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Lake Kerkini on Ice - 2-day winter break in Northern Greece (1 Viewer)

wolfbirder

Well-known member
LOGISTICS

I have always wanted to go to Lake Kerkini, renowned for huge numbers of wintering wildfowl, for its Dalmation Pelicans, geese, herons, Pygmy Cormorants (and Cormorants), Woodpeckers, and wintering eagles including up to 30 Greater Spotted and occasional Eastern Imperial and White-tailed. The prospects were mouth-watering, and its even better in Spring. There is a but however...............

COSTS

I booked cheap Ryan Air flights from Stansted, going out on the afternoon of 17th January, and returning on the evening of 19th January. Outward flight (without any hold luggage) cost £14.99, and return flight cost £16.99. In my carry-on bag I took change of clothes (underwear / socks/ short/ trousers), mini-scope and binoculars. Additional costs included £35 petrol from home to Stansted, £37 car parking, £56 car hire for a Fiat Panda with Thrifty Cars via Rental Cars, but they actually use a Hertz vehicle, £40 to refill the petrol tank when I handed it in, and £80 for two nights accommodation, one by Thessalonika Airport (£35), and a 2nd night at Lake Kerkini's northern end at the panoramic Villa Belles (£45)(both booked on Booking.com) - a total cost of everything altogether of about £300. I would always take out cheese and ham roles and fruit at breakfast, for my dinner. I ate a lovely meal in the hotel on the 2nd night, enjoying buffalo burger, rice with mushrooms, and a greek salad washed down by 2 beers - for 17 euros.

TRAFFIC AND ROADWORKS NIGHTMARES

With such short trips, it is imperative that things run smoothly and on time. Both flights were punctual, and the hotel near Thessoloniki Airport on my 1st night after arrival in Greece was ideal. But the following morning, I hit the road at 8am, an ungodly early hour for this lazy birder, with the hope of arriving at Lake Kerkini about 1.5 hours later. Thessaloniki has a series of interconnecting motorways, & the route had been pre-studied and involved circumnavigating Thessaloniki's sprawl by connecting from the airport onto the motorway that in essence was a ring-road (and marked as such), and then linking onto Route 25 dual carriageway 50-60 miles to the Kerkini area. There are occasional brown 'Lake Kerkini' signs as you get near to it, but the majority of signs are in Greek, as you might well expect.

But 100 metres short of the connection to the motorway that was the Thessaliniki ring road, a police car blocked the turn-off, due to am inicdent ahead, and after sitting stuck in traffic for an hour, it was only partially reopened with only lorries being allowed onto it. All cars were forced to carry on using the carriageway into central Thessaloniki. To draw parallels, it would be like closing the M6 and sending all the traffic into central Birmingham. 3 hours later I somehow managed to navigate a route out of the now chronically congested and crawling city, onto route 25, eventually arriving Lake Kerkini at 12 noon-ish.

This wasn't to be my only nightmare on the roads! After arriving home at 11.10pm on 19th ( last night), I headed off from Stansted, but just north of Cambridge (and just before Cambridge Services where I needed to refill petrol), the road ahead was closed at night for 19 days - yes the A14 was my obvious way back to Wolverhampton. I couldn't access the petrol station at the services 2 miles ahead, therefore. The diversions took people way out of the way on rural roads with petrol stations that would be closed at such an hour, and running on one-fifth full petrol, I decided I had no option but to head back to Stansted (30 miles) and get petrol there, which I did at a ridiculous £1.38 per litre. From there I re-planned to link up a little further southward, head westward a short distance on the M25 and link up to the M1 where at last I could head northward. Just before the M1 junction however, a sign warned that the M1 was also closed between two junctions, so I drove further westward still, and joined the M40 where I got back to Wolverhampton at 5am, rather than the anticipated 2.30am. My phone was dead and I couldn't alert my wife that I was running later than anticipated. So, two stress-filled days driving! Lesson learnt - check night closures in advance!

THE BIRDING

I was soon to discover that Lake Kerkini was experiencing a very cold winter, with at least half the lake totally frozen over. Hence the numbers of wildfowl and attentive raptors was massively reduced, with many going to the warmer climes of the Evros Delta. Disappointing!

