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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Chosun Juan" data-source="post: 3295293" data-attributes="member: 92780">Bill,I hope you get along well with your choice  (of which I know nothing about <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />When it comes to your condition, a helpful technique may be to use either a tripod or sandbag rest, and the camera's timer (presuming it has one!  <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile    :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />A mate of mine does this with quite some success on all manner of raptors using a DSLR, and anywhere from a 2 second delay upwards - depending on the situation.  Most birds are moving slowly on the ground, perched, roosting etc.With all manner of remotes, and smartphone apps these days, the need to even touch the camera can be removed  .....  perhaps such techniques can work for you.For BIF shots, or fast moving geewizzits, and waders, etc, then you may want to upgrade one day ---- try and stick with fast lenses and shutter speeds and some form of OIS equipment ..... usually that means an APS-C  DSLR  and some fast glass (300mm f2.8 +2xTC, or 500mm f4 work well) if you want to shoot in lower light, although some good things are being done with the 150-600mm superzoom telephoto lenses, and also with the 4/3rds, and the Nikon1 formats .....Good luck with your superzoom bridge  :t:Chosun  :gh:</blockquote>

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