birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
-
Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.
Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
A mad month in Madagascar Oct/Nov 2012 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter birdboybowley
- Start date
Gareth - see what you started? I blame you completely
Moi? o
oI think your two butterflies may be:
a Saribia sp. (an endemic genus consisting of four almost identical looking species)
and a Aterica rabema.
With some of the sp. listed you seem to be leaving the more lowland affinities of the Andasibe area forests on your epic trek!
kittykat23uk
Well-known member
Nice to see you have started your report Ads. Interesting to read about your plans for camping for Helmet Vanga. I think we were likely going to do the same as you, but I was told before I left the UK that a bridge on the route had gone so we couldn't go. I'm very glad we didn't waste any time trying for it.
For those who don't know, I was also planning to join these guys for the second half of the trip but, after we had some communication issues with Eugene and I realised how much time we'd be losing to the travel I decided to go it alone. Mind you your final itinerary doesn't bear much resemblance to the one we were looking at when I decided to withdraw.
For my trip report, which I'm in the process of writing up, please look here: http://safaritalk.net/topic/9709-madagascar-mora-mora/
All the best
Jo
For those who don't know, I was also planning to join these guys for the second half of the trip but, after we had some communication issues with Eugene and I realised how much time we'd be losing to the travel I decided to go it alone. Mind you your final itinerary doesn't bear much resemblance to the one we were looking at when I decided to withdraw.
For my trip report, which I'm in the process of writing up, please look here: http://safaritalk.net/topic/9709-madagascar-mora-mora/
All the best
Jo
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Yeah, the itinerary kinda evolved en route really. The reality between what Eugene said was achievable and in what was achievable in reality differed greatly.....although I read a report on Mammalwatching where Antsirabe-Kirindy was done in 8hrs and not the 2 days that Gaby stated. If I'd've known that we may have diverted!
Not sure which bridge was out for the HV, but your luck was in because of it at least!
Not sure which bridge was out for the HV, but your luck was in because of it at least!
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
10th October:
Needless to say, everyone was up early! Luckily for Chris and B the Henst’s Gos put in another flyover so not a bad start. Expectations were on the rise again, what with a nest to visit. So, after a nice breakfast of slightly squished baguettes spread with good old Laughing Cow cheese triangles (yum!) and the last pineapple, we set off with about half a litre each of water for what was going to be a strenuous climb back out to civilisation. We broke camp and set off upwards along a semi-path, seeing a perched Mad Buzzard on the way. The path soon became thinner and thinner and Luc disappeared up a ludicrously-angled slope and was soon whistling us to join him. With legs really not happy at this amount of punishment at this time of day Chris and I were first up and soon had a fabulous Short-legged Ground-Roller calling high up in a tree. What a cool bird! Kev and B joined us and we took a nice rest...I mean studied the bird intently
A good start we all agreed. Continuing walking up along the ridge we reached a high point in the forest where the whistling call of Hook-billed Vanga was heard. Easy to imitate, we soon had the bird fly in and show well. Luc told us to sit down whilst he went off HV hunting (he does this alot, often leaving you aloe for an hour or so). We sat and chatted away with not much happening at all....Luc never whistled us and came back about 45mins later with negative news yet again. Playback yielded no results either.
Expectations were now falling again...but we still had a nest-site to visit. Wandering up and down along the ridge we happened across a lemur-trap which Luc took great joy in destroying. Scumbags. A little further on we had a great view of a couple of Eastern Avahis clinging to a tree, one with a baby on its back – excellent!
We wandered downwards now for a while before emerging out onto a wide, obviously well-used path on the edge of the forest. Good news! Birdlife was restricted to the commoner birds with Ashy Cuckooshrike, Long-billed Bernieria, Paradise-Flys, Brush-Warblers, Magpie-Robins and Dark Newtonias making up the bulk. Both parrots were also seen again today. With the temperatures rapidly rising it was still murder not being able just to gulp down all the water in our bottles – again, makes us realise how we take it for granted. We struggled for less than 48hrs! We followed the path, picking up the normal bits and bobs until we walked into a clearing where we had great views of Eastern Tylas and a female Blue Vanga – more tricky was the Red-fronted Coua that finally ran up a tree for all to see. We also had a large Green Tree-Boa (Sanzinia madagascariensis) high up in the tops, a Lined Day-Gecko (Phelsuma lineata) in a palm and finally saw our first bizarrely wonderful Giraffe-necked Weevils – seriously the best bug of the entire trip!
