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Fast focus on Zen Ray 7x36 EDII ?? (1 Viewer)

tpcollins

Well-known member
The Zen Ray 7x36 advertisement claims a "Fast Focus" wheel offering a 30% increase in focusing speed. I ordered a different brand binoc recently, which I am returning because the focus is too fast for my liking. It's back n' forth, back n' forth, until I get it perfectly focused and I hate that. My other two binocs (Leica and Zeiss) have a considerable amount of travel while still in focus. The Zen Ray 7x36 EDII keeps popping up on my wish list but I've always considered they might be "too long" for my liking as a mid-size binoc. But if it is a "fast focus" like the one I'm returning, I'll cross it off my list.

So for those that have the 7x36 EDII, what are your true thoughts about how the Fast Focus wheel works? Are you going back and forth to get the view into focus? Thanks.
 
The Zen Ray 7x36 advertisement claims a "Fast Focus" wheel offering a 30% increase in focusing speed. ...

So for those that have the 7x36 EDII, what are your true thoughts about how the Fast Focus wheel works? Are you going back and forth to get the view into focus? Thanks.

Hello TP,

I find the Zen 7x36 focus to be stiff and hardly "fast." That 30% faster is probably faster than the first Zen binoculars.
Incidentally, I like the Zen-Ray 7x36, once they fixed some internal problems. I think it is a very good binocular but every one has his own preferences, do try before buying or buy with a liberal returns policy.

Happy bird watching,
Arthur Pinewood
 
Among the binoculars I have, the 7x36 ED2 has the most forgiving focusing. The focus is faster than my 8x43 ED1, but still slower than Nikon Monarch. The Monarch has only one turn to go from one end to the other end, which is quite tricky for me to find the right focus. I currently do not have 7x36 with me. But I think it has 1 1/2 turn to go from minimal focus to infinity. It's just perfect for me.
 
So for those that have the 7x36 EDII, what are your true thoughts about how the Fast Focus wheel works? Are you going back and forth to get the view into focus? Thanks.

I don't need much focus for the type of observation I am doing thanks to its good depth of field. It is gradual and well controlled. Everyone might have different definition on how "fast" is too fast or not enough. You just have to try and find it out yourself.
 
But I think it has 1 1/2 turn to go from minimal focus to infinity.

I just checked my 7x36 ED2. It is 1 1/2 turn from minimum focus to infinity. I am always a little back and forth, but that is because I am fiddly. Could I get the image just a little better? Its not a problem of the center being out of focus. I wouldn't want the focus any slower.
 
It's a bit less than 1.5 turns from end stop to end stop but that includes over and under run too (for myopes and hyperopes).

From 3m to infinity (birding range) it's just a bit over half a turn (perhaps 0.6 turns).

Or about 0.9 turns from closest focus (on the end stop for me) to infinity.

I think the focus rate is right for me and I agree I wouldn't want it to be any quicker.
 
When people say a focuser is "fast" or "slow," they are usually referring to how many turns it takes to go from cf to infinity.

The 8x30 SLC Neu's focuser is "fast" by that definition, however, it turns smoothly in one direction but somewhat stiffly in the other, at least on the sample I've tried.

This is only an issue when I need to focus a lot at close distance such as in my backyard. For nature trails, it's not a big deal, but I do wish the focuser was smooth in both directions so I wouldn't have to use my middle finger to focus but rather my ring finger, which would allow me to keep both hands centered on the bin.

The 8x30 SLC's front muzzle load focuser forces me to slide one hand down toward the objectives, which is a less stable position to hold the bin, given its stubby barrels.

With only 23 oz. to dampen vibrations on this small bin, my hands need to be perfectly positioned to stop...

pickin' up bad vibrations
which is giving me aggravation
I'm pickin' up bad vibrations
(Oom bop bop bad vibrations)
It's giving me indigestion
(Plop plop fizz fizz indigestion)


The EL I tried works the same way, that is, somewhat stiffer in one direction than the other, but the focuser is "slow" by comparison in terms of the turns from cf to infinity (this is an older EL).

The ZR's focuser "speed" is in-between the two Swaros, but it also shares the characteristic of being somewhat stiff in one direction and smoother than the other.

Although the 7x36 ED2 weighs the same as the 8x30 SLC, its longer body and open bridge design helps dampen bad vibrations better, and I'm sure the lower power also helps.

