Chris Gooddie
Well-known member
In January this year I was finally able to get back to Ecuador to complete the itinerary planned for last year which had to be postponed due to things kicking off. I enjoyed a truly amazing 12 days’ birding in Ecuador con mi amigo Troy Shortell and our guide Marcelo Quipo. Highlights below; new birds for me below are in SHOUTY CAPS.
Our plan was to target 15-20 key species NW of Quito and on the Guacamayos Ridge on the Andean East Slope SE of Quito, focussing on those key birds and seeing what else we bumped into along the way. Our original itinerary changed quite a bit as we went along, due in part to the security situation in the far NW of Ecuador (Esmeraldas state is still definitely no-go N. of and including Santo Domingo) but mostly according to how well our target birds were being achieved. To say we did well would be an understatement; Marcelo managed to help us to find every single major target except for Rufous-crowned Antpitta which would not play ball despite repeated efforts at multiple sites. If you need an Ecuadorian guide he is highly recommended. We experienced zero security issues and everyone we met was welcoming and friendly. Weather was very wet as is to be expected in January, but full metal poncho was only required a couple of times and our birding was only rarely compromised.
We landed in Quito on the evening of 9th Jan and Marcelo met us at the airport; we decamped to the nearby Alpachaca Hotel which was to become our home from home every time we returned to Quito, transiting from one birding area to another via the capital.
Day #1 10th Jan Our first birding day was 90 mins NW of Quito around Tandayapa/Yanacocha, at altitudes of up to 3,400m, so a breathless introduction. We were above the cloud forest prior to dawn and had spotlit views of IMPERIAL SNIPE- a great start! However better was to come- we birded the Camino Herradura trail in the same area from first light and I finally laid eyes on UNDULATED ANTPITTA after so many years of close but unsuccessful encounters. They are big units! Further down the same trail we found a small flock of CROWNED CHAT-TYRANTS before flushing a 2nd Imperial Snipe, enjoying fabulous views for 15 mins as the bird perched motionless on a mossy bough. In the afternoon we stopped by the Calacali pass just W of Quito (where as always I failed to connect with White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant- I missed it at the same site on my last visit to Ecuador in Feb. 2006!) before ending the day birding along the entrance road to Angel Paz’s place. The latter site delivered roosting Rufous-bellied Nighthawks/ a male Lyre-tailed Nightjar, plus Rufous-breasted Antthrush, Scaled Fruiteater and Nariño Tapaculo. Night in a funky if slightly battered eco-hotel in central Mindo.
Day #2 11th Jan found us at the San Jorge Ecolodge on the Ecoruta Milpe-Pachijal, a little further West of Mindo. Dawn birding yielded a Spotted Nightingale-Thrush, Golden-winged Manakins and covey of Rufous-fronted Wood-Quails at a feeder, but the highlights came later in the morning, First a pair of ESMERALDA’S ANTBIRDS, an ORANGE-CRESTED FLYCATCHER and a responsive SCALY-THROATED LEAFTOSSER. However all of these were blown out of the water when we chanced upon an antswarm. The number of attendant antbirds was low- just a few Bicoloured Antbirds- but after some diligent scanning of the forest floor we finally unearthed a BANDED GROUND CUCKOO! This was my first GC, and it did not disappoint- absolutely jaw-dropping. We watched the bird for half an hour whilst constantly fighting off ant invasions, before it disappeared deeper into the forest. Que bueno! We returned to the lodge for lunch and watched birds at the feeders- the usual mixed tanager flocks plus a Blackburnian Warbler (the first of many on the trip) Green Thorntail, Orange-billed Sparrows, Collared Araçaris and Choco Toucans, and once the torrential rain had stopped, a small group of PALLID DOVES coming to the feeder below the veranda. In the afternoon we pioneered at the seldom-birded Pais Tropical forest near Mashpi, on the trail of Berlepsch’s Tinamou and Rufous-crowned Antpitta, but the heavy rain made birding tough and the birds unresponsive. We did manage to find two Purple-throated Fruit-Crows, a Checker-throated Stipplethroat, Russet Antshrike, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Great Tinamou, and a NORTHERN SCHIFFORNIS and SPOT-CROWNED ANTVIREO before squelching back to the 4x4. Sleep in Mindo was at a premium due to salas de karaoke y discotecas blasting out til 4am. Bienvenidos a sabado noche en Mindo!