We reached the near-vertical path down to the local waterfalls so Chris and I joined Luc in literally sliding down on our arses for a dip – apparently the HV nest was in the forest on the opposite bank. We stripped down and waded in....OMG it was absolutely friggin’ freezing – but ultimately quite refreshing. Not being able to hold back my thirst I had to have a couple of quick gulps of the icy water, making sure there was nothing obviously horrible in my cupped hands first! Luc came back with negative news on the nest front (surprise, surprise) and by now, we were so jaded that we couldn’t even be bothered to see if there actually was a nest there...although how we’d tell it belonged to an HV I dunno!
After a quick dip, Luc effortlessly ran up the slope back to path with Chris and myself taking a slightly more sedate climb. Slightly further along the path here we had our first quick looks at White-throated Oxylabes. Now this bird gave Kev a huge run-around and even I didn’t get great views until the penultimate day which is when Kev finally definitively connected with it – don’t underestimate this bird!! After that we wandered along the nice open path, out into open fields and obviously leaving behind any slim chance of an HV and seeing some awesome big butterflies and cool-looking dragonflies in the wetter areas along the path. About an hour or so later, with Luc and the other guide way ahead of us and Kev and B way behind us, Chris and I spotted some grey roofs in the distance and both agreed that they must belong to the posh-looking lodge we drove past yesterday morning. Rounding another corner, sure enough there was the totally birdless lake and further down the path was the bloody access road! Gaby soon appeared with the vehicle and we gratefully downed nearly a bottle of water each and waited for Kev and B to catch up whilst we watched displaying Cuckoo-Rollers overhead, seeing our first – and only! - female. They took so long that one of the guides was about to go back and check they were ok!
So, we asked ourselves, why the feck didn’t we just walk in this way yesterday as it took probably no more than 2.5hrs along a pretty much gentle path?? Or why hadn’t Luc sent one of his minions to check the nest and see if it was being used as he had promised clients this bird? Questions we will never have the answers to I’m afraid and by now we were passed caring to tell the truth and plans were hatched to try and fit in a trip north to the Masoala. B especially was not impressed with Luc so upon our return to the hotel he declined the offer to nip out for a quick check on the owl. We drove back up beyond the village and Luc soon found the cracking adult Mad Long-eared Owl roosting up in the pines – fab bird indeed. Back at the hotel, after a blissful shower, we chatted with Gaby about changes to the itinerary and he drove home how long it takes to get from A-B in Madagascar! We then disgruntled him a bit by declining en masse to eat at Luc’s and nipped over to the great restaurant in the Feo-ny’ Ala Hotel as were understandably starving! Food was awesome and much appreciated. Reflecting back on the experience from the comfort of home, we did see some cool birds but the overall feeling we had was that we’d been cheated really....and in the process missed a couple of key species only found here on our itinerary without a trip north.
Needless to say, everyone was up early! Luckily for Chris and B the Henst’s Gos put in another flyover so not a bad start. Expectations were on the rise again, what with a nest to visit. So, after a nice breakfast of slightly squished baguettes spread with good old Laughing Cow cheese triangles (yum!) and the last pineapple, we set off with about half a litre each of water for what was going to be a strenuous climb back out to civilisation. We broke camp and set off upwards along a semi-path, seeing a perched Mad Buzzard on the way. The path soon became thinner and thinner and Luc disappeared up a ludicrously-angled slope and was soon whistling us to join him. With legs really not happy at this amount of punishment at this time of day Chris and I were first up and soon had a fabulous Short-legged Ground-Roller calling high up in a tree. What a cool bird! Kev and B joined us and we took a nice rest...I mean studied the bird intently
A good start we all agreed. Continuing walking up along the ridge we reached a high point in the forest where the whistling call of Hook-billed Vanga was heard. Easy to imitate, we soon had the bird fly in and show well. Luc told us to sit down whilst he went off HV hunting (he does this alot, often leaving you aloe for an hour or so). We sat and chatted away with not much happening at all....Luc never whistled us and came back about 45mins later with negative news yet again. Playback yielded no results either.
Expectations were now falling again...but we still had a nest-site to visit. Wandering up and down along the ridge we happened across a lemur-trap which Luc took great joy in destroying. Scumbags. A little further on we had a great view of a couple of Eastern Avahis clinging to a tree, one with a baby on its back – excellent!
