• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Sigma 100-300 F/4 replacement (1 Viewer)

wrogers

Active member
Hello there

I have a Sigma 100-300 F/4 EX DG that I find is not quite cutting the mustard..

I want either faster aperture, longer reach or better IQ....

My copy is not the best at the moment (I think it needs calibrating)

however I think I want either:

A sigma 120-300 F/2.8 (S/hand)
a Sigma 300 F/2.8 (S/hand)
Canon 300 F/4 L IS
Canon 400mm F/5.6 L
Canon 100-400 L IS

what should I do???

my top whack is about £1k maybe a tad more if I save up more...

please help??

Will
 
Will

first things first. It seems you are unsure if your lens is front or back focusing in relation to your camera. You need to know what the problem is before you can comment on its sharpness, so I suggest you do a test or get someone with experience to do a test for you and that person should have experience of looking at images at 100% when viewed on a monitor. You may be comparing your images to those on the net that have been processed exceedingly well and thinking your lens is not up to scratch when in fact your lens may be just fine.

If you are considering other lenses you need to determine if you need a zoom. If you need a zoom then other lenses should not feature in your considerations. If a zoom is what you need then a zoom is what you should get. Photographers choose zooms for reasons of composition and are confident that they will get close enough to the subject at the varying focal lengths the zoom can offer. There may be a small depreciation in image quality compared to an equivelant prime but that should not be a deal breaker.

If you are cropping heavily regularly then perhaps you should consider a prime. Once you have cleared up these issues then you can consider other specific lenses.

It would be useful to know what environments you photograph in and how close the birds are that you photograph.

A few images posted of what you have done recently may also help a little.

As your questions stands you are likely to get replies that "this lens is best" or "that lens is best" and whilst these replies may be true for those individuals they will be utterly meaningless without knowing the whole context of your requirements, abilities with the camera , your fieldcraft skills, your processing abilities and your general aspirations.

All of the lenses you have suggested are good lenses....it is a matter of what is best for you

Finally, I think there is a lot to be said in mastering what you have before moving on and spending hard earned cash on better lenses. There are images in the galleries and on the net elsewhere taken with bridge type cameras that exceed what many produce with top Canon and Nikon gear. The truth is, at the end of the day, it's the photographer that makes the biggest difference. A good photographer will maximise the potential of what he or she has and blow others out of the water with good planning and skill.
 
Will

first things first. It seems you are unsure if your lens is front or back focusing in relation to your camera. You need to know what the problem is before you can comment on its sharpness, so I suggest you do a test or get someone with experience to do a test for you and that person should have experience of looking at images at 100% when viewed on a monitor. You may be comparing your images to those on the net that have been processed exceedingly well and thinking your lens is not up to scratch when in fact your lens may be just fine.

If you are considering other lenses you need to determine if you need a zoom. If you need a zoom then other lenses should not feature in your considerations. If a zoom is what you need then a zoom is what you should get. Photographers choose zooms for reasons of composition and are confident that they will get close enough to the subject at the varying focal lengths the zoom can offer. There may be a small depreciation in image quality compared to an equivelant prime but that should not be a deal breaker.

If you are cropping heavily regularly then perhaps you should consider a prime. Once you have cleared up these issues then you can consider other specific lenses.

It would be useful to know what environments you photograph in and how close the birds are that you photograph.

A few images posted of what you have done recently may also help a little.

As your questions stands you are likely to get replies that "this lens is best" or "that lens is best" and whilst these replies may be true for those individuals they will be utterly meaningless without knowing the whole context of your requirements, abilities with the camera , your fieldcraft skills, your processing abilities and your general aspirations.

All of the lenses you have suggested are good lenses....it is a matter of what is best for you

Finally, I think there is a lot to be said in mastering what you have before moving on and spending hard earned cash on better lenses. There are images in the galleries and on the net elsewhere taken with bridge type cameras that exceed what many produce with top Canon and Nikon gear. The truth is, at the end of the day, it's the photographer that makes the biggest difference. A good photographer will maximise the potential of what he or she has and blow others out of the water with good planning and skill.

I couldn`t agree more with the above statement I still have and use my eos 10D just recently bought a 20D.The biggest value item is the photographer.

Steve.
 
Hello there

I have a Sigma 100-300 F/4 EX DG that I find is not quite cutting the mustard..

I want either faster aperture, longer reach or better IQ....

My copy is not the best at the moment (I think it needs calibrating)

however I think I want either:

A sigma 120-300 F/2.8 (S/hand)
a Sigma 300 F/2.8 (S/hand)
Canon 300 F/4 L IS
Canon 400mm F/5.6 L
Canon 100-400 L IS

what should I do???

my top whack is about £1k maybe a tad more if I save up more...

please help??

Will
Will,
I am selling my 'as new' nikon fit sigma 300 f2.8 if you are interested, not got round to listing yet.
Paul
 
thanks for the replies.. (i am a bit late.. had the flu just as the internet died!!)

very good advice there.. my problem however is that a prime to me is as good as a zoom, they both have advantages and disadvantages, but none are really that restricting, for example to me a prime has the better IQ (in most cases) and that outweighs the fact that I many be too close for say a 400mm prime, because a head and shoulders shot of a bird can be as good as a bird with lots of space around it.

I have decided against upgrading my camera body, as 10Mp and a 2.5" screen is adequate.. to me it seems that is the glass that can make or break a setup, however a good photo with a bridge can as you say, beat the pants off a Canon/Nikon setup.

as for the focussing, the lens focusses just in front of where you want the focus.

as for picture examples, my internet is just back, and so they shall be on their way!!

thanks for the help, and the long explanation, it saves me from asking more questions later!!

Will
 
Warning! This thread is more than 15 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top