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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

The new SX30 IS (1 Viewer)

pshute & J.D - I had high hopes for using the SX30 for BIF's (birds in flight) but as it turned out it's a big disappointment. It just cannot lock-in focus fast enough. I have much better results using a RDS (red dot sight) on my Panasonic FZ50 superzoom. Here is a GIF animation showing recent success using the FZ50 and RDS on a couple passing gulls. Not trying to aim and frame thru the narrow angle tunnel vision view of the EVF, the RDS helps at panning with the bird even when trees and blackout make it tough because you see with two eyes the whole scene. While the reach of a powerful telephoto is GREAT the very narrow view makes following animal action very challenging. During exposure both my FZ50 and SX30 blackout the EVF ... don't all digital still cameras do that? A TCON-17 tele extender was attached to the FZ50 for about a 720mm 35mm equiv. The SX30 is 840mm with no add-on lens.

Because of the SX30's small sensor and associated noise problems at higher ISO I seldom go above 200. Also, I've noticed with the SX30 that at 400 ISO and above there is added "lag" between shots. I guess it's processing the shot. Continuous mode is much slower which is another reason I seldom go above ISO 200. The SX30's continuous rate of about a frame per second is acceptable for the shooting I do. A faster rate would result in better shots, but I don't think I'd like the chore of weeding thru results from 5 frames per second. The FZ50 has about the same rate but it's also limited to five shot bursts which is sometimes a problem. I started using the SX30 with a 2G class 2 (I think) SD card. I didn't note any speed difference once I got the 8G class 6 cards. I'm not one to do testing, but my feeling as a user is the speed rating of the memory card may have more to do with video recording performance than still frame rate.

The GIF shows two separate sequences. One of four shots and the other of three. I was trying to shoot within the small view I have between trees. On one sequence the camera focused just before the bird went behind the branches and the shot was taken. Seven were sized down from full frame one was cropped and enhanced for contrast and sharpness to show the quality of focus.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7937/gulltreebif.gif

Here's a post I did when I first got the SX30 showing it with the RDS. While I've given up on the SX30 for BIFs I still like the sight for shooting BIB's ... birds in bushes! It's quite handy for letting me follow their random moving ways getting shots for IDing and occasionally one to show off in the bird group or forum.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1010&message=36683864

On the job for 20 years I carried heavy bags. Film camera bodies and lenses. Back then if you wanted quality you shot sheet film 4x5" or larger. BIG klunky bellows cameras and heavy tripods. For people on the move 35mm made more sense. My agency compromised so I shot a roll film Pentax 6x7 for B&W and Nikon 35mm for Kodachrome. For me weak in old age but wise in wisdom ... I choose to use light weight small sensor superzooms. They provide a LOT of bang for the buck ... or pound.

kenn3d posts some of the best small sensor bird shots I've ever seen. He's knowledgable about his backyard birding and photography and he is very helpful and articulate. If you want to learn more about the SX30 and how to get quality images of birds you would be well served to backtrack and read some of his posts in DP Review Canon Talk forum. I KNOW you will enjoy seeing his bird photos. Here's a link to one of Kenn's recent posts.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1010&thread=37590743


Oh, as for the SX30 and RAW there is a special software program placed on the SD memory card that is designed to access Canon camera inner workings to provide features way beyond what's normal like RAW, time exposures, wired shutter release, etc. It's called CHDK and you can read about it in Wiki. The fellow working on the new version for the SX30 is on vacation, but said he'd resume his effort some time in February and will return then to posting in the Canon Talk forum. His screen name there is "PhilM"
 
Thanks for the input Viddyog,I guess there is no perfect bridge camera.I keep changing my mind which i prefer every time i read something new.Reading other posts implies that other makes have this delay in writing cards ,which i have never witnessed before with my previous ordinary compacts.I take it that the manual focus control is a waste of space ?
 
