Morocco - Agadir Area (1 Viewer)

Getting There

Holiday booked through Thomas Cook flying out of Manchester to the resort of Agadir on the 29th September for 14 days returning 13th October. Transfer to resort was by coach and took about 30 minutes. We stayed at the 4 star Iberostar Founty Beach Hotel on an all inclusive package. The hotel is well appointed and modern with high standards of service, excellent food, and good facilities. It is located at the southern quiet end of the resort and backs onto the wonderful beach.



Weather

Some early mornings were cloudy but this soon cleared, it was generally hot and sunny with average temperatures in the mid to high 20’s on the coast (hotter inland), on some afternoons patchy sea fog drifted onshore. Winds were mainly light and predominantly easterly, the first few days wind was f3/4 so a good sea was running. We had no rain; evenings were pleasantly warm and it was sometimes necessary to use the room air conditioning at night.



Car Hire

Abid Rentacar as used by Thomas Cook though we negotiated our own deal (full insurance and unlimited mileage) saving 30% on our holiday representatives quoted figure, total cost of hire for 10 days worked out at £215 GBP. (low season) The car was a 3 month old VW Gol (Brazilian built model not sold in Europe I’m told!) a Polo sized 5 door hatchback with AC and surprisingly good ground clearance. We used this same company on our visit in March and were well pleased with the service. It did not disappoint on this visit, a slow puncture was dealt with quickly when we couldn’t wait/call back a new wheel was produced from another car and no charge was made for the repair. Contact details at end of report.



(For those not wishing to drive they provide a driver for £12.00 GBP per day)



We had purchased road maps on our March visit which were OK for major routes (small scale) but often vague and inaccurate, different place spellings and omissions also add to the confusion/fun!



Driving

Driving in Morocco will not suit all, it can be manic in the city and larger towns, leaving the resort and turning right travelling toward and through Inezgane is about a bad as it gets. Care needs to be taken as lane discipline is almost non existent, cars will pull out from minor roads or verges, overtake on blind summits, bends or whenever often cutting in very closely, (taxi drivers are the worst so no surprise’s there!). It all seems to be taken for granted and no offence or aggression was experienced or witnessed. However once clear the roads become quieter and off the beaten track there can be almost no traffic.



Unexpected Police road-checks on major routes especially south are common and little signing or warning is given. On our visit in March we did on occasion drive after dark but I would not recommend it, mopeds with no lights, vehicles with lighting faults and in rural areas donkey carts and pedestrians are real hazards.



Since visiting earlier in year the bypass system leaving the resort is now completed, good clear signing makes it very easy to navigate thus avoiding the overcrowded and difficult to negotiate sprawling outskirt towns the likes of Inezgane. (From Agadir we found following signs for the airport then watching overhead signs, lane markings and roundabout signs the easiest method) However going the coastal route north to Cape Rhir, Tamri and beyond means negotiating downtown Agadir with its confusing signs, so I would suggest waiting a day or two to become accustomed to driving conditions.



Roads are well maintained, major roads to Marrakech and south to Tiznit are wide, long straight stretches make for safe easy overtaking and rapid progress There is a newish dual carriageway from Agadir to Taroudant which allows one to cover the distance very quickly though flocks of sheep and goats grazing the unfenced verges and sometimes the central reservation is disconcerting. On other routes there is very little dual carriageway and extra time needs to be allowed when travelling any distance. Minor roads are also well maintained but often narrow and in some cases barely two vehicle widths, minor roads in rural areas are single track. Roundabouts on major roads need caution as on some one has to give way to traffic approaching it from the left.



Fuel is almost half the UK price, not all petrol stations take credit cards (we always used cash) and once clear of main towns they can be few and far between.



There is a huge western style hypermarket called Marjane at the south end of the resort easily reached by minor roads near the Intourist Hotel, it’s well signed and has a big petrol station that takes credit cards. The hypermarket sells everything and being near the route out of the resort is very convenient for picnic essentials, water etc.



Sites/Locations Visited

Site guides used were “Finding Birds in Southern Morocco “Dave Gosney 1996 (now showing its age) and “A Birdwatchers Guide to Morocco” by Patrick & Fedora Bergier 2003 the latter being the most useful.



