Part Eight: Carara
Well I must admit to speeding on my way to Carara - I didn't get caught - this time!
Bowled up to pay my $10 at the wardens' station & practically ran to the start. I was at the famous Carara. And I was just about to find out why.
You round the path that skirts the edge, near enough to the road to hear the traffic, take a left & suddenly, like walking through a door, you are in the forest. The first time was not as dramatic as the second - I'll come to that later.
But still, within a couple of minutes a Black-faced antthrush was pushing aside leaves not far away, quite unperturbed. What a strange bird - with its upturned tail. Other goodies were quick in appearing, keeping me busy with notes & fieldguide - after all my homework, as before, I'd see a bird & recognise it - but couldn't remember the darn thing's name!
Dotted-winged antwrens - male & female were close, a Slaty antwren just there, a Chestnut-backed antbird coming along. I reached a stream - a natural clearing & overhead flew Vaux's swifts.
An Amazon kingfisher flew off & one of those "Jesus" lizards ran across the water away from me. Until you see it you can't quite believe it. Then a briefest of flypasts - a Red-headed barbet male - very distinctive but oh, so brief. Thankfully the "to tick, or not to tick debate" was quenched at a later date when I had great views of a female. More of that later.
Suddenly three Great tinamous were crossing the path in front of me! Then one of the fieldguide front-cover birds: Bay-headed tanager showed nicely on a vine that crossed the stream: a stunner. Two more flycatcher ticks were added to the list next.
On a suspension footbridge over a stream I caught up with other birders. A strange sight of four White ibis & a single Muscovy drake paddling about was immediately had. Hummingbirds zapped past without pausing as usual (you get used to it & learn not to try to spot them eventually: but it takes time!)
Then a sight I would undoubtably have missed if it weren't for the eagle eye of the others' guide: a perched White hawk. White birds in a green forest seems weird. On the stream edge a Louisiana waterthrush. It was pleasant just to stand on that bridge, but the birds don't come to you, so I plunged back into the jungle.
A Plain xenops was very nice, but close-ups of four incredible Violaceous trogons quickly followed by two territory-disputing male Baird's trogons had me grinning, despite the crick in my neck from constantly looking directly upward.
Orange-crowned manakins were displaying, and amongst the female onlookers was a Red-capped manakin - the only one of her species I saw, strangely.
A very strange-looking bird I recognised immediately was hunting insects around the vines on a trunk - a long tail & an even longer bill - the comical Long-billed gnatwren.
Now when Peccaries are about you smell them long before you see them - sometimes you just smell them - and this was one of those times: these wild pigs stink! But looking for them put me onto something better: Agouti. This deer-like rodent passed no further than five metres from me. Maybe just trying to avoid the stench of the Peccaries!
A Ruddy-tailed flycatcher was, I thought, going to be the last tick of that morning at Carara, but as I reached my car the one flowering bush beside the visitors' centre had a single hummer feeding off the blooms: it was Steely-vented hummingbird - (one I misidentified as Blue-tailed - a similar vagrant) - until "editing/updating" the id.
Back at Punta Leona the birds & birders kept coming. New arrivals to spot & new arrivals to compare notes with. A call as it grew dark was identified as one of the pygmy owls by two birders - & I was the first to spot it. It was the only non-tick possible: Ferruginous.
As we had dinner at the open-sided restaurant Raccoons wandered amongst the tables.
Dawn again & no let-up: the Tiger-heron & Lesser nighthawk still there; & a Rose-throated becard was showing well, but bird of the early morning was White-whiskered puffbird - close-up views.
After breakfast it was Carara: part two.
I decided to try the other track first - the one that goes along the river Tarcoles, pretty much. Straight away I had a flycatcher that wasn't in the book (not for the first time) but this one I later identified with the help of a famous birder, but that's for another day.
Green hermit showed obligingly before I reached the river viewpoint, with the Boat-billed herons roost. Black-necked stilts & Northern jacanas & a single Roseate spoonbill waded in Cayman-infested water. An American purple gallinule there was the only one of the trip.
A Green kingfisher added to the kingfisher trip list - but no tick; however - there was a something very interesting atop a tree on the opposite bank: Scissor-tailed flycatcher - which took off on a rapid sally to show off its tail, & returned.
Squirrel cuckoos ran through the trees like, well, squirrels. Lovely birds.
Next up a pair of Dusky antbirds - which I was admiring when a spectacular hummer - a Purple-crowned fairy - nearly blew my mind - what a bird - and down to less than ten feet!
But it wasn't to end there - not by a long chalk. Black-headed trogons paid a close visit then a Wedge-billed woodcreeper flew in. Loads of other stuff was arriving & leaving as a big troup of Peccaries trotted by. What a pong!
OK last go at Carara: back to the other trail, but first I tipped Carlos, the volunteer car-minder, & shook his hand - possibly the biggest hand I've ever shaken! It was like saying "Howdy" to a saloon door!
As I mentioned - you take a left & enter the forest. As I did so this time I was aware that the first ten metre-square patch held so many birds that I was rooted to the spot for twenty-five minutes!
Antbirds & Antshrikes, Rufous-breasted wrens, a Buff-throated woodcreeper less than a foot from the floor, Blue-black grosbeaks, a Plain xenops, a Sulphur-rumped flycatcher, a Philadelphia vireo, and more too quick to catch a good glimpse of. I was blown away.
Well-pleased I moved on & put up a "Mangrove" black hawk from the stream-side. A Tawny-winged woodcreeper & an Olive-striped flycatcher both needed careful attention to id. Then Yellow tyrranulet & Greenish elaenia (even more difficult) & a Southern beardless tyrranulet.
As I emerged into daylight two Macaws flew over a valediction.
That's why Carara is famous.
Photo:
Halftwo enjoys a well-earned drink.
(anyone know how to rotate it?!)