Oh yeah, sorry I forgot to mention my experience with SX30 manual focus .... it's AWFUL. You turn the little "wheel" dial and it does not change the focus unless it's in the right mood ... meaning sometimes it changes and sometimes it doesn't I haven't got it figured out. For static tripod shots it's usable if you get it's operation figured out (I'm not the only one who hasn't) for action shooting forget it!
 
Oh, as for the SX30 and RAW there is a special software program placed on the SD memory card that is designed to access Canon camera inner workings to provide features way beyond what's normal like RAW, time exposures, wired shutter release, etc. It's called CHDK and you can read about it in Wiki. The fellow working on the new version for the SX30 is on vacation, but said he'd resume his effort some time in February and will return then to posting in the Canon Talk forum. His screen name there is "PhilM"
I'd be interested to hear how this goes. I tried CHDK on my S3, and found that the rate of writing raw files to the card was too slow for it to be useful. Could have been 10 seconds or something. I decided there was more benefit to be had from taking a few more shots in that time than could be had from being able to twiddle with exposure and noise reduction a little bit more later.
 
The GIF shows two separate sequences. One of four shots and the other of three. I was trying to shoot within the small view I have between trees. On one sequence the camera focused just before the bird went behind the branches and the shot was taken. Seven were sized down from full frame one was cropped and enhanced for contrast and sharpness to show the quality of focus.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7937/gulltreebif.gif
Looks pretty good to me!
 
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Oh yeah, sorry I forgot to mention my experience with SX30 manual focus .... it's AWFUL. You turn the little "wheel" dial and it does not change the focus unless it's in the right mood ... meaning sometimes it changes and sometimes it doesn't I haven't got it figured out. For static tripod shots it's usable if you get it's operation figured out (I'm not the only one who hasn't) for action shooting forget it!
I've heard that about several recent Canons. I think someone worked out that the amount of lens movement has proportional to how fast you moved the dial, or something like that. So you need to move it fast initially, then slowly as you get closer to being focused. I can't remember for sure, and can't find any threads on it now, but that might be worth a try.

There was also some talk of accidentally pressing the wheel buttons while trying to turn it.

MF on the S3 was hard because the MF button was on the front, in a position that was hard to reach with my thumb when I was holding the end of the teleconverter. I ended up taping an icy-pole stick to the side of the teleconverter to let me reach it without moving my hand. It also only has up/down buttons to adjust the focus, which means moving the other thumb around a lot. Surely the wheel has to be an improvement on that.
 
I've been looking for an alternative to my Nikon P100 for bird shots. Despite its spot focus, I get a lot of this kind of thing. The spot focus was right on his belly but still no go. I took about 5 shots, refocusing each time, that all came out like this.

I have seen some comments elsewhere about the SX30 being able to autofocus better though the trees. I wonder if anyone has experience with both the Nikon P100 and the Canon SX30 who could comment.

I'm also wondering about Nikon's new P500. The specs are out but production units are not yet in the stores so no real hands-on review yet.

I can't afford to go SLR and neither do I want to carry one. I'd like to get a superzoom that will give me more in-focus shots than the Nikon P100 is giving me.
 
As a travel camera I think the Canon PowerShot SX30 IS is hard to beat. It is cheap but gives great shots.

I have a 7D and 5DM2 but for traveling the SX30 is the way to go.

Checkout these shots

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jingbar/sets/72157624905782755/with/5430662776/

I now just need the raw "hack" for the camera

Bob

Wow. I'm amazed by the IQ of those shots. I've been using S2IS for several years, and have been considering moving up to DSLR and zoom for nature photography. Having had the chance to try out a rig yesterday, I think it's not for me. I don't stand in one place and shoot what comes by. I typically hike many miles, seeking particular things that I'm documenting, as opposed to creating art. So I've started to research anew, focusing on updated point-and-shoots. You've got me convinced that the SX30IS might be the way to go..
 
As a travel camera I think the Canon PowerShot SX30 IS is hard to beat. It is cheap but gives great shots.

I have a 7D and 5DM2 but for traveling the SX30 is the way to go.

