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Visit to El Copé, Panama (1 Viewer)

Cedric K

Hey hey!!
El Copé, Panama - March 2005

Hi fellow birdwatchers,

Last March, I went to Panama for 3 weeks. Besides birding the Canal Zone (Pipeline Road, Plantation Road,...) and the Western Highlands (PN Volcan Baru, PI La Amistad), I visited the Omar Torrijos National Park near El Copé for the first time. There's very little information available on the internet about this area, so the following might be useful.

To get to the park, you have to make a right from the Interamericana about 17 km after exiting Penonomé (when coming from Panama). There are some buildings (bus stop, fonda) next to the exit, but it's a small road so don't miss it (especially in the dark at 5.30 am!). If you cross the bridge over the Rio Grande, you've gone too far. From the exit of the Interamericana, follow the two-lane road all the way to the town of El Copé. When you reach El Copé, just keep going straight. After about 100 m, the blacktop will change into a gravel road going downhill. You will cross a bridge before going back up the hill. The road is in pretty bad shape, but any 4x4 will make it easily if conditions are not too wet. I did it in a Suzuki Vitara, no sweat! From El Copé, it's about 30 minutes to get to the park. On your way up, you will pass a school on your right side in an area called El Barrigon.

The national park itself is located on the continental divide. There is a sign over the road when you enter. The guard house where you pay the entrance fee is on your left after you enter. After paying, continue along the road until you reach the clearing where the old sawmill (mentioned in Ridgely) is located. There is also a guest house on your right next to a map of the park. If you continue on the trail next to the guest house, you will bump into the visitors' center. From the visitors' center, there are two trails: the Rana Dorada trail and a short trail that circles the visitors center. The Rana Dorada is the one to take. It descends down the Carribean slope, crosses a few streams and then joins another trail that you can take back up the hill to reach the clearing at the sawmill. When entering the park and reaching the clearing, this sawmill (tiny building) is on your right side, past the guest house. After the mill, the road forks. The road itself continues uphill, where there apparently is a lookout and a research station. I didn't go that way however. At the fork a trail goes off to the right, descending down the Carribean slope. This road goes all the way down for an undetermined distance, and eventually reaches another village. This is the trail that is joined by the Rana Dorada trail. I was told there is also a trail that starts at the guard station and descends the Pacific slope, but I didn't check this out as I wanted to focus on the wetter Carribean slope.

El Copé is infamous for its bad weather, even in the dry season. On my first visit, it was very misty and extremely windy, making it nearly impossible to see any birds. Around 10.30 it started raining as well. I left shortly after, having seen only Pale-vented Thrush, Grey-breasted Wood-wren, Orange-bellied Trogon, Hepatic and Silver-throated Tanagers, and White-ruffed Manakin. Upon my second visit a week later, there was bright sunshine and no wind at all, perfect conditions!! I saw Scaled Pigeon, Orange-bellied Trogon, Pale-vented Thrush, Bananaquit, Tawny-capped Euphonia, Grey-breasted Wood-wren, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Green Honeycreeper, and the following Tanagers: Bay-headed, Silver-throated, Speckled, Emerald, Hepatic, Black-and-yellow, and Tawny-crested. Unfortunately I had to leave early that day. Some of my target birds (Snowcap, Green Thorntail, White-tipped Sicklebill, Yellow-eared Toucanet) will have to wait until next time! Maybe I'll try and catch them on Cerro Azul or Cerro Campana, which are closer to Panama City.

For those of you who have the time to visit El Copé, I would definitely recommend it! You will probably need a 4x4 vehicle to get there, and make arrangements to spend the night in the guest house in the park, or in Penonome (try Hotel Dos Continentes or Hotel Guacamayas). Small busses (from Penonome) go all the way to El Barrigon, but service is irregular and you'll need at least another hour to hike up to the park from there.

Here's the final list of what I've seen in Panama, and where I've seen it. Not bad if you consider that I got to bird for about 6 days only, between family obligations and running errants. I did almost all of my birding alone and without a guide, except for one day on Pipeline when I was joined by my good friend Mark Letzer (who grew up birdwatching in Panama, and was one of the main contributors to Ridgely's Guide to the Birds of Panama).

For pictures of my trip, see my gallery!

