27 July. Schools, Golf, Boulders and Yungaburra.
Another excellent day, only transferring about 100 km from Julaten to Yungaburra in the Atherton Highlands, but top notch from start to finish.
Academia to start the day, visits to a couple of primary schools my priority for the day. Wandering around school grounds with binoculars in hand as kids mill into school might seem a good way to get in trouble, but not so at these schools - indeed, at one there is even a sign on the gate declaring 'birdwatchers welcome'. And the reason, Great Bowerbirds - a splendid bird that seems to have taken a liking to school grounds to build the bowers! First stop was Julatten Primary School, a bunch of mums dropping their little darlings off. No need to actually enter the school here, as the Great Bowerbirds tend to hang out near a gazebo directly opposite - and that is exactly where I got my first glimpse, a chunky grey bird flying up and flitting over to the school where it perched a while on their fence. Unfortunately it then vanished and didn't reappear.
No problem, a mere 10 km to the south is Mt Molloy Primary School ...and this is where the ' birdwatchers welcome' sign is hung upon the gate. So in I went, classes underway, a mere smile from the only person I saw. Walked round to the allotted spot - the base of a fence near an outbuilding. And there before me, a bower decorated with assorted blue and white paraphernalia, snail shells, bits of plastic, school chalk, the works. And then in popped the Great Bowerbird, a spot of tidying up before disappearing into the bower's tunnel. Some moments later, out the other end he appeared, a bit more housecleaning and off he went. And so the process went on, the bird returning every few minutes to spruce up the bower yet more. Splendid stuff. Backdrop birds included White-cheeked Honeyeater, Straw-necked Ibis and Masked Plover.
Next stop, a short stop again at Lake Mitchell - not the lake itself, but an arid gulley a shot distance away. A walk of a few hundred metres and there I found the target, one White-browed Robin, a localised endemic to these parts and a nice one at that. Also here, Spotted Pardalote, five Noisy Friarbirds, several Blue-faced Honeyeaters, a Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike and a few Double-barred Finches.
It was now midday and time to move further south. Having been in Australia for a week now, albeit mostly in fairly humid habitats with luxuriant vegetation, I was acutely aware that I was still 'kangaroo-less' - I had seen quite a few Agile Wallabies, as well as the tiny Red-legged Pademelons, but I wanted a 'proper' kangaroo, i.e. one of the big beasties with kangaroo in the name! For these, arid land habitats tend to be better, or for the lazy, the pleasant greens of a golf course in otherwise arid area! And so it was, my next destination - the rather ungreen greens of Mareeba Golf Course. Famed for its resident mob of Eastern Grey Kangaroos, it took all of two minutes to spot them - a great bunch of them chilling out on the manicured grass, ambling golfers strolling past, barely a glance exchanged between the golfers and roos. Got up close and personal with a herd of about 40, sitting myself down on the grass as several lolloped across, others stretching out and taking a siesta. Began to feel I was really in Australia! Little did I know, due to a lack of homework, that I would subsequently see hundreds of Eastern Grey Kangaroos in the later parts of the trip.
Mareeba Wetlands, a classic birding locality in this neck of the woods, seems to have closed for an indefinite period of time, so decided I would add another mammal excursion at this point - venturing a dozen of so kilometres to Granite Rock Nature Park, the single best locality to see the highly range-restricted Mareeba Rock Wallaby. - this species literally occurs in a few isolated outcrops in the Mareeba area.
Vast granite boulders, squawking Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, a dozen or so tourists all gawking at ...Mareeba Rock Wallabies! Well that was easy, a half dozen were ambling around on the rocks not five minutes from the car park. Slightly less expected, also found a flock of eleven Squatter Pigeons here, feeding amongst farmyard geese and ducks in the adjacent campsite. Lay flat in my stomach to try and get a few photos, immediately got ambushed by the geese hoping for hand outs. And so, having covered a grand total of little more than 60 km in more than half the day, it was time to finish the transit, motoring the final 40 km to the Atherton Tablelands and a couple of superb localities there, hopefully too a Platypus or two by day's end.
Just south of Atherton, first treat was Hasties Swamp - a moderately slim slither of water, but absolutely crammed with birds! Vying for attention, at least 800 Plumed Whistling Ducks, 250 Magpie Geese and an impressive 80 or so Australian Swamphens, many of these strolling along the road. Plenty more birds among them too, ducks including Grey Teals, Freckled Ducks and Hardheads, while others included White-headed Stilt and a Pale-vented Bush-hen. Also had my first Sarus Cranes of the trip here, 18 flying over, plus a Brown Falcon, a flock of mixed Welcome Swallows and Tree Swallows and a variety of passserines, Eastern Yellow Robins particularly common. Could easily have stayed till dusk here, hopes of stuff coming into roost, but I still had a certain aquatic mammal bugging me ...and just a handful of kilometres away was the small town of Yungaburra, a locality where it is said 'you can't miss Platypus'. Problem one was finding accommodation, my visit coinciding with a traditional market, but that sorted headed straight for Peterson's Creek, the ultimate in des res for discerning Platypuses!
A midget of a stream in reality, but with a nice walking path all the way along, we got ourselves in position at about 4.30 pm., the late afternoon sun still lighting the water nicely. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike in the trees, Pacific Black Duck floating down the stream. And then we waited.
A bit of déjà vu setting in, I had peered expectantly at waters on six dawns and dusks in preceding days, and I was quite aware I had no further Platypus localities on my planned route. A half hour went by, the sun dipped a little. I took a stroll further along the stream. Then a sudden gasp, a Platypus paddling along on a broad meander! Oh jeepers, took a quick look, then sprinted back to my original point to collect my fellow Platypus spotter, aka Cassowary Gripper (for which I still had not totally got over). Got back to the meander ...and no Platypus! But worry not, suddenly it resurfaced and then proceeded to paddle right past us, a tiny little thing, far smaller than I had been expecting. Fantastic views, and then we found another, and another! Four in all that evening, all totally unaware/unconcerned by our presence, each paddling past on several occasions, sometimes as close as three or four metres.