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Porro or Roof ? Your choice. (1 Viewer)

Unless you want to spend $2500, Porro is the way to go for the brightest, sharpest image. The designers have to jump through hoops with the roof design, the Porro has a huge inherent advantage in raw optical quality. $2500 roof = polished turd, $600 Porro = diamond in the rough waiting to be further refined :eat:
 
When I first read about the Perger porros, I thought that might be the solution to this dilemma, but it remains to be seen how much 3-D effect the "banana design" gives, certainly not as much as the Porro I design, but perhaps noticeably better than a roof, and it does allow the bin to be completely sealed for internal focusing.

Someone suggested that the Perger design could not handle wide fields of view, but I think someone else challenged that. So there are still questions to be answered about this new design and whether or not it represents a good compromise btwn porros and roofs. Maybe Arthur can have his cake and eat it too.

<B>

I think i won't have the chance to look through the Leitz Camera banana, i don't think that a lot of frenchies will need this toy. I only know a few hunters, one uses a Zeiss FL and the other one an Habicht, the 7x40. It seems they don't need a range binoc, and as their pairs are newish, they won't buy a new alpha that soon i guess.
Hope you'll describe the Leica if you ever try it.
 
I think i won't have the chance to look through the Leitz Camera banana, i don't think that a lot of frenchies will need this toy. I only know a few hunters, one uses a Zeiss FL and the other one an Habicht, the 7x40. It seems they don't need a range binoc, and as their pairs are newish, they won't buy a new alpha that soon i guess.
Hope you'll describe the Leica if you ever try it.

I'll have it sunday for testing, so I'll let you know.
Jan
 
Porro or Roof: Roof (8x30)
Brief description why: Advantages outweigh disadvantages. I think these might have been mentioned previously.
 
All things being equal, optics, build, weather protection, what would your preference be?
And a brief description why?

But all things are not equal between the roof and porro designs. If you assume all facets are equal then this thread serves no purpose. Each has different benefits and shortcomings. To me the porro desgn benefits including high performance at a reasonable price, wider field, easy to hold porro design and enhanced 3d view outweigh the shortcomings and deliver better performance than comparably priced roof bins.
 
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I have this little feeling Simon knows full well that porros and roofs are not "all else equal". What I think he meant was usage conditions and reasonably comparable optical quality. I assumed his question is really which side of the "all else is not equal" elements of roof vs porro do you like and why.
 
I have this little feeling Simon knows full well that porros and roofs are not "all else equal". What I think he meant was usage conditions and reasonably comparable optical quality. I assumed his question is really which side of the "all else is not equal" elements of roof vs porro do you like and why.

If "all things being equal" should be taken to mean "all things are not necessarily equal" then what is the purpose of the phrase?
 
Yes sorry not very clear.
Given that they have identical optical performance, other than the normal traits of a better 3d view from a Porro but both waterproof which would rather have or use.
 
Yes sorry not very clear.
Given that they have identical optical performance, other than the normal traits of a better 3d view from a Porro but both waterproof which would rather have or use.

Given the above parameters the porro would probably be one third the price in which case I`d go for the cheaper option.
 
I seldom use Porros for birding anymore because I often bird at close range in woodland settings. In that situation I dislike the effects of the wide objective spacing. The "enhanced" stereopsis at mid distances from widely spaced objectives doesn't look more natural to me; it just looks like more stereopsis. I find the effect neutral by itself, but it comes with the disadvantage of excessive parallax at close distances. I begin to notice a problem at about 25', where an object centered in one barrel of an 8x Porro (with objective spacing twice the eye's IPD) is about 7º of apparent field off-axis in the other barrel. At 12' the difference between the two sides is around 15º of apparent field. Some Porros with good off-axis performance handle the displacement better than others, but all suffer at close range from poorer field overlap and increased exit pupil vignetting compared to binoculars with objectives placed in-line with the eyes.

For long distance uses, like astronomy, I don't have any preference as to prism type.
 
Adding to Henry's point, porros are not good for insects such as butterflies and dragonflies, due to the wide spacing of the objectives. I had forgotten that, and I am sure many birders and wildlife watching users watch insects.
 
Dear all,
The Asahi Pentax Papilio porro's are especially designed for close focus observations of butterflies etc. Therefore the objective tubes are placed close towards each other like the non-Zeiss porro's around 1894-1910 (Zeiss had a patent for making porro's with enlarged distance between the objectives).
The Pentax Papilio construction is used fequently in small porro's of other brands as well.
Gijs
 
Dear all,
The Asahi Pentax Papilio porro's are especially designed for close focus observations of butterflies etc. Therefore the objective tubes are placed close towards each other like the non-Zeiss porro's around 1894-1910 (Zeiss had a patent for making porro's with enlarged distance between the objectives).
The Pentax Papilio construction is used fequently in small porro's of other brands as well.
Gijs

Yes, surely, inverse porros like the Papilio are better than roofs for close-range viewing.
 
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Right, it's not the prism type but the objective spacing. For that reason the reduced offset of the Perger Porro prism looks interesting to me.
 
As I recall the Papilio objectives TILT towards each other as you close focus to perhaps 20 inches.
A fine binocular in two magnifications, maybe 6.5x and 8.5x.
So this does not rely on using non central parts of the field, but even with a non tilting porro you could offset both sides by 7.5 degrees rather than one side 15 degrees, although aberrations are not symmetrical this would probably give better views.
 
Binastro,

I think most of us instinctively center a close object of interest so that it's off-axis in both fields, but once the offset is large, say a total of 20º or more for a conventional Porro inside 10', then a really good image from both sides is not possible.

Henry
 
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