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<blockquote data-quote="OPTIC_NUT" data-source="post: 3162541" data-attributes="member: 121951"><p>I checked the hardness of Bon Ami... it's 0.5-1.0 over the MgF or amber-multi I usually encounter.</p><p>Bon Ami is designed to not abrade, while glass polish is specifically designed to remove glass.</p><p>But...at a 1.0 Mohs difference, I am forewarned. I have preserved, even to the point of correct color,</p><p>the coating, but it could go too far. The use of windex has drastically reduced the Bon Ami.</p><p>Remove all biofilms you can with with that stuff first, is my takeaway from this. </p><p></p><p>Valuable glass and stone monuments often have graffiti blasted off with walnut shell particles.</p><p>I wonder if there is some very fine walnut shell or peach pit powder.</p><p></p><p>One thing about modern multi-multi layers. It takes very little residue at all to mess up the</p><p>whole phase/filter response. Most layers are small thickness and high index.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="OPTIC_NUT, post: 3162541, member: 121951"] I checked the hardness of Bon Ami... it's 0.5-1.0 over the MgF or amber-multi I usually encounter. Bon Ami is designed to not abrade, while glass polish is specifically designed to remove glass. But...at a 1.0 Mohs difference, I am forewarned. I have preserved, even to the point of correct color, the coating, but it could go too far. The use of windex has drastically reduced the Bon Ami. Remove all biofilms you can with with that stuff first, is my takeaway from this. Valuable glass and stone monuments often have graffiti blasted off with walnut shell particles. I wonder if there is some very fine walnut shell or peach pit powder. One thing about modern multi-multi layers. It takes very little residue at all to mess up the whole phase/filter response. Most layers are small thickness and high index. [/QUOTE]
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