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IS binoculars- the battery issue (1 Viewer)

yarrellii

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I’ve been thinking about using IS binoculars for quite a while, by most accounts they produce some great views, even at low power (as per Pinac’s very interesting account on the amazing performance of the strangely quirky 8x20 Canon). But then I always encounter two barriers.

The first one is my admiration for binoculars as non-electronic devices, as perfect tools of simple durable parts put together without the need of anything but your eyesight, with the reassurance that a 20 year old device like the Nikon E2 still provides great performance, and its parts are in great shape. The beauty of that idea is just trounced by the notion of needing to change batteries once in a while, and also by the fact that binoculars enter the world of small electronic appliances (with its shorter lifespan than non-electronic optics). Add to this the fear of running out of juice in the crucial moment (I just know it will happen to me) and also the idea of having to constantly buy batteries makes IS binoculars seem a steep change (I hardly use batteries for anything, I use a dynamo-powered torch on my bike, I don’t even know what batteries cost anymore). In fact, can you use rechargeable batteries on an IS binocular? I'm not sure about this, and I don't think I've seen USB-rechargeable IS binoculars, the same way we get USB-rechargeable lights.

Well, then I think for a second I can live with all the above and still keep a desire to try some IS binoculars...

... But then there's a second barrier I encounter, one which is probably a bit more subtle: the sustainability of IS binoculars. Without wanting to pester or patronize IS binocular users, I have very simple questions about this (no offense intended whatsoever, just pure curiosity). How long do the batteries last? How many glassing hours can you get from a single charge? In a regular day I can easily put 5 hours on a pair of binoculars. How many days will I get from a single charge?
What do you do with the spent batteries? (I mean, I know there are places where you dispose of them, but since you can end up having quite a large amount of used batteries at home, I find this concerning/intriguing). How many batteries can you end up using in a regular year?

I don’t think I’ve ever seen any comment about the environmental side of using battery-powered IS binoculars, and given the fact that most forum members are birders (and I wouldn’t be surprised if many of them were also members of environmental institutions), I guess I’m not the first one to wonder/worry about this. So, any comment, idea, suggestion, link of interest is really very welcome.

I’d be grateful for any insight into this unknown world :)
Thanks!
 
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Pete, very useful information, as usual, thanks! I didn't know you could use rechargeable batteries. Do you know if there will be a difference in performance between "regular" (single use) and rechargeable? I'm under the impression that there usually is (in other applications). Thank you again.
 
The current Eneloop batteries can be recharged about 1000 times. The white ones.

The professional black ones, slightly larger diameter and problems with a few slightly small Canon IS battery chambers. Maybe 300 times. I'll try to check.

I have had cameras unused for years with Eneloops that immediately work, very impressive.
A comm. radio I have that used old recharge types that lasted perhaps a few weeks of mild use now work for months with white Eneloops.

I get about 300 to 500 photos with 2 white Eneloops on my Canon A720IS compact camera. I don't use the flash, but use the screen and optical viewfinder.

Whether people use Canon IS binoculars seems to be a psychological phenomenon.

The Canon 10x42L IS seems cheap compared to the competition.
But it is complex and bulky. It has maybe a 2 year warranty, but may last 8 years.

My Canon 18x50 IS is 20 years old and outresolves any hand held binocular except the heavier Zeiss 20x60S.

I don't have a smart phone, but nearly everybody else does.
Most things take batteries.

I use normal binoculars unless I need high resolution when I use IS binoculars.

B.
 
Binastro, thank you so much. This is really enlightening.
I was absolutely unaware of the Eneloop batteries (I haven't used rechargeable batteries for about 15 years, I guess the technology has come a long way). This sounds very promising.
I have read your impressions on Canon IS many times, especially about the 15x50 and 18x50, and since I know you are into astronomy and have a wealth of experience with binoculars, it is indeed very inviting.

I use rechargeable camera batteries (the kind of bulky, gun-like, black-cartridge that come with the cameras), but never used cameras that use regular AA batteries.

The short warranty and durability of the Canon IS is indeed a concern, but I've heard many stories of Canon IS lasting for many years (I've also read stories about the rubber padding coming off and getting sticky).
Actually, one of the areas that sparked my interest in IS binoculars is casual astronomy, the Summer season (clear skies and endless hours on the balcony) is here, and I just don't like having my binoculars on a tripod (that kind of spoils the purpose of handheld binocular astronomy), so IS sounds just right. I've read Roger Vine's reviews of the small Canons, 10x30 and 12x36 and I've always been very intrigued.
Thank you again.
 
I have AA lithium primaries in my Canon 14x32. I have had the same set in the binoculars since I first got them and haven't had to replace the batteries yet. They have had many hours of use. I think I read somewhere that you aren't supposed to use lithium AA in the binoculars, but no one is going to tell me what to do and I haven't had any problems yet. NiMh like Eneloop should work well and not be a risk of leaking and damaging the binoculars like standard alkaline cells.

