Donana in November (1 Viewer)

This was a short, weekend break to Coto Donana in South West Spain. Myself and a couple of mates flew from Liverpool to Seville with Ryanair on Friday 16th November 2007 and returned on Monday 19th November. Due to the timing of the flights we had two full days in Spain, with very little birding time on either Friday or Monday. However, daylight lasted until about 6:30pm, so it wasn’t as grim as two days in the UK would have been at this time of year.

We stayed at the Hotel Toruno in the village of el Rocio. This was our third stay at this hotel, and as usual the service was excellent, the location outstanding, and all for a very reasonable price. We hired a medium sized family car, and this coped easily with all the tracks we took it down. Before we went I bought a copy of “Where to Watch Birds in Donana” by Jorge Garzón and Francisco Chiclana and published by Lynx, and this proved excellent and very reliable.

The weather during our stay was gloriously sunny and in the mid seventies. There hadn’t been any serious rain in the area for months, leaving large areas of land dry and dusty. However, there was still quite a lot of water around, notably at el Rocio, La Rocina, Canada de Rianzuela and the rice paddies around Isla Mayor and Veta Hornito, and vast numbers of birds were concentrated in these areas. On Saturday we went out to the northern marismas, whilst on Sunday we stayed in the el Rocio area.

The holiday started well. We arrived at the hotel at 10:30pm on Friday night, and after an excessive 30 seconds unpacking and freshening ourselves up, we made our way to the bar. Two hours later we took a “stroll” along the promenade at el Rocio, and by moonlight watched a small flock of 12 Greater Flamingos and a few hundred Shoveler feeding on the marsh, little more than 100m in front of us. It was looking promising!

Saturday 17th November 2007

The following morning we awoke to staggering scenes from our hotel balcony. Several hundred Flamingos were in view, along with thousands of Shoveler, (up to 4000 we estimated) and hundreds each of Egrets, Little Grebes, Black-tailed Godwits, Greylags and Coots. Red Kites and Marsh Harriers were dotted about the marsh. Thirty minutes later we were outside, and back on the promenade, and adding new birds to the list by the minute, including Purple Gallinules, Booted Eagles, Black-shouldered Kite, White Storks, Glossy Ibis, Avocet and several species of duck.

However, we were conscious that we had a long day in front of us on the northern marshes, and so reluctantly we left el Rocio, but resolved to spend more time there on Sunday.

Directions to the sites on the northern marshes are not complicated, but in an attempt to try to make this report more readable, I will only go into detail at the end. Our first major stop was at Canada de Rianzuela, a large shallow lake more or less between Vilamanrique and Isla Mayor. As we approached the lake, we passed the first rice paddies. Due to the nature of rice growing, these fields are irrigated and were very flooded despite the drought, and provided an oasis for bird life. In this area we came upon a flock of 10 Black Storks flying over the road. Soon we arrived at the lake, and the sight was almost breathtaking! A quick scan across the water revealed hundreds of flamingos and thousands of ducks (mainly Shoveler), whilst on the far side of the lake we counted at least 1000 Avocets and 2000 Black-winged Stilts. Most of the stilts fed in one, tightly knit group. On one island we counted 20 Great White Egrets, 100 Spoonbills and a solitary Purple Heron, whilst 500 Cormorants sat on the far shore. This is also apparently a good site for Red-knobbed Coot, but we didn’t spend too much time looking for them, because the spectacle was just so incredible as to make the search for one slightly different looking Coot seem ridiculous. We spent about an hour and a half here.

Having now experienced the first of the rice paddies, we were eager to press on to Isla Mayor, which is a village surrounded by a sea of rice. We weren’t disappointed. Mile after mile of flooded fields in different states of harvest, held thousands of White Storks, including about 700 in one field alone, and flocks of Glossy Ibis flew around, numbering around 1000. In the same area there were hundreds of Cattle Egrets, a few Little Egrets, the occasional Great White Egret and about 30 Spoonbills. Raptors were constantly in the air, predominantly Marsh Harriers, but also Red Kites.

