Scope, or 3x teleconverter? (1 Viewer)

I am currently using a Swaro ATS80HD, and am happy digiscoping with it. Also using a Sony DSC-TRV356E video camera (Digital8, with an 18x zoom), which I am also happy with.

Trouble comes when I try to use them together - I need so much zoom to eradicate vignetting, that the net magnification is huge. Even at 20x on the scope, the 8-10x needed on the video gives about 200x in total - way to much.

One simple solution would seem to be the addition of a Sony 3x teleconverter in place of the scope, giving me 3x-54x zoom with just the video. Not cheap though, so if anyone has any experience of using one, I'd appreciate any hints or tips prior to purchase.

Alternately, any solutions to using the scope/video combo would be appreciated too.

Thanks in advance,

Steve.

I have a similar "problem" and have skimmed a bit off my 20x eyepiece to get it as close to the camera lens as possible. I do get "cut off" in each corner, but this is down to the wide screen format. When I start to zoom out I do get vignetting, but as I really only want to extract a frame or two, then I simply crop it out.

I tried using the slow motion a couple of days ago, and was very pleased with the result. I am not sure of the actual shutter/frame speed, but it stopped the action long enough for me to get this shot.



Dull day, light coming from behind (doesn't it always)

Den

Hi Steve,

I use the same scope with a 20-60x eyepiece and have the same problem when I want to videoscope with my Sony PC330E which has a 10x zoom. Even with this I find that I have to use almost maximum camcorder zoom to eradicate vignetting. At 200x magnification it is impossible to obtain a steady image. To solve this I purchased an EagleEye Digiscoping Eyepiece which only has a 12x magnification on my scope.

With this combination there is some vignetting at the wideangle end but this soon disappears when I zoom in a little. I find I can use around 75% of the zoom range which gives me a maximum of about 100x magnification. Providing there is not much wind the results are very good. Obviously you need a sturdy tripod with a balanced head for best results.

I also use a Sony 2x converter lens for close work which is far more convenient. Image quality is good but it does suffer from slight colour fringeing when shooting birds in trees against a white sky. I would assume that the 3x model would give similar results.

If you require any further information I would be pleased to help.

Mike

I'm using Sony camcorder 20x with 2x converter, and also find some vignetting at wideangle, but it's not a problem, as most use is at the maximum zoom end. At max zoom, I find the image a bit blurry, so pull back just a tad. Even with a monopod, shake can be a problem, but I find a tripod too cumbersome and slow to set up on most occasions. If I can find one in the sales, maybe the Sony 40x would be tempting!

Mary said:

I'm using Sony camcorder 20x with 2x converter, and also find some vignetting at wideangle, but it's not a problem, as most use is at the maximum zoom end. At max zoom, I find the image a bit blurry, so pull back just a tad.

Click to expand...

I've followed your example, and got a 2x converter.

Well actually, I've got two, the first being a Sony VCL-R2037 which is OK, but has pretty poor edge definition and chromatic abberation. I also picked up a VCL-HG2037X which is bigger, brighter, sharper, and significantly better in all respects that the 2037 - £399 on Amazon, but I got a used one (though you'd never know it) for just £30!

I've even found that with an adapter, it fits my Sony P5100, giving me up to 6x on my 3x compact!

I have the Sony VCL 2037 2X converter on my Sony SR5E and find the image pretty poor, with a lot of colour fringing. Only cost £20 on ebay, so not to downhearted

I am considering making an adaptor to use my Nikon TCE17 ED lens..........

Den

Hi Steve,

I have already solved this problem. The root cause I found was inadequate eyerelief on the eyepiece and too much spacing between the eye lens of the eyepiece and the objective of the camcorder.

To get full field videoscoping without having to zoom to max, it you will either:
1. Get an eyepiece with very long eyerelief - preferably over 23mm with your current setup or
2. Be able to remove the front cover of the camcorder so the eyelens and camcorder objective can be closer together.

So to use your Swaro spotter, either the front cover of the camcorder is removeable and you can seat the camcorder closer

OR

you need to get an astro adapter and get a very long eyerelief astro eyepiece.

You can view my album here where I've been doing HD videoscoping using various long eyerelief eyepieces and various scopes, both spotters and astro refractors:
http://www.vimeo.com/album/31076

Let me know if you like me to post pics of my setup.

Here is a short clip of a Rock Dove taken with a panasonic gs320 3ccd minidv camcorder and an old Nikon tc-e3ed teleconverter. I used to use the converter with my old digicam and this was just an experiment to see how it would work on the camcorder. It's not bad actually.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ricksphotos0501/3258010897/


Rick