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New 100 - 400 OM lens (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Steve Babbs
- Start date
Thanks, though I guess I'd say a new version or update rather than a new lens. Good to see they finally added full synch IS, better weather sealing, and not only did not make it heavier, but actually a little lighter. Almost everything with Oly/Panasonic has been getting heavier in recent years.
Peter.home
Well-known member
I thought there was probably more scope for expanding their telephoto range, instead of replacing existing models. A 400mm prime for example?
Steve Babbs
Well-known member
I would like it to be sharper as well as better IS. I want the flexibility of a zoom - especially as my main targets are usually mammals these days, hence the reason I didn't buy the 300 mm - but can't afford the 150 - 600. Or, I suppose, can, but would rather spend the money on trips. I would be on for a lens around the £2000 mark to pay for improved sharpness.
Steve Babbs
Well-known member
Probably worth the extra if you're getting the 100 - 400 - apparently the mark i will still be on sale for some time yet - but not worth changing for those of us with the mark i.
MelospizaMelodiaFan
I photograph birds
I have the MkI, the image skips every second or two because of the IBIS and OIS working against each other. I suppose I miss 1 in 6-10 shots because of this. It is still usable, but sync IS should have been a feature in the MkI. If I buy another lens, it would be the 300 f/4.
Steve Babbs
Well-known member
I don't have that issue at all. Wouldn't it be better to turn one of them off?
The 300 f4 is definitely a better lens in many ways but it is about twice the price. However if it wasn't for the issue of having to zoom out a lot for mammals I would have chosen that without a doubt.
MelospizaMelodiaFan
I photograph birds
I guess you don't use the full 400mm, or you have a very steady hold.
See what I mean here:
Steve Babbs
Well-known member
I use it very frequently. I know some people do turn off one or another. I don't.
MelospizaMelodiaFan
I photograph birds
I use 400 almost exclusively, with both IBIS and OIS turned on. If you don't see the effect shown in the video, I'd love to know what your secret is.
luxBorealis–TerryMcDonald
Member
Turn off the lens IS (and leave camera IBIS on) and you will have greater success.
luxBorealis–TerryMcDonald
Member
The 100-400 has served me well over the last 2 years. Much sharper at 400 then I would ever have thought from reading forum posts. Feather (and fur) detail is excellent for all uses, including large prints; e.g. the Grey-headed Catbird (attached, 1500px down-sized from 3152×4203px) was shot at ISO 3200 and the original prints beautifully (400mm; f/8 @ 1/200; processed in Lightroom from raw).
The new version will be a ideal for those who don’t want the bulk of the 150-600 or find the expense of the 150-400/TC1.25 eye-watering.
The new version will be a ideal for those who don’t want the bulk of the 150-600 or find the expense of the 150-400/TC1.25 eye-watering.
Attachments
Peter.home
Well-known member
I'm finding similar results.
Stonechat was a pretty heavy crop, ~1/16th of the frame, and iso1600.
I've said it many times on here, Lightroom editing and Denoise makes all the difference.
Stonechat was a pretty heavy crop, ~1/16th of the frame, and iso1600.
I've said it many times on here, Lightroom editing and Denoise makes all the difference.
luxBorealis–TerryMcDonald
Member
Agreed! I’ve just posted an article detailing my look into five different demosaic, denoise and sharpening apps: Lr Enhanced NR, DxO Pure Raw, ON1 No Noise, OM Workspace, and Topaz PhotoAI. Rather than pixel-peeping, I examined the photos using common use scenarios: for the web, for 4K TV and smaller prints, and for 12x16” prints. While they each looked great in different scenarios (I tested 6 different images at different ISOs: 200, 800, 3200, 6400 and 12800), the most consistent were Lightroom and DxO. Lightroom provided a ‘natural sharpness’ while the DxO (and ON1 and Topaz) was slightly ‘hyper-realistic’. I go into in more detail in my Conclusions. If you’re interested, you’ll find the post HERE.
Cheers,
Terry
Could it be due to your model of camera being two generations older than the one Steve uses (as far as I know)?
Niels
MelospizaMelodiaFan
I photograph birds
I have the E-M1 Mark II, Gordon Laing uses the E-M1 Mark III in his video. My firmware is updated with support for this lens. I think it's just the lack of sync IS that is responsible for the sudden jumps. The OM-1 may have 1.5-2 stops improved IBIS, perhaps that is making a difference.
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MelospizaMelodiaFan
I photograph birds
The image is more stable with both left on when I hand hold. Turning off lens IS makes it seem like I drank a triple espresso.
Thomas Stirr use the same settings (IBIS only) as you do. He gets fantastic shots. I must use the camera differently.
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Steve as far as I know has an OM1, so one generation newer than the camera in that video.
I have never made a video of what the view through my PanaLaica 100-400 looks like, but I cannot say that I have noticed the sudden jumps; and the lens being a different brand excludes sync IS. (I just turned the camera on indoors, lens at 400mm, and held it for maybe half a minute. There were no sudden, unexplained, jumps. Of course, with hand holding that long, there was some movement.) As you know, I have the OM1-ii.
If you choose to turn off one IS or the other, I would turn off the in camera version. IBIS is less likely to work perfectly with this long a lens, while the in-lens IS is designed for the long lens.
Niels
I have never made a video of what the view through my PanaLaica 100-400 looks like, but I cannot say that I have noticed the sudden jumps; and the lens being a different brand excludes sync IS. (I just turned the camera on indoors, lens at 400mm, and held it for maybe half a minute. There were no sudden, unexplained, jumps. Of course, with hand holding that long, there was some movement.) As you know, I have the OM1-ii.
If you choose to turn off one IS or the other, I would turn off the in camera version. IBIS is less likely to work perfectly with this long a lens, while the in-lens IS is designed for the long lens.
Niels
Steve Babbs
Well-known member
Yes OM1 mark i