We left Isla Mayor and headed west towards the pumping station at Casa de Bombas. On the way we added Hen Harriers and a late Montagu’s Harrier to our day list, and we had our first tantalising glimpses of Common Cranes flying over. Only 12, but enough to spur us onwards. On arriving at the pumping station, we turned right, following the canal and a line of pylons. The land was now very dry, and the number of birds diminished, but after a few kilometres we turned right and soon arrived at Veta Hornito. This is another area of rice paddies, which again were flooded, and the number of birds seen increased accordingly.

In the distance we could see another car parked at the side of the road. We could see that two birders had walked down a track and were observing a flooded field on the right through telescopes. I looked through my binoculars at them, and one beckoned us to come over. Excitedly we made our way quickly to them, with all kind of thoughts going through our minds. What mega rarity might this be? As it transpired, a juvenile American Golden Plover was a slight anti-climax, but still a nice bird, and it was with hundreds of Dunlin and Ruff, as well as a few Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Little Stint and Golden Plover. A few hundred Cattle Egrets were feeding in the rice paddies, and lots of White Storks.

Up until this point we had seen many hundreds of Greylag Geese in many places across Donana, but suddenly a couple of fields away in the distance a huge flock went up. I’m familiar with counting large flocks of Pink-feet close to home in Lancashire, and it was immediately obvious to me that this was something out of the ordinary. It was like a huge black wave approaching, and I estimated at least 10,000 birds. The noise was deafening, the spectacle staggering.

We got back to the car and continued on our way. Suddenly I became aware of a flock of large birds in the distance. A quick scan through the binoculars revealed the exciting truth – we had located the Common Crane flock. They were a good distance off, so we decided to leave the main track, and take a minor track across a field which headed straight for them. It seemed a good idea at the time, but soon the vegetation in the middle of the track was causing a problem to the underside of the car, being a bit taller than anticipated, and worse followed as the track began to disappear, and we were left with a couple of tyre tracks going across a ploughed field. At this point turning around no longer seemed an option, but just when all seemed lost, out of nowhere, we arrived at another, much better track, which ran parallel to the track we had left. Better still, we were now much closer to the cranes. They were like giant geese, at least 2,000 birds feeding in a field and hanging around in family groups. Possibly the highlight of the holiday for me.

The day was now drawing on, and we needed to make our way to our final destination, near to the Corridor Verde. We arrived at dusk, just in time to see the egret roost starting to build. Flock after flock of birds arrived, two thirds Cattle Egrets, the rest Little with a single Great White. In total around 4,000 egrets, sitting like lanterns in the fading light on a few tamarisk bushes, just 50m from the road. Night Herons flew over, but they had just left their roost, and were on their way to feed. A magnificent way to end the first day. We spent a good night celebrating and planning our second day in the bars of el Rocio.

Sunday 18th November 2007

Day two began in much the same way as the first. After breakfast we looked out over el Rocio marshes and saw many of the same birds, plus a few extra. However this time we continued our walk to the fields at the back of the village, and as the temperatures began to rise, raptors took to the air. First of all Red Kites, Booted Eagles and Marsh Harriers, they were soon joined by at least two Black-shouldered Kites. Then in the distance Griffon Vultures took to the air, and at least 12 circled together over the marsh. Finally, a Spanish Imperial Eagle drifted past, being mobbed by a couple of Booted Eagles.

Also in this area there were a few Waxbills and Serins, as well as the ubiquitous Stonechats and a few Black Redstarts, but the biggest surprise of the day was a Squacco Heron which we surprised as it fed in a ditch. It jumped up onto the bank and sat there, less than 10m away in full view for a couple of minutes before flying away.

The day was getting hot, and we were starting to see Iberian Wall Lizards, dragonflies and butterflies, notably Clouded Yellows. Suddenly a firework exploded over the town, and from the reeds, tantalisingly close to us, we heard the squeals of a pig, surely a Wild Boar, possibly a piglet.

