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Does the FPro Swaro EL 8x32 still have the "glare" "issue?" (1 Viewer)

Please don't snip relevant comments which affect my conclusion.
If and when I can no longer handle what I have I'll buy an 8X32 SV, or something better if it's available.

Sorry about that. But don't you think you're just a wee bit touchy here? The question surely was about glare in the Swarovision 8x32, not about what you would buy if you were to switch to an 8x32.

Hermann
 
I`v long wondered if the latitude of the user affects the glare issue with the 32mm SV, I`m between 50 and 51 deg North.

I think you're probably right here. I'm at a similar latitude as you, a bit further to the North though.

In addition I think the kind of habitat you do your birding in plays some role as well.

Hermann
 
The glare issue is a physical reality because it is observable by some. Others either do not see, report or care about it. Some see it and adapt without complaint. I see the glare in specific lighting conditions; my statement of potential ownership was indicative of my ability to adapt and, therefore, not be concerned with this artifact. The 8X32 SV is a superb optical instrument. I see many in the field.
 
Stressballer,

Another thing to watch out for with this binocular is rolling ball. You will need to handle one to find out if you experience it or not (it is a completely user dependent phenomena).

I experienced some glare with the 8x32 EL SV I owned. Side by side with other binoculars at its price point and a tier lower, I experienced glare with all of them but a slight bit more with the EL.

CG
 
I`v long wondered if the latitude of the user affects the glare issue with the 32mm SV, I`m between 50 and 51 deg North.

I'm thinking sun angle and environmental conditions at specific time of viewing which would include latitude, season, and extent or lack of cloud cover.

Here at 40 deg north, I believe I am prone to experience more glare during the winter half of the year, when the sun is lower in the sky, than the summer half of the year. But no firm conclusion yet... that will require a few years of conscious observation.

CG
 
I've never found that time of year or location has any bearing on glare - if a bin is going to show it, it will be when the sun is relatively low and bright, often made worse by scatter from branches etc.

A high sun should only show glare in the poorest of binoculars, even really close to the sun.
 
I still may go the more compact route of the 8x32 EL's. The consensus appears that glare is an issue. Worst case scenario I return them for the 8.5x42 if I find glare or anything else to be an issue.
Both my 8x32 SV and 10x50 SV's were pre-FP. I had RB with the 8x32 SV and a little RB with the 10x50 SV and the 8x32 SV showed glare and the 10x50 SV showed a little glare. I had a sticky focuser with the 10x50 SV which I sent into Swarovski for repair and it got sticky again in about 6 months. I have tried two 8x32 SV's FP at Cabellas and one had a sticky focuser and the other one did not and I tried two 10x50 SV's and both had a sticky focuser. Check for a sticky focuser when you buy an SV. My new Swarovski 8x56 SLC has a perfectly smooth focuser, no RB, no CA and no glare issues at all. My latitude is 40.4 degree's North. We do get a lot of sunny day bright days in Colorado especially at high altitudes in the mountains.
 
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Both my 8x32 SV and 10x50 SV's were pre-FP. I had RB with the 8x32 SV and a little RB with the 10x50 SV and the 8x32 SV showed glare and the 10x50 SV showed a little glare. I had a sticky focuser with the 10x50 SV which I sent into Swarovski for repair and it got sticky again in about 6 months. I have tried two 8x32 SV's FP at Cabellas and one had a sticky focuser and the other one did not and I tried two 10x50 SV's and both had a sticky focuser. Check for a sticky focuser when you buy an SV. My new Swarovski 8x56 SLC has a perfectly smooth focuser, no RB, no CA and no glare issues at all. My latitude is 40.4 degree's North. We do get a lot of sunny day bright days in Colorado especially at high altitudes in the mountains.

44 degrees here in Minnesota. What are key differences between EL and SLC? I’m too novice to know what riling ball would look like.
 
Supposedly the field pros have field flattening technology to eliminate rolling ball effect and some type of coating to eliminate glare.
 