Keep in mind that the Canon 8x20 uses a single 3.0V CR123a primary cell in lieu of two AA cells. There are some less convenient charging solutions that might work for this size, however you are probably better off picking up a multipack of CR123a cells when you first get the binoculars. A $10 multipack would likely last you a very long time.

There is a lot of interest in the 8x20, but I have been waiting patiently to hear impressions of the 10x20.
 
I think I read somewhere that you aren't supposed to use lithium AA in the binoculars, but no one is going to tell me what to do and I haven't had any problems yet.

You read that on page 4 of the 14x32 owners manual.

"In rare cases, some AA-size lithium batteries will reach extremely hightemperatures. For your safety, please refrain from using AA-size lithium batteries."
 
Some battery fires in electronic devices have destroyed homes, which weren't insured for the risk.
I recall a $250,000 case in the U.S. some years ago.

A Boeing 787 was I think destroyed on the ground by inbuilt lithium batteries.

Glass paper weights have also set fire to homes courtesy of the Sun.

Last week I witnessed a very loud explosion and very bright white flash as I watched T.V.
It was 10 feet away.
The power socket must have had a fault. The plug blew out with the pressure. The outlet was blackened.
Luckily the wiring did not catch fire, as I don't know if I could have put out such a fire.
Nearby binoculars were undamaged.

I was surprised the flash was white, not say blue.
My own mini supernova.

Luckily the electrician replaced the socket successfully next morning.
I kept well away with social distancing.

We live in interesting times.

Regards,
B.
 
I'm a devote of lithium batteries for my 10x42IS, they last a long time, perform flawlessly in hot or severe cold and don't leak, unlike regular alkalines. Best is that they go from good to no good very abruptly, so one never has a marginal battery issue.

I used to swear by Eneloops, but no longer do, they have a somewhat lower voltage and can be marginal when needing recharging. I suspect, without any proof, that my first Canon's IS died after 10 years because it had been pressed into use while the on board Eneloops were nearly discharged.
 
Interesting thread.

I have been curious about the stabilized binoculars too, but the things holding me back are similar to some mentioned by Yarrellii: not wanting to run out of batteries or to have to think about recharging them and spare ones (irritating when ‘on the go’), having less confidence in them still working flawlessly after 10+ years (electronics and moveable elements...), the added bulk and weight, and liking the sense of “pure” quality and idea of craftmanship of optical equipment (while I suppose a lot is not made manually anymore...). The latter is probably not so rational and purely subjective and personal. But that matters too |=)|
If buying quality optics, I prefer investing the money in something that will last, from an investment point of view and from an environmental point of view. (I even prefer some 40-60 year old, durable automatic watches you can occasionally find second hand for less than many new battery powered ones, and they are often more beautiful while being more discrete ;) Just hoping not to need a not so cheap servicing very soon, but what a beautiful craftmanship that shouldn’t disappear. I might sound old for someone in his thirties when I say this |<| )

But, if stabilised binoculars can really last for many(!) years and have such a long warranty, I might be tempted in the future.
Kite also started to sell some last year I think, and I plan on testing them if I get a chance to and ask them if their great 25years-warranty/service also applies for those stabilised... If yes, it might be very tempting for 10x or higher magnification binoculars, as sharp optics are not that sharp if not steady... Still, I’ll probably wait for some time, as I’d rather save for a potential upgrade of my most used (8x30) binoculars first. |^|

Regarding batteries: I also try to avoid disposable batteries. From experience, when I still need some, I prefer quality ones to cheap ones. Since a few years, I’m also using Eneloop AA(A) batteries for all the (few) items that still need batteries (HIFI and TV remote control, pointer/presenter, a wireless keyboard and a set of backup bike lights and wireless phone at home) and they are really better than all I’ve had in the past regarding both how long they last on a charge and not failing once (yet...). I use the white ones only for the wireless phone that stays in the charging socket all the time. For other uses, the black ‘pro’ are better (and 300 charges would mean they will work for many years at the rate they discharge and I’m using them). But I didn’t know the black were a bit thicker. I never had an issue with it, but, of course, if they don’t fit inside, that’s a major issue...

Regarding charging over USB:I’ve seen that GoalZero has or had a USB-powered charger for AA(A) batteries. No idea if those are any good. For good battery maintenance, it is recommended to have a good charger (doesn’t cost much for a small one bought in a package deal of Eneloop/Panasonic).
 
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Binastro,


That was an interesting day, a day in the life. You will always look at that wall socket and remember.

Andy W.
 
Regarding the concern expressed over dead batteries in the field... The batteries last a very long time and when the IS is off the binoculars still work as any other just without the IS.
 
