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Sears 10x50 Binocular (1 Viewer)

publin

Active member
HI EVRYONE! as a new member on this site and binocular collector I ask if someone know about sears 10x50 bino. f.o.v 8* and very nice and wide oculars! [ similar body structure to swift binjoculars] this company bino"s from japan as swift . they for sale on ebay site for 70$ [ includ the shipping to israel 40$] are they bak4 prisms? they are full coated only! thanks for the answer! - publin
 
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Publin, welcome.

The price is good if the binocular is properly aligned, free of fungus and moisture deposit.
It might need to be serviced if you know a good technician.

Store in a dry place.

It may be somewhat under 8 degrees.

I have quite a few Japanese 10x50s with measured fields of 7.5 to 7.9 degrees.

Regards,
B.

The Sears 2531 seem to have squared off exit pupils, but so do many EWA binoculars.
Classic style screw in tubes, not 'American' design.
I don't know if that is the one mentioned here.
 
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Sears 10x50

Attached Pictures Of The Bino.
 

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HI BINASTRO! I read an old thread that you been asked about lens cleaning. I am not expert technician but opend meny binoculars includ prisms! what is your opinion about HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3% SOLUTION for lens haze/ fungus cleaning? [ on youtube meny short video of cleaning with this liquid. you aware or tried this?
 
Hi publin,

I have no experience of using hydrogen peroxide on optics.
I don't know if it can harm coatings, high index glass, edge blackening or paint.

EWA is extra wide angle. Say greater than 70 degrees simple AFOV, apparent field of view.

Regards,
B.
 
HI BINASTRO! I have now the sears 10x50 as you said they have f.o.v about 7.8 - 8 degree. and clear lens but have a problem of collimetion . as for now I trying to fix it. this bino. have the colimate screw on the barrels that I find out under the black cover. did you have experience of colimate binoculars? I HAVE BUT on objectiv eccentric lenses colimation in baigish bino. as I knew the 2 screw in the ocular side are for horizon alignment and the 2 screw on the objectiv barrel for the vertical alignment. so I will try to fix it to save this nice bino.
 
HI BINASTRO! I read an old thread that you been asked about lens cleaning. I am not expert technician but opend meny binoculars includ prisms! what is your opinion about HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3% SOLUTION for lens haze/ fungus cleaning? [ on youtube meny short video of cleaning with this liquid. you aware or tried this?

See attached.:cat:

BC
 

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mr. WJC! dont response to my thread's if your answers not offer a solution and attached with nonsense articles. you are not assist to solve or participant dialogue on issues of optics this forum! thanks!
 
publin,
That seems a bit unfair.
Perhaps the humour is misunderstood.

I sometimes don't understand U.S. humour and they don't understand British humour.
Separated by a common language, which is actually a bit different.

A professional says what cleaning method he uses.

I use non standard methods that work for me.

I cannot give collimation advice for binoculars as I am not a professional binocular optics worker.
I have aligned many telescopes, but that is different.

B.
 
mr. WJC! dont response to my thread's if your answers not offer a solution and attached with nonsense articles. you are not assist to solve or participant dialogue on issues of optics this forum! thanks!

Mr. Publin,

Based on your rudeness to me, and ignorance of optics, I was prepared to respond in kind. However, I deleted that post, repented, and will try another way. Binastro, being a nicer guy than me—although he obviously can’t spell “humor” 8-P —answered you with thoughtful kindness. I was prepared to meet you with the old saying, “If you mess with the bull, you’ll get the horn.”

In regard to that “nonsense” article, EVERY word in it was true. EVERY word in it could have been valuable to you—whether YOU understood the humor or not—because it came from one who, after a lifetime in professional optics, is absolutely mystified, and sometimes angered, by those who feel some sick need to say something about optics—for which they are not qualified—that costs our neighbors time, money, and frustration. Don’t you think after 45 years in optics engineering, repair, and collimation that if Hydrogen Peroxide were something to be used in cleaning optics I would have heard of it? What about InstaClear, LensLuster, Kodak this, Vivitar that, Bausch & Lomb something else, and, hey, Zeiss cleaner has an emulsifier.

Years ago, there was a fellow who knew better than me (because he had been speaking with his local optical guru) how to attach his prisms at the corners. He learned from the opinionated—but inexperienced—how “Superglue” would be “so much better” than the adhesive I used. (I had only been in optics 37 years at that point.) I warned him about superglue’s “outgassing”—something of which he was not aware and had never heard of. And since HE hadn’t heard of it, I must have been making it up ... right?

So, he used Superglue. A few minutes later, on noticing images in that side of the binocular were totally milky, he came to me to bail him out. But with the outgassing coating ALL the exposed surfaces on that side—and being quite resilient even to acetone—I had to tell him that what would have cost him nothing, had he followed my advice—the REPAIR would now cost 3 times what his binocular was worth ... new, because of the tremendous amount of work involved. Was it MY fault that he chose to listen to a big-mouthed but inexperienced friend? Do you think he thought of that on his way to the dumpster with his paperweight shaped like a binocular?

