Some 12x36IS II questions (1 Viewer)

I've just recieved a well used (to say the least!) pair of Canon 12x36IS II binoculars from Ebay. They look like they've been used in a war. As a weapon. Rubber coating is marked in places and missing on high points, the left optical tube is completely unserviceable - missing lens, objective tube all but snapped off up to the base of the main body of the bins. However, the right tube (& dioptre) and IS are working brilliantly so I'm using them as an IS 'monocular'. And yes - I actually bought them knowing this! Bit of a gamble but got them for £66 so can't complain! :t:

Firstly, is there a manual available anywhere? I can't find one online, including on Canon's site which simply says 'sorry, cannot find what you're looking for' when I select the manual. Not sure if these are an early example or not, has the serial number 96000215 if it helps to date them.

This may be a silly question but can I adjust the focus with the IS engaged? I've done it once but the focussing was stiffer. Is this something that I really shouldn't do or is it OK? Edit: if anyone's unsure it's the version where I have to press and hold the IS button to keep it engaged, it stops working the moment I release the IS button.

Lastly, considering the condition of the binoculars I imagine the IS system has seen a lot of use/abuse over the years. Would it be easier on the system to use it in short bursts or for longer, but with less frequent activations? Are there any kind of checks/servicing that I could do to help prevent any future problems?

I'm very very impressed with the view through these, might have to save up for a less abused pair of 12x36s or even a brand new pair. Looking at what these have been through though it would suggest that the IS circuitry should hold up to a fair amount of abuse without failing, whatever broke/smashed the left objective lens assembly looked like quite a heavy impact! Though I shouldn't speak too soon in case it promptly fails on me...

I think a BF member may have posted a cutaway diagram/parts list for some of the IS bins but I can't find it at the moment.

Cheers, I'll have a look for that

I saw one post where someone was describing focussing whilst the IS was engaged, so I'm guessing that's OK? Probably a silly question but with no prior experience with IS bins and no manual I want to make sure!

I've had no problems focussing with IS engaged when I've tried these out in shops.

I found the parts list/cutaway for the 15/18x50 model here http://www.birdforum.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=307764&d=1297367345

I knew I'd seen something somewhere.

Maybe Canon UK will help you with the 12x36 model.

I suspect my example is beyond redemption, there is internal damage to the objective lens holder, the plastic surround and objective tube - they must've had one hell of an impact! I'd imagine the collimation's a mile out too, I'm enjoying it as an IS monocular though!

I've found the focussing a little tricky at times too, I think the IS sometimes slightly blurs the image as it kicks in, usually settles quickly if it does it. Not sure if this is a fault or if all Canon IS bins do it.

Cheers for the link, will check it out now!

Some pictures of the state of my Canons to illustrate what I mean by their state. Note the old lens cap in the damaged side's eyepiece, this is to stop off the blurred view from the missing objective lens. Despite whatever abuse they've had the view through the undamaged tube is excellent, optics unmarked and IS works brilliantly!

Canon IS focus

I've got a 10x30 IS and there is no restriction when focusing and using the IS at the same time. The only 'problem' I have been aware of with the IS models is the slightly weak battery cover but I see they can be bought on ebay for a few pounds rather than having to return the bino to Canon. The last one I sent back on behalf of a customer, cost about £80 which was Canon's standard charge even for just a battery cover.
www.actionoptics.co.uk

That is steep for just a battery cover! So far mines ok, one of the few undamaged parts! Glad you can focus with the is on, wasn't sure if it could damage anything

I've just bought a pair of 10x30s off the forum, focus knobs quite stiff on it compared to the 12s. Don't know if it's just me but the IS on the 12s seems slightly more effective than on the 10s? Could just be my perception?

Dear Sammy,
I have used various Canon IS for years. If bought new they have been fine.
A 10 x 30 used one had problems. I think the batteries may have squashed the battery contacts. Have not yet sorted this but a different battery type works, probably minutely different lengths. However, optically for some reason or maybe the IS are not quite as good as the one bought new.
Also a friend's one bought new much later than my 10 x 30 is not quite as good as the early one.

I treat binoculars very carefully.
An 8 x 25 has had one of the front optical windows drop off. Luckily the window and rubber retainer are here and I have yet to glue it back. I will try Evostik impact and slight fine sandpaper to make it adhere. the contact surface is tiny. A relative had this happen, maybe too much in his bag and the rubber front retainer caught on something. But the original bond was not strong. They are made to be taken off.
I have carefully cleaned the optical window.
Because they have electronics and variprisms etc. the various Canon IS must be more complex than a high end standard binocular.
But I think they are unmmatched handheld.
The 10 x 30 IS betters the best 10 x 50 non IS handheld.
The original 12 x 36 Mk 1 is heavy but excellent.
The 12 x 36 Mk 2 excellent.
The 15 x 50 is I think the best binocular made bar none hand held for general use.
The 18 x 50 is great for dedicated astronomy.
The 8 x 25 I find too small, but the relative likes it. It should also suit shaky hands.

But I would be careful of any used example, which you should try extensively.
Even without the IS the optical performance is excellent, so a very cheap non working IS could be O.K.
I think Canon have a standard repair charge.
The only problem is the short warranty period.
I solely use lithium AAs. They last a long time,are lightweight and work in the cold.

