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Cleaning My Binocular Optics (1 Viewer)

Dear all,

I own some pairs of binoculars and I'd like to clean a bit the optics. Of course I won't disassemble anything, but I can see some dirt is there and I wonder if I can use glass cleaner liquids.

If I use glass cleaner liquid will it damage the optics coatings over time? My main worry is to keep the scope undamaged, so if the best thing to do is just nothing, i can live with that.

Thanks a lot,

Alisha Sanchez
 
Dear all,

I own some pairs of binoculars and I'd like to clean a bit the optics. Of course I won't disassemble anything, but I can see some dirt is there and I wonder if I can use glass cleaner liquids.

If I use glass cleaner liquid will it damage the optics coatings over time? My main worry is to keep the scope undamaged, so if the best thing to do is just nothing, i can live with that.

Thanks a lot,

Alisha Sanchez

I doubt glass cleaner would damage the optics coatings over time. However, I wouldn't risk it. There's lots of older threads about cleaning optics. The main danger I think is scratching through rubbing with a cloth that has a bit of grit on it. So best thing I reckon is to buy some 1-use optics wipes. Zeiss and others do them and they're very cheap online. They are damp with cleaning fluid and being individually sealed completely free of any particles. A small box of wipes lasts a long time as you don't need to clean much. It's worth having a lens blower and a lens brush to blow and brush away any dust from the lens and around it before then using the wipe. Do that and you put your lens in zero danger and the wipes do a good job of cleaning.
 
I doubt glass cleaner would damage the optics coatings over time. However, I wouldn't risk it. There's lots of older threads about cleaning optics. The main danger I think is scratching through rubbing with a cloth that has a bit of grit on it. So best thing I reckon is to buy some 1-use optics wipes. Zeiss and others do them and they're very cheap online. They are damp with cleaning fluid and being individually sealed completely free of any particles. A small box of wipes lasts a long time as you don't need to clean much. It's worth having a lens blower and a lens brush to blow and brush away any dust from the lens and around it before then using the wipe. Do that and you put your lens in zero danger and the wipes do a good job of cleaning.

Thanks for the input! I usually use disposable alcohol swab pad primarily used in pharmacy as disinfectant. I buy them from my nearby pharmacy; handy and portable -100 pads per box.
 
Hi,

first of all it has to be said that cleaning should only happen if is really necessary - and for dirt to actually impair the view quite astonishing amounts are needed. Arduous cleaning with the wrong tools often leads to lots of micro-scratches in the coatings over time and this will impact the view and the resale value.

As a first tool a little soft brush/blower is warmly recommended to get rid of dust specks - if you can be bothered.
DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR FROM A CAN OR COMPRESSOR! In the best case you just get some oil from the can to the lens to get it really dirty, in the worst case your front element might crack due to temperature shock!

If you cannot blow it away and the instrument is waterproof, running tap water is recommended - if you trust the waterproofing that much you could even immerse in warm water with a bit of dish soap and very gentle circular movements with your fingertips - this is actually a recommended way to clean large metal coated first surface mirrors for astro scopes which are way more delicate than your usual anti-reflection coating on glass lenses. If you are concerned about water stains you can use distilled water or isopropyl alcohol as a last rinse.

If the instrument is not waterproof and dirt cannot be blown away, wet optical wipes or a clean soft microfiber cloth with a suitable cleaning solution can be used - as for what is suitable really depends on the coatings and what is around the glass.
Optical coatings are quite unaffected by chemicals, so most solvents are ok if they are clean and will evaporate without residue - e.g. alcohol, surgical spirit or acetone - please only use in a well ventilated place to avoid inhalation and fire damage!

There might be non-optical coatings on top of the optical ones - e.g. those for lotos effect which will be affected by solvents - in that case read the instructions which usually have a warning then or ask the manufacturer what is ok.

Also of course you can easily damage rubber armour or paint with the liberal use of solvents, so care must be taken to not bring the solvent in contact with these. There are also pre made cleaning fluids for optics available - one brand well regarded in the astronoy scene is Baader optical wonder...

Joachim
 
Hi,

first of all it has to be said that cleaning should only happen if is really necessary - and for dirt to actually impair the view quite astonishing amounts are needed. Arduous cleaning with the wrong tools often leads to lots of micro-scratches in the coatings over time and this will impact the view and the resale value.

As a first tool a little soft brush/blower is warmly recommended to get rid of dust specks - if you can be bothered.
DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR FROM A CAN OR COMPRESSOR! In the best case you just get some oil from the can to the lens to get it really dirty, in the worst case your front element might crack due to temperature shock!

If you cannot blow it away and the instrument is waterproof, running tap water is recommended - if you trust the waterproofing that much you could even immerse in warm water with a bit of dish soap and very gentle circular movements with your fingertips - this is actually a recommended way to clean large metal coated first surface mirrors for astro scopes which are way more delicate than your usual anti-reflection coating on glass lenses. If you are concerned about water stains you can use distilled water or isopropyl alcohol as a last rinse.

If the instrument is not waterproof and dirt cannot be blown away, wet optical wipes or a clean soft microfiber cloth with a suitable cleaning solution can be used - as for what is suitable really depends on the coatings and what is around the glass.
Optical coatings are quite unaffected by chemicals, so most solvents are ok if they are clean and will evaporate without residue - e.g. alcohol, surgical spirit or acetone - please only use in a well ventilated place to avoid inhalation and fire damage!

There might be non-optical coatings on top of the optical ones - e.g. those for lotos effect which will be affected by solvents - in that case read the instructions which usually have a warning then or ask the manufacturer what is ok.

Also of course you can easily damage rubber armour or paint with the liberal use of solvents, so care must be taken to not bring the solvent in contact with these. There are also pre made cleaning fluids for optics available - one brand well regarded in the astronoy scene is Baader optical wonder...

Joachim

Joachim:

I certainly agree one should not use "canned air" IF they are not familiar with the correct—common sense—procedure. For those who know, it can be a godsend.

I know what the urban legend of the masses says. However, after they have pleased several thousand customers, I'd like to revisit the issue with them. :cat:


Bill
 

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Hi Bill,

whatever a pro with many years of experience does, having a layman use canned or compressed air on optics is NOT a good idea.

See https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/618878-do-not-use-compressed-air-on-glass/?hl=compressed for an example why - that front element is a goner from some canned air.

Joachim

And that, my friend, is why I said it as I did.

The following is from a book the name of which I am not allowed to mention:

20 “I NEED TO HAVE MY LENSES PROFESSIONALLY CLEANED.”


As Aristotle, that ancient sage of scientific thinking was known to say so emphatically: “Bull!” (I watered that down a lot.)

WARNING: I’ve given step-by-step instructions on cleaning optics as simple as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, only to have them repeated back to me as 1, 3, 5, 4, 2. So to save my bacon, of which there are copious amounts, I must say I don’t guarantee one word of what I am about to say. I verify only I have used these methods successfully in a professional setting for many years. :cat:

Finally, yes, I read all that. However, it has been my experience that on bino forums, unjustified opinions and urban legends outnumber facts by about 20 to 1. I don't think you need me to offer examples.

Bill
 
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