Andrew Ellis
Well-known member
Oh .... almost forgot Loved the first Razorbill as well:t:
Ha! - That's why I don't 'do' photography Mark. Completely hopeless (and quite often the same with painting :-O)stick to the paintings timleave the photos to someone else:-O I thought my vision had gone.....fantastic paintings as usual. mark
Just back from walking mad dog around the Point of Ness where I had delightful, albeit backlit, views of a pectoral sandpiper. It didn't hang around though, so I couldn't get a sketch - but I do have an image fixed in my mind . . . who knows . . .
I'm aware that I dont correspond very well on my own thread - I usually just plough on with the next upload and forget what's gone before - for which, I apologise if it appears I haven't read previous comments or questions; nothing could be further from the fact.A few technical questions....what size, kind of paper, how will you frame them, and how do you work it up from the field sketch? only when you have time.....
Almost done with Shaggy - I'll be adding longer meadow grasses in the foreground to give hime a 'cosy' feel. Ought to be finished tonight.
From Ken -
"Along with Colleen's question about size I wonder about drawing. Do you do very light drawings under your watercolors? When I look at them I rarely see any sign of drawing marks.
As usual the new ones are striking. At first it's not noticeable but on further looking at the orchid drawing I notice that it's mainly green. I asked myself how in the world does he get such a good work while still using so much green? It seems like all the greens should cancel each other out. But that's not the case at all. A lesson for all of us who struggle with foliage."
Yes I do make drawings under the colour - often it's very visible and acts as part of the finished piece. Sometimes it gets obliterated and very little is evident at the end of the process - either way it matters not to me.
The thing about using similar colours is to alter value and, more importantly, temperature. You can have two greens of similar value side by side, but the change from warm to cool will mean they read as seperate entities. I use burnt sienna with sap green to get a warm browny green, and maybe sap plus cerelium blue and a touch of chinese white to get a cool bluey-green. The variations are infinite.