1. Great Tinamou (Pipeline Road)
2. Neotropic Cormorant (Horoko Golf Club)
3. Anhinga (Summit Ponds)
4. Tri-colored Heron (Gamboa Resort)
5. Snowy Egret (Panama City, Horoko Golf Club)
6. Great Egret (Horoko Golf Club)
7. Cattle Egret (Portobelo)
8. Reddish Egret (Santa Clara)
9. Little Blue Heron (Horoko Golf Club)
10. Green-backed Heron (Summit Ponds)
11. Agami Heron (Pipeline Road)
12. Fasciated Tiger-heron (Gamboa Resort)
13. Southern Lapwing (Horoko Golf Club)
14. White Ibis (Horoko Golf Club)
15. Wattled Jacana (Horoko Golf Club, Ammo Dump)
16. Brown Pelican (Panama Canal, Santa Clara)
17. Magnificent Frigatebird (Panama Canal, Santa Clara)
18. Laughing Gull (Santa Clara)
19. Sandwich Tern (Santa Clara)
20. Royal Tern (Santa Clara)
21. Whimbrel (Santa Clara)
22. Willet (Santa Clara)
23. Sanderling (Santa Clara)
24. Ruddy Turnstone (Uaguitupu)
25. Spotted Sandpiper (Uaguitupu)
26. Mangrove Swallow (Panama Canal)
27. Turkey Vulture (Panama City)
28. Black Vulture (Panama City)
29. Osprey (Panama City, Santa Clara)
30. Double-toothed Kite (Plantation Road)
31. American Swallow-tailed Kite (PILA (Retoño), PN Volcán Barú)
32. Red-tailed Hawk (PN Volcán Barú)
33. Yellow-headed Caracara (Panama City)
34. Ruddy Ground-dove (Panama City)
35. White-tipped Dove (Panama City)
36. Scaled Pigeon (PN El Copé)
37. Sulfur-winged Parakeet (PN Volcán Barú)
38. Orange-chinned Parakeet (Panama City)
39. Blue-headed Parrot (Gamboa Resort)
40. Red-lored Amazon (Canopy Tower)
41. Mealy Amazon (Canopy Tower)
42. Squirrel Cuckoo (El Valle, Pipeline Road)
43. Ringed Kingfisher (Pipeline Road)
44. Black-throated Trogon (Pipeline Road)
45. Slaty-tailed Trogon (Pipeline Road)
46. Orange-bellied Trogon (PN El Copé)
47. Resplendent Quetzal (PN Volcán Barú)
48. Red-headed Barbet (PN Volcán Barú)
49. Emerald Toucanet (PN Volcán Barú, PILA (Retoño))
50. Chestnut-mandibled Toucan (Canopy Tower, Pipeline Road)
51. Keel-billed Toucan (Canopy Tower, Pipeline Road, Portobelo)
52. Collared Aracari (Canopy Tower)
53. Blue-crowned Motmot (Pipeline Road)
54. Broad-billed Motmot (Plantation Road)
55. Rufous Motmot (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
56. Yellow-faced Grassquit (Cielito Sur, El Valle)
57. Blue-black Grassquit (Panama City)
58. Variable Seedeater (Panama City)
59. Blue-grey Tanager (Panama City)
60. Palm Tanager (Canopy Tower)
61. Crimson-backed Tanager (Panama City)
62. Summer Tanager (Panama City)
63. Hepatic Tanager (Cielito Sur, PN El Copé)
64. Western Tanager (Cielito Sur)
65. Spangle-cheeked Tanager (PN Volcán Barú)
66. Flame-colored Tanager (Cielito Sur, PILA (Retoño))
67. Golden-hooded Tanager (Cielito Sur, Pipeline Road)
68. Silver-throated Tanager (Finca Dracula, Cielito Sur, PN El Copé)
69. White-shouldered Tanager (Pipeline Road)
70. Speckled Tanager (PN El Copé)
71. Emerald Tanager (PN El Copé)
72. Black-and-yellow Tanager (PN El Copé)
73. Tawny-crested Tanager (PN El Copé)
74. Bay-headed Tanager (PN El Copé)
75. Grey-headed Tanager (Pipeline Road)
76. Common Bush-tanager (Finca Dracula)
77. Sooty-capped Bush-tanager (PN Volcán Barú)
78. Red-throated Ant-tanager (Pipeline Road)
79. Golden-browed Chlorophonia (PN Volcán Barú)
80. Slaty Flowerpiercer (Cielito Sur)
81. Flame-throated Warbler (PN Volcán Barú, PILA (Cascada))
82. Black-cheeked Warbler (PILA (Retoño))
83. Wilson's Warbler (PN Volcán Barú, Finca Dracula)
84. Yellow Warbler (Penonomé)
85. Bananaquit (PN El Copé)
86. Tawny-capped Euphonia (PN El Copé)
87. Thick-billed Euphonia (Ammo Dump, El Valle)
88. Collared Redstart (PN Volcán Barú, PILA, Finca Dracula)
89. Slate-throated Redstart (Cielito Sur, Finca Dracula)
90. Rufous-collared Sparrow (Cielito Sur)
91. Black-striped Sparrow (El Valle)
92. Yellow-thighed Finch (PN Volcán Barú, PILA)
93. Large-footed Finch (PN Volcán Barú)
94. Yellow-throated Brush-finch (Cielito Sur)
95. Chestnut-capped Brush-finch (Cielito Sur)
96. Plain Xenops (Pipeline Road)
97. Olivaceous Flatbill (Pipeline Road)
98. Southern Bentbill (Pipeline Road)
99. Checker-throated Antwren (Pipeline Road)
100. Dot-winged Antwren (Pipeline Road)
101. House Wren (Penonomé, El Valle)
