Thanks for hints how to setup (though I don't have any E-M1).
What key have you assigned to AE lock? This is useful when shooting BIF in A mode, similar to using M exposure, but with single button operation and working OK is most situations.
Thanks for hints how to setup (though I don't have any E-M1).
What key have you assigned to AE lock? This is useful when shooting BIF in A mode, similar to using M exposure, but with single button operation and working OK is most situations.
Hi Jules,Tord,
I'm trying to understand why you would want to assign AE lock to a button ? On both EM-5 and EM-1 there are 3 modes for AEL/AFL in C-AF. These allow AE to lock on shutter half press or shutter full press. What exactly are you trying to accompllish ?
I've been shooting a few birds yesterday with the EM-1 and the 100-300mm. The improved EVF is a blessing; it is a HUGE improvement over the EM-5 for birding.
Regards
Jules
Hi Jules,
When shooting BIF I try to plan for where I want to capture the subject, where the angle of light is at advantage and expose accordingly. So I first do a measurement by locking exposure while assessing the need for compensation. Similar to manual exposure. I have F1 assigned to this.
Hi Jules,IMO, that makes sense for AFL since the EM-5 is not great at focusing on moving objects but why would you want to that for AEL ? If you set AEL/AFL to Mode 2 for C-AF, it will properly expose when pressing the shutter button fully - you have the same option for S-AF if you prefer. This way, the image will be exposed correctly. Since exposure measurement is done instantly, I don't see why you would want to pre-select it.
Also, I would set the metering mode to Center Weighted. That way, you stand more chances of having the light meter covering the subject when you press the shutter, unless the bird is small and positioned on one of the borders of the image. IMO, Spot Metering is not the best choice for BIF or any small moving object because the probabillities are high that the spot wont be on the target.
Of course, since my expertise on BIF is small to say the least, you may want to take these suggestions with a grain of salt...
Have a good day
J
Hi Jules,
I shoot a burst in high-speed mode while panning. My experience is that the exposure is locked with the first frame, and this is what I want to avoid.
Jules,
Have you noticed the IS on the EM1 acting funny on your scope? I find that if I have it on, and set to the focal length (600mm), that it sometimes vibrates/shudders for a second or so, and then settles down, and that is even when I am holding the scope in my hand. If I dial back to 200mm, it doesn't vibrate, but the IS benifit is greatly reduced. Seems that just the mass of the scope makes the camera think it is locked down on a tripod.
With the lighter weight Nikkor 400/5.6 it is fine, that is to say, it is great!
Hi Jules,
I have had the camera set up exactly the way you suggested. It happens immediately when I half press the shutter, and sometimes happens again during focusing. I was amused by the statement that "You may notice an operating sound or vibration when the image stabilizer is activated". Merde! I feel the whole camera buzzing in my hand and the image is all blurred until it stops. About one second. Maybe it is normal, but it is unsettling. When it goes away the IS seems to work fine, but it keeps coming back.
I put my old Nikkor 135/2.8 on it today and forgot to dial the IS back, and it went crazy! Made all sorts of funny noises. Turned it off right away. Once properly set it was fine, and it is GOOD! Maybe it just doesn't like long lenses. I used IS on my E-30 on the scope all the time and it never acted up. Usually I left it off. On, I got more keepers, but off I got better keepers.
I notice the worst choppiness and slow refresh when the camera is focusing at the same time, that is, all the time in C-AF and while focusing in S-AF. (C-AF is so hopeless with the 50_200 that I only use S-AF.) Once focus is found, it is better. In MF it is ok, but still choppy and jittery at long focal lengths, the longer the worse. It may be the same all the time, but you just notice it much more with long lenses. Maybe the nature of EVFs and we won't get around it until the jack up the refresh rate considerably.
It seems that having Focus Peaking activated has detrimental effects on the EVF in that it automatically sets the refresh rate to normal, even if it was set on high.
http://e-group.uk.net/forum/showthread.php?t=30731&page=2
I didn't find FP all that helpful for MF and have had it off the whole time. The 2x or 5x boost was sufficient. However, as it was on once, it set the refresh rate to normal. I have reset it to high, and I will see tomorrow morning if it is any better. Inside the house now it is not, but I will wait till tomorrow to pass judgement.
I think the noise they are talking about on page 67 is the normal purring you hear when the IS is activated. This is something entirely different. It buzzes like an electric razor. I really think it has to do with the mass of the scope because it only does it on the scope.
In general I am very disappointed in the AF of the E-M1 with FT lenses. It may work fine with mFT lenses, but certainly not with FT. My old E-30 blows it out of the water in that respect, and is not at all far behind my 5DII. They work fine on my even older E-620 and EVEN older E-510, so I know it is not the lenses that are at fault.
More tomorrow....
I have always said the for MF the E-M1 is fantastic. On the scope it is fantastic. No question.
The letdown is that Oly stated very clearly that the AF with FT lenses would be on the same level as the E-5, and that clearly is not the case. Those of us long time Oly guys feel let down. Believe me, it is not just me.
I have been thinking about sending it in to have it checked, but so many others are disappointed by its performance that I think it is just the nature of the beast. Whether I decide to keep it or not for its obvious strong points is still an open question.
I will have to play with focus peaking a bit more to see how accurate it is. It bothered me though that the VF flickers so badly when you use it. Cuts the refresh rate way back. One really nice aspect of the EVF though is being able to stop the manual lenses down and still be able to see something. Big plus there.
Maybe they should have just made the thing a bit bigger so that it could have a decent sized battery, It is a real power hog, and maybe it just needs more amperage to keep everything running.