1st March – In lieu of disappearing rarities, today was going to be a touristy day! The weather was good, with a nice dusting of snow from the night before. We punched the phone number for our destination into the satnav and off we set for the c70min northwards drive to the famous snow monkeys at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen. I have to admit, this was one place I really wanted to visit on this trip as I, like many others, have seen them so often on TV documentaries that I had to see it for myself.....and it didn't disappoint!
The road conditions on the way up weren't too bad – I only lost the car once as we came off the motorway onto a steep sliproad.....so very carefully stuck it in L and rolled down slowly – as did everyone else behind me after they saw my back-end swing round!! Fun fun fun! As we drove through Nakano we had the first
White-cheeked Starlings of the trip and saw quite a few throughout the day. The road up to the carpark was pretty steep but thankfully clear of snow and ice.....unlike the carpark itself!! Quite fun watching a few people slip and slide on the incline
The 1.5km walk to the actual hot springs was as picturesque as you can imagine – like a winter wonderland from out of Narnia! Birdwise there wasn't alot happening around the place with a few
Long-tailed and
Coal Tits in the evergreen forest and
Japanese &
Oriental Crows loafing about the springs. No other mammals were seen, even though we kept scanning through the trees for serow. The path wove through the forest, snow falling and perfect powder beneath our feet – good for a few well-placed snowballs of course!

As we reached Korakukan Ryokan with its steaming geyser and massive icicles hanging off the eaves we entered the park proper and soon could see the
Japanese Macaques around the stream and pools.
We spent several hours here watching the family groups of macacques interact with one another...and us: at one stage I was kneeling down photographing a particularly pathetic-looking youngster that had obviously pissed its mother off as she kept turning her back on her snow-covered progeny no matter how much it cried when I felt something on my back. Thinking someone had barged into me (again – it does get busy here!) I was somewhat bemused when a little furry hand appeared over my hood and its owner clambered around on my shoulders! I was lucky though as another guy had a larger male jump on his back and then bounce up and down on him with enough strength to force the guy down to his knees!
We watched as they bathed in the thermal pools with the lower one nearer the river the most productive. The higher, man-made and TV famous pool was very busy with us larger apes but only a couple of macaques were hanging around it. Still amazes me that they don't freeze to death as they leave the warm water! A truly wonderful experieance and I urge anyone who visits Japan in winter to definitely partake
After leaving the monkeys we decided to head southwards and visit Matsumoto Castle. Again the satnav proved invaluable and we were treated to some more awesome winter panoramics as we drove up through the mountains. A stop at a motorway services with a particularly jaw-dropping view across the valley gave us a flock of c15
Brambling. Other pitstops gave us
Jap Grobeaks, Jap Jay, more
White-cheeked Starlings and
Meadow Buntings.
The castle itself was very impressive and in its capacious moat there were many
Eastern Spotbills, several
Gadwall and
Teal, a male
Pintail and a couple of
Little Egrets. A pair of
Mute Swans complemented the castle perfectly and the absolutely huge koi swimming around were also very impressive! A
Sparrowhawk flew over whilst we were looking out of one of the higher windows and a
Dusky Thrush was hopping around in the gardens which also held
Oriental Greenfinches and
Oriental Turtle Doves.
A quick visit to the town itself was a nice bit of culture with
Tree Sparrows, Black-backed Wags and
Brown-eared Bulbuls everywhere. We left the bustling town and headed off southwest towards Lake Suwa. Upon our arrival I felt the leaflet had lied: I was expecting more Lake Windemere but it was more akin to Lake Geneva! Still there was a good number of
Goosander, Goldeneye and
Coots out on the lake itself, with
Wigeon and
Pochard present too. Along the various canals and ditches we had a single
White-fronted Goose with a
Wigeon flock,
Little and
Great Crested Grebes and several
Grey Herons and
Eastern Great Egrets. The surprise bird here though was an adult
Kittiwake flying around the lake which actually landed right in front of us where we could see it was unfortunately entwined with fishing line. So as evening began to fall we headed back towards Karuizawa where we had dinner at Il Sogno, an Italian restaurant on the shopping centre.