This was not a dawn till dusk full on birding holiday, my wife is not a birder though has an interest so most sites visited were within a two hour drive of the resort, exceptions being touring the Anti Atlas and the southern foothills of the High Atlas. Leisurely birding would best describe our trips, the major sites were visited and enjoyed finding our own most of which are detailed below.



April would be the month of choice for a future visit.



North of Agadir (Dates visited)



Taghazoute area (2/10 & 7/10)

Sandy coves and beaches northwards many easily scanned from road some holding sizeable resting/roosting flocks of Gulls and groups of Terns. 100+ Audoiuns Gulls on some we checked out along with commoner species and occasional small parties of Lesser-crested Terns. Gannets offshore.



Cape Rhir (2/10 & 7/10)

Quiet when we visited with just a few Gannets offshore.



Tamri Estuary (2/10 and 7/10)

Weekday visits are best as the beach is popular with surfers at weekends causing disturbance to the birds at estuary mouth. Approaching estuary the road curves to the right around headland above the bay immediately on the left as road starts to straighten is a short length of the old road overlooking the river mouth which is a good place to park and scan from. Bald Ibis tend to rest on the sand bar between sea and estuary mouth, we found mornings before 11.00hrs best time to see them (this also held true on our March visit) best count was 62 on 7/10. Ruddy Shelduck, Great Flamingoes, Waders, Egrets & Herons, Osprey, Common Raven to name but a few with big groups of Gulls and Terns resting on the beach including sizeable gatherings of Audouins Gulls, Lesser-crested Terns, occasional Caspian etc.



Ihoud, Ait ou Balla & Prince Moulay Abdellah Barrage Area’s (South-western foothills of High Atlas) (2/10 & 7/10)

Continuing on northwards past Tamri on the N1 road which climbs steeply (hairpins) as it leaves the coast, the road levels and passes through a small village, the barrage is signposted off to the right. Road is relatively new and barrage is still under construction, it’s a large water area and it is possible to get to it on west side along the old original road which ends abruptly at waters edge. Edges seem quite shallow and if reed growth becomes established area could have birding potential. Road continues NW through hills with Olive & Argan plantations eventually looping back onto the main N1 road. Highlights included Crested & Thekla Larks so able to compare, 3 Honey Buzzards, Black-shouldered Kite (only records) Peregrine and close views of 2 Brown-necked Raven plus all the commoner stuff. This is a nice scenic area of varied habitats and could be worth visiting in April.



Northeast of Agadir (9/10)



Abdelmoumem Barrage (Bge Tanzourt)

Large barrage viewed from route N8 to Marrakech approx 65 kms from Agadir. When we visited the turn off (old road) to Dam and viewpoint was closed because of construction work. Continuing on the main road another 8 kms and on right side just past the Bigoudine turn off is a gravelled area, from this an un-metalled road leads a short distance to remains of what was the main road before barrage constructed. This road travels southwards a short distance and widens into a large gravelled area affording an elevated viewpoint over the north end of the barrage. Water level low on our visit and few birds, Moussiers Redstart, Ruddy Shelduck, SG. Shrikes, Raven’s and small parties of hirundines etc. Worthwhile revisiting March/April, the habitat, patches of reeds, bushes and a small stream will be attractive for birds.







Bigoudine to Tiqqui

Travelling north past the barrage is a road sign on the left for Bigoudine, an information board describes the route and the area. It’s a spectacular drive into the SW slopes of the High Atlas, very scenic with little mainly local traffic; old traditional villages cling to hill sides and the road climbs steeply in places through a variety of habitats with conifer (Cedar) woodlands above the village of Tiqqui. Species seen, Black, White-crowned Black & Black-eared Wheatears, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock, Cirl & House Buntings, SG Shrikes, Kestrel and Lesser Kestrel, Wren, Crested & Thekla Lark to name a few.



Tiqqui to Imouzzer

Shortly after leaving Tiqqui 200 metres past the road off to the right (signed Tadrort & Prince Abdullah Barrage) we stopped for a pair of Barbary Partridges crossing in front of us. We spent an hour here next to a conifer wood with Crossbills singing on wires and recorded Jay, Coal Tit, Wren, Cirl, House & Corn Bunting, Thekla Lark, Hobby, SG Shrike etc.