Day#3 12th Jan: We drove bleary-eyed up to the Reserva Amagusa Mashpi to bird from first light, and the level of activity from the viewing balcony was stunning- birds everywhere! Rufous-throated Tanagers, Choco Brushfinches, flocks of Rose-faced Parrots, Golden-collared Honeyeaters, no less than 4 Moss-backed Tanagers, 1 White-throated Quail-Dove, a pair of Orange-breasted Fruiteaters, Zeledon’s Antbirds, a couple of Indigo Flowerpiercers and a single Black Solitaire. The cavalcade continued over breakfast with Velvet-purple Coronet and Purple-bibbed Whitetip and a pair of Toucan Barbets. Later in the morning we birded lower down at c900m and picked up Brown-billed Scythebill, White-throated Spadebill and enjoyed great views of a responsive Black-headed Antthrush. A pair of the scarce BAUDO GUAN were new for me, but the spot at which Marcelo had brought in a Rufous-crowned Antpitta two weeks previously failed to deliver- not a sniff. Our lunch was rudely interrupted when a staff member alerted us to the fact that a pair of DARK-BACKED WOOD-QUAIL had showed up below the balcony, so we ran back and enjoyed great views. In the afternoon we birded around the nearby Santa Rosa Birding Lodge, picking up Yellow-breasted Antpitta and Plate-billed Mountain Toucans before heavy rain drove us back to Mindo. By the time we got back to town the weather had improved enough to find Western Emerald, Red-faced Spinetails and a few COOPMAN’S ELAENIAS in trashy habitat on the edge of town.
On Day #4 13th Jan: we returned to Pais Tropical targetting Rufous-crowned Antpitta and Berlepsch’s Tinamou again. (The former must be in this forest, as it’s contiguous with the Mashpi Shungo site where the Antpittas were formerly habituated and used to show up regularly (Shungalita and the chocolate factory). Sadly though, since the COVID pandemic they have disappeared from Mashpi Shungo). The tinamou had been seen at PT the morning before our first visit, so hopes were high. However the weather was a little colder, the forest was eerily quiet, and we failed to even hear either target. Nonetheless we scored some good birds, including PACIFIC FLATBILL, SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER, Dot-winged Antwren, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Ochre-breasted Tanagers, a Slaty Antwren, another Northern Schiffornis etc. A return visit to the Calacali Pass for the Shirike-Tyrant was no more successful than our previous visit- the birds appeared to have moved, perhaps due to the major construction project in the valley below their favoured slope? Two STREAK-BACKED CANASTEROS, a load of Golden-bellied Grosbeaks plus Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches and a Band-tailed Seedeater were some compensation.
Day #5 14th Jan: We ascended to the paramo on the W edge of the vast Artisana NP, and quickly found a couple of Andean Condors, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Cinereous Harrier, a flock of Black-winged Ground Doves and a Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant or two, before picking up a pair of ANDEAN IBIS which showed beautifully close to the road. A PARAMO PIPIT display-flighted for us a little further on, and our only Andean Foxes of the trip scampered about in the distance in search of prey. Having acclimatised to the altitude a little over the last few days, we braced ourselves for the Papallacta Pass, where we found ECUADORIAN HILLSTARS feeding on flowers just off the main road. Tawny Antpittas were calling from every nook and cranny, and the usual paramo suspects showed up- another Andean Condor, Plain-capped Ground-Tyrants, Plumbeous Sierra-Finches, Chestnut-winged Cinclodes and a Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant. We drove up to the telecomms station at c4,600m (passport may be required to access this road) where Troy posed for selfies with an incredibly confiding pair of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes. We clambered around the upper slopes, painfully aware of the lack of oxygen up here, but despite Herculean efforts we failed to find any Andean Snipe (aka Jameson's Snipe).
Day #6 15th Jan: We visited the property of a friend of Marcelo’s called Hacienda Varé North of Ibarra near the town of Lita. GOLDEN-CHESTED TANAGER another Baudo Guan and a Scarlet-and-White Tanager were early highlights at the forest edge, before the serious trail-bashing began. We worked very hard but struggled to connect with much along the trail on another cool and wet morning. A brief TOOTH-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD was a decent reward, as were a YELLOW-GREEN BUSH TANAGER, a female Spot-crowned Antvireo and a LITA WOODPECKER, but the star of the morning was undoubtedly two SAPAYOAS which showed up in a mixed flock after much searching. Their scientific name says it all- Sapayoa aenigma- their closest relatives are the Asian Broadbills! It’s a species that had gripped both Troy and I since we first read about it, so we were delighted to connect. A Choco Manakin showed up at the forest edge as we were leaving, and after hours of trawling we finally heard a Berlepsch’s Tinamou close by. We crept back into the forest and played tape, but despite a couple of vocalisations the bird remained largely unresponsive, and we departed empty-handed. In the afternoon we birded some scrub habitat picking up Scrub Tanager and a surprise pair of Pacific Parrotlets, whiling away some time until it got dark. Marcelo has a professor friend in Quito who called him a while back to say that he had an owl on his property, so Marcelo duly dropped by to investigate. We were very glad he did, because within an hour of arriving at the hacienda we were enjoying incredible views of a supremely co-operative BUFF-FRONTED OWL! We had really not expected a chance of connecting with this mythical beast. Unfortunately since the site is on private property there is no general access- so you need to go with Marcelo to have a chance of scoring.
Day #7 16th Jan: Having spent the night N. of Ibarra we climbed up the dirt road to Cerro Mongus. The road was so bad after the endless rain that eventually we had to abandon the 4x4 and walk up to the paramo at c3,600m. Hooded Mountain Tanagers, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrants, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrants and a couple of Black-thighed Pufflegs entertained us we slowly gained altitude, and after a session at the forest edge we luxuriated in great views of a Crescent-faced Antpitta, a major target for Troy. Having climbed up to the paramo proper we reached the upper forest, and before too long had connected with our other main target, MASKED MOUNTAIN TANAGER- result! The walk down was easier, and enlivened by an Ash-Coloured Tapaculo and an Andean Guan.
