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Disocoping with the Panasonic GH4 (1 Viewer)

jourdaj

Well-known member
Simon, I love the Northern Gannet and Long-tailed Duck photos. We only see the Long-tails in their 'breeding' winter plumage and not in their 'basic' mating plumage. Very awesome!
 

Neil

Well-known member
Been having fun taking some still frames off the 4k video from the GH4.
Neil.

Panasonic GH4 + 20/1.7 mm lens and Swarovski STS80HD scope and UCA adapter
Sydney,Australia
March 2015
 

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Neil

Well-known member
I picked up the Panasonic Leica Summilux 25/1.4 lens yesterday. I'll test it on the GH4 today and the scope soon.
Neil.
 

Hobbes2

Well-known member
Neil, thank you for your reply over on the Swaro TLS 800 thread query. I've enjoyed reading through this thread too and see that I'm beginning to use a similar set up to you for digiscoping. I hope you won't mind a couple of questions.

My set up is Swaro ATS80HD with x25-50 EP, DCB-A adapter and Panasonic G3 with 20mm f1.7 lens.

I generally set the ISO to give a shutter speed of 1/800th sec or more, if possible. I also try to use the 2 sec timer if the subject is mostly still so as to completely eliminate shake from me touching the equipment. But, all of this is only possible if I can see the LCD screen clearly. If I'm in bright sunshine, with the light ideally behind me, the screen is impossible to see so I have to look down the view finder. This then, introduces instability. May I ask how you shoot? Do you use the LCD screen or viewfinder? Remote shutter release or hands-on? What sort of shutter speed do you aim for?

I wonder have you found you get better results with the APO or the DCB? Is one less hassle than the other?

Sorry for so many questions. It's nice to find someone else exploring all of this.
Many thanks
Hobbes
 

Neil

Well-known member
Neil, thank you for your reply over on the Swaro TLS 800 thread query. I've enjoyed reading through this thread too and see that I'm beginning to use a similar set up to you for digiscoping. I hope you won't mind a couple of questions.

My set up is Swaro ATS80HD with x25-50 EP, DCB-A adapter and Panasonic G3 with 20mm f1.7 lens.

I generally set the ISO to give a shutter speed of 1/800th sec or more, if possible. I also try to use the 2 sec timer if the subject is mostly still so as to completely eliminate shake from me touching the equipment. But, all of this is only possible if I can see the LCD screen clearly. If I'm in bright sunshine, with the light ideally behind me, the screen is impossible to see so I have to look down the view finder. This then, introduces instability. May I ask how you shoot? Do you use the LCD screen or viewfinder? Remote shutter release or hands-on? What sort of shutter speed do you aim for?

I wonder have you found you get better results with the APO or the DCB? Is one less hassle than the other?

Sorry for so many questions. It's nice to find someone else exploring all of this.
Many thanks
Hobbes

Hobbes,
Sorry to be a bit slow in responding but I've been away for a few days with no computer.
I'm a great believer in the Burst Mode of digiscoping. Set to fastest Continuous burst mode and shoot quick bursts of up to about 10 frames. The middle frames are usually the sharpest. I rest my hand on the front of the scope and press my eye to the eyepiece which stabilises the scope.
I use both the APO and DCB and both are useful. With the GH3 I used the 20/1.7 on the UCA adapter the most. This is because I normally shoot with at least 3 cameras, sometimes four, to make sure I always have a fresh camera and card ready. Also with video in the heat the cameras can overheat and power down so I have to switch them out quickly. These days though I've found the GH4 with a 128 gig card to handle a lot with no over heating so it's on the scope most of the time ( I like to shoot 4k video). Previously with the GH3 I also shot with the Sony RX100M3 and Nikon P330/340. I now only use the GH3 as backup on the scope and shoot it with the 100-300mm for video.
I like at least 1/1000th second if I can get it.
Hope this helps,
Neil.
 

