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Is the 8x30 the new 8x32? (1 Viewer)

Lee,

If you wear glasses while using the new CL 8x30B you won't be able to take advantage of this "optical box" when you use it. With the eye cups in the closed position your eye glasses determine the position where your eyes are placed. I think that Vespobuteo does not like the design of the eye cups because they keep his glasses too far away from the oculars.

If the eye cups had intermediate locking positions one might be able to adjust the eye placement somewhat but not as efficiently as people who do not wear eye glasses can using the "optical box."

Bob

Bob, shouldn't one's eyes arrive at +/- the same place (ie the EP position) whether your naked eyes are simply positioned by the extended eyecups or this extension being achieved by virtue of spectacles resting on the closed eyecups? I imagine the light box to be a beam light as wide as the exit pupil and a moderate length of this (the box) being where your eyes are delivered, irrespective of wearing or not wearing glasses. This being so, isn't the light box supposed to allow greater lee-way in positioning whether you do or don't wear spectacles?

Lee
 
...The eye cups are too deep, stealing too much of the eye relief with glasses...
Eye cups should be designed as the ones on the current Swaro EL Rangefinder bins, or Leica NV, more shallow...

https://www.thehuntersbag.com/wp-co...k like the ones on the old EL (pre-SV). --AP
 
Bob, shouldn't one's eyes arrive at +/- the same place (ie the EP position) whether your naked eyes are simply positioned by the extended eyecups or this extension being achieved by virtue of spectacles resting on the closed eyecups? I imagine the light box to be a beam light as wide as the exit pupil and a moderate length of this (the box) being where your eyes are delivered, irrespective of wearing or not wearing glasses. This being so, isn't the light box supposed to allow greater lee-way in positioning whether you do or don't wear spectacles?

Lee

Lee,

I don't wear spectacles (except when I use sun glasses). I must extend the eye cups fully in order in order to keep from getting blackouts with every binocular I have used. I find a place on my brow ridge just under my eye brows to brace the binocular where I do not get black outs. If I move much off that place I will get black outs. It becomes instinctive with use.

But with my CL 8x30 B I can also move the binocular further back into my eye sockets and still not get blackouts. I can't do this with any other binocular I own except a Pentax 9x32 clone of the Sightron 8x32, a binocular I have never tried.

If I am wearing glasses I still must brace the top of the eye cups on the binocular up against the glasses to use it. Naturally, because of this, I can't move it any closer to my eyes.

Bob
 
Lee,

I don't wear spectacles (except when I use sun glasses). I must extend the eye cups fully in order in order to keep from getting blackouts with every binocular I have used. I find a place on my brow ridge just under my eye brows to brace the binocular where I do not get black outs. If I move much off that place I will get black outs. It becomes instinctive with use.

But with my CL 8x30 B I can also move the binocular further back into my eye sockets and still not get blackouts. I can't do this with any other binocular I own except a Pentax 9x32 clone of the Sightron 8x32, a binocular I have never tried.

If I am wearing glasses I still must brace the top of the eye cups on the binocular up against the glasses to use it. Naturally, because of this, I can't move it any closer to my eyes.

Bob

OK Bob I understand that now. In normal use I don't have my spectacles pushed up to the very top of my nose, flat against my face. They are usually a very short distance down my nose and when I lift up my binos I can either rest them against my glasses (so the glasses don't move) or I can press a bit harder against my glasses with the binos and they will then move a couple of millimetres up my nose, or I can push firmly with the bins and my glasses go right up to the top of my nose and cannot go any further. This means that the distance between my eyes and the binos is adjustable in a modest way, even though I am wearing glasses.

For binos that have a high ER and too-short eyecups I can move my spectacles down my nose a couple of millimetres and then just rest the binos against my glasses and this can work for trying the binos out. It isn't a viable solution for field use though as the glasses get pushed back to their normal position rather easily.

Lee
 
With close fitting glasses I found I could see the CL's whole field of view but with little room to spare, or so it felt. Perhaps that with less close fitting glasses I would still have been able to see the whole field because of the 'box', but I did not try that.

