• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

$1K binoculars experiences - Conquest HD, Monarch HG, Tract Toric, GPO Passion HD, Trinovid HD (1 Viewer)

So an $1800 binocular would not meet the criteria. For a new one, that is.

You asked a question - and I shall answer - If that 1800$ binocular was the absolute pinnacle of that companies lineup and met all the exacting requirements to stand equal in both physical and visual / optical qualities, then you would look at it as an addition to the list of the defacto 'top tier' big three known Alpha manufacturers.
 
If a person was to name the best and most alpha binocular made to today, what would it be and how much does it cost?
Ask proponents of the three main contenders and you'll likely get a lot of variation in replies, changing with personal preferences/needs, and then the view that each of us likes differs as well.

One thing is sure, going with what any might tell you is the best, you may find yourself disagreeing with them when you find yourself able to do direct comparisons yourself.

It's been very common to find references to the Swarovski NL as being the pinnacle of binoculardom, only to find there are others preferring a Zeiss SF, Leica Ultravid or Noctivid, and even a few for Swarovski's own SLC.

I'm largely an avowed Leica follower for their combination of overall excellence in a comparably compact package and bought my only Swarovski so far when they delivered on the same set of demands with the 7x21 Curio.

Get to some stores and compare anything you can get your hands on.
 
"I would ad if your interested in buying what is considered the best, and your new to the hobby, that doesn’t mean you’ll see a major difference or if you will see any difference than from a new high mid grade optic in the $1000 range."

If I won't see a major difference, then the law of diminishing returns is on steroids.
 
I think that $1000 mark is a little arbitrary. I do believe that the previous generation (FL, HT, BN’s etc. etc.) to the new kids on the block are still considered in the premium (alpha) category, and can be had for around $1000. Maybe that is what Trinovid was referring to, I’m sure if I’m mistaken he’ll correct me.
I wouldn't say mistaken and I would almost say that the whole subject is arbitrary by nature. I also agree that from my ownership of a Leica BN in direct comparison with their Ultravid cousins, they seem satisfactorily alpha to me as well. In which case it would seem that careful shopping could even reward one with a sub-$500 alpha.
 
So....then it's a prestige thing?

No. A pinnacle of excellence is just that - an unarguable point. If you purchase the pinnacle of any given field of goods, be it cars, boats, aircraft, optics, cameras, you are choosing the de facto best with only the rarest strata of competition. Most of the time it is driven by need, no prestige.
 
If I won't see a major difference, then the law of diminishing returns is on steroids.
No, it's pretty much the same across the board. Unless you use a guitar/torch/wrench and yes, binocular enough, you're totally unlikely to understand why others would spend so much more for benefits you yourself cannot detect.

You can add in horses, bicycles, airplanes, boats, snowmachines ad infinitum - those who use any of them regularly enough can absolutely tell the differences.
 
No. A pinnacle of excellence is just that - an unarguable point. If you purchase the pinnacle of any given field of goods, be it cars, boats, aircraft, optics, cameras, you are choosing the de facto best with only the rarest strata of competition. Most of the time it is driven by need, no prestige.
So there is an actual need to own $3K binoculars. Ok.
 
"I would ad if your interested in buying what is considered the best, and your new to the hobby, that doesn’t mean you’ll see a major difference or if you will see any difference than from a new high mid grade optic in the $1000 range."

If I won't see a major difference, then the law of diminishing returns is on steroids.
I’m not really following your last sentence. But I agree with your overall statement, you may not see the difference. You may not see the difference or much of a difference if your new to the hobby from a $400 to a $1000 binocular. My wife doesn’t see much difference from a $1000 to a $2000 optic, but my son , who’s a novice picks it out in a second and compares the difference’s to looking at something in HD and then switching to 4k video.

So it will come down to how you see the clarity, resolution , brightness , how sharp they are to your eyes, and if that difference is worth it to you depending how deep your pockets are. We won’t even get into the beautiful tactile and luxurious build quality of these ridiculously expensive binoculars.

If you got the money go for it , you’ll never regret buying the best glass. But if you want to see and learn about optics, buy yourself a nice mid level optic and enjoy them for your purposes. Then you will understand what improvements to look for if and when you get the urge to upgrade.

Does that help you?