44 degrees here in Minnesota. What are key differences between EL and SLC? I’m too novice to know what riling ball would look like.
These two reviews talk about the differences between the SLC and the EL. THE EL is more prone to RB, glare and sticky focuser"s IME. I think the SLC is really a bargain at it's price point.

"A valid question that you may well be asking is whether the more expensive EL model is worth the extra cost. I’ve compared these SLCs with the ELs throughout this review, but a summary of their relative strengths and weaknesses follows:
· The ELs are longer and heavier: these SLCs are particularly small and light for a 10x42.
· The ELs have a more upmarket look with their exposed metal in the bridge and different armour, but basic build quality –optical and mechanical – is much the same.
· I found the open-bridge design of the ELs a bit easier to hold.
· The ELs have a couple of millimetres more eye relief (not the four millimetres the brochure suggests) that makes them a little more comfortable with glasses.
· The focuser action is very similar, but the ELs’ focuser is much faster, making it easier to focus onto birds on the wing.
· The centre-field view is very similar, but the ELs have a slightly flatter, brighter, deeper field of view.
· The ELs’ flatter field isn’t that noticeable during the day, but makes them nicer for astronomy.
· In theory, the ELs are about £700 more expensive, but discounts often reduce that gap to £400-500."


Steve explains rolling ball or globe effect here.
"Rolling ball happens when you are panning a binocular across the scenery. Magnification magnifies movement as well as everything else. What happens with rolling ball is that the magnification of the binocular magnifies the movement of the image on one side as new scenery comes into view as well as magnifies the movement on the other side as scenery leaves the field of view. It makes the edges of the view look like the image is rolling along like a ball, hence the name. It can even look like the edges are rolling into the center of the field too. Sometimes it is dramatic, and other times pretty subtle, even unnoticeable. The overall effect is somewhat like motion sickness.
Manufacturers typically design in some pincushion distortion (the fuzziness usually seen at the edge of the view everybody complains about) to prevent the rolling ball effect. The distortion cloaks the movement magnification at the edge and, for most people anyway, cancels out rolling ball. What Swarovski evidently decided to do was to finally offer a truly flat field that really is sharp to the edges, as many people were crying long and loud for. Some people have enough distortion built into their own eyesight to counter the rolling ball. Those folks absolutely love their Swarovision. For those like me, who it bothers, they upgraded the SLC series from the SLCneu to the SLC-HD. This has some pincushion built in, so the rolling ball is much less of an issue with the SLC-HD. It is not as perfectly flat and edge sharp as the Swarovision, but sometimes even spending as much money as you should logically have to spend on a binocular, you still have to accept a compromise or two.
The field flattener effect on the Swarovision is largely accomplished with a more expensive and complicated eye piece design. This is not needed in the SLC-HD philosophy, so the eye pieces are less complicated and less expensive, and the SLC-HD is less money than the Swarovision.
HD or ED glass really has nothing to do with rolling ball. Those types of glass are useful in eye pieces for field flattteners and in objectives to improve contrast and help control color fringing in the image. Lots of people are really bothered by this, some so much so that they need very expensive glass that excells at controlling color fringing. That is what the glass types do.
Your older Swaros have some pincushion, which is maybe why you don't see it there. This is kind of why I was cautioning you in another post not to spend a whole lot of time worrying about looking for edge sharpness. Edge distortion is not necessarily a flaw, it is designed in for a purpose. Yes, it can be overdone. Don't spend more than a minute to evaluate it, then forget about it. People can inadvertently sensitize themselves to lots of various flaws. Sometimes your eyes will eventually accomodate the rolling ball effect, and sometimes not.
Swarovision is not the only binocular to show this. Another one you see it mentioned is the Nikon LX series of glass (mentioned by Frank above), also designed with sharp edges. A lot of whether or not people will be bothered by certain effects can only be answered by the eye of whoever is looking through the binocular. This is why there can never be a perfect binocular for everybody and there can never be a definite, absolute ranking of all binoculars from best to worst."

http://scopeviews.co.uk/Swaro10x42SLCHD.htm
http://scopeviews.co.uk/Swaro10x42EL.htm
 
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IMO a considerable amount of focusser complaints regarding the EL come down to expectations rather than any real problems in the mechanism. And the reason for the tension difference is the spring that Swarovski puts in there to eliminate diopter creep, which competitors seem to suffer with when using a similar integrated focus diopter wheel system.