Day #8 17th Jan: We retuned to Papallacta and breakfasted at La Lagunita Restaurant overlooking the Laguna de Papallacta. Low water levels meant that the usual Slate-coloured Coots and Silvery Grebes were absent, but we did find Andean Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail and a pair of duetting Pale-naped Brush-Finches. We crossed back to the other side of the pass where our only Aplomado Falcon of the trip showed up. Forensic searching for our mammal target on the hillsides along the main road ensued, with Black-crested Warblers, Cinereous Conebills and Spectacled Whitestarts showing up to entertain us. Eventually we gave up the quest, but we'd barely restarted our journey East in our 4X4 when I picked up a large black shape on the adjacent hillside. We screeched to a halt and were soon enjoying scope views of a SPECTACLED BEAR feeding on bromeliads- cue celebrations. Suitably encouraged we returned to the telecomms station in the high paramo above the pass to renew our snipe search. A Blue-mantled Thornbill fed on the short vegetation, but avian density was very low in this extreme, specialised habitat. Nonetheless, after a lot of anaerobic yomping we finally heard a snipe respond to our tape, and a few minutes later after one last cardiac-arrest-inducing cliff ascent we were finally photographing an ANDEAN SNIPE amongst the clumps of tussock grass. Determination rewarded, though it was decidedly difficult to keep the cameras still with our chests heaving : ) We drove East and had lunch with Marcelo’s daughters in his home town of Baeza, before dropping in to La Brisa just to the South to watch the feeders for a while. A Black-chested Fruiteater called once but we couldn’t locate it and had to make do with a Chestnut-bellied Thrush, Peruvian Rackettail, Long-tailed Tapaculo, and Black-capped- and Saffron-crowned Tanagers. We drove further South, trying and failing to find Torrrent Ducks for Troy, which became a regular theme.
Day #9 18th Jan: after a decent night’s sleep in the welcoming Hospedaje Nancy in Cosanga we left early to ensure we were on the ’Sendero Jumandy’ that traverses the top of the famous Guacamayos Ridge. An amazing day’s birding ensued, one of my best ever. Slate-crowned-, White-bellied and Chestnut-crowned Antpittas were calling everywhere, and WATTLED GUAN was an early highlight as it clomped about in the canopy before departing. We then set to for the serious skirmishing with our key targets, and before too long we’d had poor views of a responsive BARRED ANTTHRUSH! Having waited so long to see this species the views were really disappointing, but nonetheless I had finally seen one of the damn things- a sense of achievement if not of satisfaction. We tried all of Marcelo’s known territories for our other main Guacamayos target, but got no response at all. The rain and cold weather were against us. 4kms down the trail we stopped again, and Marcelo whispered: 'este es el mejor territorio’. He played the quiet, inconsequential down-slurred ’tsew’ that passes for a Grallaricula song, and a sudden movement in the mid-storey alerted us to the arrival of the second of my most-wanted South American targets. A few seconds later we were all watching a male PERUVIAN ANTPITTA perched on a branch at eye level. My last of the accessible Grallaricula Antpittas and a truly welcome sight- super-cute as with all Grallariculas. (Now I just need access to the sp. novum ‘Dancing Antpitta’ in Colombia to open up, and for the safety situation in Venezuela to improve so I can go find the two there, and I can die happy).
In the afternoon we returned to the ridge and tried a different Barred Antthrush territory, and this time the bird came in close and spent an age walking too and fro in cover, pausing to sing now and then and giving us incredible views- waaaaaahoooo! As we walked back up the ridge towards the road Marcelo suddenly became animated and said that he could hear a pair of WHITE-FACED NUNBIRD calling- a few minutes later we had called them in, and they posed for photos on an exposed canopy twig. Not half bad as a support act! Late in the day we watched flocks of swifts heading West over the ridge having spent the day feeding over lowland Amazonia to the East. The mixed species flocks included White-collared- and Spot-fronted-, and much to my satisfaction, also WHITE-CHINNED SWIFTS and WHITE-CHESTED SWIFTS. A fine end to an unbelievable day- my #1 and #2 SA targets both seen well and photographed in a single day, with the mythical nunbird as a bonus- it doesn’t get any better than that.