Approaching Lake Kerkini, hundreds of Corn Buntings and House Sparrows were on overhead wires or in bushes, and a few Grey Herons and Great White Egrets were seen.

At the warmer southern end of Lake Kerkini, at the village of Lithotopos I pulled over to take my first look at the southern corner - a feeding frenzy was going on, with around 100 Dalmation Pelicans, 50 Coot, Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gulls, hundreds of Cormorants including a few eastern-race birds, 20 Pygmy Cormorants - quite a spectacle! A Green Woodpecker was seen well close by. I circumnavigated Lake Kerkini via the western perimeter road, a tarmac road partially covered with stretches of white snow, so it was necessary to drive with great caution in sections, in 2nd-gear. Smaller numbers of wildfowl, mainly Pochard, were seen as I drove round through the village of Kerkini, and around the northern end, where I checked out Mandraki but the snow-cap extended to this point as well, so there was nothing to see.

At this time of year, I had planned to do most of my birding along the north-eastern corner, as that was where the North-Eastern Embankment track provided views across to the so-called 'flooded forest' - home of most raptors. Nearby, Vyroneia (sometimes called Vironia) was the haunt of many woodpeckers, which I planned to visit the following morning. I was not exactly sure where to access the north-eastern embankment track, but with a little advance study of google earth maps, I did find it quite easily via the village of Megalochori (which itself is accessed from Vyroneia, 2 miles away). In Megalochori, the road you need is just to the right of the football stadium in the village. This road leads up onto the embankment where it becomes a rather patchy, pot-holed but driveable track, though with care in 1st or 2nd gear. Use your own discretion, especially if excessively muddy after heavy rain, but I managed in my Fiat. On my first afternoon of the 18th January, I spent 3 hours slowly crawling along, for a couple of miles before turning round and returning the same way back to Megalochori. Up to 10 Buzzards were perched in trees, a couple of Sparrowhawks flashed through, and what I thought was the wintering adult Greater Spotted Eagle, sat in a tree distantly. It spent 2-3 hours in the same position over 400 metres away frustratingly, and refused to come any closer. 38 'bugle-ing' Common Cranes flew overhead, having been feeding in the ice-covered, patchy fields. Greater Spotted Woodpecker, 30 Siskins, 5 Jays, Hooded Crows, and a roost of 300 Magpies were noteworthy, along with a few finches and tits, whilst on the melted inlet stretch of water, 4 Bewick's Swans, 15 Mute Swans, 2 Pintail, 30 Coot, 10 Moorhens, 6 Gadwall, 2 Tufted Ducks, & 2 Great White Egrets were present. In the village of Megalochori, I stopped to watch a Little Owl on a rooftop, basking in the short period of sun, as well as a Buzzard on a bird-table!

As darkness fell at 5.30pm, I headed the short distance to Villa Belles Hotel, where I dined, and downed a couple of beers! Not the best day, but still, you have to make the best of whatever circumstances there are.

On the 19th, I headed out after breakfast, to nearby Vironia / Vyroneia tracks, (see Steve Mills book 'Birdwatching in Northern Greece'). I took the tracks for a few hundred metres only, to the east and west of the main road that leads southward out of the village, but soon decided to stay by the main road as from there I could hear and see woodpeckers all around me and on either side of the road. 30 Blue Tits and a few Jays were initially seen, and a couple of drumming Great Spotted Woodpeckers. At 9.30am, the drumming and calling seemed to pick up for a short period, and I was pleased to see a male Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, and 2 Green Woodpeckers, all only 50 metres from the main road. A Goshawk flashed through, and perched up distantly. I was listening intently to the gruff and throaty yaffle of the 2 Green Woodpeckers, and certain that I could also hear the cleaner, slightly less angry yaffle of a Grey-Headed Woodpecker, which is the one WP woodpecker species I have not seen well. Eventually, I picked it out on the eastern side (the unfavoured side according to Steve Mills in his book), calling from a treetop 400 metres away. I walked down the track to get nearer, but it flew past me back towards the main road. Thankfully, it landed on an exposed and protruding dead branch, just 100 metres from the road, and I was able to approach to within 30 metres, enjoying what were by far my best-ever views of this often-elusive woodpecker-species. Excellent!

