Well, an eventful week and a pretty successful one.
We put Dad to rest in the place he wanted to be, wild, peaceful and spectacular. my sprained ankle held up on the trek, the weather closed in on the way back.
Next day it was away to Scotland in the new Rover, low mileage, all the bells and whistles - driving once again a pleasure rather than every trip a worried marathon rather like bringing a Lancaster back from Germany on two engines one of which was running hot.
We stopped for a cup of tea at the Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum, rather a long drawn out cuppa as it was an hour before the truly stonking male Scarlet Rosefinch popped out right in front of us for a photo-shoot. Then it was on again through sunshine and showers, down through Glencoe, over the Corran Ferry and over the moors to Lochaline for the ferry to Mull. We saw our first Hooded Crows of the trip on the last leg, then on the boat, across the Sound to Fishnish and off again to Loch na Keal.
Unfortunately I have to report that so far as I can tell the Bearded Seal has definitely gone. We couldn't find any reports of it more recent than two weeks earlier, though the WDCT had helpfully signposted the length of coast where it had mostly been hauling out. We did get terrific views of a pair of adult White-tailed Eagles from the site, one sat in a tree yelping from time to time (and being dive-bombed by a Buzzard) while the other flew around occasionally.
Eventually the Buzzard in turn was beaten up by a Sparrowhawk and serve him right. A little group of Twite flew buzzing down to the seashore and fed for a while but were out of photo-range.
We tried a seal haul-out on the far side of the loch which had about ten Grey Seals of various sizes and both sexes, plus a couple of Commons. There had been suggestions the Beardie was hanging out with them, but still no sign.
By about 2000 the weather was closing in again and we were discouraged. Marion in particular was very tired and binding about where we were going to sleep etc. Pub time. We drove round to Craignure and went into the inn. I asked about rooms and when it turned out they had a double I took it sight unseen, after all I didn't have anything else up my sleeve and camping was looking unattractive (we had got wet enough in Cumbria).
After a pint and some dinner - local mussels for me, I am the only member of the family who can eat them safely and I like to exercise my prerogative occasionally - we took our bags up to the room. Its superiority was evident the moment I looked out of the window and saw a dog Otter in the bay. Another beer and things looked fine.
In the morning we enjoyed a big breakfast and then went in search of Otters. Down beyond the end of the Mull railway we found last night's big dog Otter fishing and bringing his catches ashore on a nice comfy bed of bladder wrack. With a bit of rushing from cover to cover during his dives I got down to twenty yards and finally got some decent pix of an Otter out of the water when he brought his next bit of brekky onto the seaweed covered rocks.
We left him fishing and returned to Loch na Keal where there was again no sign of the Bearded Seal. The haul-out on the South side of the loch had the same individuals as the previous evening though a few extra Commons were in evidence.
By late morning we had seen enough of these particular animals and decided to move over to Ardnamurchan, not least because the forecast had suggested tonight would be the best night for weather and I wanted to get a night drive in. So it was back across the ferry and over the moors to fill up and do a little shopping at Strontian. You think fuel is bad where you are, unleaded was £1.30 a litre in Strontian.
We camped at Resipole, at an excellent camping/caravan site we have used several times before. Go prepared for midges and you will be OK. By the time we had the tent up and had eaten, we were both knackered and with several hours of daylight left we decided to get some sleep.
Marion had warned me she would be grumpy getting up at 2230 and she was true to her word. However I was also true to mine and by 2300 we were in the car and on our way outward along the Ardnamurchan peninsula. It was reasonably dark under the trees, where (presumed) Common Pipistrelles and Natterer's Bats were already active, but in the open it was quite light and I could see we might have to wait for full darkness and spotlight effectiveness. If it got dark at all!
A Field Vole ran across the road in front of us, and a few Red Deer trotted out of our way quite casually. By Cala Darach, the ex-B&B, a Barn Owl was hunting a rushy field. It slammed down into the vegetation and stayed down for a couple of minutes, so I reckon it must have scored.
Thankfully by now the light had finally faded. Broken cloud helped the darkness along, the wind had dropped significantly and it was, thank goodness, dry. It was with some optimism that I parked up in a passing place at the foot of the basin, plugged the spotlight into the cigarette lighter and began scanning the rushes and grasses. I picked up plenty of sheep and quite a few Red Deer, but all fairly close to the road and it wasn't long before I decided to deploy the big spot. This is rechargeable in the car but can't be run directly off it, so it has a limited life in the field.
The extra power makes up for that, and the huge male Wildcat who must have been sneering at the puny thing that wasn't reaching him was well and truly caught out by the beam that stretched halfway across the bowl and nailed him in the open. I picked up his eyeshine on a quick scan and had him lined up in bins in the beam seconds later. He had been trotting down a deer track that cut through the damp rushes, but gave us only a brief clear view before he made off to our right across the floor of the basin, moving quickly. I followed him for about two hundred yards before he must have found some dead ground and vanished completely. Maz was also delighted with the view.
As it was now just after midnight we decided to quit while we were ahead and returned to the campsite, seeing a big Red Fox cub exploring the road on the way. I was pretty pleased with that as well, as I don't often see foxes in Scotland.
The following day we had a lie-in and a leisurely start that included four Harbour Porpoises in Loch Sunart, then went out to the Point. We stopped at Camas nan Geall on the way and had excellent scope views of a pair of Golden Eagles. At one point they alighted together on the hillside opposite and we could see how different they were as individuals, one huge and dark, the other smaller, neater and with a magnificent golden head and nape.
Seawatching from the Point yielded hundreds of Manx Shearwaters but little else of note and certainly no cetaceans. It was fairly windy which doesn't help cetacean watching of course!
We knocked off early as the weather was again deteriorating, had a bit of a party in the car and gave up at 2130 as the weather was by now rubbish. Overnight it got much much worse and by morning the tent was half blown down and everything was getting wet. We decided to quit (only a day early) stuffed the wet things into bin bags and headed South. We scored on the Rosefinch again en route, making it a June and July tick, and reached home at about 2145 on 1st July.
Despite this being the fourth time weather has driven us off Ardnamurchan we are already considering our next trip.
Had it been dryer, there were Otters being seen daily at Resipole (and more between the Natural History Centre at Glenmore and Cala Darach), and Pine Martens behind the wardens' caravan on the camp site. The people were all very helpful and friendly, and invited us to stake the animals out and put jammy squares out for them (due to the weather we ate the peanut butter and jam sandwiches ourselves. Bad luck Pine Martens!)
The Glenmore manager had also had a cat recently, spotlighted in the narrow valley below the basin. Pine Martens were in and around his buildings as well.
Back to normal for a while now.....
John