I'm thinking of going to the Pantanal in September for two weeks - Not surprisingly there is a lot of species overlap with the llanos of Venezuela where I have previously been... Anyway, I went through a bunch of reports on cloud-birders and there is obviously some good info there; I have only just started doing my homework on this area and I was just wondering if any independent travelers have mapped out a notably desirable route.
Hello Cassowary,
To visit this zone, the typical route is to drive down the Transpantaneira Park Road, that is easily reachable from the city of Cuiaba.
On the Transpantaneira Park Road, I highly recommend the Pouso Alegre Lodge, where is concentrated almost half of the biodiversity of the Pantanal. You can stay there a couple of days to make the most of your birding / wildlife activities. An other pousada that is noticeable is the Rio Claro lodge, especially for boat safaris. At the end of the road, Porto Jofre offers amazing jaguar spotting opportunities.
You can combine North Pantanal with the Chapada dos Guimaraes National Park. The vegetation type is locally known as the "Cerrado" (Brazilian savanna), where you can find endemic bird species and other wildlife. I've heard there is a nest of Chaco eagle you can spot at the Pousada do Parque.
An other place you can consider is the province of Bom Jardim, that is also quite close to Cuiaba. You can enjoy snorkeling in crystal clear waters and swim with Neotropical fish. There are also some good birding opportunities (tons of blue-and-yellow macaws).
As for your stay in North Pantanal, you could do a river cruise. It would allow you to exploring different areas of the Pantanal. Your chances to spot tons of singular wildlife would be increased and the experience is definitely worth it.
I can't talk much about South Pantanal, that I don't know. Some people say it's easier to spot giant anteaters there, but I think it's not true. There are several factors affecting the experience such as the guide, the location and the season.
Another aspect which must not be neglected in a trip to the Pantanal is the chance!
I hope that helps!