Hobbes2

Well-known member
Hobbes,
Sorry to be a bit slow in responding but I've been away for a few days with no computer.
I'm a great believer in the Burst Mode of digiscoping. Set to fastest Continuous burst mode and shoot quick bursts of up to about 10 frames. The middle frames are usually the sharpest. I rest my hand on the front of the scope and press my eye to the eyepiece which stabilises the scope.
I use both the APO and DCB and both are useful. With the GH3 I used the 20/1.7 on the UCA adapter the most. This is because I normally shoot with at least 3 cameras, sometimes four, to make sure I always have a fresh camera and card ready. Also with video in the heat the cameras can overheat and power down so I have to switch them out quickly. These days though I've found the GH4 with a 128 gig card to handle a lot with no over heating so it's on the scope most of the time ( I like to shoot 4k video). Previously with the GH3 I also shot with the Sony RX100M3 and Nikon P330/340. I now only use the GH3 as backup on the scope and shoot it with the 100-300mm for video.
I like at least 1/1000th second if I can get it.
Hope this helps,
Neil.

No worries, Neil. That's the great thing about Forums, you can access them as/when you have the opportunity - no late fees ;). Thank you for your very helpful answer too. Unfortunately, I have limited success with the burst mode with the G3 (shutter slap/vibration, probably) and many of the middle shots are burry. Sometimes, it's the last shot that's useable. Anyway, I got hold of a remote shutter release and that seems to help a little. With this kind of system, I find it's all about making small changes to bring about incremental improvements so that eventually you get as near to what you're after in terms of image quality.

I do find video a very useful tool and sometimes revert to that, knowing I can pull stills from it later.
Thanks again :t:
 

janvangastel

Well-known member
I always use the fastest (SH) burst mode on my G3 and GX1. Disadvantage is, that you can only shoot small (4 mp) files. Advantage is, you can use the electronic shutter only and have no vibration caused by shutter shock at all. Below exposures of 1/200, shutter shock occurs with all other burst options and also for single shot. For long distance shots even faster shutter speeds can show the effect of shutter shock.
 

Hobbes2

Well-known member
I always use the fastest (SH) burst mode on my G3 and GX1. Disadvantage is, that you can only shoot small (4 mp) files. Advantage is, you can use the electronic shutter only and have no vibration caused by shutter shock at all. Below exposures of 1/200, shutter shock occurs with all other burst options and also for single shot. For long distance shots even faster shutter speeds can show the effect of shutter shock.

That's a very handy setting to know about janvangastel, thanks. I have been shooting at the "Small" 4mp frame size, to get the extra reach and accuracy with the focus point. Knowing I can eliminate shutter shock on that, is superb. I will definitely be giving that a go. :t:
 

janvangastel

Well-known member
Alas, it is not possible on the G3 (and GX1) to use the SH burst mode when the ex. teleconverter is ON (if you mean that with 'extra reach'). So, when using that extra reach of the G3, it is not possible to prevent shutter shock otherwise then using high shutter speeds. Which will make this 'ex teleconvert' option only useable when there's enough light.
 

Hobbes2

Well-known member
Alas, it is not possible on the G3 (and GX1) to use the SH burst mode when the ex. teleconverter is ON (if you mean that with 'extra reach'). So, when using that extra reach of the G3, it is not possible to prevent shutter shock otherwise then using high shutter speeds. Which will make this 'ex teleconvert' option only useable when there's enough light.

Ah yes, I discovered this yesterday, unfortunately. It's a shame as the SH burst mode with the ex. teleconverter would be ideal.
 

Neil

Well-known member
I took the Panasonic Leica 25/1.4 Summilux lens out to the wetlands yesterday to use it on the Swaro 95.
I must say I'm very impressed.
I had to extend my Digidapter to take the longer lens though. I was a bit surprised that there was still a bit of vignetting with this lens so I needed to crop the centre of the frame. In video mode this disappears.
The AF is very fast compared to the Panasonic 20/1.7 and seems more accurate. The quality of the 4k video looked good at distance and I was able to take some nice stills from the video clips.
Here is some 4k video. Watch at your screen resolution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAcan-2y5ds&feature=youtu.be

Neil.

