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Message: <blockquote data-quote="stavrouchris" data-source="post: 1682001" data-attributes="member: 81971">Morocco Dec 2007MOROCCODecember 2007 Birding Trip ReportBy: Chris StavrouPhotos: Joseph MichaelMorocco lies on one of the main migratory routes to Europe on the African side of the Gibraltar Straights. It’s wide variety of habitats, ranging from the high Atlas Mountains to fertile plantations, river outlets and deserts make it a haven for birdwatchers. The high percentage of endemic species, the 414 species that have been recorded but also the hospitality of the Moroccan people, make it a desirable destination popular with birders worldwide.Without a doubt the best time to visit would be during the spring migration but we took the opportunity to escape the cold European winter and avoid the busy tourist season by going at the beginning of December. With all endemic species present and a hit list of around 45 species, the expectations were high.We set off from a rainy London on the morning flight to Marrakech getting in just after noon hoping to get our first taste of Moroccan avifauna that same day. So, both myself and Joseph Michael, a keen birder and photographer, picked up our rented car and headed for the coastal town of Agadir were we hoped to spend the next day in the Souss-Massa National park looking for the famous but world threatened Bald Ibis.The 300km journey to Agadir took around 5 ½ hours including 3 random stops for birding. The roads in Morocco are generally good but require a lot of attention due to the slow moving lorries and bicycle that are plentiful when driving through towns and villages. The first birds we saw as we were leaving the airport were Spotless Starlings while in olive groves we spotted Common Bulbuls, Southern Grey Shrike of the algeriensis sub species and Chaffinches (africana).With an early start before dawn the next day we headed north to the small town of Tamri, which holds one of the most reliable sites of the Bald Ibis. It is evidence of how famous the bird is in that area, that anyone carrying binoculars or camera is soon swarmed by locals offering to show you the birds (for a small fee of course). We started our search along the north coast of the estuary, making our way along the steep banks towards the mouth of the river. With Chiffchaffs, Sardinian Warblers, Crested Larks and White Wagtails (subpersonata) always present our first cause for joy came with a splendid male Moussier’s Redstart. Soon we were approached by a boy of about 12 offering to show us the Ibis. More to humour him than anything else, we agreed to let him lead the way so he started walking in the exact same direction as we were heading! Another 10min walk and I heard the boy shouting “Monsieur, Monsieur!” and pointing to the sky. He had done as he had promised and pointed to two Bald Ibis which were circling above and gave us good views through the telescope. The boy demanded 100Dhs (we spent 35 on a three course meal the night before).  We laughed but gave him 50 anyway.At the mouth of the estuary there were thousands of gulls, the most common of which were Audouin’s Gulls. On the drive back we spotted another flock of around 17 Bald Ibis resting on the sea cliffs by the side of the road. As we stopped the car to get a closer look they all got up and flew out of sight around the coast……no doubt to be disturbed by the next wave of birdwatchers. Heading back south, we spent the afternoon at Souss-Massa National Park. The North fringe of the park is where the Oued (river) Souss meets the sea. There we spotted a good variety of waders, but more spectacularly a couple of Ospreys and a Barbary Falcon in an aerial combat with a Kestrel.Further south lays the mouth of Oued Massa which is the most northerly Sahara wadi in Morocco. A sand-bank blocks the mouth of the river forming a lake which is connected to the ocean only at the highest tides. This area is one of the last haunts of the Slender-billed Curlew. At the entrance of the park, registered guides offer to walk you through the park and talk to you about its history and wild life. With only a few hours of daylight we recruited Hassan Baitar (+212 66533336), a guide and Naturalist with a hope that he could help us take more birds off our hit list. The number of birds on the estuary was amazing and we started to regret that we only had a few hours to cover such a large area. But while we were there, we saw Squacco Herons, Glossy Ibis, Spoonbills and Flamingos, while resident Barn Swallows together with Plain Martins flew above. Along the higher ground, Hassan patiently looked for the Black Crowned Tchagra without success, but instead showed us some Barbary Partridges and we also got close views of Moroccan Magpies P.p.mauritanica with the blue patch behind the eye. On our way out a beautiful Black-winged Kite was sitting on telephone wires.Agadir being a tourist resort with plenty of hotels, bars and restaurants is a prime destination for winter surfing as the Atlantic swell and Moroccan sunshine is guaranteed. We would have liked to stay longer but we had a lot of ground to cover and new species to uncover. Early the next day we headed east along the Souss Valley, South of the Atlas towards the town of Ouarzazate - a journey of c400Km.  We took our time and so the journey took us until sundown. A detour to an argana forest proved totally fruitless while a walk along the Oued Souss at Aoulouz with its wide gorge and fresh flowing water was more relaxing rather than productive. We spotted a Long-legged Buzzard of the cirtensis sub species, similar plumage but a much smaller bird that the version we get in Cyprus. We took plenty of photographs of Crested/Thekla Larks for later review. Familiar species were evident such as Grey Wagtail, Black Redstart, Blue Rock Thrush, Black Redstart, Cetti’s Warbler and Gold Finches. As we headed more inland we stopped at a village and picked out White Crowned and Black Wheatears. Over night stay at Ouarzazate with another tajine for evening meal, a Moroccan speciality of meat, vegetables and spices cooked in the trade mark cone-shaped clay pots.Next day with only 200Km to reach Boumalene du Dades, we intended to take more stops with longer walks.  