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8x vs 10x
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<blockquote data-quote="Stephen Prower" data-source="post: 3366259" data-attributes="member: 115634"><p>The-Wanderer</p><p></p><p>1. You asked Bill:</p><p></p><p></p><p>2. You replied to me:</p><p></p><p></p><p>3. I am not a spectacle-wearer. I pass on the other methods described by the webpage.</p><p></p><p>I hope Bill will forgive me answering both replies, since they treat related subject matter, together.</p><p></p><p>4. Bill described his method as intended for observing 'raptors-in-the-crags' with larger binoculars: ie a scenario where there should be no need to adjust focussing once focus has been initially set.</p><p></p><p>I have since tried out the method using a large porro: the Swift 10x50 Newport MkII. I am right-eye dominant. My left hand passes comfortably up between the barrels of the Newport to join the right hand gripping the bell of the right barrel. The left barrel ends up naturally resting on the left wrist.</p><p></p><p>If you only tried out the method using a dual-hinge roof, I can understand your mystification. The method, as a consequence of the width of gap needed for the non-dominant hand to pass between the barrels, seems to apply only to porros.</p><p></p><p>5. Bill emphasised: 'Using BOTH hands, hold ONLY ONE telescope as far out as possible on the objective bell.'</p><p></p><p>I tried out the method too soon, without going back and re-reading the key passages of Bill's posting: (a) The mention of 'raptors-in-the-crags' (ie method intended for use in circumstances where focussing not required); and (b) The insistence that the method involve holding the bell of the dominant barrel with BOTH hands.</p><p></p><p>So I accidentally hit upon holding the binocular in the manner that I described: also asymmetric as to the position of the hands, but not nearly so daringly asymmetric as it would have been if I had correctly followed Bill's method.</p><p></p><p>The method worked so well for me that, before attempting to crack the utility, when observing with fixed-focus, of resting the non-dominant barrel upon the wrist, I submitted a preliminary posting.</p><p></p><p>6. I offer you my method as an also asymmetric, possible variation* of Bill's method that:</p><p>a) Should work with roofs</p><p>b) Should, according to the position of the focusser, allow the non-dominant hand to operate the focusser.</p><p></p><p>The method certainly worked with a conventional single-hinged Camlink 8x42 Rutland roof that I tested it out upon.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Stephen</p><p></p><p></p><p>* I say 'variation' because Bill's method comprehends not just steadying a heavy or powerful binocular, but also balancing the binocular, and laying it in a particular manner, which some may find an improvement, led by the dominant eye upon the bird</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Stephen Prower, post: 3366259, member: 115634"] The-Wanderer 1. You asked Bill: 2. You replied to me: 3. I am not a spectacle-wearer. I pass on the other methods described by the webpage. I hope Bill will forgive me answering both replies, since they treat related subject matter, together. 4. Bill described his method as intended for observing 'raptors-in-the-crags' with larger binoculars: ie a scenario where there should be no need to adjust focussing once focus has been initially set. I have since tried out the method using a large porro: the Swift 10x50 Newport MkII. I am right-eye dominant. My left hand passes comfortably up between the barrels of the Newport to join the right hand gripping the bell of the right barrel. The left barrel ends up naturally resting on the left wrist. If you only tried out the method using a dual-hinge roof, I can understand your mystification. The method, as a consequence of the width of gap needed for the non-dominant hand to pass between the barrels, seems to apply only to porros. 5. Bill emphasised: 'Using BOTH hands, hold ONLY ONE telescope as far out as possible on the objective bell.' I tried out the method too soon, without going back and re-reading the key passages of Bill's posting: (a) The mention of 'raptors-in-the-crags' (ie method intended for use in circumstances where focussing not required); and (b) The insistence that the method involve holding the bell of the dominant barrel with BOTH hands. So I accidentally hit upon holding the binocular in the manner that I described: also asymmetric as to the position of the hands, but not nearly so daringly asymmetric as it would have been if I had correctly followed Bill's method. The method worked so well for me that, before attempting to crack the utility, when observing with fixed-focus, of resting the non-dominant barrel upon the wrist, I submitted a preliminary posting. 6. I offer you my method as an also asymmetric, possible variation* of Bill's method that: a) Should work with roofs b) Should, according to the position of the focusser, allow the non-dominant hand to operate the focusser. The method certainly worked with a conventional single-hinged Camlink 8x42 Rutland roof that I tested it out upon. Stephen * I say 'variation' because Bill's method comprehends not just steadying a heavy or powerful binocular, but also balancing the binocular, and laying it in a particular manner, which some may find an improvement, led by the dominant eye upon the bird [/QUOTE]
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8x vs 10x
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