Checkout these shots

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jingbar/sets/72157624905782755/with/5430662776/

I now just need the raw "hack" for the camera

Bob

WoW, some superb shots there.
What would have been nice to see, is more wide angle shots after the tele to show the distance you took the photos. I am well tempted.

toad
 
I bought one last Friday. I have been pleasantly surprised by it. Unlike many of you, I am moving UP from lower quality camera's like the Sony cybershot and JVC Everio, and compared to those this guy is fabulous. The stability is excellent, the photograph of the woodpecker I took with 95X zoom, hand held, and no sign of shake in the photo at all. Here are some of the images I have taken with it, no editing done except for cropping and size:

Hand held at 95X zoom:
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359650/ppuser/94279

Another handheld shot, but at a zoom of only 20 or so.
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359649/ppuser/94279

Two pictures using on tripod, 95X zoom:
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359726/ppuser/94279

http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359651/ppuser/94279

Getting the focus right is a pleasure with this camera even in autofocus mode. No more problems with a camera focusing on the background, or stuff in the foreground now.

I think it is an excellent camera for the price, and the 35X optical zoom is unparalleled for a built in lens.

Marshall
 
I bought one last Friday. I have been pleasantly surprised by it. Unlike many of you, I am moving UP from lower quality camera's like the Sony cybershot and JVC Everio, and compared to those this guy is fabulous. The stability is excellent, the photograph of the woodpecker I took with 95X zoom, hand held, and no sign of shake in the photo at all. Here are some of the images I have taken with it, no editing done except for cropping and size:

Hand held at 95X zoom:
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359650/ppuser/94279

Another handheld shot, but at a zoom of only 20 or so.
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359649/ppuser/94279

Two pictures using on tripod, 95X zoom:
http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359726/ppuser/94279

http://www.birdforum.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/359651/ppuser/94279

Getting the focus right is a pleasure with this camera even in autofocus mode. No more problems with a camera focusing on the background, or stuff in the foreground now.

I think it is an excellent camera for the price, and the 35X optical zoom is unparalleled for a built in lens.

Marshall

So you are using the digital zoom on top of optical? I have tended to turn digital zoom off and then crop the photo afterward. I wonder if there is an advantage your way?
 
So you are using the digital zoom on top of optical? I have tended to turn digital zoom off and then crop the photo afterward. I wonder if there is an advantage your way?

Yes. There are several advantages. First since the focus is set to a small square box in the center, I can get the whole bird in the box for a near exact focus quickly and easily. If I stop at the optical limit the box will contain sufficient background and/or foreground sometimes to totally muck up the focus. Of course one could use the manual focus, but right now that is too much hassle for me trying to shoot on the fly with little time for a shot. Also, with my old aging eyes, I can more easily determine if it is a good focus on the bird or not.

The second advantage is that since the pictures are for posting on the net, and on this site, I shoot at a lower resolution of M2 (1800X1600 pixels). This lets me put many more pictures on a memory card, and not take up so much room on my hard drive, yet still be able to do optimum cropping to 1024 or 800 pixels. In a lower resolution mode the digital zoom does not affect resolution at all up to the point of where all the pixels are represented in the final shot each. Of course noise will increase since there will be less pixels being averaged, or no averaging between multiple initial pixels into the final pixels, but you encounter the same problem doing the cropping in a computer as well. Of course if I were shooting for portraits or large prints I would use the higher resolution, but for what I am using it for it is a good compromise.

Marshall
 
Yes. There are several advantages. First since the focus is set to a small square box in the center, I can get the whole bird in the box for a near exact focus quickly and easily. If I stop at the optical limit the box will contain sufficient background and/or foreground sometimes to totally muck up the focus. Of course one could use the manual focus, but right now that is too much hassle for me trying to shoot on the fly with little time for a shot. Also, with my old aging eyes, I can more easily determine if it is a good focus on the bird or not.