Day #10 19th Jan: Another check of the river in Cosanga finally revealed an Immature Torrent Duck, much to Troy’s delight, before we returned to the Guacamayos Ridge trail to try to nail our final ridge speciality. Activity was good with Black-headed- and Black-eared Hemispinguses, a Green-fronted Lancebill, a pair of Green-and-Black Fruiteaters and a Rufous-crowned Tody Flycatcher all showing up, but all were eclipsed by the arrival of the space alien that is Ocellated Tapaculo. It stormed in and sang at point blank range for an age, allowing us to sneak around to search for gaps in the understorey to secure our photos. A Chestnut-crowned Antpitta showed briefly, but we struggled to find our target- a mixed flock containing furnarids. Finally as were walking back up the trail we found a group of Pearled Treerunners, and with them a silent and unresponsive but nevertheless present and undeniable GREATER SCYTHEBILL. The last ridge speciality had fallen, and we departed in high spirits. Later we twice walked the road by the world-famous San Isidro Lodge, finding Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet, Marble-faced- and Variegated Tyrannulets, Flavescent Flyctacher and an Oleaginous Hemispingus, but despite hearing one distantly, Black-crested Fruiteater continued to elude us. Our second session brought us out into more open forest, where we found a pair of Black-billed Mountain Toucans and a small group of Crested Quetzals; one of the males performed an up-and-down display flight which was much appreciated. In the evening we used the last of the light to bring in a Slate-crowned Antpitta- never waste an opportunity to see another Grallaricula- before attempting a night-birding session behind the transmitters at the head of the trail. It quickly became clear however that it was way too foggy for Andean Potoo or Swallow-tailed Nightjar, so we adjourned for a beer and my latest appalling attempt at a Spanglish broma del dia.
Day #11 20th Jan and after thanking Nancy for her hospitality, we drove SE into the lowlands to a newly created antpitta feeder site near Rukullacta, North of Archidona- 'Los Gralarias’. The Antpittas had clearly not been briefed about how to perform for ecotourists, but we did manage a very brief flight view of Thrush-like Antpitta, and just before 11am, after we had given up all hope, a WHITE-LORED ANTPITTA finally came in to the worm stash. It spent a couple of minutes wolfing the lot before melting back into the forest- yaaaay! Other attractions included a roosting Great Potoo with an unbearably cute chick on a sunlit stump, and a totally unexpected pair of the rare FULVOUS ANTSHRIKE, a recent split from Undulated Antshrike which got Marcelo enthusing. A Stripe-chested Antwren in the scrub on the way out was nice parting shot. After checking into the Hotel Yurak in Archidona we drove an hour South and killed an hour birding the disused Aeropuerto Jumandy, before taking a longboat along the Rio Arajuno to a property on the river. We climbed the bamboo tower and waited. A Long-billed Starthroat started the show, and at 530pm, just as promised in the brochure, 4 FIERY TOPAZ showed up and lekked for half an hour on a bamboo spike erected for the purpose.
Day #12 21st Jan and our last birding day. We returned to Los Gralarias and immediately encountered a great secondary forest mixed flock which contained Lined Antshrike, Blackpoll- Blackburnian- and Canada- Warblers, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Chivi- and Yellow-green- Vireos, Orange-fronted Plushcrowns, Olive-faced Flatbill, Blue-fronted Lancebill, Yellow-bellied- and Black-faced Dacnises, Grey-crowned Flycatcher (Flatbill) Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Green-and-Gold-, Summer-, Turqouise- and Scarlet Tanagers and a host of others. By the time we reached the first of the three antpitta feeders it was past 8am, but the Thrush-like Antpitta was in the mood and as we arrived was sat on the horizontal branches close to the feeder singing in full view, a spectacle which continued for minutes on end. Suitably satiated we departed to start the c5 hour drive back to Quito, but stopped off at a couple of spots East of and below the Guacamayos Ridge. This delivered results in terms of scarce tanagers: Yellow-throated-, Rufous-crested-, Blue-browed-, Golden-eared- and Orange-eared Tanagers all featured in the mixed flocks, and a Sierran Elaenia made a brief appearance. However the very last stop provided a suitable finalé…after a lot of playback we finally struck lucky and heard a high-pitched whistle close enough to track down. After a full thirty minutes of scanning I finally picked up the source, a male BLACK-CHESTED FRUITEATER which lead us a merry dance, constantly moving furtively though the canopy but eventually allowing itself to be photographed.
During one final log call on the way back to Quito we totalled up our trip species and realised that the fruiteater was #500 for the trip. 41 new birds for me, and c190 for Troy, and amongst them a good number of Ecuador's/South America’s toughest species. We thoroughly enjoyed an incredible trip which wildly exceeded our expectations; big thanks to Marcelo.
Our plan was to target 15-20 key species NW of Quito and on the Guacamayos Ridge on the Andean East Slope SE of Quito, focussing on those key birds and seeing what else we bumped into along the way. Our original itinerary changed quite a bit as we went along, due in part to the security situation in the far NW of Ecuador (Esmeraldas state is still definitely no-go N. of and including Santo Domingo) but mostly according to how well our target birds were being achieved. To say we did well would be an understatement; Marcelo managed to help us to find every single major target except for Rufous-crowned Antpitta which would not play ball despite repeated efforts at multiple sites. If you need an Ecuadorian guide he is highly recommended. We experienced zero security issues and everyone we met was welcoming and friendly. Weather was very wet as is to be expected in January, but full metal poncho was only required a couple of times and our birding was only rarely compromised.
We landed in Quito on the evening of 9th Jan and Marcelo met us at the airport; we decamped to the nearby Alpachaca Hotel which was to become our home from home every time we returned to Quito, transiting from one birding area to another via the capital.