We got back to the car, and drove the short distance to el Arroyo del Partida, just north of el Rocio. This is a stream which we had crossed on our way to Vilamanrique the previous day, and we stopped here looking for insects and amphibians. There wasn’t much in the way of the latter, but the place was swarming with dragonflies and butterflies, especially Migrant Hawkers and Clouded Yellows. We also saw an Otter here. Birds included Green Sandpipers, Snipe, Cattle Egrets, Southern Grey Shrike and best of all, two Lesser Kestrels, one of which I watched as it caught a dragonfly which it ate in flight.

By now, daylight hours were beginning to run out on us, and we still had La Rocina at el Rocio to fit in. Strangely, despite the masses of birds on the el Rocio marshes, like last year La Rocina was amazingly quiet, with hardly a bird on the water, and just a few harriers flying about. The best birds at the bridge were three Squacco Herons, and we did see some decent woodland birds, including Short-toed Treecreeper. We hung around until after dark, hoping for a Wild Boar, but unfortunately it was not to be. We did hear something churring, which sounded very like a Nightjar, but surely must have been a Mole Cricket or something similar.

So that was it. We returned to the hotel and adjourned to the bar to finish off our notes and reminisce about what we had seen. I can’t think of any other place in Europe which could have come close to that lot. I can’t think of many more experiences we could have fitted into two days.

Directions
To get to the northern marismas, we left el Rocio and headed north towards the town of Almonte. About 1km oustside el Rocio, there is a road to the right, signposted Vilamanrique, and we took this road. After about 5km, the road crosses a bridge over a river. This is called el Arroyo del Partida, and we stopped here on both days. Continuing past the bridge for about another 15km, you eventually come to the outskirts of Vilamanrique. At a roundabout with a petrol station, turn right, and then after another 100m, turn left at the next roundabout. Continue straight on for 1km until you come to a third roundabout, and go straight across, following signs for Isla Mayor.

After about 7km, you come to a T-junction, at which point you should turn left. About 2km further on, there is a track to the left. This is the start of the Corridor Verde, which is worth a stop if you get chance. Continuing past the Corridor Verde, after about another 2km, you come to a road on the left. Take this road, and the rice paddies begin almost immediately. After about 5km you will come to a large, shallow lake called Canada de Rianzuela. This is a top site and a major stop, so you should allow a decent amount of time here. Moving on, after another 3 or 4km, you will come to a road on your right signposted Isla Mayor. This road, which is surrounded by rice paddies, will take you through the town of Alfonso XIII and eventually Isla Mayor itself. Cross two bridges in the town, and then turn immediately right after the second bridge. Follow this road for about 4km, and you eventually come to a T-Junction. Turn left here, and you are now heading for the Valverde visitor centre. After about 5km, you come to a large white pumping station next to a canal, called Casa de Bombas. You could continue straight on to the Valverde, but we chose to turn right along a track following the canal and a line of telegraph poles. After about another 5km, just before the track crosses the canal, we turned right. This track stretches for about 15km, and takes you through some great areas, including Veta Hornito, and eventually brings you back to the main road, near the Corridor Verde. Turn left and then right, and you are now heading back to Vilamanrique.

Probably about 60% of the route described is along tarmac roads, whilst the rest is along good quality tracks. Only on one or two occasions did we come to potholes which required extreme caution, and at no point was a four wheel drive necessary, though it was getting a bit dodgy in the farmers field. Even last year, following torrential rain before we arrived, we still achieved much the same route in a small hire car.

Fantastic report. Roll on my turn

Great report.

I'll be using it as a guide come February. Thanks.

Coto Donana South West Spain

Sounds hectic, Nice One !
Thanks for sharing.
Mick
B

Thanks for a great report and brought back some great memories. Must go again, but want to go to Morocco first. Never know might be able to manage both in one holiday they are not that far apart are they?

