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Noctivid 10x42. finally a nearly perfect 10 (1 Viewer)

Robert Moore

Well-known member
I just got the Noctivid 10x42 a few weeks ago and am thrilled with it. The image is so transparent and glare free and the colors wow just beautiful. The focus wheel is the smoothest I have had in any binoculars and I have had all the alphas including the Nikon edg ll This is the best binocular regardless of magnification that I have used with eyeglasses. I actually have to roll the eye cups out 2 positions and get no Blackouts and can still see the complete field of view and field stops. When I have them mounted on a tripod and I put the moon at the very edge of the field stop at the bottom of the field of view and than look through the other barrel is is off by about half the moons diameter. The collimation looks off just a little bit vertically but I get absolutely no eye strain and don’t notice it in day time. I am thinking of sending them in to Leica and have the checked out but that is the only thing I noticed with mine. I would highly recommend to anyone wanting a 10x who wears glasses. It is really a beautiful glass that has the best glare free view that I have seen.
 
I sure like mine!

I know it's new. I know that at least PART of the reason I like it so much. I KNOW it's Leica's best binocular to DATE for sure. I supposed it has the most FOV of any Leica 10X42 to date(I also know nothing more than bringing it up to where a 10X42 SHOULD be). For SURE it's the best focus adjustment of any Leica I'VE ever used....and probably at least tied with the very best period.

If I had my druthers....swap a little LESS ER for a little more FOV.....

For sure it's a Leica offering VERY competitive with anything offered by the current big guns....
 
Half the moon's diameter is an extreme error.

Yes I thought so. I will probably send back to Leica and have the collimation checked out. You would think it would cause some kind of eye strain but it doesn’t. Merges perfect near and far. Only one mounted on a tripod looking at the stars and moon can I see that it’s out
 
swap a little LESS ER for a little more FOV
This is the best binocular regardless of magnification that I have used with eyeglasses. I actually have to roll the eye cups out 2 positions

For people who want to use them without glasses, they have too much ER and thus blackout issues, especially the 8x42.
Also their FoV leaves something to be desired, and they have a bit more CA than other alphas. I really wanted to like the NVs but the above issues were deal breakers for me.
 
Robert:

Do you have to set the dioptric compensation to another value than 0d? In my experience a large dioptric difference between one's eyes can be the cause of the effect that you observed despite the fact that the binoculars are well collimated.

Peter
 
Robert:

Do you have to set the dioptric compensation to another value than 0d? In my experience a large dioptric difference between one's eyes can be the cause of the effect that you observed despite the fact that the binoculars are well collimated.

Peter

I keep it set at 0 with my glasses on so that probably is not it.
 
For people who want to use them without glasses, they have too much ER and thus blackout issues, especially the 8x42.
Also their FoV leaves something to be desired, and they have a bit more CA than other alphas. I really wanted to like the NVs but the above issues were deal breakers for me.

They do have a little more ca than I would like but not enough to bother me and everything else makes up for it. That’s why I said a nearly perfect 10. For me anyway.
 
For people who want to use them without glasses, they have too much ER and thus blackout issues, especially the 8x42.

Sorry, in the three samples I have used (one 8x42 I own), two 8x42’s and Chill6x6’s 10x42, there are no blackout issues.

I could see how if someone were missing the final click out, or if early samples didn’t adjust out as far (although mine is a pretty early sample), that could begin to be an isssue.
 

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When I first checked collimation on the moon it was at first quarter. So I just checked it again tonight on full moon and is only out about an 8th of the diameter so not nearly as bad as I originally thought. That’s probably why it’s not bad enough to notice
 
When I first checked collimation on the moon it was at first quarter. So I just checked it again tonight on full moon and is only out about an 8th of the diameter so not nearly as bad as I originally thought. That’s probably why it’s not bad enough to notice

Why not use a star?
 
best binocular regardless of magnification that I have used with eyeglasses. I actually have to roll the eye cups out 2 positions and get no Blackouts and can still see the complete field of view and field stops.

If I had my druthers....swap a little LESS ER for a little more FOV.....

For people who want to use them without glasses, they have too much ER and thus blackout issues, especially the 8x42.
Also their FoV leaves something to be desired, and they have a bit more CA than other alphas. I really wanted to like the NVs but the above issues were deal breakers for me.

I see a pattern forming.

Sorry, while it is close, that is simply false. I could see how if someone were missing the final click out, or if early samples didn’t adjust out as far (although mine is a pretty early sample), that could begin to be an isssue.