Day #1 10th Jan Our first birding day was 90 mins NW of Quito around Tandayapa/Yanacocha, at altitudes of up to 3,400m, so a breathless introduction. We were above the cloud forest prior to dawn and had spotlit views of IMPERIAL SNIPE- a great start! However better was to come- we birded the Camino Herradura trail in the same area from first light and I finally laid eyes on UNDULATED ANTPITTA after so many years of close but unsuccessful encounters. They are big units! Further down the same trail we found a small flock of CROWNED CHAT-TYRANTS before flushing a 2nd Imperial Snipe, enjoying fabulous views for 15 mins as the bird perched motionless on a mossy bough. In the afternoon we stopped by the Calacali pass just W of Quito (where as always I failed to connect with White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant- I missed it at the same site on my last visit to Ecuador in Feb. 2006!) before ending the day birding along the entrance road to Angel Paz’s place. The latter site delivered roosting Rufous-bellied Nighthawks/ a male Lyre-tailed Nightjar, plus Rufous-breasted Antthrush, Scaled Fruiteater and Nariño Tapaculo. Night in a funky if slightly battered eco-hotel in central Mindo.
Day #2 11th Jan found us at the San Jorge Ecolodge on the Ecoruta Milpe-Pachijal, a little further West of Mindo. Dawn birding yielded a Spotted Nightingale-Thrush, Golden-winged Manakins and covey of Rufous-fronted Wood-Quails at a feeder, but the highlights came later in the morning, First a pair of ESMERALDA’S ANTBIRDS, an ORANGE-CRESTED FLYCATCHER and a responsive SCALY-THROATED LEAFTOSSER. However all of these were blown out of the water when we chanced upon an antswarm. The number of attendant antbirds was low- just a few Bicoloured Antbirds- but after some diligent scanning of the forest floor we finally unearthed a BANDED GROUND CUCKOO! This was my first GC, and it did not disappoint- absolutely jaw-dropping. We watched the bird for half an hour whilst constantly fighting off ant invasions, before it disappeared deeper into the forest. Que bueno! We returned to the lodge for lunch and watched birds at the feeders- the usual mixed tanager flocks plus a Blackburnian Warbler (the first of many on the trip) Green Thorntail, Orange-billed Sparrows, Collared Araçaris and Choco Toucans, and once the torrential rain had stopped, a small group of PALLID DOVES coming to the feeder below the veranda. In the afternoon we pioneered at the seldom-birded Pais Tropical forest near Mashpi, on the trail of Berlepsch’s Tinamou and Rufous-crowned Antpitta, but the heavy rain made birding tough and the birds unresponsive. We did manage to find two Purple-throated Fruit-Crows, a Checker-throated Stipplethroat, Russet Antshrike, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Great Tinamou, and a NORTHERN SCHIFFORNIS and SPOT-CROWNED ANTVIREO before squelching back to the 4x4. Sleep in Mindo was at a premium due to salas de karaoke y discotecas blasting out til 4am. Bienvenidos a sabado noche en Mindo!
Day#3 12th Jan: We drove bleary-eyed up to the Reserva Amagusa Mashpi to bird from first light, and the level of activity from the viewing balcony was stunning- birds everywhere! Rufous-throated Tanagers, Choco Brushfinches, flocks of Rose-faced Parrots, Golden-collared Honeyeaters, no less than 4 Moss-backed Tanagers, 1 White-throated Quail-Dove, a pair of Orange-breasted Fruiteaters, Zeledon’s Antbirds, a couple of Indigo Flowerpiercers and a single Black Solitaire. The cavalcade continued over breakfast with Velvet-purple Coronet and Purple-bibbed Whitetip and a pair of Toucan Barbets. Later in the morning we birded lower down at c900m and picked up Brown-billed Scythebill, White-throated Spadebill and enjoyed great views of a responsive Black-headed Antthrush. A pair of the scarce BAUDO GUAN were new for me, but the spot at which Marcelo had brought in a Rufous-crowned Antpitta two weeks previously failed to deliver- not a sniff. Our lunch was rudely interrupted when a staff member alerted us to the fact that a pair of DARK-BACKED WOOD-QUAIL had showed up below the balcony, so we ran back and enjoyed great views. In the afternoon we birded around the nearby Santa Rosa Birding Lodge, picking up Yellow-breasted Antpitta and Plate-billed Mountain Toucans before heavy rain drove us back to Mindo. By the time we got back to town the weather had improved enough to find Western Emerald, Red-faced Spinetails and a few COOPMAN’S ELAENIAS in trashy habitat on the edge of town.