As it was now 10am, I drove on the short distance to Megalochori & up onto the north-eastern embankment track again. 2 Dalmation Pelicans offered excellent views in the north-eastern corner, 'facing off' with a Great White Egret over choice of fishing area. The usual wildfowl and Buzzards were again present, but there was no sign of the Greater Spotted Eagle out on the snow-covered 'flooded forest' section of the bay. I continued along the potted track, slowly ambling along from the warmth of the car, noting 5 Hawfinches in bushes, and 300 Pochard way in the distance out on the lake. I again came across the Greater Spotted Eagle high in a tree, but after a few seconds, it again became nervous and flew back in the direction of Megalochori, where I had just come from. I did relocate it a mile back along the track, where reasonable views were obtained down to 100 metres, but it again flew away warily. At least I had connected, though I would perhaps preferred to have seen a spotty juvenile. A possible wildcat trotted across the track, but of course it may have been a feral cat, though it was a few miles from any habitations.

By 2pm, I headed back to the warmer climes of Thessaloniki having achieved my aim of seeing Greater Spotted Eagle and Grey-Headed Woodpecker, and still had a few hours to kill before handing my car in. I drove just south of the airport at Peraia - noting 3 Ringed-necked Parakeets zipping by - where I turned to the coast next to the container port and airport, where I enjoyed a surprising bit of sea-watching, notching up a few Med Gulls amongst the Black-Headed and Yellow-legged, a single Sandwich Tern, 2 Great Crested Grebes, 3 Black-necked Grebes, 2 Pygmy Cormorants, 3 Shags, and best of all 7 winter-plumage Black-Throated Divers that were diving together in a synchronised fashion. Inland from the coastline here was an expansive, bedraggled reed-bed, but as dusk approached, a ringtail Hen Harrier quartered the marsh, and I also added Little Owl, Water Pipit, and Skylark. 30 Corn Buntings gathered to roost, 70 Hooded Crows flew overhead, and a mini-gull roost took place in the bay. I also found a dead sea turtle, I think it was a Loggerhead sadly.

So overall, not a great trip, but I enjoyed it and achieved my targets. Anyone thinking of going to Lake Kerkini in winter, needs to be aware of the limitations if it is iced over. Far fewer birds will be present. 61 species is a rather pitiful, shameful return. But I guess some birding days are like some football games - its that unpredictability that draws us!

BIRDLIST

Mute Swan x 15
Bewick's Swan x 4
Wigeon x 1
Gadwall x 10
Teal x 14
Mallard x 150
Pintail x 2
Pochard x 300
Tufted Duck x 2
Black-throated Diver x 7
Little Grebe x 2
Great Crested Grebe x 2
Black-necked Grebe x 3
Cormorant x 400
Pygmy Cormorant x 25
Dalmation Pelican x 100
Little Egret x 20
Great White Egret x 10
Grey Heron x 10
Greater Flamingo x 20
Hen Harrier x 1
Goshawk x 1
Sparrowhawk x 4
Buzzard x 30
Greater Spotted Eagle x 1
Kestrel x 5
Moorhen x 15
Coot x 50
Common Crane x 38
Black-headed Gull x 500
Mediterranean Gull x 10
Yellow-legged Gull x 50
Sandwich Tern x 1
Wood Pigeon x 15
Collared Dove x 70
Ringed-necked Parakeet x 3
Grey-headed Woodpecker x 1
Green Woodpecker x 3
Great Spotted Woodpecker x 4
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker x 1
Skylark x 1
Water Pipit x 1
Wren x 1
Robin x 4
Blackbird x 10
Blue Tit x 35
Great Tit x 2
Jay x 15
Magpie x 300
Rook x 6
Hooded Crow x 70
Raven x 1
House Sparrow x 300
Chaffinch x 20
Goldfinch x 6
Siskin x 30
Hawfinch x 4
Corn Bunting x 400
Feral Pigeon x 1