We wandered downwards now for a while before emerging out onto a wide, obviously well-used path on the edge of the forest. Good news! Birdlife was restricted to the commoner birds with Ashy Cuckooshrike, Long-billed Bernieria, Paradise-Flys, Brush-Warblers, Magpie-Robins and Dark Newtonias making up the bulk. Both parrots were also seen again today. With the temperatures rapidly rising it was still murder not being able just to gulp down all the water in our bottles – again, makes us realise how we take it for granted. We struggled for less than 48hrs! We followed the path, picking up the normal bits and bobs until we walked into a clearing where we had great views of Eastern Tylas and a female Blue Vanga – more tricky was the Red-fronted Coua that finally ran up a tree for all to see. We also had a large Green Tree-Boa (Sanzinia madagascariensis) high up in the tops, a Lined Day-Gecko (Phelsuma lineata) in a palm and finally saw our first bizarrely wonderful Giraffe-necked Weevils – seriously the best bug of the entire trip!
We reached the near-vertical path down to the local waterfalls so Chris and I joined Luc in literally sliding down on our arses for a dip – apparently the HV nest was in the forest on the opposite bank. We stripped down and waded in....OMG it was absolutely friggin’ freezing – but ultimately quite refreshing. Not being able to hold back my thirst I had to have a couple of quick gulps of the icy water, making sure there was nothing obviously horrible in my cupped hands first! Luc came back with negative news on the nest front (surprise, surprise) and by now, we were so jaded that we couldn’t even be bothered to see if there actually was a nest there...although how we’d tell it belonged to an HV I dunno!
After a quick dip, Luc effortlessly ran up the slope back to path with Chris and myself taking a slightly more sedate climb. Slightly further along the path here we had our first quick looks at White-throated Oxylabes. Now this bird gave Kev a huge run-around and even I didn’t get great views until the penultimate day which is when Kev finally definitively connected with it – don’t underestimate this bird!! After that we wandered along the nice open path, out into open fields and obviously leaving behind any slim chance of an HV and seeing some awesome big butterflies and cool-looking dragonflies in the wetter areas along the path. About an hour or so later, with Luc and the other guide way ahead of us and Kev and B way behind us, Chris and I spotted some grey roofs in the distance and both agreed that they must belong to the posh-looking lodge we drove past yesterday morning. Rounding another corner, sure enough there was the totally birdless lake and further down the path was the bloody access road! Gaby soon appeared with the vehicle and we gratefully downed nearly a bottle of water each and waited for Kev and B to catch up whilst we watched displaying Cuckoo-Rollers overhead, seeing our first – and only! - female. They took so long that one of the guides was about to go back and check they were ok!
So, we asked ourselves, why the feck didn’t we just walk in this way yesterday as it took probably no more than 2.5hrs along a pretty much gentle path?? Or why hadn’t Luc sent one of his minions to check the nest and see if it was being used as he had promised clients this bird? Questions we will never have the answers to I’m afraid and by now we were passed caring to tell the truth and plans were hatched to try and fit in a trip north to the Masoala. B especially was not impressed with Luc so upon our return to the hotel he declined the offer to nip out for a quick check on the owl. We drove back up beyond the village and Luc soon found the cracking adult Mad Long-eared Owl roosting up in the pines – fab bird indeed. Back at the hotel, after a blissful shower, we chatted with Gaby about changes to the itinerary and he drove home how long it takes to get from A-B in Madagascar! We then disgruntled him a bit by declining en masse to eat at Luc’s and nipped over to the great restaurant in the Feo-ny’ Ala Hotel as were understandably starving! Food was awesome and much appreciated. Reflecting back on the experience from the comfort of home, we did see some cool birds but the overall feeling we had was that we’d been cheated really....and in the process missed a couple of key species only found here on our itinerary without a trip north.
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Some highlights:
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
More....
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
The caterpillars were pretty cool actually - must've been c40 of them all following each other nose to butt across the path...
Last edited:
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Forgot to mention in the 'Money' section in #1:
Whatever you do - regardless of what the Lonely Planet states - do not bring traveller's cheques to Madagascar!!! Nowhere will change them for you, not banks, not bureaus de change, nowhere...Kev had a real nightmare because of this but hey, it was nice for him to go all '80s retro on us and bring them out. Bless
Whatever you do - regardless of what the Lonely Planet states - do not bring traveller's cheques to Madagascar!!! Nowhere will change them for you, not banks, not bureaus de change, nowhere...Kev had a real nightmare because of this but hey, it was nice for him to go all '80s retro on us and bring them out. Bless
Mike Richardson
Formerly known as Skink1978
Loving this report, especially the herps and mammals! I don't think traveller's cheques are much use anywhere these days.
kittykat23uk
Well-known member
Oh dear, I really struggled with the walking so I think I hike like that would have been a nightmare for me. Did he perhaps take you on the hike so you could see all the animals and birds? You did see a lot more birds than me tbh, though I spent a lot of my time watching the indris and the Sifakas. So please don't feel it was a complete waste of time. At least you we able to go back at the end of your trip to have another crack at the area and Luc showed you several little areas that I wasn't even aware of (we didn't visit the island with the ringtails, or try for the flufftails here).
