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Georgia April 25th / May 16th. Birding the High Caucasus - The Big 5 and beyond..... (5 Viewers)

Unfortunately there was nobody around at the Border Police place so we could not get a permit for Chachuna so we didn't bother making the 50km drive to the reserve in case of entry issues. It's all a bit sensitive around there. We saw guards in both Azerbaijan and Armenia looking around. It means that we will miss out on some stuff but my mate is super sensitive to getting into any trouble as he is about car hire damage issues. We spoke to a Georgian bird guide at Eagle Gorge yesterday and he said Great Rosefinch has been particularly scarce even when the snow was low at Kazbegi.....

We are seeing good birds generally with the odd goodie. The changeable weather with its cloud and flat lighting is a pain and I don't know whether it will improve as we head West. I will post notes later at some stage. We are stopping at Rustavi for a couple of days before moving to Borjomi for 2 nights and then Batumi for 3 poss 4.

Good Spring birding -

Laurie -
 
Mon 5th May.

I missed Lesser Short-toed Lark off yesterday’s list, there were about a dozen or so in the same field as the other stuff - the ommission is unforgivable as it is a new bird for me.

We bade farewell to Signaghi and I promised Nato and Lado that I would return with The Bride soon as she was jealous of my return visit. Cuckoo calling from 0530 with OchStart, Swift and Golden O chipping in later…..

We wound our way up to Eagle Gorge in pleasant sunshine but as soon as we parked mist crept steadily up the valley and all visibility was lost for half an hour but thankfully lifted and normal service was resumed. Mark went into Billy Goat mode and ascended to the top for panoramic views and ledge nesters. He was rewarded with mid-distance views of a pair of Black Storks feeding 3 young, single Short-toed Eagle and an Ortolan Bunting. I set up the BTX and sat on a bench confident that the thermals would do their thing. My motto being acquire the optics, provide the viewer and they will come!
Ravens ferried food to hungry mouths, Several Lesser Grey Shrikes including singing birds, nearly double figures of Woodchat Shrike, Cuckoos, pale-morph Booted Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, single Honey Buzzard that looked the worse for wear courtesy of the braindead shooting fraternity and Rock Bunting. Mark wandered down to a dank shrubby bit of stream and scrub and came back as pleased as punch with pics of an Orphean Warbler but complained that good images were difficult due to the bird skulking in dark cover. Thoroughly gripped off I decide to educate him by relating the story of Orpheus. A master of the Lyre and Pipes his wife was killed by a snake and he wandered the Underworld in an attempt to find her by playing his music - the Orphean Warbler is indeed aptly named. I saw a few ringed at Eilat 2 years ago and when you see them in the hand compared to Lesser Whitethroat the size difference is striking.

We left Eagle Gorge at around 1:30pm for Rustavi via David Geregti Monastery. En-route for the first hour we had frequent Corn Buntings as we dropped to gentle rolling Steppe country. Hardly a sign of habitation and no poles or lines in sight - must be a challenge for birds who utilise these as song perches. The sight of a Shepherd and his Dogs gently herding about 500 Sheep with a long whippy stick in one hand a mobile phone in the other is one that will stay with me. A coupla unidentified Buzzards, Several Griffon Vultures, Black Kites, a pair of Sparrowhawks with Griffon Vulture and a Honey Buzzard in a small ‘kettle’ and more Rollers n Bee Eaters.

We stopped for an hour at a moderate-sized linear pool that, like many others, are an ephemeral element of seasonal largesse depending on the whims of weather that fortunately Georgia is a generous provider of…..rain! This was actually the first site we have seen where the range and number of migrants were eye-rolling. The first thing I clocked were 8 Red-necked Phalarope including a spanking female in full nuptial plumage. Ruff numbered about 50 but none actually with ruffs. A pair of Ruddy Shelduck stood observing from the far side. Little Egrets probed the shallows whilst about 20 Wood Sandpipers jostled for feeding position. 2 Little Stints darted here and there. Quail called from several undisclosed locations as they do. Several linear sections of low bank vegetation held 40+ Yellow Wagtails. I will have to check photos but they appeared to be ‘superciliaris’ but one individual stood out like a Dick on a Dog - a male ‘lutea’ bound for SW Siberia…..according to my Collins Guide. Mixed in with them and the odd Crested Lark were half a dozen Red-throated Pipits not quite brick-Red throats but getting there as they say.