On Day #4 13th Jan: we returned to Pais Tropical targetting Rufous-crowned Antpitta and Berlepsch’s Tinamou again. (The former must be in this forest, as it’s contiguous with the Mashpi Shungo site where the Antpittas were formerly habituated and used to show up regularly (Shungalita and the chocolate factory). Sadly though, since the COVID pandemic they have disappeared from Mashpi Shungo). The tinamou had been seen at PT the morning before our first visit, so hopes were high. However the weather was a little colder, the forest was eerily quiet, and we failed to even hear either target. Nonetheless we scored some good birds, including PACIFIC FLATBILL, SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER, Dot-winged Antwren, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Ochre-breasted Tanagers, a Slaty Antwren, another Northern Schiffornis etc. A return visit to the Calacali Pass for the Shirike-Tyrant was no more successful than our previous visit- the birds appeared to have moved, perhaps due to the major construction project in the valley below their favoured slope? Two STREAK-BACKED CANASTEROS, a load of Golden-bellied Grosbeaks plus Ash-breasted Sierra-Finches and a Band-tailed Seedeater were some compensation.
Day #5 14th Jan: We ascended to the paramo on the W edge of the vast Artisana NP, and quickly found a couple of Andean Condors, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Cinereous Harrier, a flock of Black-winged Ground Doves and a Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant or two, before picking up a pair of ANDEAN IBIS which showed beautifully close to the road. A PARAMO PIPIT display-flighted for us a little further on, and our only Andean Foxes of the trip scampered about in the distance in search of prey. Having acclimatised to the altitude a little over the last few days, we braced ourselves for the Papallacta Pass, where we found ECUADORIAN HILLSTARS feeding on flowers just off the main road. Tawny Antpittas were calling from every nook and cranny, and the usual paramo suspects showed up- another Andean Condor, Plain-capped Ground-Tyrants, Plumbeous Sierra-Finches, Chestnut-winged Cinclodes and a Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant. We drove up to the telecomms station at c4,600m (passport may be required to access this road) where Troy posed for selfies with an incredibly confiding pair of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes. We clambered around the upper slopes, painfully aware of the lack of oxygen up here, but despite Herculean efforts we failed to find any Andean Snipe (aka Jameson's Snipe).
Day #6 15th Jan: We visited the property of a friend of Marcelo’s called Hacienda Varé North of Ibarra near the town of Lita. GOLDEN-CHESTED TANAGER another Baudo Guan and a Scarlet-and-White Tanager were early highlights at the forest edge, before the serious trail-bashing began. We worked very hard but struggled to connect with much along the trail on another cool and wet morning. A brief TOOTH-BILLED HUMMINGBIRD was a decent reward, as were a YELLOW-GREEN BUSH TANAGER, a female Spot-crowned Antvireo and a LITA WOODPECKER, but the star of the morning was undoubtedly two SAPAYOAS which showed up in a mixed flock after much searching. Their scientific name says it all- Sapayoa aenigma- their closest relatives are the Asian Broadbills! It’s a species that had gripped both Troy and I since we first read about it, so we were delighted to connect. A Choco Manakin showed up at the forest edge as we were leaving, and after hours of trawling we finally heard a Berlepsch’s Tinamou close by. We crept back into the forest and played tape, but despite a couple of vocalisations the bird remained largely unresponsive, and we departed empty-handed. In the afternoon we birded some scrub habitat picking up Scrub Tanager and a surprise pair of Pacific Parrotlets, whiling away some time until it got dark. Marcelo has a professor friend in Quito who called him a while back to say that he had an owl on his property, so Marcelo duly dropped by to investigate. We were very glad he did, because within an hour of arriving at the hacienda we were enjoying incredible views of a supremely co-operative BUFF-FRONTED OWL! We had really not expected a chance of connecting with this mythical beast. Unfortunately since the site is on private property there is no general access- so you need to go with Marcelo to have a chance of scoring.
Day #7 16th Jan: Having spent the night N. of Ibarra we climbed up the dirt road to Cerro Mongus. The road was so bad after the endless rain that eventually we had to abandon the 4x4 and walk up to the paramo at c3,600m. Hooded Mountain Tanagers, Streak-throated Bush-Tyrants, Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrants and a couple of Black-thighed Pufflegs entertained us we slowly gained altitude, and after a session at the forest edge we luxuriated in great views of a Crescent-faced Antpitta, a major target for Troy. Having climbed up to the paramo proper we reached the upper forest, and before too long had connected with our other main target, MASKED MOUNTAIN TANAGER- result! The walk down was easier, and enlivened by an Ash-Coloured Tapaculo and an Andean Guan.
Day #8 17th Jan: We retuned to Papallacta and breakfasted at La Lagunita Restaurant overlooking the Laguna de Papallacta. Low water levels meant that the usual Slate-coloured Coots and Silvery Grebes were absent, but we did find Andean Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail and a pair of duetting Pale-naped Brush-Finches. We crossed back to the other side of the pass where our only Aplomado Falcon of the trip showed up. Forensic searching for our mammal target on the hillsides along the main road ensued, with Black-crested Warblers, Cinereous Conebills and Spectacled Whitestarts showing up to entertain us. Eventually we gave up the quest, but we'd barely restarted our journey East in our 4X4 when I picked up a large black shape on the adjacent hillside. We screeched to a halt and were soon enjoying scope views of a SPECTACLED BEAR feeding on bromeliads- cue celebrations. Suitably encouraged we returned to the telecomms station in the high paramo above the pass to renew our snipe search. A Blue-mantled Thornbill fed on the short vegetation, but avian density was very low in this extreme, specialised habitat. Nonetheless, after a lot of anaerobic yomping we finally heard a snipe respond to our tape, and a few minutes later after one last cardiac-arrest-inducing cliff ascent we were finally photographing an ANDEAN SNIPE amongst the clumps of tussock grass. Determination rewarded, though it was decidedly difficult to keep the cameras still with our chests heaving : ) We drove East and had lunch with Marcelo’s daughters in his home town of Baeza, before dropping in to La Brisa just to the South to watch the feeders for a while. A Black-chested Fruiteater called once but we couldn’t locate it and had to make do with a Chestnut-bellied Thrush, Peruvian Rackettail, Long-tailed Tapaculo, and Black-capped- and Saffron-crowned Tanagers. We drove further South, trying and failing to find Torrrent Ducks for Troy, which became a regular theme.