102. Song Wren (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
103. Bay Wren (Pipeline Road)
104. Grey-breasted Wood-wren (Cielito Sur, Finca Dracula, PN El Copé)
105. Rufous Mourner (Pipeline Road)
106. Black-breasted Puffbird (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
107. White-necked Puffbird (Gamboa Resort)
108. White-whiskered Puffbird (Pipeline Road)
109. Clay-colored Thrush (Panama City)
110. Mountain Thrush (PN Volcán Barú)
111. Pale-vented Thrush (PN El Copé)
112. Black-billed Nightingale-thrush (PILA (Cascada))
113. Rufous-browed Peppershrike (PN Volcán Barú, Santa Clara)
114. Purple-throated Fruitcrow (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
115. Red-capped Manakin (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
116. Blue-crowned Manakin (Pipeline Road)
117. White-ruffed Manakin (PN El Copé)
118. Little Hermit (Cerro La Vieja)
119. Long-tailed Hermit (Canopy Tower)
120. Green Hermit (Cielito Sur)
121. Band-tailed Barbthroat (Pipeline Road)
122. White-necked Jacobin (Canopy Tower)
123. Garden Emerald (Penonomé)
124. Rufous-tailed Hummingbird (Panama City, Cielito Sur)
125. Violet-bellied Hummingbird (Canopy Tower)
126. Snowy-bellied Hummingbird (Cielito Sur, Canopy Tower, El Valle)
127. Blue-chested Hummingbird (Canopy Tower)
128. Scintillant Hummingbird (Cielito Sur)
129. Volcano Hummingbird (PN Volcán Barú)
130. Stripe-tailed Hummingbird (Cielito Sur)
131. Magnificent Hummingbird (Cielito Sur, Finca Dracula)
132. White-throated Mountain-gem (Cielito Sur, PN Volcán Barú)
133. Violet Sabrewing (Cielito Sur)
134. Green Violet-ear (Cielito Sur)
135. Barred Antshrike (Panama City)
136. Fasciated Antshrike (Pipeline Road)
137. Western Slaty Antshrike (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
138. Black-faced Antthrush (Pipeline Road)
139. Spotted Antbird (Pipeline Road)
140. Bi-colored Antbird (Pipeline Road)
141. Ocellated Antbird (Pipeline Road)
142. Chestnut-backed Antbird (Pipeline Road)
143. Spectacled (Streak-chested) Antpitta (Pipeline Road)
144. Green Honeycreeper (Canopy Tower, PN El Copé)
145. Red-legged Honeycreeper (Pipeline Road)
146. Northern Barred Woodcreeper (Pipeline Road)
147. Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Pipeline Road)
148. Spot-crowned Woodcreeper (PILA (Cascada))
149. Black-cheeked Woodpecker (Plantation Road)
150. Red-crowned Woodpecker (Penonomé, Panama City)
151. Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road ()
152. Cinnamon Woodpecker (Pipeline Road)
153. Smoky-brown Woodpecker (PN El Copé)
154. Hairy Woodpecker (PN Volcán Barú, Cielito Sur)
155. Acorn Woodpecker (PN Volcán Barú, Cielito Sur)
156. Rose-breasted Grosbeak (Hotel Los Quetzales, El Valle)
157. Great Kiskadee (Santa Clara)
158. Tropical Kingbird (Panama City)
159. Boat-billed Flycatcher (Santa Clara)
160. Streaked Flycatcher (Santa Clara)
161. Fork-tailed Flycatcher (Horoko Golf Club)
162. Rusty-margined Flycatcher (Gamboa Resort)
163. Common Tufted-flycatcher (PN Volcán Barú)
164. Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher (Finca Dracula)
165. Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher (PN Volcán Barú, PILA (Retoño))
166. Black-faced Solitaire (PN Volcán Barú)
167. Black Phoebe (Hotel Los Quetzales, Finca Dracula)
168. Streaked Saltator (Santa Clara)
169. Silvery-throated Jay (PN Volcán Barú)
170. Baltimore Oriole (Cielito Sur)
171. Yellow-backed Oriole (Plantation Road)
172. Great-tailed Grackle (Panama City)
173. Scarlet-rumped Cacique (Plantation Road, Pipeline Road)
174. Yellow-rumped Cacique (Pipeline Road)
175. Chestnut-headed Oropendola (Horoko Golf Club)
176. Bronzed Cowbird (Cielito Sur)
177. Black Guan (PILA (Retoño))
178. Gray-headed Chachalaca (Pipeline Road)
179. Tennessee Warbler (Penonome)

Thanks for reading!

Cedric
 
Last edited:
Hi Cedric

From What I have heard Panama is a great birding area and I think your list underlines that. I had to look hard to find any birds that I have seen so if I ever get round to visiting I will certainly be guaranteed a few/many lifers!!! I am sure your info will prove usefull to others.
 
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