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Digiscoping, is it worth bothering without a top class scope? (1 Viewer)

Davey Leigh

Davey Leigh
Hi
I have an Opticron GS ES 80 ED scope that I am pleased with.
I want to get into digiscoping and have trawled the threads to get an idea of what camera to purchase, maybe a P6000 or Panasonic G1.
I couldn't help noticing that most of the really good shots in the gallery, from the likes of Neil et al, tend to be taken with top scopes, Swarovski/Zeiss/Kowa.

My question? given that I currently produce heavily vignetted hand held record shots, do you think its worth bothering assembling a whole digiscoping rig based upon my comparatively moderate quality scope. I would like to pick out feather details etc...

Any comments appreciated.
Davey
 
Noithing wrong with the scope . It is quite capable of producing good results.

Sounds like a camera issue or a crap tripod.

What do you use now?
 
Davey, I agree with Dafi and reflected on when I began with my much lesser quality scope (non flouride) - guess it depends on how many specific things you want to deal with to get good pics. Dafi's comment on tripod hit home because even though my original was solid it lacked smoothness. Being able to follow the subject and focus and then instant stability is paramount. Eyepiece can also make a significant difference - after the tripod change I switched from an old 20-60 zoom to a new wide angle and could not believe how much CA was gone. It became so much fun at that point I just had to get a new scope.
 
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Thanks for your thoughts.

Current camera is my wife's fugi fd100 5x zoom, bad vingnetting, no aperture priority, hand held. Tripod Venbon Delta V carbon (deal from infocus)

Thinking of HDF 20x or 30x fixed eyepiece with p6000 or G1 camera plus upgrade tripod head to a manfrotto video 700 or 701 with a balance plate. Cable release and adapter.

My concern is that I could go to the extent or aquireing the above but still be quite limited by the scopes optical performance. I must say that as a viewing scope I am happy with the opticron but have never looked through a top range scope like a swarovski, hence the question.

Regards
Davey
 
I would just change my camera first and the nikon is a real jump forwards.

Trying that with the opticron and you will find a whole world of difference!!!

Unless you have money to burn and the need to ignite it. I would try things one step at a time.
 
Thanks for your thoughts.

Current camera is my wife's fugi fd100 5x zoom, bad vingnetting, no aperture priority, hand held. Tripod Venbon Delta V carbon (deal from infocus)

Thinking of HDF 20x or 30x fixed eyepiece with p6000 or G1 camera plus upgrade tripod head to a manfrotto video 700 or 701 with a balance plate. Cable release and adapter.

My concern is that I could go to the extent or aquireing the above but still be quite limited by the scopes optical performance. I must say that as a viewing scope I am happy with the opticron but have never looked through a top range scope like a swarovski, hence the question.

Regards
Davey

Davey ,
The F100 can give reasonable results with the right eyepiece and adapter. It has the most accurate exposures I've seen on a digicam. I have mine made for me here in Hong Kong. Switch it to 12 frame Continuous Mode and you'll get more keepers. Try to avoid shooting moving subjects as its difficult to get sharp images.
For stability build up your eyepiece with rolled cardboard or plastic tube so that the camera lens fits snuggly in it .
Neil.
 
Neil/Dafi

Thanks for the advice, I'm starting with the eyepiece (changing from 20-60 to a fixed) to get rid of the vignetting. I'm going to try in the shop first to make sure. I'll also have a go at a home made adapter and continuous mode for the fd100 before making any other changes.
Very nice to know there's some potential in my current equipment, many thanks.

Davey
 
Davey

Eyepieces you should be looking at are on the link below, note the eye relief

http://http://www.opticron.co.uk/Pages/lowmag-eyepieces.htm

The 40937 model is worth a look at the shop?

Also let us know what tripod/head combo you have?

Also the main thing to remember is that Digiscoped pics in the BF gallery which show really good detail are taken at close distance, the closer to your subject the more feather detail you will have, so add fieldcraft to your list of how to get a sharper picture

Review your pictures constantly and take lots of them

Good luck

Paul
 
Davey

Eyepieces you should be looking at are on the link below, note the eye relief

http://http://www.opticron.co.uk/Pages/lowmag-eyepieces.htm

The 40937 model is worth a look at the shop?

Also let us know what tripod/head combo you have?

