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How waterproof is your anorak? (1 Viewer)

I had struggled with my Paramo since I bought it as it just would not re-proof. Since getting a new washing machine I have successfully solved it and it is the dog's bolloxs now!
 
Bluetail said:
Hi Andrew. As you probably realise, I wear a Barbour - the "Border" model. Old hat, I know, but if it ain't bust and all that. It does leak a bit on top of the shoulders (not badly) for reasons I've never worked out, but otherwise is very good. Previously I had the heavyweight version of this, the "Northumberland", and couldn't fault its waterproofing in any way. I was once in the middle of nowhere when I heard an express train approaching - except that there was no railway anywhere in the area. I soon realised it was veritable waterfall of torrential rain. My trousers were completely sodden within three seconds, but the jacket didn't leak a drop. Trouble was it weighed a ton: it was like birding from inside a Churchill tank - which was why I downgraded.

There must be equally effective, but more comfortable products out there. I shall read this thread with interest.

Being a Fisherman most of my life, I have owned Barbours (Border and Northumbria)...they're great jackets in looks and performance, apart from the fact that Barbour have never realised that some people have longer arms than others.
So, when they're dry the sleeves are Just long enough, but a soon as they get a soaking, the cotton shrinks ( due to the rain or the cold, or both) and you end up with 2 inches of jumper sticking out from your cuff.

Maybe my next one should be made to measure!

paj
 
Andrew said:
I had struggled with my Paramo since I bought it as it just would not re-proof. Since getting a new washing machine I have successfully solved it and it is the dog's bolloxs now!
The washer needs to be free of previous detergent or the Nikwax will not adhere to the garment. Best, I find, to handwash then tumble dry.
 
scampo said:
The washer needs to be free of previous detergent or the Nikwax will not adhere to the garment. Best, I find, to handwash then tumble dry.

Or rinse your washer and the soap tray out before washing your Paramo.
 
Hill_Walker said:
Or rinse your washer and the soap tray out before washing your Paramo.
I would have thought so - but many machines hang on to lots of powder in the drawer and this might be the reason the previous waterproofing failed. Also, of course, it's vital to use a non-detergent wash powder or liquid. I wouldn't use anything other than NikWax but it's pricey and I do wonder if there aren't alternatives.
 
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Forgive me if someone has already mentione this but all membrane containing jackets will leak eventually. However, I have never had a decent jacket leak even after 8-10 hours of continual Scottish rain. The secret is regular washing and reproofing of the outer layer with the correct products. Dirty jackets leak more quickly than clean ones. So reproof regulary and finish off with a gentle, low temp iron. Then go stand under a water fall.

Andy
 
Egret said:
Forgive me if someone has already mentione this but all membrane containing jackets will leak eventually. However, I have never had a decent jacket leak even after 8-10 hours of continual Scottish rain. The secret is regular washing and reproofing of the outer layer with the correct products. Dirty jackets leak more quickly than clean ones. So reproof regulary and finish off with a gentle, low temp iron. Then go stand under a water fall.

Andy
You're meaning Paramo, are you? I think the tumble drier does the job, too.
 
Hi Steve,

judging by the reference to "reproofing the outer layer", I think Andy's referring to the care of any good jacket, and in particular Goretex and similar kit - they'll certainly last longer and work better if they're kept clean and regularly reproofed.
 
Sorry, for not making myself clear; I do mean "Goretex", "Isotex" etc washed and reproofed with products such as "Nikwax Tech Wash" and "TX.Direct.

The simple test is to stand in the rain and look at your jacket. If the water is wetting the jacket, rather than forming beads on the surface, it needs cleaned and reproofed. A jacket which "wets" does not breath and leaks sooner than a proofed jacket.

Andy
 
I am gonna get the bulk wash/proof bottles to make it a lot cheaper.

The small combos work out about £8 for three washes which is pricey!
 
Egret said:
Sorry, for not making myself clear; I do mean "Goretex", "Isotex" etc washed and reproofed with products such as "Nikwax Tech Wash" and "TX.Direct.

The simple test is to stand in the rain and look at your jacket. If the water is wetting the jacket, rather than forming beads on the surface, it needs cleaned and reproofed. A jacket which "wets" does not breath and leaks sooner than a proofed jacket.

Andy
Whew - twenty seconds for this page to load! Slow today.

