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Is this the Right Gear for starting Bird Watching Recordings? (1 Viewer)

Nickkettt

New member
Argentina
Hi everyone,


I’m putting together my first setup for bird watching and recording, and I’d love to get some feedback from those more experienced.


Here’s what I’m planning to get:


• Zoom F3 recorder ($218) – I’ve read excellent reviews on this forum, seems like a great choice for the price right now.


• Audio Technica AT897 microphone


• Movo BWS1000 Blimp Wind & Vibration Protection System


I’m new to this world of recording birds and I want to improve my birdwatching experiences, so I’d really appreciate any comments or recommendations.
Would you change anything? I’m trying to stick to a reasonable budget for the bundle (recorder, mic and the holder) , so nothing too expensive, please.



Thanks in advance!
 
Hi,

What I would do:

Recorder: smartphone + Parabolic dish

Cheapest option that I know:

Products

For nocmig i use audiomoth + parabolic dish.

Casual day birding: smartphone (Merlín app) + good quality external mic PUI aom 5024l HD (home made). This is what I use the most, always with me.

Day birding looking for "good" audio: Parabolic dish + 100€ recorder (i use olympus LSP1, small and light). Olympus lsp5 cost twice and the audio quality is very similar (i have both)
 
It all depends for what purpose you're planning to use the material. Recording bird song is most likely better with a shotgun mic which can be pointed at the singing bird. Omnidirectional mics mostly do not have enough 'reach' and directionality for that (when used without a parabolic dish), but pick up flying birds from a fixed point better. I would not start with a parabolic dish, but when choosing gear now you can make sure this is addable to the setup later. Choosing for xlr input (which you're planning to do) seems wise from that viewpoint.

I think the F3 is a good choice because of it's practical and relatively simple way of operating. I bought one myself recently and I'm pleased with it, although I'm still figuring out things.

Ask yourself the question if the way you plan to use the setup requires a blimp or if a (mostly cheaper) windshield also does the trick.

When you want to record while walking; less is absolutely more in my experience. My Clippy microphone is a true delight.

Apart from that your choices (especially the F3) are great to start with. There are a lot of options, so it can be tricky to choose in the beginning. Take your time and enjoy the journey :)
 
Hi everyone,


I’m putting together my first setup for bird watching and recording, and I’d love to get some feedback from those more experienced.


Here’s what I’m planning to get:


• Zoom F3 recorder ($218) – I’ve read excellent reviews on this forum, seems like a great choice for the price right now.


• Audio Technica AT897 microphone


• Movo BWS1000 Blimp Wind & Vibration Protection System


I’m new to this world of recording birds and I want to improve my birdwatching experiences, so I’d really appreciate any comments or recommendations.
Would you change anything? I’m trying to stick to a reasonable budget for the bundle (recorder, mic and the holder) , so nothing too expensive, please.



Thanks in advance!

Should be good and could last you for years. I started in 2017 and still using the same gear but with new additions of the blimp
 
I would add to the shopping list software for post processing.

Audacity (which is free) can do some things, but software that can do precision edits of sonograms, or 'de-noise' audio can be very useful. It can be really frustrating to make an apparent 'good recording' only to find out it is spoiled by microphone pops and other unwanted noise.
 
Hi!
What is your goal with bird recording? Recording birds in nature? Single out one bird?
If you want to single out one bird, you have a good setup, certainly better than my starting set up! Shotgun mic is easier to use than parabolic and you will get great review. As for the blimp. I use mine quite often but keep in mind they are bulky. As you seem to have some budget, maybe add just a deadcat when you have to walk a lot!
If you never try bird recording, you also can get the Cornell lab of ornithology's course about bird recording. When I took the course I was recording for a solid two years so I didn't learn much, but as a starter, it's not bad!
 
