maybe a wider sweet spot?
8x32 Meostar HD - More eye relief
8.5x44 Kowa Genesis - Wider Field of View
8x42 Leupold Golden Ring HD - Wider Field of View
8x42 Vortex Razor HD - Wider Field of View

Justin
 
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Sancho said:
I've given up on the 20-year search for perfection, don't buy binos anymore and have bought and sold far too many. What if you could change just one thing to make a near-perfect bino actually 'perfect', for you?
Here is my list, with the one 'change' I'd have liked:
Click to expand...

Sancho,

Much the same here... my list:

Swaro SV 8x32: 1) glare control, 2) focuser feel when adjusting 3) field pro strap to binocular connection

Swaro CL 8x30 (latest model): 1) CA control, 2) diopter adjustment 3) field pro strap to binocular connection

Nikon EDG 7x42: 1) wider FOV, 2) 42mm performance in 32mm ergonomics

Nikon EII 8x30: 1) roof prism ergonomics

Nikon SE 8x32: 1) roof prism ergonomics

Maven B2 8x30: 1) wider sweet spot, 2) more glare control, 3) less fidgeting with eye placement

Zeiss 8x32 FL: 1) more neutral color rendition ie a little less cool, 2) ergonomic adjustments (just didn't work well up to my face and adjusting focus with a ball cap on)

Well, I'll stop there but it appears Nikon was the closest for me as well.

CG
 
Nikon SE

John Cantelo said:
For me the Nikon 8x32 SE porro bins are as near perfect as you could reasonably expect BUT they are not waterproof and the rubber eyecups are not up to modern standards.
Click to expand...

Yes I forgot to mention those, all three models are likely the last premium porros made save the habichts. - (excellent glass).

Andy W.
 
Kowa Genesis 8x33 would be pretty close to perfect if they could find a way to shave 50 or 100 grams and increase the size of the sweet spot a bit.
 
Like cycleguy, I'd like an alpha 7x bin in a wide 32mm. Don't suppose though that this will ever happen!
 
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From what I understand there are no perfect binos. Obviously the expensive one's that are near I'd choose to be cheaper. I guess I'll play along with the binos I own..

Swaro EL SV8.5x42 - less rolling ball effect, price
Swaro EL SV10x42 - not much wrong, price
Swaro CL 8x25 - fov (but then they likely wouldn't be so small), slightly more hinge tension
Leica UVHD 7x42 - not much, likely my favorite full size, price
Leica UVHD 8x32 - eye relief, price
Zeiss Terra 8x32 - brightness, sweet spot
Vortex Razor HD 8x42 (mic) - bigger sweet spot, less glare, more contrast, jap made
Vortex Crossfire 8x42 - so much, only grace is they are useable at $100.
Redfield Rebel 10x42 - see crossfire.

So the thing is if they were able to achieve some of my wishes it would change other factors. It's fun to think about though. Enjoy what you got.
 
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Compromise is inevitable: size/weight vs exit pupil vs magnification vs FOV etc. I doubt that any final improvement I can think of to a great bino was mere oversight, and could actually be made without astronomical cost, or sacrificing something else. I suppose that means I've really given up the quest for perfection. :)
 
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