You're back just on time. It looks like you almost got very wet. Floods in the Seville area for the past couple of days.

http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news/publish/article_13716.shtml

Alan Seaton said:

You're back just on time. It looks like you almost got very wet. Floods in the Seville area for the past couple of days.

http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news/publish/article_13716.shtml

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Wow. Rain was forecast on Monday, but we didn't see any. It's bad enough getting rain like that in city like Seville. Imagine what it's like in a place like Donana, which is completely flat for mile after mile, with no cover at all, and sandy tracks to drive down!

Thanks for sharing that. Had to rain sometime I suppose.

Thanks Bobby - great report...

Excellent report Bobby. I was looking for an area for a long weekend for my local RSPB group, I think I've found it.

David

Great report Bobby,
Just missed you, I left for Portugal on the 16th having spent 3 days in and around the same areas as you, apart from Veta Hornito, I'll add this to my itinerary next time I go.

Like you I found the spectacle of thousands of birds at the Canada de Rianzuela one of the highlights of the trip, unlike you I had a hard job to find any small waders, I know
where they were now. The egret roost was also unbelievable.

Regards

John

john-henry said:

Like you I found the spectacle of thousands of birds at the Canada de Rianzuela one of the highlights of the trip, unlike you I had a hard job to find any small waders, I know
where they were now....

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The smaller waders were difficult to find. If we hadn't spotted the other birders, and if they hadn't beckoned us to walk over to them to show us the American Golden Plover, I doubt we would have seen them at all.

Fantastic place though. I'm already looking forward to next years visit.

Hi Bobby.

Great report, great place. Going back in April '08. so a special thanks for the directions, will try to find my way around this time now JB is gone.

Twite.

Twite said:

Hi Bobby.

Great report, great place. Going back in April '08. so a special thanks for the directions, will try to find my way around this time now JB is gone.

Twite.

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As far as I know his wife is keeping the tours going, so it might be worth enquiring.

We never use the tours, mainly because they move a bit too fast for us and there are usually other people on the tours, who we don't really want to be with (because their priorities are probably different to ours). We like to stop off and spend an hour looking for reptiles and amphibians, and maybe dragonflies etc., often at sites which are not particularly productive for birds.

The others people on the tours probably wouldn't appreciate the stops, so we would rather go under our own steam, and find things for ourselves. In anycase, It's more exciting that way.

The first time we went to Donana (several years ago), we did go on a tour with an Italian guy called Claudio who lived in el Rocio. He was really good, and very knowledgable on may things, not just birds. He took us out on our own, and completely adapted the tour to our requirements. He picked us up before dawn, found us a Lynx, took us birding all day, and dropped us off at the hotel after dark. Then after our evening meal, he picked us up again and took us looking for amphibians, finally dropping us back at the hotel at gone midnight.

Unfortunately, I think he has now left el Rocio.

Coigach said:

As far as I know his wife is keeping the tours going, so it might be worth enquiring.

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Hi Bobby and Sandra.

I checked the Donana Bird Tours site and an glad to see there are a lot of dates booked in April and other months. I hope it all goes well for Rebecca.
I am only in Donana for 2-3 days with 1-2 days in Huelva and 4 days in Tarifa. I think Bobby has the right idea re. moving at own pace, I may end up doing that. JB's book is due for publication sometime soon, this will be the key that unlocks Donana, the place is a maze. If anyone has a top site in the area, it would be great to hear about it, directions would be even better.

Twite.

Twite said:

.... JB's book is due for publication sometime soon, this will be the key that unlocks Donana, the place is a maze.....

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I've been wondering about John Butler's book. Last time I heard, before he died, it was with the publishers and due out in September / October this year. I assume that it will still be published. I hope so.

He did a lot to open up Donana to a lot of people, and the publication of the book would be a fitting way for him to bow out. Almost like he handheld people around Donana for years, but with his final act gave them the means to stand on their own two feet and explore the place themselves.

I look forward to reading it.

Coigach said:

He did a lot to open up Donana to a lot of people, and the publication of the book would be a fitting way for him to bow out. Almost like he handheld people around Donana for years, but with his final act gave them the means to stand on their own two feet and explore the place themselves.

I look forward to reading it.

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I agree and am looking forward to it too.

Twite.