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Objective lens cover for 15x50 IS? (1 Viewer)

Hi Dave,

I just use 58mm UV filters and not bother with caps that keep falling off. They are easy to clean and if you scratch one it is easy to replace. I put mine on as soon as I unpacked my binoculars and they have not been removed since. Probably best to pay a little more and get the fully multi coated SMC ones. The 15x50's deserve the best !!

Doug.......
 
Hey Doug, thanks for the reply. Do the UV filters improve the view at all?

I only use the 15x50s on my balcony so I'm not that worried about the lenses getting dinged up. I really just need something to cover the lenses so I can keep them on a shelf by the door and ready to use...without dealing with the case.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

These 'plain' filters seem to have no observable impact. It is the same type of filter that most photographers use to protect expensive zoom lenses etc. Certainly far less impact than typical plastic specatcle lenses....

Doug...............
 
Dave,

I did the same thing as Doug and my filters have never been off. The filters do seem to make a small difference I think but I fitted them mainly for birding by the sea, I can wipe any spray from the filters with confidence.

Chris
 
Just note that if in damp conditions (think Ireland in fall), there will be condensation between the filters and the objective lens.
The first surface in the Canon 10x42 at least is a flat that shields the rest of the optics. So there is no need to slap another filter glass on top of it.
 
Just note that if in damp conditions (think Ireland in fall), there will be condensation between the filters and the objective lens.
The first surface in the Canon 10x42 at least is a flat that shields the rest of the optics. So there is no need to slap another filter glass on top of it.

On my 15x I have yet to suffer condensation on the objectives. If you are having a problem moisture must be getting in past the thread where the filter screws in or past filter glass and holder.
 
Hi Dave,

I use the black clip on caps as well.....just in case. Regarding reduced light, I think that there is less light lost because you can always clean the filter surface whenever required without fear of damaging the somewhat exposed front glass element of these binoculars. I believe that you would tend to avoid cleaning these front elements until really needed if they were not protected - 'read as expensive to replace'. In damp BC, I have not encountered any condensation even when used for long periods at night for astronomy.

Doug.........
 
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Any decent (Hoya or similar) AR coated "filter" (i.e. clear or UV blocker) will reduce the transmission by 0.1% or less. You'll never see that.

They're cheap insurance in the field especially for tree sap spots (spring isn't far away ;) ) and easy to clean (remove and clean).

If only they had filter threads on my 10x30 ...
 
Hmm, you guys make a strong case for the filters as cheap insurance. Could someone please provide me a link to the least costly ones that will do the job. Thanks a lot,
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

I recommend using 1 long metal screw-in dew shields instead of filters. If you ever use these for stargazing you will soon "see" dew can be a real problem with the built-in optical window that protects the objective lenses of these bins. I am on my way back to Tokyo today so can't post any pics to show. But they will protect the window from scratches and keeps them clean better without the issues of condensation or hindering the optics like a filter can.
 
Hi Dave,

I recommend using 1 long metal screw-in dew shields instead of filters. If you ever use these for stargazing you will soon "see" dew can be a real problem with the built-in optical window that protects the objective lenses of these bins. I am on my way back to Tokyo today so can't post any pics to show. But they will protect the window from scratches and keeps them clean better without the issues of condensation or hindering the optics like a filter can.

Moreover, those screw-in sun shields do clearly reduce scatter and stray light with the big Canon IS binos which is caused by the sealing "window pane" in front of the lenses. I use sunshields with integrated extra filter-threads, so additional filters can be screwed on. Sometimes, for example when birding at the sea, I use polarizers together with the sunshields. Planar optics are more difficult to produce than spheric ones. Because of that they are affected by sample variation. So I think it's a good idea before buying any filter to take care that it doesn't compromise the image.

Steve
 
Yes, the bino still fits in its case with the shields attached though it is a tight fit. I am in the SFO airport lounge now but I did remember I have a pic of the shields in this post. FWIW, I think it is cheaper/more practical to WEAR polarizing sunglasses than to use same filters.
 
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FWIW, I think it is cheaper/more practical to WEAR polarizing sunglasses than to use same filters.

For best results one has to twist and adjust the polarizer depending on the sun´s position at the sky. This isn´t possible with polarizing sunglasses.

Steve
 
Yes, the bino still fits in its case with the shields attached though it is a tight fit. I am in the SF airport lounge now but I did remember I have a pic of the shields in this post. FWIW, I think it is cheaper/more practical to WEAR polarizing sunglasses than to use same filters.


Hi Rick,

I just asked about the screw-on things in your picture in another Canon-thread, and I'm delighted to hear on this thread they're called dew shields!
No need for you to answer my question on the other thread, now, thanks for letting me know here.

Best regards,

Ronald
 
Moreover, those screw-in sun shields do clearly reduce scatter and stray light with the big Canon IS binos which is caused by the sealing "window pane" in front of the lenses. I use sunshields with integrated extra filter-threads, so additional filters can be screwed on. Sometimes, for example when birding at the sea, I use polarizers together with the sunshields. Planar optics are more difficult to produce than spheric ones. Because of that they are affected by sample variation. So I think it's a good idea before buying any filter to take care that it doesn't compromise the image.

Steve


Hi Steve,

When you screw on additional filters onto the sun shields, don't they make the objective end considerably longer? And is it sturdy considering the shallow threads on the Canon's objectives?

I'm asking, because reading about the dew shields/sun shields and finding out there are threaded ones to have, raised my interest in using these to experiment with 1.7 mag converters screwed onto these. In an older thread I can't find back right now, I discussed the possibility with some other forum members to enhance the magnification of the stabilized big Canons by using converters. Don't know if it will work, but this thread has set me in thinking mode again.

Now, if I could only remember which thread the original idea was on in the first place....

Best regards,

Ronald
 
For best results one has to twist and adjust the polarizer depending on the sun´s position at the sky. This isn´t possible with polarizing sunglasses.

Steve

But is it practical? Afterall, what do you when you turn/point/pan? Re-tune the filter? And you need to do this precisely for two filters!
 
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