Day #9 18th Jan: after a decent night’s sleep in the welcoming Hospedaje Nancy in Cosanga we left early to ensure we were on the ’Sendero Jumandy’ that traverses the top of the famous Guacamayos Ridge. An amazing day’s birding ensued, one of my best ever. Slate-crowned-, White-bellied and Chestnut-crowned Antpittas were calling everywhere, and WATTLED GUAN was an early highlight as it clomped about in the canopy before departing. We then set to for the serious skirmishing with our key targets, and before too long we’d had poor views of a responsive BARRED ANTTHRUSH! Having waited so long to see this species the views were really disappointing, but nonetheless I had finally seen one of the damn things- a sense of achievement if not of satisfaction. We tried all of Marcelo’s known territories for our other main Guacamayos target, but got no response at all. The rain and cold weather were against us. 4kms down the trail we stopped again, and Marcelo whispered: 'este es el mejor territorio’. He played the quiet, inconsequential down-slurred ’tsew’ that passes for a Grallaricula song, and a sudden movement in the mid-storey alerted us to the arrival of the second of my most-wanted South American targets. A few seconds later we were all watching a male PERUVIAN ANTPITTA perched on a branch at eye level. My last of the accessible Grallaricula Antpittas and a truly welcome sight- super-cute as with all Grallariculas. (Now I just need access to the sp. novum ‘Dancing Antpitta’ in Colombia to open up, and for the safety situation in Venezuela to improve so I can go find the two there, and I can die happy).
In the afternoon we returned to the ridge and tried a different Barred Antthrush territory, and this time the bird came in close and spent an age walking too and fro in cover, pausing to sing now and then and giving us incredible views- waaaaaahoooo! As we walked back up the ridge towards the road Marcelo suddenly became animated and said that he could hear a pair of WHITE-FACED NUNBIRD calling- a few minutes later we had called them in, and they posed for photos on an exposed canopy twig. Not half bad as a support act! Late in the day we watched flocks of swifts heading West over the ridge having spent the day feeding over lowland Amazonia to the East. The mixed species flocks included White-collared- and Spot-fronted-, and much to my satisfaction, also WHITE-CHINNED SWIFTS and WHITE-CHESTED SWIFTS. A fine end to an unbelievable day- my #1 and #2 SA targets both seen well and photographed in a single day, with the mythical nunbird as a bonus- it doesn’t get any better than that.
Day #10 19th Jan: Another check of the river in Cosanga finally revealed an Immature Torrent Duck, much to Troy’s delight, before we returned to the Guacamayos Ridge trail to try to nail our final ridge speciality. Activity was good with Black-headed- and Black-eared Hemispinguses, a Green-fronted Lancebill, a pair of Green-and-Black Fruiteaters and a Rufous-crowned Tody Flycatcher all showing up, but all were eclipsed by the arrival of the space alien that is Ocellated Tapaculo. It stormed in and sang at point blank range for an age, allowing us to sneak around to search for gaps in the understorey to secure our photos. A Chestnut-crowned Antpitta showed briefly, but we struggled to find our target- a mixed flock containing furnarids. Finally as were walking back up the trail we found a group of Pearled Treerunners, and with them a silent and unresponsive but nevertheless present and undeniable GREATER SCYTHEBILL. The last ridge speciality had fallen, and we departed in high spirits. Later we twice walked the road by the world-famous San Isidro Lodge, finding Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet, Marble-faced- and Variegated Tyrannulets, Flavescent Flyctacher and an Oleaginous Hemispingus, but despite hearing one distantly, Black-crested Fruiteater continued to elude us. Our second session brought us out into more open forest, where we found a pair of Black-billed Mountain Toucans and a small group of Crested Quetzals; one of the males performed an up-and-down display flight which was much appreciated. In the evening we used the last of the light to bring in a Slate-crowned Antpitta- never waste an opportunity to see another Grallaricula- before attempting a night-birding session behind the transmitters at the head of the trail. It quickly became clear however that it was way too foggy for Andean Potoo or Swallow-tailed Nightjar, so we adjourned for a beer and my latest appalling attempt at a Spanglish broma del dia.