I want to politely hijack this thread, with a closely similar question. I'd like a simple small light low-cost recording setup primarily for a) constant recording while birding, to confirm unusual IDs, and secondarily for b) beginner efforts at nocmig. I currently use Merlin on smartphone for (a), but generally the recording is cruddy, and it gets clunky because I'm using phone (with limited battery) for so many different things. I'm thinking Zoom H1N plus Clippy XLR EM272Z1, plus furry creature on the mic and perhaps clip to backpack strap, total cost around £200. Would that make sense? [Though one drawback is losing Merlin's real-time sound ID, which is often wrong but sometimes very usefully right. But I don't think (?) it's possible to plug this mic or similar into my phone?] Thank you!
 
The XLR Clippy you mention doesn't fit the H1N since that recorder has no XLR portal. Maybe you mean the non-XLR EM272Z1 with a jack plug?

For constant recording while birding I use a Clippy/Zoom F3 combo with the Clippy attached to a Carry Speed camera sling strap. The cable is fixed by tie wraps on the back side of the sling. No hassle with backpacks etc.
 
The XLR Clippy you mention doesn't fit the H1N since that recorder has no XLR portal. Maybe you mean the non-XLR EM272Z1 with a jack plug?

For constant recording while birding I use a Clippy/Zoom F3 combo with the Clippy attached to a Carry Speed camera sling strap. The cable is fixed by tie wraps on the back side of the sling. No hassle with backpacks etc.
That's really helpful, Ribbon, thank you! Yes, I would definitely want the Clippy with the right plug, thank you for pointing out my error! If you have time to reply to one more query: in your experience, is your solution a major step-up in quality from phone recording?
 
Well, I never really recorded with my phone + mic, nor used Merlin or something similar. So maybe somebody who used both methods can share his/her experience.

Apart from that I'm really impressed by the sound quality of the Clippy when compared to my Sennheiser ME62 I used for the same type of activity. I would expect the Clippy to be more limited in a way, but while it's having less 'reach' (f.e. noticeable with distant wader calls etc.) I'm very satisfied with the quality of the recordings. For me (at this moment) the zoom/clippy combo is 'the sweet spot' regarding sound quality and portability.
 
I would add to the shopping list software for post processing.

Audacity (which is free) can do some things, but software that can do precision edits of sonograms, or 'de-noise' audio can be very useful. It can be really frustrating to make an apparent 'good recording' only to find out it is spoiled by microphone pops and other unwanted noise.
Hi, Jon!

I generally use Audacity and the Apple audio filters it allows on a MacBook Pro. What alternative software ($ or free) takes care of those unwanted noises? There seems always to be something in my headphones that I did not notice in the field.
 
What alternative software ($ or free) takes care of those unwanted noises
In my experience software tools are very useful, but you can't rely on them to get rid of unwanted noise. For starters, most noise reduction software is designed to clean up music or human voice - the latter is common, and in fact for the MixPre Recorders you can actually get a recorder plug-in to de-noise interviews (i.e. to extract aircon hum etc. from human voice.

Without spending a huge amount, the 'best' noise reduction software is probably Izotope RX Studio. I have been using this, but 'gently', as I find that it does strange things to my recordings - sonograms can show pale horizontal bands post processing, and a recording I have of Hume's Warbler calls, developed a rather odd set of harmonics post processing. This was sufficient to audibly notice the difference. RX Studio is quite expensive, but they do have offers quite often when the software can be purchased with a substantial discount - but it still isn't cheap!

An alternative to consider is Steinberg's WaveLab Pro 11. Again this isn't cheap - but it is cheaper than RX. This works very differently. Basically you can take your recording and get the software to split the recording into separate layers for noise, tonals (basically whistles), and transients (basically short tics and tacs sounds). Each of these layers can then be edited visually, including reducing loudness. If you have an annoying mic pop on the transient layer, you can simple highlight it and press delete. I regularly use this software to reduce the loudness of noise, and to make adjustments - I have even toned down or deleted the buzz of a fly close to the mic and even human voice. It is not perfect, and you need to be careful again of over-processing and ruining the bird vocals.

