-
Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.
Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
Nikon Digiscope Pro P1 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter johnruss
- Start date
A quick comment
From the exif data I see that exposure compensation is +0.7 on all but the 3rd shot (which is the best shot). If anything, the exposure compensation should've been -0.3 or so to prevent blow-out of the whites. You would've also had faster shutter-speeds lowering the exposure compensation, as would've zooming back a touch on the camera's zoom.
Maybe try spot metering next time, so the camera get's a better idea of the subject's lighting, rather than having it look at the whole scene with matrix metering.
cheers,
Andy
From the exif data I see that exposure compensation is +0.7 on all but the 3rd shot (which is the best shot). If anything, the exposure compensation should've been -0.3 or so to prevent blow-out of the whites. You would've also had faster shutter-speeds lowering the exposure compensation, as would've zooming back a touch on the camera's zoom.
Maybe try spot metering next time, so the camera get's a better idea of the subject's lighting, rather than having it look at the whole scene with matrix metering.
cheers,
Andy
avan
avan
The pro P1 it's a Nikon digiscoping package: 82ED + 30XDS eyepiece + FSB-3 + P1 camera.
Usualy I use also the EV compensation in the negative side -3 to -1.7 and even -2 in very bright sun. Check your picture with the historygram in the preview mode, it show where you have highlight in your picture and make the necessary correction for the next shot. You can also use the bracketing: mean 3 shots at the time with different exposure.
Usualy I use also the EV compensation in the negative side -3 to -1.7 and even -2 in very bright sun. Check your picture with the historygram in the preview mode, it show where you have highlight in your picture and make the necessary correction for the next shot. You can also use the bracketing: mean 3 shots at the time with different exposure.
Thank you will have to go to the manual to figure this out, however I believe the third shot was letting the camera decide what to do. Which may be the best in bright light situations for me the novice. The other shots were at ISO 100 or 200 and done at the program setting. Thank you again. I thought the mallards were pretty good concidering they were not sitting still, even caught the water coming off the female.Andy Bright said:
johnruss said:
Hi John,
Actually, letting the camera decide in bright light is most likely one of the worst things you can do exposure-wise. That can result in images like the 4th one. If you can find out how to change your EV Comp, I have an easy to follow guideline I have used for years. If I am shooting a light subject against a dark background (a light bird against dark water or a dark bird with white highlights), I dial in -1 EV's of exposure compensation. For a dark subject against a light background (like a bird against a clear sky or a bird in the grass), I dial in +1 EV's of exposure compensation.
Negative EV comp exposes less and Positive EV comp exposes more. Less (negative) exposure to make whites less bright. More (positive) to make darks lighter. These numbers won't be perfect all the time, but they will get you close. If you have an in-camera histogram you can refer to, that should be your guide.
This site has been helpful to me over the years, maybe it will interest you.
Remember the harsher the light, the more you will probably need to use EV compensation. Harsh mid-day lighting will make whites sizzle and cause deep shadows. Morning or late afternoon "golden" light will lessen the difference between the brightest and darkest tones. Meaning that you will have fewer whites "blow out" and the shadows will contain more detail.
I didn't mean for this to come off like a sermon...lol Jus' trying to help
Steve
Last edited:
I really want to thank you all for the comments and advice. I just discovered how to do all the things you have told me and will try them out on my next venture. Will make more mistakes but will learn.SMC2002 said:Hi John,
Actually, letting the camera decide in bright light is most likely one of the worst things you can do exposure-wise. That can result in images like the 4th one. If you can find out how to change your EV Comp, I have an easy to follow guideline I have used for years. If I am shooting a light subject against a dark background (a light bird against dark water or a dark bird with white highlights), I dial in -1 EV's of exposure compensation. For a dark subject against a light background (like a bird against a clear sky or a bird in the grass), I dial in +1 EV's of exposure compensation.
Negative EV comp exposes less and Positive EV comp exposes more. Less (negative) exposure to make whites less bright. More (positive) to make darks lighter. These numbers won't be perfect all the time, but they will get you close. If you have an in-camera histogram you can refer to, that should be your guide.
This site has been helpful to me over the years, maybe it will interest you.
Remember the harsher the light, the more you will probably need to use EV compensation. Harsh mid-day lighting will make whites sizzle and cause deep shadows. Morning or late afternoon "golden" light will lessen the difference between the brightest and darkest tones. Meaning that you will have fewer whites "blow out" and the shadows will contain more detail.
I didn't mean for this to come off like a sermon...lol Jus' trying to help
Steve
Similar threads