At least you we able to go back at the end of your trip to have another crack at the area and Luc showed you several little areas that I wasn't even aware of (we didn't visit the island with the ringtails, or try for the flufftails here).Great Mad. Trip
Great read Ads. On reflection I still think Luc played us on the money front, but what the hec, all adds to the holiday experience, although being in a rain forest with little water, 35 degree heat, thinking we had at least another 3-4 hours walking back was certainly no fun.
Couple of record shot's of the Nuthatch Vanga.
B
View attachment 416169
View attachment 416170
:-O
http://climpingbirds.blogspot.co.uk/
Great read Ads. On reflection I still think Luc played us on the money front, but what the hec, all adds to the holiday experience, although being in a rain forest with little water, 35 degree heat, thinking we had at least another 3-4 hours walking back was certainly no fun.
Couple of record shot's of the Nuthatch Vanga.
B
View attachment 416169
View attachment 416170
:-O
http://climpingbirds.blogspot.co.uk/
Last edited:
Great report, I guess it should be on my list of places to go sometime ...but the compulsory guides absolutely everywhere probably means I never will. Or maybe a few more pages of this write up and...
Chlidonias
Well-known member
on my first trip to Indonesia I took a quantity of American Express travellers cheques (just in case) because everything said they were the most widely accepted there. When I got there I found out that American Express had pulled out of Indonesia (or something like that, I don't know), but anyway nowhere could accept them. When I got to Sarawak I immediately changed them all and walked around for the next wee while with wads of cash in my pockets.Forgot to mention in the 'Money' section in #1:
Whatever you do - regardless of what the Lonely Planet states - do not bring traveller's cheques to Madagascar!!! Nowhere will change them for you, not banks, not bureaus de change, nowhere...Kev had a real nightmare because of this but hey, it was nice for him to go all '80s retro on us and bring them out. Bless
This trip report is making me want to go to Madagascar now. Although the no-night-visits to the national parks must make finding the mouse lemurs etc much more difficult! The giraffe-necked weevil is one insect I've wanted to see all my life!
kittykat23uk
Well-known member
Nah, Mouse lemurs are easy to see. I saw 3 species. In Andasibe they spot them with torches as you walk along the road, but at Ilatsara (Lemur Forest Camp) we had many coming to a "lemur table" for banana and similar at Ranomafana, just outside the park. Then you can also see them in the daytime at the Arboretum at Tulear (Toliara). I took some video of them and will be adding it to the next installment.
I took some video of them and will be adding it to the next installment.
Chlidonias
Well-known member
there are a lot more nocturnal animals worth searching for in Madagascar than just the mouse lemurs though
DMW
Well-known member
You can often spotlight along the roads just outside the national parks, with or without a guide. Madagascar is probably the best place in the world for spotlighing: switch on a torch and point it at a random tree and you will usually get eye-shine from something furry!
Guides also know day roosts for a lot of nocturnal species.
kittykat23uk
Well-known member
Well you did mention mouse lemurs specifically, so that is what I focused on in my answer. But yes of course we also saw two dwarf lemurs and an eastern avahi on my trip on the night walks, also many chameleons. No birds though. However the more disappointing thing was they no longer have a carnivore feeding station at Belle Vue in Ranomafana so the chances of seeing Fanaloka are greatly diminished I believe. We did get lucky with a friendly ring-tailed mongoose out in the daytime though.
If you read some of the organised tour trip reports, there seems to be a private reserve somehwere near Perinet that allows night walks inside the forest. I wasn't aware of this when I was there. Plus Ad's Group with their night of camping were obviously able to see more birds and nocturnal lemurs (more avahis and small-toothed sportive lemur) than myself who stayed outside the park.
If you read some of the organised tour trip reports, there seems to be a private reserve somehwere near Perinet that allows night walks inside the forest. I wasn't aware of this when I was there. Plus Ad's Group with their night of camping were obviously able to see more birds and nocturnal lemurs (more avahis and small-toothed sportive lemur) than myself who stayed outside the park.
Pitta Patter
Well-known member
Forgot to mention in the 'Money' section in #1:
Whatever you do - regardless of what the Lonely Planet states - do not bring traveller's cheques to Madagascar!!! Nowhere will change them for you, not banks, not bureaus de change, nowhere...Kev had a real nightmare because of this but hey, it was nice for him to go all '80s retro on us and bring them out. Bless
Ha ha very funny. You can tell I haven't travelled in a while. Herculean efforts Ads. A great read, well done.
Best wishes,
Kevin
Similar threads
