18th Oct
Back in Asuncion, the plan was to head out at 6 am to the Bahia. At 5, Paul was hammering at the door - we had all forgotten that the clocks changed last night! I threw on some clothes, grabbed the optics and we headed off to collect Rob Clay from his apartment before driving down to the bay. The site is a mixture of open grassy areas and scrub, with marshy bits and of course the shoreline of the river itself. This mix of habitats brings in a good variety of birds, including many interesting passage migrants.
Scanning the water, we picked up Least and Pied-billed Grebes, along with Striated Heron and a young Great Black-Hawk. A good variety of waders included Yankee Golden Plover, 5 Upland Sandpipers, a flock of Buff-breasts and best of all, a stately Hudsonian Godwit. Another 9 flew in from high above the city line later on, no doubt relieved to find a refuelling spot. Dark-billed Cuckoos were everywhere and Large Elaenia was calling. Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns quartered the water along with numbers of hirundines.
Rob birds the bay regularly as a local patch, and he had recorded some excellent species in recent weeks. Obviously, these were on my target list and first we checked out 'Dinelli's Triangle' - a patch of bushy scrub in a grassy area. Within minutes, we heard the target singing and soon pinned down a Dinelli's Doradito feeding in the low bushes. This is a rare and local flycatcher, which passes through the area annually. For a week or two before I left the UK, Paul and Rob had been giving me updates on their continued presence, but I had assumed they would be long gone by now so this was an unexpected bonus. In the same area were several Crested Doraditos, giving a nice comparison to the Dinelli's and provided another new species for me from this local and secretive genus.
Next we tried a real long-shot. Rob had seen a passage Ash-coloured Cuckoo here a few weeks earlier, giving him a site tick. We had scrutinised the Dark-billeds without success but decided to try playing some tape. Paul ran the call on repeat while I scanned, picking up singing White-bellied and Dark-throated and Rusty-collared Seedeaters. It took some time, but as I swung the scope around to check a bare sapling for the umpteenth time, an Ash-coloured Cuckoo popped into the lens. Crippling views of another secretive species!
Moving to the marshes, we tried unsuccessfully for South American Painted Snipe - Rob had had one here a few days earlier in a completely dry thicket! Throwing caution to the wind, Rob and I waded into the marsh and spent a very enjoyable time wading up and down the water (often up to the thighs) through dense vegetation and water hyacinths trying to flush the snipe. We succeeded with South American Snipe but bigger beans were to come. As we thrashed through a particularly dense patch of arums and hyacinths, a Spotted Rail fluttered up a few feet away and treated us to a lengthy flyby before going to cover. I stayed put and Rob circled behind it, leading to another even closer flyby - a beautiful intricately-marked rallid and well worth the soaking boots.
I thoroughly enjoyed the Bahia - lots of good birds in a surreal setting with Scarlet-headed Blackbirds and Yellow-rumped Marshbirds competing for attention. Unfortunately it did take a week to get the smell out of my boots..