Also the main thing to remember is that Digiscoped pics in the BF gallery which show really good detail are taken at close distance, the closer to your subject the more feather detail you will have, so add fieldcraft to your list of how to get a sharper picture

Review your pictures constantly and take lots of them

Good luck

Paul
Paul

Think this is what you meant to post: http://www.opticron.co.uk/Pages/lowmag-eyepieces.htm
 
Just back from Infocus at Barnes. In the end I bought the fixed HDF T 32x as not only does the vignetting disappear with a tweak on the zoom lens but by lucky chance the camera lens fits snugly into the eyecup which then holds the weight of the camera! cable release bracket on the way so might have to improvise something as a safety but for quick pics there is no need for an adapter, this is great for when I am mobile.

Paul, I must say that the view and sharpness for the camera with new 32x eyepiece is a revelation compared to what I was getting before. I didn't look at the low mag ep as I expected to need the extra magnification. I assume opticrons low mag ep's have wider FOV and let more light in, is that right?

My tripod is a carbon fibre Velbon Delta V and PH 157Q head often sold bundled with the scope. Probably not fantastic but very portable. Unfortunately, the head is not perfectly balanced so whatever is in the centre of your scope view when you lock off lends to move off centre when you finish locking off due to a slight movement in the mechanism, frustrating.
 
Just back from Infocus at Barnes. In the end I bought the fixed HDF T 32x as not only does the vignetting disappear with a tweak on the zoom lens but by lucky chance the camera lens fits snugly into the eyecup which then holds the weight of the camera! cable release bracket on the way so might have to improvise something as a safety but for quick pics there is no need for an adapter, this is great for when I am mobile.

Paul, I must say that the view and sharpness for the camera with new 32x eyepiece is a revelation compared to what I was getting before. I didn't look at the low mag ep as I expected to need the extra magnification. I assume opticrons low mag ep's have wider FOV and let more light in, is that right?

My tripod is a carbon fibre Velbon Delta V and PH 157Q head often sold bundled with the scope. Probably not fantastic but very portable. Unfortunately, the head is not perfectly balanced so whatever is in the centre of your scope view when you lock off lends to move off centre when you finish locking off due to a slight movement in the mechanism, frustrating.

A lot of people like the Manfrotto 501 video head for digiscoping. ( I have two of them)
Neil.
 
Davey,

In anwer to your question
"Actually Josef, which eyepiece exactly did you change to that gave good results?" It is a TSE-21WE ( 21x WA) by Kowa designed for the 820 series with a converter I'm using it on my Kowa 883.

I think you will be pleased with your 32x which is a magnification many prefer.

Sounds like your tripod head has the same problem mine had, I ended up with a manfrotto 701RC2. Practice on close subjects with scope and camera and then move on. I'm at the point where most of my work has been close range (30') and some up to 300', everything has to be perfect to get respectable feather detail at 100' IMO.

Good luck.
 
A lot of people like the Manfrotto 501 video head for digiscoping. ( I have two of them)
Neil.

Thanks Neil, are there any particular reasons for that? as in respect to portability the 501 is about twice the weight of the 701 but both have 58mm sliding plate travel distance for balancing. I'm guessing the 501 is more stable?

I tried your suggestion of using continuous shooting which helps. I think the next most significant improvement might be using a shutter release cable.

regards
Davey
 
Hello, I am thinking of getting this scope later this year. I too am interested in pursuing digiscoping, could you please let me know what you think of this scope for digiscoping.

Thanks
Andy.

Andy

I'll let you know when the weather gets good enough to go out!!
I've only just started myself but folks here seem to think the scope is worth it.
Regards
Davey
 
Davey,

I think you will be pleased with your 32x which is a magnification many prefer.

Sounds like your tripod head has the same problem mine had, I ended up with a manfrotto 701RC2. Practice on close subjects with scope and camera and then move on. I'm at the point where most of my work has been close range (30') and some up to 300', everything has to be perfect to get respectable feather detail at 100' IMO.

Good luck.

Thanks for the advice Josef, I'm assuming you are happy with the 701RC2? I'm already very pleased with progress just changing the eyepiece which is great for middle/long distance. However, on Sunday i was so close to a Heron I could only fit the head and neck into view! So I'm now thinking, if the best detailed shots come with close proximity, perhaps it is best to have a low mag fixed eyepiece as well (as recommended yesterday by Paul).
regards
Davey
 
Thanks Neil, are there any particular reasons for that? as in respect to portability the 501 is about twice the weight of the 701 but both have 58mm sliding plate travel distance for balancing. I'm guessing the 501 is more stable?

I tried your suggestion of using continuous shooting which helps. I think the next most significant improvement might be using a shutter release cable.

regards
Davey

Davey,
Solid is always better when digiscoping , although the 701 works to. I'm often out in wind ( mudflats) so stability is important. I use my 501 for my D3 plus 500/4 as well.
Neil.
 
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