TOTAL 61 SPECIES

Plus mammals: -

Possible Wild Cat
Dead Loggerhead Turtle

SCENERY PHOTOS (2 lots - just mobile phone photographs, no birds I'm afraid)

1) View of Laker Kerkini from elevated Villa Belles at Northern end - you can see that the entire eastern side is iced over.
2) View of the eastern side of Lake Kerkini from the NE embankment track (accessed from Megalochori)
3) The NE corner showing small stretch of open water. The embankment track is good at this point
4) The worst section of NE embankment track as you progress southward was still negotiable. To at least half way along the eastern side.
5) Bridge over River Strimonas, between villages of Vironia/Vyroneia and Megalochori.
 

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What a nightmare Nick! I'm praying that the birding was better, especially as I had such a brilliant time there last year!

Chris
 
Final batch of photos:-

1) The main road leading back northwards into Vironia / Vyroneia village ( you can just see the houses in the village). I parked by the side of the road here. See Steve Mills 'Vironia / Vyroneia Tracks' in his book ""Birdwatching in Northern Greece".
2) A view of the excellent 'pecker' habitat immediately to east of the road into Vyroneia. On the right-hand edge is the raised track that you can drive down or walk along.
3) The habitat on Steve Mills favoured western side of the road, with the Tatra Mountains in the background. There are 3 tracks on this side, all apparently good for peckers in Spring.
4) Dead Loggerhead Turtle at Thessoloniko Bay? The head is nearly as broad as my size 9 shoe.
5) Back to Lake Kerkini for the final photo - showing the relatively ice-free southern section at Lithotopos.
 

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Shame about the weather Nick but I'd say you didn't do to badly for a flying visit! Fwiw we had a Wildcat along the embankment (and an Otter fishing in the pool in the NE corner)!

Chris
 
What a nightmare Nick! I'm praying that the birding was better, especially as I had such a brilliant time there last year!

Chris

Thanks Chris, it was hard work as you can see, but I am happy with seeing my 2 target birds, just not the expected spectacle.
 
Shame about the weather Nick but I'd say you didn't do to badly for a flying visit! Fwiw we had a Wildcat along the embankment (and an Otter fishing in the pool in the NE corner)!

Chris

I think it was a Wild Cat Chris, it seemed to have a really bushy tail. But I don't profess to know much about the species.

It would be lovely in Spring, I'll consider it one year. It could have been worse, thanks to the single lingering Great Spotted Eagle I saw the species well at last, same applies to the GH Woody which I am actually pleased with myself for locating on song and sight.
 
Nice write-up, thanks. One of those classic European destinations in the old Gooders guide that I used to dream about as a kid. Iced-up lakes seem rather incongruous in Greece!
 
Think on the bright side, better a weekend in iced-up Kerkini than a couple of days at at home :)

Nice write-up though, a bit of bad luck there, especially given the north end of the lake is usually the amazing end.
 
Thanks you three (DMW, Pete, Jos), appreciate your thoughts.
I will return one day :)-
Would love to see the great birding spectacle there.
 
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A comprehensive report Nick! as always. Total empathy with the driving ordeal at both ends of the trip. That withstanding...envious of your Grey-headed Woodpecker, have yet to lay eyes on that beauty....hopefully in the not to distant....:t:
 
A comprehensive report Nick! as always. Total empathy with the driving ordeal at both ends of the trip. That withstanding...envious of your Grey-headed Woodpecker, have yet to lay eyes on that beauty....hopefully in the not to distant....:t:

Cheers Ken

It was hard work. I'd never seen Grey-headed Woody properly, or well, before. They can be pretty tricky.:t:
 
Ok ok Jos............its ok for some :)-

Very nice photo.

Jos, as you see them so frequently, if a male with red cap has what looked like faint or slight breast streaking, would it be a 1stW male?
 
Ok ok Jos............its ok for some :)-

Very nice photo.

Jos, as you see them so frequently, if a male with red cap has what looked like faint or slight breast streaking, would it be a 1stW male?

If just slight, I would guess individual variation, some of mine are occasionally (very) faintly streaked. Juveniles are barred to some extent, not streaked.

I can be wrong.
 
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