Probably a safer way to get rid of some noise is to use a equalizer - lots of software have equalizer functions. With this I set up the equalizer to reduce the low frequency and high frequency noise, below and above the bird vocals. Most equalizers will show you the sound split over the frequency range, and the equalizer profile, so that you can visually make sure you are not impacting the bird vocals. Obviously, this works well with either low pitched or high pitched noise, but not if you have unwanted noise in the middle to the frequency band for the bird vocals. I have used this technique to significant cut out wind rumble, but it would be unsuitable for say cicada's incessant drone.

If mic pops and other unwanted transients are the problem, then a tool that allows you to do surgical modifications to the sonogram can be very useful. With this kind of tool, you can normally simply copy a small slither of sound from immediately adjacent to the unwanted transient, and paste it on top to make the unwanted noise disappear. I started out with Wavelab for this purpose, but I think it is overkill and too expensive to recommend. Cutting and pasting large areas of noise to overwrite more noisy bits of the recording rarely works, as there is normally some sound, that then gets repeated and sound wrong.

Of course the best way to get rid of noise is to get a good signal to noise ratio, by getting as close to the bird a possible. But that isn't always possible, and in our noisy world unwanted sound can still ruin a recording.
 
In my experience software tools are very useful, but you can't rely on them to get rid of unwanted noise. For starters, most noise reduction software is designed to clean up music or human voice - the latter is common, and in fact for the MixPre Recorders you can actually get a recorder plug-in to de-noise interviews (i.e. to extract aircon hum etc. from human voice.

Without spending a huge amount, the 'best' noise reduction software is probably Izotope RX Studio. I have been using this, but 'gently', as I find that it does strange things to my recordings - sonograms can show pale horizontal bands post processing, and a recording I have of Hume's Warbler calls, developed a rather odd set of harmonics post processing. This was sufficient to audibly notice the difference. RX Studio is quite expensive, but they do have offers quite often when the software can be purchased with a substantial discount - but it still isn't cheap!

An alternative to consider is Steinberg's WaveLab Pro 11. Again this isn't cheap - but it is cheaper than RX. This works very differently. Basically you can take your recording and get the software to split the recording into separate layers for noise, tonals (basically whistles), and transients (basically short tics and tacs sounds). Each of these layers can then be edited visually, including reducing loudness. If you have an annoying mic pop on the transient layer, you can simple highlight it and press delete. I regularly use this software to reduce the loudness of noise, and to make adjustments - I have even toned down or deleted the buzz of a fly close to the mic and even human voice. It is not perfect, and you need to be careful again of over-processing and ruining the bird vocals.

Probably a safer way to get rid of some noise is to use a equalizer - lots of software have equalizer functions. With this I set up the equalizer to reduce the low frequency and high frequency noise, below and above the bird vocals. Most equalizers will show you the sound split over the frequency range, and the equalizer profile, so that you can visually make sure you are not impacting the bird vocals. Obviously, this works well with either low pitched or high pitched noise, but not if you have unwanted noise in the middle to the frequency band for the bird vocals. I have used this technique to significant cut out wind rumble, but it would be unsuitable for say cicada's incessant drone.

If mic pops and other unwanted transients are the problem, then a tool that allows you to do surgical modifications to the sonogram can be very useful. With this kind of tool, you can normally simply copy a small slither of sound from immediately adjacent to the unwanted transient, and paste it on top to make the unwanted noise disappear. I started out with Wavelab for this purpose, but I think it is overkill and too expensive to recommend. Cutting and pasting large areas of noise to overwrite more noisy bits of the recording rarely works, as there is normally some sound, that then gets repeated and sound wrong.

Of course the best way to get rid of noise is to get a good signal to noise ratio, by getting as close to the bird a possible. But that isn't always possible, and in our noisy world unwanted sound can still ruin a recording.
Thank you, Jon! This is helpful and points me in a couple of good directions. Later this week, I will try WaveLab. Last year, I looked at RX Studio and, at the time, it seemed to be too much tool for my toolbox. I appreciate that you are generous with tips and suggestions!
 

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