Jason Bugay Reyes
Well-known member
So with the help of spotlight at nite and using 10x42 and 10x32 hand held for nocturnal wildlife, which one will resolve better details if the user is around 53 years old?
Even if I knew enough to take a shot at answering that, I wouldn’t.So with the help of spotlight at nite and using 10x42 and 10x32 hand held for nocturnal wildlife, which one will resolve better details if the user is around 53 years old?
The 10x42.....I'd be careful with that spotlight nocturnal wildlife will be running awaySo with the help of spotlight at nite and using 10x42 and 10x32 hand held for nocturnal wildlife, which one will resolve better details if the user is around 53 years old?
The range of movement is always the same. The pupil moves. It can be 3mm or 6mm in diameter. When it moves it moves regardless its diameter, something the Iris is responsible for.That is interesting. I didn't know that. What is the range of movement? Is that really as big as from 4.2 to 5mm and back, and than from 4.2 to 5mm again?
Regardless the size of the pupil, the pupil moves (the visible size of the pupil is decided by the Iris).Does that mean the pupil dilates and contracts or the pupil oscilates (as in nystagmus)?
Aaah ... your eyes must be different from mine. My pupils do not move when I look around while keeping my head still - my whole eye(ball) moves. I did not know that pupils could move independently from the rest of the eye. Learn something every day.Regardless the size of the pupil, the pupil moves (the visible size of the pupil is decided by the Iris).
Otherwise we should only see the object straight ahead of the view.
You're quite right. The eyeball moves (so the pupil moves). Sorry for the confusion. I'm just Dutch.Aaah ... your eyes must be different from mine. My pupils do not move when I look around while keeping my head still - my whole eye(ball) moves. I did not know that pupils could move independently from the rest of the eye. Learn something every day.
I think the image is not wrong, but it would mean that if you look at a point source, in those circumstances (same eye's pupil size, and exit pupil of 8 mag bino too big compared to the eye) the point source would look brighter in the 10x bino. Now an extended image, say you look at the wall, would look the same brightness in both binos because, although the 10x bino gathers more light, it also magnifies and stretches the image comapred to the 8x.View attachment 1573194
Thanks for all the answers! I received the book, but haven't read it yet. So maybe I will get some answers while reading it.
But for now I still don't understand it totally what is wrong with the assumption I made and visualised in this picture. Can somebody explain what is wrong? Although Jan van Daalen already made a comment that the size of the pupil changes constantly (but up to 5.25mm?). However, is that the only reason this theory is wrong?
Let‘s assume two binoculars of the same quality:If you take an image and magnify it by 2X, the area of the image is then four times what it was at 1X.
It cannot be as bright as it was at 1X, because it is the same quantity of light, but spread out over a larger area.
I don’t know any other way to say it.
Let‘s assume two binoculars of the same quality:
8x42
10x42
The 10x is only 20% dimmer and gives 25% more detail, as long as your eye pupil did not exceed 4.2mm.
Because of higher magnification the 10x is 56.25% dimmer as the 8x (quadratic effect), BUT the 10x concentrates the same incoming light (both are 42mm, also quadratic effect of the size of the aperture) across a smaller exit pupil, so there is an effect that the light is 25% more concentrated (brighter) for the 10x. Thats why the 10x is just 20% dimmer than the 8x of same quality, as long as your eyes pupil is not bigger than 4.2mm.
But the effect of 25% more detail of a 10x against an 8x is slightly more important at low light than a brighter image IMHO:
In low light your eyes are not resolving as good as at bright day. So a binocular that prefers detail over brightness is slightly better to actually see detail at all.
There are types of hunting where you hunt from a hide at close range, just a few meters (lets say 10-30 meters or so), then the detail you get from an 8x might be enough to see that animal but you might not be able to tell if it‘s a male or female or what age the animal has.
(I am not a hunter, I just did some math)