Regarding the concern expressed over dead batteries in the field... The batteries last a very long time and when the IS is off the binoculars still work as any other just without the IS.

Plus you can always carry a couple of spare AAs. They aren't that heavy.

I actually think the "battery issue" is an excuse for people to ignore the stabilised binoculars even though they always show you more detail than any conventional binocular ...

Hermann
 
Yarrellii,

There are IS binos that don't use batteries, such as the Zeiss 20x60S and the Russian Farvision 20x50. In the EU the Zeiss can be bought in used but good condition for 2500eur or even less. These binos are not ideal for bird watching, but for the night sky they're beautiful instruments.

Peter
 
I actually think the "battery issue" is an excuse for people to ignore the stabilised binoculars even though they always show you more detail than any conventional binocular

When you face something new and unknown, there is always a certain "degree of resistance" to change. However, in this case (as also expressed by mbb) I would say it is more of a genuine and legitimate concern than an excuse (plus the reasonable ignorance for the unknown). Say you spend 600, 900, 1200 € on a pair of binoculars. That is an awful lot of money, but the promise of stunning performance is a powerful lure. Then you go home and it turns out you need something else to make them work (yes, they will still work without the IS on, but who buys IS binoculars to use them non-IS). I think this is a reasonable source of concern. Plus then there’s the fact that not only you need something else to make your 900 € binoculars work, but it turns out that you have to constantly refill that accessory in order to always be able to use them (with the possibility of forgetting the accessory, or simply running out of it). So, as I said, I think it is a reasonable set of questions around the batteries in an IS binocular that can make a new user think twice about it (this might actually be one of the reasons they are not that popular, if not the only one obviously). Add to it the sustainability/environmental concern (I didn’t know you could use rechargeable batteries with IS binoculars, I thought you could only use disposable ones, hence my question).

For example, as an avid everyday cyclist, I had used batteries for many years before I switched to dynamo powered lights (this was long before USB-rechargeable torches even existed), and it was one of the best decisions I made around my bike. I was fed up with changing batteries, recharging batteries, forgetting batteries. Ever since, for me an everyday bicycle without a dynamo hub is simply a no-no (as is a bicycle without a rack for carrying panniers). So the concern about batteries is something that worries me, both in terms of convenience and sustainability. The fact that there exist rechargeable batteries of a “new generation” that appear to give good performance could be a game-changer for me.

As a side note, as mbb says (and I'm sure you could surely share, since you are a love of the Habicht), there is a certain charm on the craftmanship of pure optical design, like using a good-old knife or a tool (yes, I acknowledge there is also a great charm on using the last hi-tech device, and I think a programmer or an IT engineer can have the same "craftsmanship" approach to his work that a middle-ages carpenter would have. That is to say, there's no disdain of new technology from my side).


PeterPS said:
There are IS binos that don't use batteries
Yes, I know, that's why I wrote "battery-powered IS binoculars" at some point in post. I've always been amazed of the wit and engineering there is in a 20x60 Zeiss. It is something I'd definitely want to try one day (as is a Nikon WX :king:)
 
I had a Zeiss 20x60 IS a few years ago. Enjoyed using them but ultimately felt a bit relieved, when I passed them on, that nothing broke during my watch. Side note, I accepted a bit less to sell them in person. Don't know how well they'd stand up to shipping. Same might be said of electronic/gyro IS bins.
 
I had a Zeiss 20x60 IS a few years ago. Enjoyed using them but ultimately felt a bit relieved, when I passed them on, that nothing broke during my watch. Side note, I accepted a bit less to sell them in person. Don't know how well they'd stand up to shipping. Same might be said of electronic/gyro IS bins.

Afaik, the electronic IS glass stabilization systems are enormously more durable than the mechanical wizardry involved in the Zeiss 20x60 IS. Shipping will not be a problem there.
Electronics are pretty much on/off, so once beyond infant mortality, they will just work, no fine tuning necessary. That is entirely different from the mechanical experience, which relies on proper spring coefficients etc, analog stuff that can perform miracles if appropriately tuned, else not.
 
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Afaik, the electronic IS glass stabilization systems are enormously more durable than the mechanical wizardry involved in the Zeiss 20x60 IS. Shipping will not be a problem there.
Electronics are pretty much on/off, so once beyond infant mortality, they will just work, no fine tuning necessary. That is entirely different from the mechanical experience, which relies on proper spring coefficients etc, analog stuff that can perform miracles if appropriately tuned, else not.

However, from what I hear the Zeiss 20x60S simply works. I know several people who've been using a 20x60S for a *long* time, in all sorts of conditions, and they never had a problem with the stabiliser. I know of two guys who had their 20x60S cleaned, after over 10 years of hard use, but that's about it.

If you drop them you're in for an expensive repair though. I know, I dropped my 20x60S Mono once ... :C

Hermann
 
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