Imouzzer to Oulman

Breathtaking views as road passes down through the beautiful valley of Taghrat Ankrim (often referred to as Paradise Valley), stopping anywhere along this route can be rewarding. Rock, House, Corn & Cirl Buntings, Blue Rock Thrush and Black Wheatears common, Sparrowhawk, Kestrel etc (Golden Eagle & Peregrine recorded here in March)



For anyone wishing to tour and see the real beauty of the region this loop which returns to the main N1 road just to North of Agadir is highly recommended. We easily managed it in a day, from the resort to the Bigoudine junction takes just over an hour and there is very little traffic on the minor roads. (Doing it again I wouldn’t bother stopping at the barrage which would give more time to take in and explore the mountain passes.)



East of Agadir (5/10)



Near Taroudant

Travelling west from Taroudant on the 7018 (3kms approx) there is a very arid area and a road bridge over a small river, shortly after this on the left is a small lane which passes citrus plantations then opens out into a small valley which is worth a look. In March we had displaying Black-shouldered Kites Montague’s Harriers plus a Tawny Eagle and Black Kite overhead, Quail, BC Tchagras, Shrikes etc. Though quieter this visit Tchagras present, a group of 5 Fulvous Babblers and the only Hoopoe of the trip plus all the commoner species.



Returning along the 7018 toward Agadir a road junction on the right is signed to a small barrage (name?) in hills above Boulbaz. The road passes through the north of the fertile Sous valley and as it climbs into the hills there are wonderful views southwards across the plain of the Sous. The tarmac ends at barrage, various wheatear species abound, Blue Rock Thrush and other upland species are present. The road looks down onto the barrage so it is easily scanned. At its north end where its feeder river enters there is a small area of reeds and cultivated plots. Time did not allow us to investigate these but they could be attractive to birds. We spoke with the Dam manager and he pointed out birds in our field guide he claimed he’d seen in the area, Peregrine, Harriers, and BS Kite etc. We had distant views of a small eagle, SG Shrikes, Kestrel, Rock Dove, Green Sandpiper, White & Grey Wagtail present along with commoner birds.



Southeast of Agadir (Central Anti Atlas) (8/10)



This area first visited 4/10/06 on an organised coach tour and its potential was readily apparent.



Tlata Ouanasse & Barrage

Village not shown on my maps so route is Agadir to Inezgane follow signs to Biougra then up into hills on the S-509 following signs for Tafraoute. Distance from resort to barrage 66 kms, good roads though narrow once into hills allow 11/4 to 11/2 hours for the journey. Larks, Wheatears and Shrikes, Booted Eagle, Osprey, Coots, Heron, Egrets & Spoonbill. Moussiers & Black Redstart a Black Tern perched on the crown of a submerged Fig tree. Best bird however was an adult Barbary Falcon which came down to the waters edge to drink and bathe where it was joined by a juvenile.



Madao and Surrounds

Continuing southwards on the S-509 it climbs through high mountain passes and the views become stunning with landscapes of pink granite and vast rock formations the road however is narrow slow and winding. Coming down off the mountains it passes the spectacular fortified village of Tioulet then into grasslands with wheatears, chats, shrikes and hirundines. It is 55 kms from the barrage (111 kms from resort) to the oasis town of Madao the road is slow so allow 11/2 to 2 hours. It’s quite striking coming down into greenery and palms after the arid mountains and grasslands. On the right just before Madao is a rock face and a traditional village, several hundred Rock Doves were present along with Lesser Kestrel, Blue Rock Thrush, 4 species of Wheatear including Desert, Tawny Pipit and a single Long-legged Buzzard overhead a sturdy falcon glimpsed briefly (Lanner?). There is a small café in Madao with toilets, drinking coffee while watching Moussiers Redstart and a BC Tchagra was a treat. Walking around village we had many passerines in trees and bushes, Subalpine Warbler, Spanish Sparrow, Spotless Starling, Pied & Spotted Flycatchers plus the commoner species and a lot of hirundines. This region should be very rewarding in April.



The quickest route back to the resort is by turning around and retracing the drive. Alternatively carry on to Tafroute and the amazing rock formations and lunar landscape around Agard Oudad, from there follow signs to Tiznit. Again it is a slow and winding road till it leaves the mountains making for a long and tiring drive; Agadir is 95 kms along the fast coastal road from Tiznit.



