24 August: The Pipeline Road (extended version)
Our early morning drive yielded more views of White-coated Titi Monkeys but no cats. In the compound, on our return, we had a couple of Blue-crowned Parakeets and a Scaly-headed Parrot before finding a
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet flycatching and gleaning in the tree the Fork-tailed Flycatcher had previously adopted. The House Wren teased from a dense bush, staying always with too much twiggage in front of it for pictures.
Today was our day for the Big Pipeline Road drive: Westward to the edge of the National Park, 107 km away. We took with us a picnic lunch to eat at the far end ranger station, which turned out to be disused and partly locked up: the toilets had been drained down, slightly disappointing! But I’m getting ahead of myself….
On the outbound leg we stopped for a
Red-legged Tortoise that was stumping along at the side of the track. We dismounted for a better look and to take pictures before it could run off. Speedy things, tortoises, go like hell, I’ve missed out on pix of them before because of it. We stopped to install another drinking trough and while the work was going on Hugo found us more birds: A
Great Antshrike and then a
White-fronted Woodpecker that both allowed photos and a
Suiriri Flycatcher that didn’t.
Moving on again we saw several Gray Brockets, Steve saw a Black-tailed Marmoset briefly and we also encountered more Crab-eating Foxes one of which was photographable, unusual during the day from my limited experience. Just as we arrived at the ranger station another Gray Brocket walked into the open and paused before continuing slowly across the wide clearing around the compound right in front of us. It was a superb photo-opportunity and we made good use of it. Then it was lunchtime, with chicken wings, salads and pastries enough for all of us.
After lunch we continued along the track and stopped by the airfield that serves the pipeline employees quartered on this section. Hugo wanted to check on occupancy of a known Jaguar breeding tunnel under the airstrip. Our gallant guide lay down at the entrance and shone a torch up it. I stood on top of the concrete revetment surrounding the pipe entrance on the basis that any angry cat would come out at Hugo and would have to do a 180 to get to me. In the past Hugo had twice found a female Jaguar in this way, once with cubs. After he got back up from his check I asked him what the Jaguar felt about that. “She was quite angry,” he admitted. Flippin’ heck! Mind you, if he’d got back up and said there was a Jag up the tunnel I’d have got down and looked…..
We crossed the airstrip, encountering three Nacunda Nighthawks that obligingly flew around after we’d got roosting pictures, allowing us to get flight shots as well. The other end of the tunnel was also empty of big cats. We heard Peccaries in the woods but didn’t get views. There was also a Gilded-bellied Emerald that gave us good views but unfortunately the light was poor due to cloud cover.
Back in the vehicle we continued towards where the Pipeline Road left the national park, scoring a
White-barred Piculet on the way. As we reached the gate there was a Seriema on the road and in the half second before it ran off I thought I saw black legs and a crest. We debussed and Hugo asked if we’d like him to call it back in. Oh yes please! He deployed his phone and speaker and after a short burst of Black-legged Seriema calls it came out onto the track on the far side of the gate and stood right out in the open watching us before beginning to pace about. To our surprise a Crab-eating Fox also appeared on the track and moved towards the
Black-legged Seriema cautiously, never getting very close to it but pacing about nearby as the bird did much the same. Dances with Foxes!
Returning the way we had come we found a group of three
Monk Parakeets sitting up on cactus and giving excellent views. This was another upgrade from a previous feral tick and much appreciated. Just after that we began to see more and more Bare-faced Curassows strutting about the track in small groups. By the time we’d passed the last group we’d seen over twenty!
Back at the airfield we stopped because there was another fox sauntering across it and it wasn’t a Crab-eating Fox! We took hurried pictures of it in motion before it sat down near the bushy edge of the strip and allowed us to take our time recording it looking at us in an interested but wary way. Hugo told us it was “Yellow-legged Fox” which later googling identified as the local term for Pampas Fox but the markings seemed spot on Culpeo, which was bizarre. Steve kindly put his photo out there on Mammalwatching.com when we returned and the congregation confirmed it was a
Pampas Fox.
The return drive was singularly uneventful.
John
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet
Five assorted moths on the ceiling and walls of the veranda. If anybody has a clue then feel free....





