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Binoculars
Benefits of 10x binos ?
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<blockquote data-quote="Chosun Juan" data-source="post: 3456757" data-attributes="member: 92780"><p>Hi GiGi :hi:</p><p></p><p>I think 10x (or more) vs 8x (or less) is a bit like an Italian automotive thoroughbred revving at 8000rpm + , vs a more pedestrian 6000rpm (that most shopping trolleys these days handle) ..... things just need to be designed and engineered to a whole 'nuther level if they are going to hang together and bring the 'brio' ! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />)</p><p></p><p>I always say that the 10x will outdo an 8x about 20% of the time, doing what no 8x will do ..... for the rest of the time an 8x will be better. It's just a matter of how much you value that 20% of the time (or how well it matches your specialist viewing and environment at the time <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p>There are quite a few real tradeoffs with the 10x, chief among these are:</p><p>* Thin dof - though this can be used to advantage in isolating a subject - but will struggle more trying to pull geewhizzits out of dense thickets.</p><p>* More CA - bins need to be top dawgs in order for this drawback not to take over</p><p>* Less ER - depending on your glasses/face/eyecup design etc, this can mean the difference between make or break ...</p><p>* Less EP - unless you start to up the objective size too (but then there goes the weight)</p><p>* Both of these together can tip you over the threshold from good 'ease of view' to being barely useable, compromised, or even unsuitable - again, only the top dawgs will have this sorted without significant compromise in other areas.</p><p>* Magnified shakes - to get a good baseline on this, take all of your bins out at night and try and hand hold on a single star - you'll soon see the amount of shakes you really have even with lower powered bins. Ergonomics is as least as important as the actual power used in my view. </p><p>* Less Real Field of View - okay this goes without saying, and often a 10x will have greater AFOV which can make for a very pleasant view. 10x bliss starts at 120m FOV for me. The reduced real field can impose limitations at critical times sometimes - the best example I can think of this is when two raptors are circling each other - you want both in sight at all times - very annoying to have to choose one or the other, or miss a critical bit of action, as in the first one to peel off at the end of the thermal, and rapidly glide elsewhere, or initiate closer contact when courting, or territorial disputes, etc.</p><p></p><p>To me the 10x50 SV is top dog - but then it's also a Kilo in weight too. With your particular conflicting requirements - ER, EP, FOV, CA, AND Light Weight, you are left with quality engineered, limited choice of, and expensive bins to try. There's no free lunches here! :eek!:</p><p></p><p>I would steer well clear of any 10x32's ....</p><p></p><p>I would suggest trialing the following:-</p><p>Nikon MHG 10x42</p><p>Minox APO 10x43</p><p>Vortex Razor HD 10x42</p><p>Zeiss FL 10x42</p><p>Zeiss SF 10x42</p><p></p><p>I would also seriously try the Canon 12x36 IS III .... it may just be the perfect solution. (For me it was too small, and did not fit my hands, making it unsteadier than it should be, and a contortion to reach the IS button. ER was right on the limit for me with eye cups folded all the way down. Otherwise a Super view. I know the EP is only 3mm, but it doesn't seem that way - it has a lovely ease of view. Awesome 'Clarity'. If the ergos worked for me then I'd have one. If it works for you, then problem solved. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> :cat:</p><p></p><p>Another suggestion from out of left field is - does anyone make a 'doubler' for your 7x42 UVHD+ ? .... not a full time solution obviously, but a quick connect 14x 'scope' might be interesting ........ :cat:</p><p></p><p>Hopefully one of those suggestions gels with you in the hand, and up to the eye. It would make a nice addition to your little collection. :t:</p><p></p><p>Honestly, we can all see the writing on the wall! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /> .... nothing less than a complete set will suffice for you! At least ....</p><p>6x32</p><p>7x42 UVHD+</p><p>8x32 (SV?)</p><p>10x42 (Hmm, which one of those I mentioned above?? <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p>12x36 IS III</p><p></p><p>Hahaha! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />) 8-P ..... just give in already!</p><p></p><p></p><p>Chosun :gh:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Chosun Juan, post: 3456757, member: 92780"] Hi GiGi :hi: I think 10x (or more) vs 8x (or less) is a bit like an Italian automotive thoroughbred revving at 8000rpm + , vs a more pedestrian 6000rpm (that most shopping trolleys these days handle) ..... things just need to be designed and engineered to a whole 'nuther level if they are going to hang together and bring the 'brio' ! :)) I always say that the 10x will outdo an 8x about 20% of the time, doing what no 8x will do ..... for the rest of the time an 8x will be better. It's just a matter of how much you value that 20% of the time (or how well it matches your specialist viewing and environment at the time :) There are quite a few real tradeoffs with the 10x, chief among these are: * Thin dof - though this can be used to advantage in isolating a subject - but will struggle more trying to pull geewhizzits out of dense thickets. * More CA - bins need to be top dawgs in order for this drawback not to take over * Less ER - depending on your glasses/face/eyecup design etc, this can mean the difference between make or break ... * Less EP - unless you start to up the objective size too (but then there goes the weight) * Both of these together can tip you over the threshold from good 'ease of view' to being barely useable, compromised, or even unsuitable - again, only the top dawgs will have this sorted without significant compromise in other areas. * Magnified shakes - to get a good baseline on this, take all of your bins out at night and try and hand hold on a single star - you'll soon see the amount of shakes you really have even with lower powered bins. Ergonomics is as least as important as the actual power used in my view. * Less Real Field of View - okay this goes without saying, and often a 10x will have greater AFOV which can make for a very pleasant view. 10x bliss starts at 120m FOV for me. The reduced real field can impose limitations at critical times sometimes - the best example I can think of this is when two raptors are circling each other - you want both in sight at all times - very annoying to have to choose one or the other, or miss a critical bit of action, as in the first one to peel off at the end of the thermal, and rapidly glide elsewhere, or initiate closer contact when courting, or territorial disputes, etc. To me the 10x50 SV is top dog - but then it's also a Kilo in weight too. With your particular conflicting requirements - ER, EP, FOV, CA, AND Light Weight, you are left with quality engineered, limited choice of, and expensive bins to try. There's no free lunches here! :eek!: I would steer well clear of any 10x32's .... I would suggest trialing the following:- Nikon MHG 10x42 Minox APO 10x43 Vortex Razor HD 10x42 Zeiss FL 10x42 Zeiss SF 10x42 I would also seriously try the Canon 12x36 IS III .... it may just be the perfect solution. (For me it was too small, and did not fit my hands, making it unsteadier than it should be, and a contortion to reach the IS button. ER was right on the limit for me with eye cups folded all the way down. Otherwise a Super view. I know the EP is only 3mm, but it doesn't seem that way - it has a lovely ease of view. Awesome 'Clarity'. If the ergos worked for me then I'd have one. If it works for you, then problem solved. :) :cat: Another suggestion from out of left field is - does anyone make a 'doubler' for your 7x42 UVHD+ ? .... not a full time solution obviously, but a quick connect 14x 'scope' might be interesting ........ :cat: Hopefully one of those suggestions gels with you in the hand, and up to the eye. It would make a nice addition to your little collection. :t: Honestly, we can all see the writing on the wall! ;) .... nothing less than a complete set will suffice for you! At least .... 6x32 7x42 UVHD+ 8x32 (SV?) 10x42 (Hmm, which one of those I mentioned above?? :) 12x36 IS III Hahaha! :)) 8-P ..... just give in already! Chosun :gh: [/QUOTE]
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