Day #11 20th Jan and after thanking Nancy for her hospitality, we drove SE into the lowlands to a newly created antpitta feeder site near Rukullacta, North of Archidona- 'Los Gralarias’. The Antpittas had clearly not been briefed about how to perform for ecotourists, but we did manage a very brief flight view of Thrush-like Antpitta, and just before 11am, after we had given up all hope, a WHITE-LORED ANTPITTA finally came in to the worm stash. It spent a couple of minutes wolfing the lot before melting back into the forest- yaaaay! Other attractions included a roosting Great Potoo with an unbearably cute chick on a sunlit stump, and a totally unexpected pair of the rare FULVOUS ANTSHRIKE, a recent split from Undulated Antshrike which got Marcelo enthusing. A Stripe-chested Antwren in the scrub on the way out was nice parting shot. After checking into the Hotel Yurak in Archidona we drove an hour South and killed an hour birding the disused Aeropuerto Jumandy, before taking a longboat along the Rio Arajuno to a property on the river. We climbed the bamboo tower and waited. A Long-billed Starthroat started the show, and at 530pm, just as promised in the brochure, 4 FIERY TOPAZ showed up and lekked for half an hour on a bamboo spike erected for the purpose.
Day #12 21st Jan and our last birding day. We returned to Los Gralarias and immediately encountered a great secondary forest mixed flock which contained Lined Antshrike, Blackpoll- Blackburnian- and Canada- Warblers, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Chivi- and Yellow-green- Vireos, Orange-fronted Plushcrowns, Olive-faced Flatbill, Blue-fronted Lancebill, Yellow-bellied- and Black-faced Dacnises, Grey-crowned Flycatcher (Flatbill) Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Green-and-Gold-, Summer-, Turqouise- and Scarlet Tanagers and a host of others. By the time we reached the first of the three antpitta feeders it was past 8am, but the Thrush-like Antpitta was in the mood and as we arrived was sat on the horizontal branches close to the feeder singing in full view, a spectacle which continued for minutes on end. Suitably satiated we departed to start the c5 hour drive back to Quito, but stopped off at a couple of spots East of and below the Guacamayos Ridge. This delivered results in terms of scarce tanagers: Yellow-throated-, Rufous-crested-, Blue-browed-, Golden-eared- and Orange-eared Tanagers all featured in the mixed flocks, and a Sierran Elaenia made a brief appearance. However the very last stop provided a suitable finalé…after a lot of playback we finally struck lucky and heard a high-pitched whistle close enough to track down. After a full thirty minutes of scanning I finally picked up the source, a male BLACK-CHESTED FRUITEATER which lead us a merry dance, constantly moving furtively though the canopy but eventually allowing itself to be photographed.
During one final log call on the way back to Quito we totalled up our trip species and realised that the fruiteater was #500 for the trip. 41 new birds for me, and c190 for Troy, and amongst them a good number of Ecuador's/South America’s toughest species. We thoroughly enjoyed an incredible trip which wildly exceeded our expectations; big thanks to Marcelo.
Attachments
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ANDEAN_SNIPE_PAPALLACTA_ECUADOR_17JAN2025_1E1A7961_EDIT.jpeg -
BANDED_GROUND_CUCKOO_SANJOSE_ECOLODGE_ECUADOR_11JAN_2025_1E1A7003_EDIT.jpeg -
BARRED_ANTTHRUSH_GUACAMAYOS_RIDGE_ECUADOR_19JAN2025_1E1A8166_EDIT.jpeg -
BLACK-CHESTED_FRUITEATER_LWR_GUACAMAYOS_RIDGE_21JAN_2025_1E1A8585_EDIT.jpeg -
BLACK-HEADED_ANTTHRUSH_MASHPI_ECUADOR_12JAN2025_1E1A7230_EDIT.jpeg -
BUFF-FRONTED_OWL_HACIENDA_LA_BANDA_15JAN2025_1E1A7818_EDIT.jpeg -
CRESCENT-FACED_ANTPITTA_CERRO_MONGUS_16JAN2025_1E1A7827.jpeg -
FIERY_TOPAZ_ARAJUNO_RIVER_ECUADOR_20JAN_2025_1E1A8475_EDIT.jpeg -
IMPERIAL_SNIPE_TANDAYAPA_ECUADOR_10JAN_2025_1E1A6719_EDIT.jpeg -
OCELLATED_TAPACULO_GUACAMAYOS_RIDGE_ECUADOR_19JAN2025_1E1A8233_EDIT.jpeg -
PERUVIAN_ANTPITTA_GUACAMAYOS_RIDGE_ECUADOR_18JAN2025_1E1A8033_EDIT.jpeg -
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SPECTACLED_BEAR_PAPALLACTA_ECUADOR_17JAN2025_1E1A7895_EDIT.jpeg -
THRUSH-LIKE_ANTPITTA_LAS_GRALARIAS_ECUADOR_21JAN2025_1E1A8519_EDIT.jpeg -
WHITE-FACED_NUNBIRD_GUACAMAYOS_RIDGE_ECUADOR_19JAN2025_1E1A8131_EDIT.jpeg -
WHITE-LORED_ANTPITTA_LOS_GRALARIAS_ECUADOR_1E1A8396_EDIT.jpeg