Plans of visiting David Gerejti Monastery were discarded as we decided to take the dodgy road, basically a track to Rustavi that seemed to go on forever. It was already 1630 and although lighting up time is 8pm heavy cloud meant poor light and coupled with spots of rain and distant lightning the pucker factor crept in. Rolling Steppe-type habitat yielded dozens of Calandra Larks ditto Corn Buntings, Wheatears, Crested Larks, Bee Eaters, a lone adult Egyptian Vulture, Lesser Grey Shrikes and a coupla Rollers.

Finally the lights of distant Rustavi appeared, not the tidiest or prettiest of towns imo. Power lines and plastic everywhere, groups of Cattle with attendant titular Egrets plus 3 Great Whites. We arrived 1.5 hours late and drank beer like at the end of the movie Ice Cold in Alex all in all a most enjoyable days birding…..

Good Spring birding -

Laurie -
 
More.

The Jay is the Turkish/Caucasus subspecies 'krynicki' with a paler face and a Black cap aka Black-headed Jay - I just never noticed it before now.
 

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More.

That's what I think of the Georgian weather and anybody for male Pallid?
 

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Tue 6th May.

We decided to stick local by visiting Lake Kusimi, Lake Jandari and suitable fields in between.

We started off by getting turned back by Border Guards as we headed towards Lake Kusimi. This involved a detour, something we are getting used to with the ad-hoc Georgian road surface system. The guards were friendly enough one of them eyeing up my Swaro 12x42’s - confiscation? No, could he look through them? I declined to offer them up as I have standards to maintain…..

I have had good reports re Kusimi from a Georgian birder who has one of the very few Faecebook pages I follow. The detour yielded White Wagtail, Spotless Starling, Roller, Cattle Egret, both Lesser Grey and Red-backed Shrikes and 3 Hoopoes, a small roadside pool with c20 Black-winged Stilts and Quail here and there.

The lake itself is a decent size and had a few maggot-drowners quite happy to sit in the discarded bottles, tins and plastic detritus that is an intrinsic part of their sport/hobby. I wondered why there is very little in the way of litter bins in Georgia…..

Little Grebes whinnying, Bee Eaters purring and Great Reed Warblers sounding like they were clearing their throats after a pack of 20 Woodbine. More confiding Shrikes than you could shake a stick at and a dozen Little Terns showing the locals how it’s done! Grey Heron, a single Squacco Heron, Little Egrets, about 50 Night Herons in a belt of Conifers and a booming Bittern were all nice to see and hear. 2 Black-necked Grebes ducked and dived in the company of 2 male Garganey and 20+ Common Sandpipers. Cuckoo and Sedge Warbler called and the former I thought danger close to the latter and its reedbed residence. Lots of Sand Martins and a Common Tern arrived together.

We looked around for flooded fields etc but to no avail. The backdrop was stark with power lines eminating seemingly from everywhere and then proceeding to march in all directions across the landscape. Outer Rustavi, like many Georgian towns, still bear the legacy of Soviet-era low rise tenements. There is actually a reason for that. Any apartment block over 5 stories has to have a lift hence the height. Probably part of a plan to improve ‘Russian’ stamina by making the babushka’s walk up and down the flights of stairs with their heavy bags of shopping.

On to Lake Jandari with Common Tern, male Marsh Harrier, Nightingale and Greed Warbler en-route. The Lake is split in two between Georgia and Azerbaijan. Yet again the dice were rolled against us with winds of 25mph gusting 30 we had to either sit in the car or raise the boot to shelter behind it - infuriating as their was a bit of stuff to be seen. One end of the Lake that tapered into shallow water and damp fields was full of birds - fortunately it was in Georgia. A flock of c40 Slender-billed Gulls and hawking Whiskered Terns were noted.

Parties of Rooks, a trip first, probed the adjacent fields. 2 Ospreys went over and over 100 Glossy Ibis fed. More Stilts, 50+ Dunlin ditto Shoveler, Greenshanjk, Black Kite, Little Terns and Pygmy Cormorant. A Common Scoter Popped up which I thought odd. Marsh Harriers, Stock Doves, more Greeds and a Kingfisher - another trip tick.

Our final night finished with pouring rain - putting the Rust in Rustavi…..

Good Spring birding -

Laurie -
 

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