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Help needed with DIY Finnstick (1 Viewer)

W

Winterdune

Well-known member
Hi all,
I have been investigating the idea of dropping from x10 to x8 bins (thanks for all the advice on that thread) and in the process discovered the joys of using a stick to support binoculars, which seems to help me a lot with arm strain and stability.

So I have removed a leg from my very lightweight Manfrotto travel tripod and want to find a way to be able to attach it to my bins, as in the pictures. My DIY skills are low and my imagination worse. The best way I can think of is to use some sort of velcro loop but this would probably slip off when I didn't have the bins raised to my eyes and I want to be able to leave it on when the bins are against my chest. Any ideas from more practical folks would be most welcome!
Thanks
Sean
EDIT: added 2 pics of my first attempt...
 

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So I have tried out my first attempt. It is definitely better on the shoulders and neck muscles so great for extended sky viewing/viz migging, but it doesn't seem to be more stable when looking at birds on the ground etc. I was actually quite happy with the set up though, so not sure I actually need a more elegant solution...
 
Try a binocular tripod adapter on a monopod as a trial. You can get a basic one from Opticron or an expensive one from Swaro'. Someone may have a mono they could lend you. I remember all the locals using a " Finnstick" when in Finland many years ago. Good luck.
 
Sean,

Try making something like the "Binocular Rest" #E-123 shown in the PDF below of the now discontinued Stoney Point Monopod. It is about 1 inch by 5 inches long and you balance the center hinge of your SLC binocular on it while you use it. It attaches to the top of your Finn Stick so you would need a sturdy walking stick to start with.

I have used my Swarovski SLC 7x42 B with a 2X adaptor on it with this Stoney Point binocular rest and it works well. It swivels up and down on a hinge that can be tightened with a wing nut. You still have to give it some support with your hand while using it so keep your neck strap on while using it!;) Alternatively you can also turn it at right angles to your binocular and balance it on the rest while you hold it there.

http://danhberger.com/www.danhberger.com/Duraguard_Michaels_of_Oregon_files/StoneyPointCat.pdf

Bob
 
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seanofford,

You may be interested in this old thread that I started in 2005 about a FISMO. (Finn Stick Monopod)

The whole idea is to have a platform to rest the binocular. Unfortunately, any stick will rotate horizontally so the concept isn't perfect.

Ed
 
seanofford said:
So you use it in parallel with your bins rather than perpendicular to them Bob?
Click to expand...

Most of the time, yes.

I place the bottom of the hinge of the binocular along the length of the Binocular Rest which is round and covered with a sponge like material.

Bob
 
Physics define movement of an object by straight travel along 3 perpendicular axes, the change of orientation by rotation around 3 perpendicular axes.

Internally stabilized observation optics only react to rotational movement around the horizontal and vertical axes. All other components of (unwanted) movements being irrelevant for this type of application.

Unfortunately a finnstick without firm connection to the optics can hardly hinder unwanted rotation of the optics and therefore serves more weightbearing of optics and arms, hardly stabilisation purposes. On the contrary hands holding the optics instead of the monopod rather induce additional relative movements between the two.

Hans Weigum
 
Hans Weigum said:
Physics define movement of an object by straight travel along 3 perpendicular axes, the change of orientation by rotation around 3 perpendicular axes.

Internally stabilized observation optics only react to rotational movement around the horizontal and vertical axes. All other components of (unwanted) movements being irrelevant for this type of application.

Unfortunately a finnstick without firm connection to the optics can hardly hinder unwanted rotation of the optics and therefore serves more weightbearing of optics and arms, hardly stabilisation purposes. On the contrary hands holding the optics instead of the monopod rather induce additional relative movements between the two.

Hans Weigum
Click to expand...

A monopod will have little influence on straight travel along the transverse and lateral axes, but will eliminate it in the vertical axis. It will also significantly reduce pitch and roll and even yaw if the foot or column (e.g. Manfrotto Neotec) is damped. So is a monopod a viable substitute for IS?

John
 
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Tringa45 said:
A monopod will have little influence on straight travel along the transverse and lateral axes, but will eliminate it in the vertical axis. It will also significantly reduce pitch and roll and even yaw if the foot or column (e.g. Manfrotto Neotec) is damped. So is a monopod a viable substitute for IS?

John
Click to expand...

A monopod, dear John, but only with a firm (angularwise stable) connection between instrument and support can effectively reduce unwanted angular movements. The reduced vertical transversal travel vertically in case of a finnstick being irrelevant as mentioned earlier.
So a monopod can partly replace, in a much simpler way, an expensive internally stabilised observation instrument.

In combination of the two methods, however, a loose contact on top of a monopod is sufficient. For longer observation with a heavy, IS Zeiss 20x60s a monopod significantly increases comfort but only slightly improves image stability.

Hans Weigum
 
Hans and John,

Some information to add to the points you have made.

I set up my Canon 18x50 is on a monopod to look at the differences in tremor/movement in various situations. The 18x was used as it is the most susceptible to movement being such a high magnification. It also has a screw boss for ridgid attachment to the monopod. The test was carried out sitting as I am 6' 2" tall and the monopod is not long enough to allow me to stand.

The severity of tremor goes from worst to best in the cases set out below.

1. Handheld without stabilization. For me the binocular is virtually unusable but I do have minor
tremor which is my reason for going over completely to stabilized binoculars. Remember it is an
18x magnification

2. On grounded monopod without stabilization. Sufficient tremor to make the view unpleasant.

3. On grounded monopod with stabilization. Stable image and usable but the restriction of the
movement of the binocular, even with all of the tripod locks loose is tiresome.

4. Handheld with stabilisation. Stable image and far more usable as there is no restriction on
natural movement.

This test mirrors all of my findings and conclusions over 3 years use, that a handheld stabilised binocular is unbeatable.

Stan
 
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Stan,

Yes, for us taller folk the choice of monopods is somewhat restricted - most of them are far too short.
However, I don't see how the use of a monopod could impair the stability of your IS bins unless you are using a ball head without friction adjustment. The lateral tilt offered by a ball head is unneeded and unwanted and the ideal is a simple tilt head like a Manfrotto 234 or Sirui L-10. Some even cope with mounting the binocular adapter directly on the monopod. Not ideal for following birds in flight but even then the additional moment of inertia of the monopod without ground contact improves the stability.

John
 
I enjoy reading about your work with the DIY Finstick. For myself, I use a monopod with a rotatable head. Not as stable as a 3-legged tripod, but does have the convenience of easy to grab and go and carry in the field.
 
I did my own finstick from broomstick. :t: It works well in migration watch and it is inexpensive. Most birders use some kind of similar and very simple solutions.
 

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