However I`v not tried any FP model that did not have a buttery smooth focus wheel, both my SV and new CL are wonderful.

I`d hate to imply anything but admiration for the 8x32SV which is simply the finest 8x32 ever made for Birding IMHO, it behaves more like an 8x40, and apart from the glare issue that afflicted my viewing I`d still have one.
 
Supposedly the field pros have field flattening technology to eliminate rolling ball effect and some type of coating to eliminate glare.
Greetings...
Actually, the "flat field" is responsible for the so-called "rolling ball effect". And, poor internal light baffling can and does induce glare. Coatings address other optical design concerns.

The Swarovski field pros are very popular. We have three SV's (optically the same as the FP's) and not one of them is problematic. We enjoy the flat field, see no rolling balls and have never been hindered by glare. As a repeat customer either I'm a slow learner or a happy camper. I choose the latter.

Happy Easter to those who celebrate the holiday.
 
I bought a pre FP version of the 8x32SV with intentions of taking it to Africa a couple of years ago. The stray light control (lack of) was bad enough I returned them. The Mojave 8x32 handled it much better.

X2. Though the SV is a better view(when the glare isn't ruining the image) I sent it back in favor of the Mojave @ 1/10th the price. For my $$ I just couldn't accept that much glare.
 
IMO a considerable amount of focusser complaints regarding the EL come down to expectations rather than any real problems in the mechanism. And the reason for the tension difference is the spring that Swarovski puts in there to eliminate diopter creep, which competitors seem to suffer with when using a similar integrated focus diopter wheel system.

However I`v not tried any FP model that did not have a buttery smooth focus wheel, both my SV and new CL are wonderful.

I`d hate to imply anything but admiration for the 8x32SV which is simply the finest 8x32 ever made for Birding IMHO, it behaves more like an 8x40, and apart from the glare issue that afflicted my viewing I`d still have one.

Of the EL 's I've handled, the focus problems were real - two older EL's were nearly seized solid and several SV's had very gritty, jittery - start / stop - type focus that made using the bin frustrating. My sample size is small - maybe 10 total, but more than half had some sort of problem.
 
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Just FYI, no issues with 2007 vintage 8.5x42 EL...

will probably upgrade to the latest-greatest Zeiss Victory SF 8x42, with a 10x50 SLC being a serious contender.
 
To get back to the original question, I've been using the 8x32 SV for about a week (it's all I have with me) and I can't even get it to act up in terms of glare, and I tried, aiming it near the sun, etc. Mind you, I've seen the crescent glare in the past so I know it can be there, but on this trip, nadda.

Conditions include two days of bright blue skies (and I swiveled it around the sun just to see--nothin'), bright overcast skies over a fresh snowfall, looking east in the morning over water, directly overhead at circling Black Vultures (I live north of their usual range so it's nice to see them here).

My wife usually uses the 8x32 so it's been a while since I used it extensively. I can only conclude that (for me, YMMV!) glare isn't much of a problem. This example dates to 2012 BTW.
 
Very bright conditions, like viewing close to the sun, are not as prone to show glare as dimmer conditions since the eye's pupil is so small in bright light that reflections at the edge of a 4mm exit pupil may not enter the eye even if they're present in the binocular. I found the glare to be most obvious in the 8x32 SV when viewing dark areas beneath a bright sky when the eye may be open to 4mm or more. Even then, an inadvertently de-centered eye may mask the glare by causing the bottom of the prism aperture to cover the reflections at the bottom of the objective edge.
 
I found the veiling glare was worst on overcast but bright days, it was much less of a problem with blue skies and sunshine.
 
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