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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Celestron F-ED Pics (1 Viewer)

Thanks everyone. I was REALLY pleased to get that photo. It just goes to show that you don't necessarily have to have a top of the line alpha scope to get a decent picture.
 
Trying out another camera/lens combo with the Regal 100 F-ED this morning. Using a Panasonic GH1, Olympus 14-42mm MSC II MFT lens, and the Baader 17mm Hyperion eyepiece. Camera/lens is an easy connection using a 37-43mm step ring to go from camera lens to hyperion threaded eyepiece. Overcast this morning with slow shutter speeds. Not a good combination for hyper Tree Swallows, but managed a few shots.
 

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I have noticed that hardly anyone uses this scope or even showing their pics uses this scope despite its good reviews.

I believe it can take better pictures than this, I plan to upgrade my camera soon besides I am completely hopeless with a camera. Tried taking a pictures of my pet yesterday and it kept focusing on the background XD.

These Photos have been taken with:

Canon Powershot S70
Celestron F-ED 80mm

(You may have seen these already)

Can you please tell me what camera mount your using with the regal 100 F-ED?
Thanks in advance.
Vince
 
Can you please tell me what camera mount your using with the regal 100 F-ED?
Thanks in advance.
Vince

The Olympus camera lens I was using has a 37mm filter thread. The Baader Hyperion eyepiece has a 43mm thread built into the eyepiece. I just used a 37-43mm step up ring and screwed the eyepiece right onto the camera lens and then slipped the eyepiece/camera/lens combo right into the eyepiece holder on the scope.
 
celestron 100

The Olympus camera lens I was using has a 37mm filter thread. The Baader Hyperion eyepiece has a 43mm thread built into the eyepiece. I just used a 37-43mm step up ring and screwed the eyepiece right onto the camera lens and then slipped the eyepiece/camera/lens combo right into the eyepiece holder on the scope.

i use the same scope 100f ed with d90 t-ring attached to scope not a big fan of that set up trying to get something else together to use a nikon lens. great pictures by the wayDSC_0015.jpg here i my second try robin about 40 feet away
 
Miles away and a heavy crop with a 400asa is poor light, better than I thought for a record shot.
 

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A couple more, not very confident that I will ever get decent photos' but for record shots I am more than happy.
 

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Indigo Bunting. Celestron 100 F-ED, Baader 17mm Hyperion eyepiece, Panasonic GH1 with Olympus 14-42mm II lens. Distance around 75 feet.
 

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A few images

A few recent images with my Regal F-ED 80 and the Canon S100. All these are with the standard 20-60x EP.

--dave

BTW, the cardinal was in the shade under a pine canopy, about 30 ft., the bluebird was under overcast skys, also about 30 ft. The heron was in the sun, about 70 ft. away.
 

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Very interesting. How would you compare the Regal F-ED 80 with the Regal F-ED 100 from Sharpness and CA perspectives. Just looking at the best of the pics, I could be mistaken but the 80 pics seem a bit sharper.

Also, from a digiscoping perspective the gap is certainly closing quickly between the Swaros/Kowas etc. and much more affordable options from Celestron and more recently Zen Ray.
 
Very interesting. How would you compare the Regal F-ED 80 with the Regal F-ED 100 from Sharpness and CA perspectives. Just looking at the best of the pics, I could be mistaken but the 80 pics seem a bit sharper.

Also, from a digiscoping perspective the gap is certainly closing quickly between the Swaros/Kowas etc. and much more affordable options from Celestron and more recently Zen Ray.

I couldn't imagine there being any reason for a decrease in image qualtiy between the 80 and 100, I am probably mistaken but I basically just go by the rule, "bigger diameter, more light" If someone with more technical information comes along they should answer this question confidently.
 
Yup, but sometimes bigger does not translate to better digiscoping. For example, I noted that the new Swaro scopes that have 65, 85 and 95mm objective options have verying recommendations based on use of scope: Portability - 65; Digiscoping - 85; Light Gathering - 95. Also, a couple posts I have seen seem to indicate the 85mm is actually better matched for digiscoping than the 95mm. I also checked another forum where Astro scopes were being compared and the 80mm refractors actually produced better pictures than the 120mm but was unsure if the lens construction was the same.
 
I recently purchased a Celestron Regal M2 ED 20-80 scope - using with a Canon body and T-mount adapter. No great shots yet. And disappointed. I've been trying to search threads specifically for this scope but the search box doesn't seem to like 'm2'.

I tried the adapter with a point and shoot but none of my cameras fit properly, so I tried a JVC camcorder - fit perfectly - but couldn't get it to focus at all.

It was suggested I try using the Canon bodies (5DMIII, 60D or T4i) with a lens, but according to Celestron I cannot do that. Is there perhaps a third party adapter I can fit to it that would allow that?

Glad to see a thread on Regal scopes - I've been reading pages and pages - much over my head LOL - but getting there.

I hope the scope I have will allow other configurations besides just the camera body which isn't exactly what I'm looking for. (Also need more reach - the object I am after is pretty far away).

Thank you for your time reading this, and any help you may be able to provide...

Issy
 
A lot of people use a Baader Hyperion eyepiece, about 17mm is a useful size and I have one of these myself. Under the rubber eye cup of this eyepiece there are threads that will screw onto any photographic type step ring. All you use is a step ring to suit the eyepiece threads on one end and on the other end the step ring screws into the lens filter thread. Celestron were wrong to suggest that you can't mount a dslr+lens to the scope. An older type of camera lens with all metal construction is favourable so that you aren't hanging the camera weight off of a plastic lens. Turn off any auto focusing etc and use the camera in full manual mode.

What sort of range are wanting to work at? In my experience, once the distance becomes too great then air quality will ruin the details anyway. Getting closer is always better.

Paul.
 
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