The scenery was becoming stony and dry and was being broken, from time to time, by oasis and palm groves. From our hotel balcony looking across the town square House Buntings (sahari) were mixing in with the House Sparrows. The splendid Taourirt Kasbah held a pair of White Storks on their 3 meter high nest. Along the neighbouring reservoir, Barrage El-Mansour Eddahbi, there were hundreds of Cormorants, Little Egrets, and Grey Herons and on the rocky fields Short-toed Larks and Trumpeter Finch. Trumpeter Finch, Bucanetes githagineusNight stay at the beautifully decorated and birdwatcher friendly Hotel Le Soleil Blue (+212 24830163) at Boumalene du Dades. A must stop-over for every birding group as the owner, Mr Mustafa, is an enthusiastic naturalist who is campaigning to have a large area around the gorges turned into a protected national park. The hotel also boasts a 2 inches thick book with sightings from previous guests. It’s an excellent way to find out what has been spotted recently but also turning back to the same dates of previous years.The next day we drove along the well documented Tagtilt track. A scatter of earth roads heading south passing through an unregulated rubbish dump. It’s a little ironic that while we constantly strive to keep the country side free from the human produced waste, this dump site with the scatter of plastic bags was teaming with birdlife and rats for that matter. A large flock of Sky Lark mixed with Lesser Short-toed Lark greeted us. We got good views of Thick-billed and Temminck’s Larks while also the much sought after Red-rumped Wheatear.Red-rumped Wheatear, Oenonthe moesta            Thick-billed Lark, Rumphocoris clotheyOur journey continued for ever eastward the next day in search for the desert dwelling species. In the afternoon we walked along a wadis (dry river) east of Efroud and on the fringes of the Sahara desert were we quickly spotted Tristram’s Warblers. From here on we were entering into the desert and without of a four-wheel drive car we recruited the help of a young guide, Mohammed (+212 68624181) who knows the area like the back of his hand. He was an excellent off road driver that got us out of trouble a number of times. So for the next two days Mohammed drove us everywhere showing us all the lakes, small water ponds, wadis and palm cultivations. His services were invaluable and we can’t thank him enough for the truly desert experience (even in a Fiat Punto!). For 2 nights we stayed at Auberge La Caravene (+212 61351654). Right on the edge of Erg Chebbi sand dunes, being off-season we had the place to our selves. The rooms were clean and spacious and the hosts friendly and hospitable. In the morning we woke up to views of the smart Desert Sparrow in the back yard overlooking the dunes. The Desert Sparrow is like House Sparrow dressed a pin-striped grey suit. Desert Sparrow, Passer simplexFrom the hotel grounds we could see Hoopoe Larks and Bar-tailed Larks while driving further south in palm groves we spotted Laughing Doves, Fulvus Babbler and Brown-necked Ravens. The highlight of the day was when we reached a large lake at the edge of the small village of Merzouga. There amongst the Shellducks, Ruddy Shellducks, Pintails and Flamingos we were overjoyed to seek out in the open, the illusive and rare Marbled Duck. As a token of thanks and appreciation toward our guide and hosts at the hotel we decided to celebrate with a few bottles of wine. The gesture was well accepted so we sat around candle light talking about the desert and singing to Bob Marley on Joseph’s IPod. Mr. Idir, our young hotel manager, told us of a 4 hour drive to where the Houbara Bastards thrive. He told us of the Saudis that every year come and hunt them down with their falcons. Once a common sight the Houbara has now declined and been driven further away. He promised on our next visit that he would show us the Houbara and we in return will give him a bottle of finest scotch whiskey. Apparently the best present you can offer a nomad in the desert is a bottle of whiskey.A full week now into our trip without a single cloud in the sky. The last habitat that needed to be explored was the forests and the high altitudes of the Atlas Mountains. With 350km to cover back to Ouarzazate we had to get a move on as driving at night in Morocco is not very pleasant. One last look for the Desert and Scrub Warblers along a wadis proved fruitless.Of course we could not resist another quick look along the Tagtilt track on the way back. And what a great stop it was. As we stopped the car to look at a small group of Thick-billed Larks, we spotted a large falcon in the distance and flying in our direction. It was clearly on a hunting mission as it stooped and turned on powerful wings. It past right over us and we could see clearly that it was nothing else but a majestic adult Lanner Falcon of the N.African sub-species erlangeri.After staying overnight in Ouarzazarte, the journey back to Marrakech would be completed by taking the Tichi-n-Tichka pass, through the Middle Atlas mountains.  We had the perfect weather to negotiate the 4167m high Atlas.After a couple fruitless stops, we continued through the Atlas Mountains along its winding roads, without any expectations.  At one point on our decent, a large flock of Chough (c150) flew overhead and landed within 10m of our car. Landing on grassy fields, poking their long beaks and echoing their familiar “chough chough” calls. At the same spot, on the opposite side of the road where a small stream run, a large number of Rock Sparrows were seen, along with several Horned Larks.Next stop was at the Forest House to look for the endemic Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker.  There was nothing of note at the entrance, but we persisted and climbed directly up the mountain until a dirt road was found.  We then followed the road and reached a plateau which seems to host a camp area with several houses. The area was densely forested with pines, firs and cedars. Here we saw Greater Spotted Woodpecker (3), Common Crossbill, Coal Tits, Firecrest, Hawfinch and more Chaffinches. Disappointed with no Green Woodpecker we headed down to Marrakech where our birding expedition would come to an end.We spent the last day and a half in the obscure world of the souqs, storytellers and snake charmers of Marrakech while feasted on the local delicacies of snail soup, kebabs and sheep’s head.A total of 112 species recorded, 34 of them were new to me. A highly recommended destination and we will surely visit Morocco again.Books used on our journey:A Birdwatcher’s Guide to Morocco, by Patrick and Fedora BergierA Birdwatching Guide to Morocco, by Pete Combridge and Alan SnookCollins Bird GuideLonely Planet Morocco</blockquote>

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