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Digiscoping with Fuji X-T1 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Werner H.
- Start date
APO TLS versus Afocal
Great shots with good detail. Do you prefer the APO against using a lens. I have recently tried the XT-1 with a 27mm f 2.8 lens & the results have been quite good up to 15-20M distance. (The combined f No is 8.4 when using the 25X magnification.) I prefer this lens because you get no vignetting & the lens movement for focusing is very small. I do have problems with getting the right exposure depending on the amount of contrast. Interesting camera & scope combination.
Regards
Grundy
Great shots with good detail. Do you prefer the APO against using a lens. I have recently tried the XT-1 with a 27mm f 2.8 lens & the results have been quite good up to 15-20M distance. (The combined f No is 8.4 when using the 25X magnification.) I prefer this lens because you get no vignetting & the lens movement for focusing is very small. I do have problems with getting the right exposure depending on the amount of contrast. Interesting camera & scope combination.
Regards
Grundy
Werner H.
Well-known member
Hi Grundy,
thank you first.
You also can apply the Fuji 35/1,4 and the 56/1,2 = 85 mm on the X-T1.
No vignetting with the 35/1,4 and very light vignetting with the 56/1,2.
The APO is very suitable for near distance from about 6 to 20 meters.
The X-T1 is very good for higher Iso up to 3200.
For videoscoping I really prefer the Sony RX100 MKIII. Very easy to handle and great results mostly.
Photos of the combi will follow.
regards Werner
thank you first.
You also can apply the Fuji 35/1,4 and the 56/1,2 = 85 mm on the X-T1.
No vignetting with the 35/1,4 and very light vignetting with the 56/1,2.
The APO is very suitable for near distance from about 6 to 20 meters.
The X-T1 is very good for higher Iso up to 3200.
For videoscoping I really prefer the Sony RX100 MKIII. Very easy to handle and great results mostly.
Photos of the combi will follow.
regards Werner
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O.Reville1989
I started off with nothing and I've still got some
Great photos! I did briefly try the 35mm with this camera on my kowa and the results were very good.
Having exposure challenges with X-T1
I've just started using the X-T1 with 27mm pancake on a Zeiss 85mm with 20-75 eyepiece. I have very little vignetting. I find that auto focus doesn't always get the right focus; often need to tweak the focus on the scope.
I have had challenges with exposure, particularly when shooting in lower light. When I depress the shutter half way to focus and determine exposure, the image becomes brighter proportional to a smaller aperture. If I choose f2.8, no change. I often use f8 for birding for DOF and this greatly increases the brightness on the viewfinder/LCD and on the captured image. Doesn't happen when shooting subjects lit by full sunlight. Happens whether I use auto or manual exposure, P or A, and a number of other setting choices.
Camera and lens work fine without the scope.
Have you experienced this and found a solution?
Thx
Bob
I've just started using the X-T1 with 27mm pancake on a Zeiss 85mm with 20-75 eyepiece. I have very little vignetting. I find that auto focus doesn't always get the right focus; often need to tweak the focus on the scope.
I have had challenges with exposure, particularly when shooting in lower light. When I depress the shutter half way to focus and determine exposure, the image becomes brighter proportional to a smaller aperture. If I choose f2.8, no change. I often use f8 for birding for DOF and this greatly increases the brightness on the viewfinder/LCD and on the captured image. Doesn't happen when shooting subjects lit by full sunlight. Happens whether I use auto or manual exposure, P or A, and a number of other setting choices.
Camera and lens work fine without the scope.
Have you experienced this and found a solution?
Thx
Bob
Werner H.
Well-known member
Hi Bob,
I shoot always in manual mode at full aperture and focus peaking.
I do not know these problems. Every program A or S is an automatic an good for nothing.
Try it with the manual mode. Set the shutter to electronic shutter (ES i.e. no vibrations).
Take the new SD-cards with UHS-II which are much more faster than every card on the market.
Take the highspeed modus (CH).
rgds Werner
I shoot always in manual mode at full aperture and focus peaking.
I do not know these problems. Every program A or S is an automatic an good for nothing.
Try it with the manual mode. Set the shutter to electronic shutter (ES i.e. no vibrations).
Take the new SD-cards with UHS-II which are much more faster than every card on the market.
Take the highspeed modus (CH).
rgds Werner
|Pity that the pictures have been removed from this topic. I think strongly about buying a Fujifilm X-T10, to replace my Nikon 1 V1. Does anyone have experience with the 35mm 1.4 lens coupled with a Swarovski ATS and the 25-50 eyepiece? Is it free of vignetting? I want to use it with the DCA adapter.
I am surprised that there is so little to be found about digiscoping with Fujifilm cameras. For stills this seems as good as the best option on the market. The video quality is poor, but I never use.
I am surprised that there is so little to be found about digiscoping with Fujifilm cameras. For stills this seems as good as the best option on the market. The video quality is poor, but I never use.
I tested it myself, since I bought the camera and lens. The lens has to be very close to the eyepiece to lose vignetting. I used a file to remove the inner edge of the DCA adapter, so that it can be slid further over the eyepiece. Now it's fine. This modification could be useful for other lenses too.
I also tested something else. Compared to my Nikon 1 V1 + 18,5mm, I lose 2 stops of light (both wide open at same ISO). That was a bit disappointing, and I guess it's a result of the longer focal length (18,5 vs 35mm, both 50mm equivalent with their own sensor). With better ISO handling the Fuji wins 2 to 3 stops back.
I also tested something else. Compared to my Nikon 1 V1 + 18,5mm, I lose 2 stops of light (both wide open at same ISO). That was a bit disappointing, and I guess it's a result of the longer focal length (18,5 vs 35mm, both 50mm equivalent with their own sensor). With better ISO handling the Fuji wins 2 to 3 stops back.
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