Paul
 
I have experienced the law of diminishing returns with guitars, for example. I own a bunch of Telecasters. I have an $800 Telecaster that sounds 99.7% as good as my $5000 custom shop Telecaster. It takes experience to hear and feel any difference. But then again, the player has a lot to do with the final output, unlike binoculars. That being said, I would never spend anywhere near $5K on a guitar again. But I do "get it". There is a certain amount of pride in owning "the best".
 
I have experienced the law of diminishing returns with guitars, for example. I own a bunch of Telecasters. I have an $800 Telecaster that sounds 99.7% as good as my $5000 custom shop Telecaster. It takes experience to hear and feel any difference. But then again, the player has a lot to do with the final output, unlike binoculars. That being said, I would never spend anywhere near $5K on a guitar again. But I do "get it". There is a certain amount of pride in owning "the best".
I have a $900 blueridge acustic (China), as well as a Marten D45 about $7000+ , a Taylor 816 about $4000 and the Blueridge easily can compare in sound quality. Although they sound very close there is still a very distinguishable difference in finish, fit and feel. So, yes there is the law of diminishing returns. But when it comes to optics, even though lesser quality than top tier are nice, they lack that sparkle , the oohs and aahs and the wow when you look at something, it kind of takes your breath away.

I don’t wanna sound like a chauvinist here but I’m goin for it, it’s like that woman is very pretty, but that other woman is 10.5, her beauty takes your breath away, I think most folks will understand that. 🤫😉
 
Last edited by a moderator:
One could always go for one of the high end porros to save money.
Holger Merlitz says on his website that some of them are optically as good as the alphas - the only problem - they are heavy, they are clunky, some don't have center focus, some are not water proof, some have a narrow FoV, etc.
My Fujinon 7x50 FMRT is optically great but I bought it for astronomy and it weighs 1.4 kg. Not really a good birding bino. Great for astronomy though. Flat field, very bright and the weight reduces micro jitters (until the arms tire - which takes surprisingly long as they are very nicely balanced).
At the moment I settled for having many bins, some of which have at least one aspect of the top dogs.
I can have a wide angle vintage bino, it will just be a bit blurry at the edges, a bit dim because of old coatings, not water proof, etc.
Or I can have a medium class flat field bino but it will have a narrow FoV, or be mechanically inferior (like the sloppy focus on my Lux HR) or have IF and is dim (like my Komz 7x30).
At some point I'll sell a few, maybe my astro-photography equipment and get an NL Pure 8x42. But at the moment I'm having too much fun hoarding cheap vintage optics.
 
Where the heck did you get that NIB for under $1500? I paid $1700 and change and thought I got good deal.
I think you did too. Mine just came along at the tail end of a long and patient search, and I may have lost more than $200 in terms of hours-of-enjoyment by holding out.
 
I have experienced the law of diminishing returns with guitars, for example.
It's the exact same equation that I posted earlier. If you understand it with guitars, you understand it with all other purchases.
I personally don't even believe in buying new guitars unless they're not available any other way. Never bought a new electric yet, and only new with a handful of acoustics, because they were too new of a model, or just not available on the used market yet.
 
I played my Telecaster copy "Rockinger" while still playing and never bought another electric guitar ever. The pickups were decent, quality was just fine.
Later on I learned playing the flute (Irish traditional). Not having the funds for a nice one by Patrick Olwell I started making my own. Cost for the materials - about 20 € maybe.
But with instruments it's more about the sound, while you can completely neglect other aspects, like looks.
With binos - good glass is expensive. Achieving perfect edge sharpness with a wide FoV is expensive, etc.
 
Undisputed current ‘alpha’:
Leica Noctivid
Swaro NL
Zeiss SF

Undisputed previous gen ‘alpha’:
Leica Ultravid HD +
Nikon EDG
Swaro EL
Zeiss FL

Arguable ‘alpha’:
Leica Trinovid (Retrovid)
Swaro SLC
Zeiss SFL
Kowa Genesis
Vortex UHD
Meopta Meostar
some may even add a few 1000-1200 usd bins here too

I didn’t add porro to the lists above but obvious would be Nikon SE and Swaro Habicht

I’m good with 1k binos these days. They’re close enough. But if I have the money I wouldn’t mind a Noctivid 8x32
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 2 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top