Panasonic GH4 and Leica 25/1.4 mm lens and Swarovski STX95 mm scope and Digidapter

Mai Po Nature Reserve,
Hong Kong,China.
28th May 2015
 

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Hobbes2

Well-known member
I took the Panasonic Leica 25/1.4 Summilux lens out to the wetlands yesterday to use it on the Swaro 95.
I must say I'm very impressed.
I had to extend my Digidapter to take the longer lens though. I was a bit surprised that there was still a bit of vignetting with this lens so I needed to crop the centre of the frame. In video mode this disappears.
The AF is very fast compared to the Panasonic 20/1.7 and seems more accurate. The quality of the 4k video looked good at distance and I was able to take some nice stills from the video clips.
Here is some 4k video. Watch at your screen resolution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAcan-2y5ds&feature=youtu.be

Neil.

Panasonic GH4 and Leica 25/1.4 mm lens and Swarovski STX95 mm scope and Digidapter

Mai Po Nature Reserve,
Hong Kong,China.
28th May 2015

Wow, that video footage, from that distance, is incredible! I'd not heard of Digidapter before but have now looked them up. Did you have to tweak the video footage afterwards to get the correct contrast, colours? Also, how did you keep it so still with the wind blowing!?
Great work Neil :t:
 

jonsoli

Member
From complete newbie

Hi Neil,

I am a COMPLETE newbie to the concept of digiscoping, having up to this point gone the traditional route of high-end DSLRs (Nikon), long, heavy lenses, tripods, gimbal-heads etc.

It gradually percolated into my dim mind that digiscoping might be the way to go, particularly as within the next two or three years I hope to be living in Bridlington, with the legendary Flamborough Head on the doorstep (currently residing near Bures, Suffolk).

Came quickly to the conclusion that a Swarovski 85 or 95ATX with a Panasonic GH4 and 20mm. f/1.7 lens is the way to go.

What is the 'Digidapter', and who makes it, that I'll need for the Panasonic GH4 with the 20mm. lens and Swarovski 85/95ATX combo please?

I'd be most appreciative of a reply, absolutely NO hurry, I shan't be buying any of this until 2016 !

Thanks Neil,

Jonathan.
 

jonsoli

Member
Thanks Janvangastel !

In the intervening time since I posted this query I had managed to find Paul Sayegh's Digidapter site, and one is on its way.

Thanks agan and happy digiscoping !

Jonathan.
 

jonsoli

Member
Panasonic Leica 21/1.4 lens versus the Panasonic 20/1.7 Lumix lens

I took the Panasonic Leica 25/1.4 Summilux lens out to the wetlands yesterday to use it on the Swaro 95.
I must say I'm very impressed.
I had to extend my Digidapter to take the longer lens though. I was a bit surprised that there was still a bit of vignetting with this lens so I needed to crop the centre of the frame. In video mode this disappears.
The AF is very fast compared to the Panasonic 20/1.7 and seems more accurate. The quality of the 4k video looked good at distance and I was able to take some nice stills from the video clips.
Here is some 4k video. Watch at your screen resolution.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAcan-2y5ds&feature=youtu.be

Neil.

Panasonic GH4 and Leica 25/1.4 mm lens and Swarovski STX95 mm scope and Digidapter

Mai Po Nature Reserve,
Hong Kong,China.
28th May 2015

Dear Neil,

As a complete newbie to digiscoping, I have chosen this combo, based on searching forums, quality, best image results, etc: the Swaro ATX 85 and the Panasonic DMC-GH4 camera.

I've ordered Paul Sayegh's Digidapter for this combo to work with the Panasonic 20/1.7 lens (not yet purchased), and when you say you had to extend your Digidapter, will this work for me if I buy the Panasonic Leica 25/1.4 Summilux lens instead ?

Would you recommend the latter over the former ?

Neither seem to be OIS though, might this be a problem, or would you forego it anyway due to the quality of these fast primes ?

Any advice you could give me would be greatly welcome before I buy a lens !

Many thanks and happy digiscoping,

Sincerely,

Jonathan Tyler.
 

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