For eye-relief these felt like a Leica Ultravid 8x32 (13.3 mm) or a Nikon 8x30 E2 (13.8 mm).

George
 
With close fitting glasses I found I could see the CL's whole field of view but with little room to spare, or so it felt. Perhaps that with less close fitting glasses I would still have been able to see the whole field because of the 'box', but I did not try that.

For eye-relief these felt like a Leica Ultravid 8x32 (13.3 mm) or a Nikon 8x30 E2 (13.8 mm).

George
Really! The CL has an eye relief of 16mm. I am surprised you found the eye relief felt that short.
 
Really! The CL has an eye relief of 16mm. I am surprised you found the eye relief felt that short.

Yes, but the ocular lens is recessed a few mm from the rim of the eyecup. Jan Meijerink measured the effective eye-relief at 13 mm: http://www.tvwg.nl/testrapporten/kijkers/swarovski-CL-Companion-8x30_10x30.shtml

However, it could be the 'light box' really works and that with less close fitting glasses I would have been able to see the whole field of view too. I didn't try. It would be interesting if someone who ownes the new CL could test this.

George
 
And while you're at it, could you test the following:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHMintsw7HM

At 1.08 in the video you see some kids using the CL the other way around, looking into the objectives. The next shot is a macro shot of a grasshopper. Is it possible to use the CL this way to get very close range views? I remember a Zeiss 8x20/10x25 could do this and there was a special stand to convert the bins into a macro-scope.
 
And while you're at it, could you test the following:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHMintsw7HM

At 1.08 in the video you see some kids using the CL the other way around, looking into the objectives. The next shot is a macro shot of a grasshopper. Is it possible to use the CL this way to get very close range views? I remember a Zeiss 8x20/10x25 could do this and there was a special stand to convert the bins into a macro-scope.
I saw that video also. I will have to try it.
 
And while you're at it, could you test the following:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHMintsw7HM

At 1.08 in the video you see some kids using the CL the other way around, looking into the objectives. The next shot is a macro shot of a grasshopper. Is it possible to use the CL this way to get very close range views? I remember a Zeiss 8x20/10x25 could do this and there was a special stand to convert the bins into a macro-scope.

Any binocular can be used to do this. I do it all the time.

--AP
 
And while you're at it, could you test the following:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHMintsw7HM

At 1.08 in the video you see some kids using the CL the other way around, looking into the objectives. The next shot is a macro shot of a grasshopper. Is it possible to use the CL this way to get very close range views? I remember a Zeiss 8x20/10x25 could do this and there was a special stand to convert the bins into a macro-scope.

The stand used a different principle. It consisted of a microscope objective and beam splitter (or maybe two closely spaced objectives - I never saw one). You placed the binoculars on top with the objectives down and looked through eyepieces in the normal way.
 

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The stand used a different principle. It consisted of a microscope objective and beam splitter (or maybe two closely spaced objectives - I never saw one). You placed the binoculars on top with the objectives down and looked through eyepieces in the normal way.
That is really cool. Where do you get those at?
 
Henry, post 56,
At the most recent meeting of the Binocular History Society last October in Munich I had the pleasure to lecture about Multifunctional binoculars/telescopes in history. The microscope stand for the Zeiss pockets you show in your post was one of the items in the lecture. I have a stand like that and it works fine. The powerpoint of the lecture is on the WEB-site of House of Outdoor in case you might be interested. It contains a fair bit of information of the instrument and its possibilities (photographs, copies of flyers etc.).
Gijs van Ginkel
 
Any binocular can be used to do this. I do it all the time.

--AP

Could you please explain how to do this? I have been peering down the objective side of my Leica Ultravid 8x32 for the last few minutes, but the only thing I see is a small far off image, not any kind of macro viewing.

Thanks,


George
 
Could you please explain how to do this? I have been peering down the objective side of my Leica Ultravid 8x32 for the last few minutes, but the only thing I see is a small far off image, not any kind of macro viewing.

Thanks,


George

Put whatever you want to see up close right next to the ocular lens of whichever side of the bin you are looking through.

--AP
 
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