What isn't false is the current Leica Trinovid HD has too much ER. I have all five clicks extended & if I attempt to bring the cups to me sockets it blacks out. I should not be required to back out of fully extended cups for the view because I do not wear corrective lens.

Especially for oversaturated colour way too susceptible to chromatic aberration at a mediocre FOV for the price point. On the other hand I could deal w/everything else if Leica backed off the ER leaving the five click, or add a couple, adjustment allowing me to at least rest the bins in me normal fashion.

Leica has taken the '60s era too little ER turning it 360* which is fine if one wears glasses. Evidently Leica caters demographically to the older generation. Sadly for me as a product of the '50's I'm not optically part of the target group.

ETA: Certainly no intent to rain on Robert's parade as the Noctivid being an alpha is undue of any criticism/critique of a newly commisioned entry level Leica. As well the blackout is not the proper description. I see pieces of black as crescents, located according to tilt, because I cannot hold the bin steady enough w/o being able to rest them in me normal fashion. It is so annoying that I lose concentration. Only in that aspect does it black out my view. I'm right there at the edge/outside looking in. Actually, w/cups all the way in I still see the center half of view nice, round w/o appearing crescents. I suppose if there was one more click setting I would be good to go. Or if Leica, in their infinite wisdom, offered slightly longer cups.
 
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I traded a Swarovision 8.5x42 for the Noctivid 10x42. My Swarovision had perfect collimation so I am just wanting it to be like the Swarovski I had. I suppose I should send it back to Leica. They said collimation can be fixed here in the states at about 6 weeks time frame. Be a good time to send it back before spring. Should I send the original box and everything back with the binoculars or just the binoculars themselves? Anyone have experience with Leica USA warranty?
 
Sorry, in the three samples I have used (one 8x42 I own), two 8x42’s and Chill6x6’s 10x42, there are no blackout issues.

Good for you! Probably you have a relatively small IPD or deep eye sockets, please correct me if I am wrong.
 
I traded a Swarovision 8.5x42 for the Noctivid 10x42. My Swarovision had perfect collimation so I am just wanting it to be like the Swarovski I had. I suppose I should send it back to Leica. They said collimation can be fixed here in the states at about 6 weeks time frame. Be a good time to send it back before spring. Should I send the original box and everything back with the binoculars or just the binoculars themselves? Anyone have experience with Leica USA warranty?

Robert

Put them in the carrying case inside the original carton and any packing that came inside that carton, but don't send neck strap, rainguard or objective covers or instruction book. These accessories are just an annoyance to repair shops and can get mixed up on the work bench or even misplaced and not returned. Not sending them makes their life easier and it means they are secure in your possession.

Good luck
Lee
 
I in no way want to derail this thread, but the issue of collimation has interested me ever since I dropped my 10x25 Trinovid BCA's and I experienced what truly 'out of collimation' is like. They were repaired, but I'm sure they are still not right, or as they were, but having experienced the eyestrain caused by bad collimation I have noticed (or perhaps imagined) very small amounts of the same sensation when looking through bins which previously I had not noticed anything with.

It occurs to me that manufacturers probably work within certain tolerances when it comes to collimation, and indeed all mechanical/optical issues. I would imagine that even at the price point alpha bins occupy, no manufacturer can afford to ensure that every example is actually 'perfect' optically in every way. The very nature of the manufacturing process will mean small deviations from the ideal, and additionally, collimation must be high on the list of things which it is difficult to ensure is absolutely perfect. Even moving the hinge when adjusting the IDP would be enough to change the collimation slightly if one was using the most advanced measuring methods I would imagine. That also raises the question of how sensitive individuals are to collimation. What seems perfect for most might seem slightly off for others?

I would appreciate any insight and knowledge that the experienced members here have! :)

P.S. Moderators, If this would be better as a separate thread, or there is already a thread on this that I've missed, please take the appropriate action!
 
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Out of about a dozen binos that have been handed to me to diagnose eyestrain problems, one was due to collimation issues and all of the others due to the owners not knowing about the diopter adjuster and what it was for or they set it years ago and didn't think to check it out as they got older.

Lee
 
Reading the posts above regarding collimation makes me wonder if we are naming this problem correctly, it occurs again and again on this forum, so as usual, it's probably a misunderstanding of mine.
I have had several binoculars where one of the barrels had/has its sweet spot off-centre, but have been in perfect alignment. I understood this to be a collimation issue, as in telescopes which might require the collimation to be set up by the user. Is the misalignment of the barrels (with each other) simply part of the collimation setup, or is it a separate feature? (It's nice to have the correct terminology when returning binoculars).
 
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