South of Agadir



Mouth of the Oued Sous (3/10 & 11/10)

Much has been written about this site and most still holds true. The Royal Palace is located at the mouth on the north side and when the King is in residence there are restrictions on both vehicle and walking access. Police/Army Quad bike patrols enforce this stopping anyone walking to the mouth and turn cars or persons back before reaching the arch into the National Park. When he is not there are few restrictions, we drove through the arch for several hundred metres parking up under the trees just before the manned barrier (Police & Army). You can then follow the footpaths down to the raised viewing platform beside the river and on to the mouth where big groups of gulls and terns gather. Whenever we visited locals were out at low tide digging for shellfish and fishing so there is some disturbance.



Mouth of the Oued Massa (6/10 & 10/10)

Again this area is well documented in the site guides so I offer only a few suggestions. Turn off the main road at small junction signed “Sidi Rbat (51 kms from Agadir) which saves navigating the length of Massa village. Turn right at the t-junction and it’s a short dive uphill ignoring the track signed to Sidi Rbat, as the tarmac ends and track starts on the left is an empty building set amongst tree’s (Little Owl site) you will probably be stopped here by Massa Park Warden/s offering guided tours, they may infer it is necessary and charge is per head. It is not a requirement to take one. Continuing along track proceed with caution (exposed rocks), once past this short section the reserve opens out in front of you and it is a good vantage point. The track continues downhill and levels out as it does on the left is a large flat dry earth area close to the river. It’s worth stopping here and walking along river a short distance either way Glossy Ibis, Purple Heron (Squacco in spring/summer) waders and warblers raptors included BW Kite (march visit) BC Tchagra, Bonellis Eagle.



Continuing on the track is sandy in places so care is needed; the reserve is at end of the village (Laughing Dove) through an arched entrance with a paved parking area immediately to the right shaded by trees. Entrance manned by Park Wardens and again they will offer guided tours and tell you what’s about, one spoke excellent English and his local knowledge and that of the birds and natural history was excellent. He offered to take us birding away from usual areas half or full day and for anyone interested his contact details are at end of the report.



The main path to the estuary mouth is level and easy going with excellent vantage points, an open fronted shelter with seating makes a good picnic stop after 20 – 30 minutes walking. April is the best month to visit. (A Bridled Tern resting on sand bar with Audouins Gulls and LC Terns on 6/10 was a highlight)



Barrage Youssef Ben Tachfine (10/10)

Located south and inland of Massa for anyone wishing to tour it’s worth a visit. (Barrage is 82 kms from resort) The road actually goes over the dam and there is a small parking area. Ospreys, Blue Rock Thrush, Moussiers Redstart, Rock Dove, Black Wheatear, Cirl Bunting present and a lot of Cormorants. The road climbs and there is a viewing platform giving spectacular views across the dam and surrounding almost semi desert countryside. We continued on this minor road almost to Tiznit before rejoining main P 30 road and returning north. Northern Wheatears were everywhere a Desert Wheatear also seen, Shrikes, Spotless Starlings, Buntings and larks well represented.










Contact Details





Anyone requiring further information feel free to PM or E-mail me bearing in mind I work away from home 4 weeks at a time with no internet access so obviously may not be able to reply by return.

Stewart
thanks for such a comprehensive report, I was in Tanger working at the same time. Only Yellow legged and cattle egret for me. Did you have any problems (travel and eating wise) due to ramadan?
ps agree about the mad driving. kamikaze!

No real problems with Ramadan Colin, we made an effort not to picnic to openly. In hotel there was a notice explaining all and instead of dinner at 18.30hrs it was at 19.00hrs so no hardship. Bar staff were wonderful they would ask if you wanted an extra drink as there wouldnt be anyone avaliable to serve for 20 mins or so.

Stewart

yes found it exactly the same. an hour or so when everyone was eating then it all returned to normal. cheers Stewart

Was there a few years ago in Febuary, found the hill overlooking Agadir itself excellent. Usual stuff like Moussiers Redstart, Thekla Lark, Barbary Partridge etc. Had Barbary Falcon here too.

Also went to an area to the south, was it the Hula Reserve. ..? Excellent there too, Audoins 200 plus, L C Terns, Tawny Eagle, Blask Shouldered Kite, Little Owl, Greater Flamimgo, 16 Glossy Ibis off the top of my head...

Excellent report Stewart, thanks.