They focus with the IS on.
If they hit the end of the prism movement giving smeared prismatic stars, immediately realease recentre and apply IS. Takes 2 seconds and is automatic for me.
The resolution hand held for the 18 x 50 is two or three times better than comparable non IS binoculars. Star images are tiny. Edge performanbce superb.
But treat them well and if you can buy a new one.
There have been several changes in IS operation over the years, supposedly to increase battery life, but may be also to cut costs. Not every batch might be as good as others.
Luckily the ones I use bought new are fantastic.
To be used to their best skill and experience helps.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for that very informative post Binastro! I have in fact bought a pair of 10x30IS off a fellow member here on BF - amazingly the IS on my wrecked 12x36s works better it seems than the 10s unless I'm doing something wrong! Don't get me wrong, the IS on the 10s is excellent but the 12s seem slightly steadier to me?

I'll remember that trick with the slightly blurred image - to release then re-engage the IS after centring the image, the 12s do seem to suffer a bit more from occasional slight blur/smearing of the image.

I very much doubt much can be done regarding repairing the 12s, though they are perfectly useable through the remaining working optical tube as an IS monocular!

Dear Sammy.
As more an astronomer than bird watcher, the Canon IS are unbeatable in their weight class.
However, bird watchers need I am told a 6.5 degree field, probably waterproof and a binocular that can take knocks.
Here the Canons are not so good.
The only one suitable on these terms is the 10 x 42L IS, which I have never used. It has a 6.5 degree field and some users suggest it is the best binocular around.
However, the 10 x 30 is close to being a bird watchers binocular. It has a 6 degree field sharp almost to the edge although not waterproof and not bombproof.
The consumer models, namely 8 x 25, 10 x 30 and 12 x36 MK 11 IS are built to a price that is affordable.
With these models there will be more variables regarding quality and IS effectiveness, and as I said at least the 10 x 30 IS has had several changes in the IS operation.
It may be because the 12 x 36 MK 11 is quite a bit more expensive the IS is better.

The 15 x 50 and 18 x 50 are built to higher standards, as was the 12 x 36 MK 1.
I said the 15 x 50 is as far as I am concerned the best general use binocular made.
From a bird watchers point of view that may not be the case.
What I mean is the resolution is unsurpassed if the IS is used properly.
The IS can be locked on very simply.
The edge performance is almost but not quite perfect, I know of no other better binocular including the Nikon 8 x 32 SE.
From memory the 15 x 50 has quite a bit of edge distortion, which is of no concern generally for astronomy and probably not for bird watchers.
The star images in the 15 x 50 are tiny, meaning all the light energy is in a compact disc. This means fainter stars are visible and very close double stars split.
This superb resolution will also manifest itself in terrestrial obsetrvations.
It may be the colour rendition is not up to say Leica 10 x 50 and 12 x 50 HD Ultravids. This may be important for bird watchers.
There may be a slight colour cast, not that I have seen one.

And anyway the preferred bird watchers binocular is an 8 x 42.
The Canon IS are different. The exit pupil is small, for some this is a bonus for some not.

The 18 x 50s may have had variations as they are difficult to make well.
But mine is amazing.
For a general user including bird watching the 10 x 30 IS is great as is the 12 x 36 Mk 11 IS but the 5 degree field may be too small for some.

You cannot drop the Canons 6 ft onto concrete and expect them to survive.
A Leica probably would probably survive this drop as would a Fujinon.

So it all comes down to individual choice.
And the choice now in my opinion is too great and too confusing.
Everybody seems to want something 'New'.
And the manufacturers encourage this to increase sales.

The 18 x 50 IS I use the most I have probably had for ten years, although I don't actually remember.
What is also amazing is that the binocular maintains focus for months or longer.
As I use them for astronomy this is excellent.
The IPD adjustment is quite stiff, but this is good as again I never have to reset it.
So it might take 20 seconds to get it out of the case and be fully using it..
I think mine do turn off after 5 minutes as someone mentions his 15 x 50 doesn't.
But I usually turn them off.
As the indicator light is on and I am using them in the dark it is easy to tell if they are on or off.
When the batteries are near to exhaustion performance of the IS tails off and it is sometimes difficult to know when this happens.
TO KNOW IF THE IS is at least on I always put the binocular AGAINST MY EAR to listen to it. I do this also before I put them back in the case.
If you know the binocular well the sound can tell you quickly if it is working properly or if the batteries are draining, and importantly when the IS is off it is silent.
The position of the ready light is ideal for astronomy as it is only visible from above.
Other IS binoculars have the light shining in your eyes reducing night vision.
A lot of the above applies to the 10 x 30 etc.
So these binoculars need to be learnt to get the best out of them.
I think people who have not thought highly of them have not got the best oiut of them.
But yes they vary and buying new is best for this complex device.

both the 10s and the 12s I have you need to keep your finger in the IS button for it to continue working, it's not one you press once and it stays on for 5 minutes.

Looking at the 12x36s I've got they've certainly had a fair old whack or two and continue working (apart from the left optical tube of course!) so the electronics do seem quite robust.

I've noticed that with the light too, I was using the 12s to look at the moon and noticed the light had stopped coming on denoting low battery but the IS was still working. I use high-capacity NiMHs in it and will take them out and recharge them now. The moon does look spectacular through IS bins, I enjoy optics but like using them for binocular astronomy, watching aircraft and of course birds!