Publin, I am, perhaps, just more human than most, but I can’t help growing frustrated at the absolute ABSURDITIES associated with cleaning optics and so many other things related to optics in general and binoculars in particular.

— NO, acetone doesn’t remove lens coatings. Abrasion, and coatings deposited at too low a temperature cause the problem. That’s why professionals leave jabber jawing to the opto-wannabes while they get on with cleaning optics ... as they have done for decades. Acetone is routinely used by TeleView Optics, Lawrence Livermore Labs, and many other places where EXPERIENCED optical professionals work.

— NO, acetone is not a carcinogen; it’s manufactured in our bodies.

— NO, Windex need not be avoided, although the “original” Windex sold in store, today is NOT the original 1933 Windex glass cleaner and contains chemicals to make it a “household cleaner.” The original (Harry Drackett) formula is offered in the “nonsense” article.

I don’t hold you accountable because English is not your first language. Please don’t hold me accountable because it IS mine.

I thought you came to Bird Forum because you wanted to know more. Yet, you needn’t worry, I will no longer interfere with “YOUR” thread. :cat:

Bill
 
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I am in this forum to take advices and professional knowledge from members that give a direct answers like binastro NOT like your lecture's . and dont !! try again to insert sentence like "If you mess with the bull, you’ll get the horn.” not to me or any member of this forum! I can report this kind of warning to the forum menegment. DONT TRY TO ANSWER MY THREAD .
 
The problem is publin, there are almost no professional binocular workers who normally write on this forum.
Perhaps three or four in total.

I knew two world class optical workers, both are now no longer alive.
I know two still who are world class, but I only ask them if I have no one else to ask.
There is one other, who I know of, but have not approached.

In the photographic world there was one world authority. He is also not alive.
I know a few others, but they are in their eighties.

The professional workers on the major companies will not give their advice, as it is commercially sensitive.

Us amateurs have some knowledge, but it is not necessarily of a professional standard.

And it is correct that much of the internet is very flawed.

B.
 
Hydrogen Peroxide.

Just chatted to professional chemist and world class lens authority. Also written papers on fungus on lenses.

Hydrogen Peroxide used many years ago as a disinfectant, instead of Dettol.
A strong oxidising agent.

Used for making hair blonde.
But it can be a little painful.
(A hairdresser might know quite a bit about hydrogen peroxide).

May not damage paint. Probably doesn't damage glass or coating.

This chemist and lens specialist would use acetone. He has not used hydrogen peroxide and it isn't the obvious choice.

Nothing will deal with lens etching. Glass has to be repolished.

Personally, I use a small amount of water on soft tissue. I remove as much fungus as possible and allow the glass to dry. Gently not forcefully.
Sunlight kills many organisms.

B.
 
HI BINASTRO! you 100% correct that professional optics today are rare and we need them in this forum for advices and knowledge and experience in optic items. I am disappointed that no one in this forum can't advice about collimation problems and deep lens cleaning fluid products except for acetone and as wjc mention propanol[isopropy alcohol] that I think they are good then just water and cotton swabe [ micro-fiber]] to remove fungus or haze from bino's . as we take care and make preventive treatment for our optics and not only use them for viewing.
 
Isopropyl alcohol is gentler on the fingers... though reagent grade ethanol is more fun for prolonged usage. Be gentle and don’t apply force. Compressed air is useful to blow dry and avoid dirt marks. I am lucky I work with a professional glass worker... the friendliest perfectionist I know.

Peter
 
Publin,

I use Baader Optical Wonder fluid for cleaning as well as carefully using water and common lens cleaning fluid.
I use soft white tissues and cotton buds as well as microfibre cloths.

I have probably cleaned fungus in over a hundred lenses, telescopes, eyepieces and binoculars.
It needs time and care, especially near the lens edges.
Nowadays, I just don't buy fungus optics. Or if I do they will probably go straight into the rubbish bin.
Fungus in cases go straight in the bin.
I have better things to do now than opening optics and cleaning fungus.

Professionals seem to use Acetone.

I see no problem if the above does the job.

As to correct binocular collimation, WJC has written, I think, two books on the subject which are well reviewed.

Again, I see no problem, if one wants to understand the correct procedure.

I don't know if anybody locally to you does 3 axis collimation.

I would think that Russian trained binocular optical technicians will know how to do 3 axis collimation if they have the correct type of collimator.

B.
 
isopropyl alcohol/ acetone/ ethanol / hydrogen proxide all of them can use for the hi hair color / nail color removal as they are useful solvent for lens cleaning too. the big concern is the " safety " of the coating!
 
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