• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

need camera advice for Pentax PF-65A II (1 Viewer)

ostling41

ostling41

registered user
I've been doing photography since 1971, but just bought my first scope. The Pentax XW14 eyepiece on the Pentax PF-65A II gives a magnification of 28X, and so far I find this is a good choice for looking at the Gilded Flicker, which can usually be found perched atop a saguaro cactus nearby.

The scope is mounted on a Slik Pro 614CF carbon fiber tripod, with a Slik Standard ball head. I had the ball head already, and thought originally to replace it with a fluid pan head. But the ball head is serviceable, and light. The whole setup weighs only 5.5 pounds, so is no problem to carry in the field.

I've tried using my Canon G7. But the vignetting with the XW14 eyepiece is a problem, despite it having 20mm of eye relief. I've tried the camera at all focal lengths, to no avail. There is no vignetting when I use my Panasonic Lumix DMC FX-01. I don't have an adapter yet. I'm waiting for the Pentax UA-1 adapter, due out in February.

I'm thinking of getting a camera dedicated to the scope. Any advise on what you think might be optimum will be appreciated.
 
Hi Allan,
I use a Canon A570 IS with this combination and find that it works well.
I have the XL14 eyepiece and a dedicated adaptor, but I think that you have a 43mm thread on the XW? If so, then it's pretty simple - the Canon LC adaptor which gives you a 52mm thread and a step down 52 to 43 or if necessary 52 to 46, 46 to 43.

I use the'Intelligent Zoom' feature quite a lot - it's the same as an in-camera 100% crop as it just samples the centre pixels - you select a smaller file size - also means you can store many more images on the card.

I love the camera and it's really inexpensive too. Uses 2 AA batteries but you can have external supply - there is a jack socket.

It runs at 2 frames per second until the card is full, manual focus is magnified and auto focus is extremely fast and accurate. Lots of in-camera adjustments possible.

I've posted elsewhere about this camera if you are interested.

I've used a number of different cameras, CP4500. F30, Ixus, Nikon P3 and P4 and I rate this little A570 IS more highly than any - the overall total package I find really good.
possum
 
Last edited:
ostling41 said:
Alas, though superlative in every other respect, the XW-14 eyepiece does not have threads for an adapter.
Click to expand...

XW eyepieces should have M 43mm x 0.75mm thread once you remove the eyeguard. You should be able to get a low-cost adapter to convert this to attach to a standard T-thread.
 
macshark said:
XW eyepieces should have M 43mm x 0.75mm thread once you remove the eyeguard. You should be able to get a low-cost adapter to convert this to attach to a standard T-thread.
Click to expand...

The eyeguard turns on threads, but comes up against a stop at its outermost position. How can it be removed?
 
mmdnje said:
I have the XW20. The eyecup can be unscrewed and removed. In the XF series the eyecup can not be removed.
Click to expand...

I don't understand why the eyepiece on the XW20 can be unscrewed, but the one on the XW14 cannot. Does anybody have an explanation?
 
mmdnje said:
I have the XW20. The eyecup can be unscrewed and removed. In the XF series the eyecup can not be removed.
Click to expand...

I have the XF12 and yes, the eyecup comes off. Its help on by 3 little glue tabs. After that comes off, you can unscrew that metal twist eyecup holder piece.. And if you want to get real crazy, you can then also unscrew the Pentax "model of eyepiece" ring as well.

eyepiece.jpg
 
The mystery is solved. This thread from 2006 http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=61309 supplied the answer. Reply #5 mentions unscrewing the "eyepiece rubber protector" on a XW14. This uncovers threads.

So what was I doing before? I was trying to unscrew the larger barrel, into which this rubber protector screws. That screws outward to accommodate not using eyeglasses when viewing (it doesn't shift any optics). It won't come off, as I mentioned.

I feel slightly silly, but now all is well. Thanks, everybody, for your help.

[edit] Although that reply in the 2006 thread states the threads were 42mm, I see my M42 mount Pentax will not screw on. So I believe macshark is right in saying they are 43mm x 0.75mm. I'm unfamiliar with this thread -- was it used to mount any camera lenses in the past?
 
Last edited:
I think that you will find that a pitch of 0.75mm is the 'industry' standard for things lens filters, adaptor rings etc. . The M42 x 1.0 Pitch was the "Pentax' standard lens mount into their SLR cameras up until they went to a bayonet fitting.

So the M43x0.75P is the thread on the EP and you need some means to connect your camera to that thread.

I see that there was mention of a T2 thread, but you do not need to go to that size unless you have kit that fits it. The T2 thread is M42 x 0.75mm and is a preferred size in astronomical kit and so finds its way into our field as many of the accessories we use are interchangeable with them.

I would go from your M43x0.75P male on the EP to the camera via appropriate and inexpensive step up and step down rings.

Just to add to the confusion, you might want to use a DSLR camera body instead of a compact camera. If so, you can use a technique that astronomers use, namely 'Eyepiece Projection'. No camera lens, only the body and the EP of the scope.

Then, you need to go from your M43x0.75P EP thread to a T2 male thread and from that to a T2 to DSLR bayonet adaptor. You can buy a DSLR to T2 adaptor for all makes of DSLR and that way allows you to simply plug a DSLR body-only straight onto your scope.

possum
 
Last edited:
possum said:
you might want to use a DSLR camera body instead of a compact camera. If so, you can use a technique that astronomers use, namely 'Eyepiece Projection'. No camera lens, only the body and the EP of the scope.
possum
Click to expand...

Curious about this, I held my Sony A100 body (without lens) up to the eyepiece to see what image would form. What I saw through the viewfinder was not encouraging -- very dim, vignetted, and a pretty much a blur. I tried different distances from the eyepiece, but could not find a "sweet spot." I didn't spend much time trying, since I don't like to open the DSLR body to dust incursion.
 
ostling41 said:
Curious about this, I held my Sony A100 body (without lens) up to the eyepiece to see what image would form. What I saw through the viewfinder was not encouraging -- very dim, vignetted, and a pretty much a blur. I tried different distances from the eyepiece, but could not find a "sweet spot." I didn't spend much time trying, since I don't like to open the DSLR body to dust incursion.
Click to expand...

I have not been able achieve prime focus using my Pentax XW 20mm eyepiece and a Canon DSLR. However, I can achieve focus with XW 20mm when I use a macro lens on the DSLR.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 16 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Similar threads

Classick
Another "Camera Advice Needed Thread"
Replies
15
Views
2K
PaulCountyDurham
P
P
What I've learned about QR plates.
Replies
14
Views
6K
PlayFreeBird
P
Troubador
Digi-scoping with the Zeiss Harpia
Replies
1
Views
5K
Jason Bugay Reyes
Jason Bugay Reyes
Alexis Powell
Contemplating ~80mm scope w/WA zoom for digiscoping
Replies
2
Views
1K
Troubador
Troubador
K
Digiscoping with the Pentax PF-80EDa
Replies
1
Views
7K
Kunibert
K

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Back
Top