To my limited knowledge, any breathable coat with a membrane such as Goretex will not be improved with Nikwax TX. This product, I thought, was only used to reproof Paramo kit - which does not have a membrane. My old membrane Helly Hansen never needed any treatment but when its membrane went, that was that. And my, doesn't the waterproofing go in style when it does. Not with Paramo...

Paramo kit is unique in not having any membrane at all and relying instead on the NikWax polymer creating a waterproof coating on each of the fabric strands within all layers of the fabric from the outer layer to the inner layer.

The membrane systems have no way to be reproofed since it is the existence of the fixed polymer membrane beneath the outer fabric layer alone that creates the waterproofing / breathability aspect.

That said, I suppose that the Nikwax would proof the outer layer on a membrane system - but I'm surprised it's needed as the membrane is what does the work and any extra polymer would likely affect the performance of the membrane adversely regarding breathability
 
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Hi again, Steve,

it's really important that Goretex and similar membrane jackets are able to bead water if they are to work to the best of their ability, otherwise, although the membrane will keep the water out, the face material will "wet out" and be far less efficient.

The label on Nikwax TX Direct actually says (with my emphasis):

Reproofing for laminated and coated breathable waterproof fabrics.
In addition, a wetted-out jacket is very prone to chilling the wearer in cold weather, so the ability to bead water is important for that reason too.
 
scampo said:
Whew - twenty seconds for this page to load! Slow today.

To my limited knowledge, any breathable coat with a membrane such as Goretex will not be improved with Nikwax TX. This product, I thought, was only used to reproof Paramo kit - which does not have a membrane. My old membrane Helly Hansen never needed any treatment but when its membrane went, that was that. And my, doesn't the waterproofing go in style when it does. Not with Paramo...

Paramo kit is unique in not having any membrane at all and relying instead on the NikWax polymer creating a waterproof coating on each of the fabric strands within all layers of the fabric from the outer layer to the inner layer.

The membrane systems have no way to be reproofed since it is the existence of the fixed polymer membrane beneath the outer fabric layer alone that creates the waterproofing / breathability aspect.

That said, I suppose that the Nikwax would proof the outer layer on a membrane system - but I'm surprised it's needed as the membrane is what does the work and any extra polymer would likely affect the performance of the membrane adversely regarding breathability

Trust me, I have been wearing "Goretex" for Scottish hill walking and birding for years and re-proofing the outer face is vital. If you don't trust me then trust my wife because she does the ironing! (apparently I can be trusted with trousers and shirts but not, expensive jackets.


Andy
 
Egret said:
Trust me, I have been wearing "Goretex" for Scottish hill walking and birding for years and re-proofing the outer face is vital. If you don't trust me then trust my wife because she does the ironing! (apparently I can be trusted with trousers and shirts but not, expensive jackets.


Andy
Must be right, but my Helly Hansen never said to do anything except wash it and it lasted for very many years and saved me from some of the worst of Dartmoor's rain (which, I know is wussily wet compared to what you get north o'the border!).

I've never seen any other coats recommend NikWax either but what you say sounds fair enough.
 
Keith Reeder said:
Hi again, Steve,

it's really important that Goretex and similar membrane jackets are able to bead water if they are to work to the best of their ability, otherwise, although the membrane will keep the water out, the face material will "wet out" and be far less efficient.

The label on Nikwax TX Direct actually says (with my emphasis):


In addition, a wetted-out jacket is very prone to chilling the wearer in cold weather, so the ability to bead water is important for that reason too.
Yes - I see it does; but the label on a Goretex coat doesn't say use Nikwax, does it? Odd. But the idea seems spot on and NikWax is incredible stuff.
 
Keith Reeder said:
Hi again, Steve,

it's really important that Goretex and similar membrane jackets are able to bead water if they are to work to the best of their ability, otherwise, although the membrane will keep the water out, the face material will "wet out" and be far less efficient.

The label on Nikwax TX Direct actually says (with my emphasis):


In addition, a wetted-out jacket is very prone to chilling the wearer in cold weather, so the ability to bead water is important for that reason too.
Yes - I see it does; but the label on a Goretex coat doesn't say use Nikwax, does it? Odd. But the idea seems spot on and NikWax is incredible stuff.

Btw - twenty five seconds to load this reply page. Whew.
 
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