The odd thing about the ZR's focuser is that there is little focus past infinity compared to the Swaros. Just a nudge past infinity and you hit The Great Barrier.

As far as TP's question, the 7x36 ED2 has good DOF for a roof its size, so I don't find focusing fiddly like I do with the 8x30 SLC or 8x32 LX.

However, because of the stiff focus in focusing in toward me, when I'm looking at fine feather detail I focus at an object in front of the bird and then rack out the focuser toward the bird with the smoother side of the focuser.

This way, I have more fine motor control over minute adjustments by using the smooth side of focus on the ED2. I only find it necessary to do this under poor lightening conditions (it's my eyes rather than the bins).

Try that technique and see if it helps.

Fast Eddie Half Nelson
 
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When people say a focuser is "fast" or "slow," they are usually referring to how many turns it takes to go from cf to infinity.

When people say "fast or slow" without thinking about it they often mix both rate of turning and friction of turning the focuser.

The problems usually arise when you get both are slow (or both are fast).

But reducing the friction on the focuser or reducing the number of turn will both feel like a faster focuser.
 
When people say a focuser is "fast" or "slow," they are usually referring to how many turns it takes to go from cf to infinity.

The 8x30 SLC Neu's focuser is "fast" by that definition, however, it turns smoothly in one direction but somewhat stiffly in the other, at least on the sample I've tried.

This is only an issue when I need to focus a lot at close distance such as in my backyard. For nature trails, it's not a big deal, but I do wish the focuser was smooth in both directions so I wouldn't have to use my middle finger to focus but rather my ring finger, which would allow me to keep both hands centered on the bin.

The 8x30 SLC's front muzzle load focuser forces me to slide one hand down toward the objectives, which is a less stable position to hold the bin, given its stubby barrels.

With only 23 oz. to dampen vibrations on this small bin, my hands need to be perfectly positioned to stop...

pickin' up bad vibrations
which is giving me aggravation
I'm pickin' up bad vibrations
(Oom bop bop bad vibrations)
It's giving me indigestion
(Plop plop fizz fizz indigestion)


The EL I tried works the same way, that is, somewhat stiffer in one direction than the other, but the focuser is "slow" by comparison in terms of the turns from cf to infinity (this is an older EL).

The ZR's focuser "speed" is in-between the two Swaros, but it also shares the characteristic of being somewhat stiff in one direction and smoother than the other.

Although the 7x36 ED2 weighs the same as the 8x30 SLC, its longer body and open bridge design helps dampen bad vibrations better, and I'm sure the lower power also helps.

The odd thing about the ZR's focuser is that there is little focus past infinity compared to the Swaros. Just a nudge past infinity and you hit The Great Barrier.

As far as TP's question, the 7x36 ED2 has good DOF for a roof its size, so I don't find focusing fiddly like I do with the 8x30 SLC or 8x32 LX.

However, because of the stiff focus in focusing in toward me, when I'm looking at fine feather detail I focus at an object in front of the bird and then rack out the focuser toward the bird with the smoother side of the focuser.

This way, I have more fine motor control over minute adjustments by using the smooth side of focus on the ED2. I only find it necessary to do this under poor lightening conditions (it's my eyes rather than the bins).

Try that technique and see if it helps.

Fast Eddie Half Nelson

Brock:

Good to hear about your focusing evaluations. It seems that for most folks,
something that is in middle speed will be just about right. For binoculars in the
30-32mm objective class the DOF may be less than one in the 42mm class, so
a faster speed may be too much.

Now, you may have heard about "Polka Joe", he is famous for the song "She's
too Fat for Me", change it to "she's too fast for me". That is just what I am thinking of when trying to focus with the Nikon LX or LXL in the 32mm. Way too
quick and then I am complaining about the poor DOF.

The older Swaro. EL. 8.5x42 does have a slow, or fine, or some may say a carefully measured focus, but that does give you more time to think about it, and what you are doing, but its strength is the great DOF so it may not matter. I find the Swaro. SLC 8x30 a nice challenge, what with the forward focuser, it does make you work at the task at hand, so makes it fun. Now you
have learned by now you use the ring finger, not the pinky to focus this one.
You don't need any wrestling moves to handle the Swaros. Just enjoy the view!;)

Jerry
 
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