Interesting. It would certainly help if you're using auto focus. I have the camera set to center spot focus and metering so I don't know know how much your approach would help in addition. I suppose zooming in on an even smaller field could help additionally. I don't know.

Perhaps I'll do some experimenting.

The second advantage is that since the pictures are for posting on the net, and on this site, I shoot at a lower resolution of M2 (1800X1600 pixels). This lets me put many more pictures on a memory card, and not take up so much room on my hard drive, yet still be able to do optimum cropping to 1024 or 800 pixels. In a lower resolution mode the digital zoom does not affect resolution at all up to the point of where all the pixels are represented in the final shot each. Of course noise will increase since there will be less pixels being averaged, or no averaging between multiple initial pixels into the final pixels, but you encounter the same problem doing the cropping in a computer as well. Of course if I were shooting for portraits or large prints I would use the higher resolution, but for what I am using it for it is a good compromise.

Marshall

I just always have it on max. Probably won't help me on that score.
 

The more I think about it be more it strikes me as astounding that you could do that at 95X handheld.

I've noticed that the IS is amazingly effective. There are times when I have to take my finger off the shutter button to turn the IS off because I had not aimed correctly and the camera had locked on to a spot that I had not intended to focus on. Strong IS for sure.
 
I am old, and frankly I used to be a pro. Back then we used to zoom in on a subject to get a “spot” reading and hold that setting when we zoomed out. (actually I Manuel set that setting, but when I was in a hurry, I could “lock” in) Now I'm looking for a camera for birding that I can afford and I can carry.

I can't help but wonder if Cameras like the Canon SX30 have some way to do that with the auto focus. Maybe I'm the only person in the world that thinks that would be useful, or maybe it there but I just don't know what to call it.

I've been a Canon man for a lot of years, and now I'm trying to decide between the Nikon super zoom(500) and the Canon. Problem is, the Nikon has time lapse, and I love playing with time lapse. The Nikon also has less time parallax and the ability to shoot a 5 shot burst in less then a second. Now everyone says the Canon has better IS and does a bit better on AF-which gives a reason to lean toward the Canon.

Is there any “easy” way to zoom in and “hold” the AF and exposure on the Canon? My only experience with a digital is the Canon power shot A80. My main reason for buying this model is that it was one of the very few I could set SS and F stop manual.
 
I am old, and frankly I used to be a pro. Back then we used to zoom in on a subject to get a “spot” reading and hold that setting when we zoomed out. (actually I Manuel set that setting, but when I was in a hurry, I could “lock” in) Now I'm looking for a camera for birding that I can afford and I can carry.

I can't help but wonder if Cameras like the Canon SX30 have some way to do that with the auto focus. Maybe I'm the only person in the world that thinks that would be useful, or maybe it there but I just don't know what to call it.

I've been a Canon man for a lot of years, and now I'm trying to decide between the Nikon super zoom(500) and the Canon. Problem is, the Nikon has time lapse, and I love playing with time lapse. The Nikon also has less time parallax and the ability to shoot a 5 shot burst in less then a second. Now everyone says the Canon has better IS and does a bit better on AF-which gives a reason to lean toward the Canon.

Is there any “easy” way to zoom in and “hold” the AF and exposure on the Canon? My only experience with a digital is the Canon power shot A80. My main reason for buying this model is that it was one of the very few I could set SS and F stop manual.

The Canon has settings to either focus and "Lock" or to continuously refocus as needed. With constantly wiggling birds, I like the continuous focus.

I have the Nikon P100 which is the immediate predecessor to the P500. The P100 has terrible problems focusing at long zooms such that 9 of 10 shots were not focused. The Canon is very good at focusing and also has far superior image stabilization. Unless you can find hands-on reviews that clearly show that Nikon has fixed its focus problems, I would steer clear.

If you have not read this topic it would be worth your while. What Superzoom? Dissatisfied with the Nikon P100

By the way, I always download the user manual for any new product before i decide to buy. Consider going to the Canon website and get them user manual. It's free comes as a PDF.
 
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