dandsblair
David and Sarah
Philippines Feb 6th - 1st March 2025 (Luzon, Mindanao and Negros)
We had wanted to return to the Philippines since 2014 when we visited Luzon, Bohol, Cebu and Palawan. However we kept hoping that the security situation on Mindanao our prime target destination would improve but in the intervening years it got worse with the west of the island now off limits (a no travel advisory – from both UK and US) and more recently, travel not recommended to the rest of the country (apart from Davao where it is deemed OK by US).
We are aren’t getting any younger and with no improvements imminent and a May 25 election possibly causing further security issues. We discussed a trip with Alain Pascau from Birdfinders.ph at the 2024 Global Birdfair. Alain was pretty sure that he could put a safe itinerary together that got us access to the majority of the Mindanao endemics and other range restricted birds. Particularly if we were willing to be flexible and make changes if any security issues are highlighted in a radius around our birding our accommodation sites.
Birdfinders.ph did not have a foreign rep or any means of guaranteeing funds, getting ATOL bonding, etc. so he suggested we go through 2by2holidays (we dealt with Susan) who we dealt with throughout and had used on a previous trip to Namibia a couple of years ago.
We added Negros to the itinerary as offering a good haul of targets but decided not to add Northern Luzon as the birds on offer were not huge, so Luzon was just a stop off / relax destination.
The itinerary did change quite a bit through the 5 months since we arranged the trip, the main ones being staying 5 days in each of 2 locations in Mindanao and travelling from these; Malaybalay and Bislig to our birding sites. Then a few weeks before departure we had to drop Mt Tagubud and Compostela Valley as there were some security concerns and Sarah rightly didn’t want to risk security problems for the few birds we would miss. Instead we stayed in Davao and birded the Philippine Eagle Foundation and Malagos Resort instead – not ideal although we did get 2 birds we had missed elsewhere but at the expense of a few others.
Final Itinerary
Fly to Manila via Abu Dhabi – short stay in Manila Airport Hotel
Fly very early to Cagayan de Oro – breakfast on the go and start birding
5 nights Bom Bom Hotel, Malaybalay - birding the various areas in Mt Kitinglad from here. Mainly the Maputi Bird Reserve, Intavas Trail, Cinchona Forest Reserve, Sumilao and Manolo Fortich
Drive to Bislig (we stopped at Cafe Cliff, Talaingod, right by an army camp) in the hope of a couple of birds we would miss at Compostela but didn’t see the Sunbird or anything new.
5 Nights Paper Country Inn, Bislig birding Road 4, Road 42 and the Tinuy waterfalls from here
Davao City – as above and stop at Panabo Coastal Raod
Fly from Davao to Bacolod early evening – 3 nights at Henry’s Roost, Bacolod.
Birding Gawahon Eco area, Thermal Powerplant (EDC) and Mambukal Mountain Resort
Long drive to Damuguete City – 4 nights at Essencia Hotel
Birding at Liptong Woodland, Balinsasayou, and Bayawan including Denapa Research area.
2 nights in Manila before flying home.
On arrival at Manila airport we were met by Djop Tabaranza our guide for the next three weeks.
We had made contact with Djop by Whatsapp so could communicate in advance and at the airport. In our first face to face conversation with Djop he asked if we had been to the Philippines before and if so who we went with, we mentioned that our guide on Luzon and Cebu was Jops and that he had a lovely girlfriend called Maia who did some birding with us at La Mesa and the University and came to Cebu for Owling. Sarah said “I wonder if they are still together”, Djop said he knew Jops but he was certain that he wasn’t with Maia as he had been married to her for the last 5 years. Small world!!
When Djop spoke to his wife she remembered us and had written a blog about our owling experience on Cebu. Best.Owling.Yet!!!
(note - we did meet up with her at the end of the tour).
First evening after 24 hours of travelling we resorted to room service and a few hours sleep before heading to the Domestic terminal of the airport for our 4am flight to Mindanao.
Day 1 - Mt Kitanglad
The flight landed before 6am and we were having a McDonalds drive through breakfast on route to Manolo Fortich raptor watch point on Mt Kitanglad before 6.30.
We learned 2 important lessons on being ready, 1) the first bird we saw was a probable Philippine Eagle (called by local guide Ben as such due to size and all white under-parts) but we didn’t have our cameras at the ready with the right settings for Birds in Flight, Djop was usually great at grabbing a shot of any raptor flying over to review later, sods law the Eagle (sp) dropped below the treeline before we got great views or photos not to be seen again. We were not too worried as we had 6 days to see the bird including at two sites where Ben had seen them in the last week.
The second lesson was to have some sun screen accessible as we were slightly fried after a day in the sun.
We did see a fair few birds, the best of which were Asian Emerald Dove, Purple Needletails, Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle, 3 Philippine Serpent Eagles, 3 Oriental Honey Buzzards, Philippine Honey Buzzard, Grey-faced Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Collared Kingfisher, Brown-throated Kingfisher (split since our last trip), Pied Triller, Plaintive Cuckoo, Red-keeled Flowerpecker, Brown-throated Sunbird, White-bellied and Chestnut Munia and Rufous-fronted Tailorbird. Not a bad first session.
We than went for some food before heading to Cinchona Forest Reserve in the MT Kitanglad NP. In our session here we added a few of the key targets in Mindanao Hornbill, Grey-hooded Sunbird and Black and Cinnamon Fantail, the birds then got a little trickier and Blue-capped Kingfisher, Philippine Pitta and Bogoba Robin were held only; before we added White-bellied Woodpecker, Buff-spotted Flameback, Metallic Pigeon, Coleto and Philippine Hanging Parrot to our good first day list. We also bumped into a Wings Tour group who were doing a similar itinerary but over a shorter time – so interesting to compare notes as we bump into them along the way.
As we were pretty knackered we decided to forego owling tonight and head back our accommodation in Malaybalay but not before we arranged for Blackie the local Eagle expert to meet up with us tomorrow and get us access to a place where a Juvenile Eagle has been showing regularly.
Day 2 – Private Land above Cinchona.
A bit of a mix up with breakfast, chef didn’t get the message get in early to do a take-away breakfast for us, so we went across to Jellibee for a quick breakfast before the drive up to Mt Kitanglad. We stopped at some woodland near to the place we were meeting Blackie and had quite a good start with; Philippine Bulbul, Mugamaki Flycatcher, Hanging Parrot, Warbling White-eye, Rufous-headed Tailorbird and Turquoise Flycatcher all seen before Blackie met up with us at 7.30.
We were going into a private dwelling with great views over a valley where the Eagle had been showing regularly, the Wings groups would be joining us for a few hours as it was there lost morning in the area and they still needed the Eagle. No problem as there was a large watch area and more eyes may help. Long story short no Philippine Eagle by noon and the Wings group had to leave for Bislig, all we had were Pinskers Hawk Eagle, Serpent Eagle, Brahminy Kite, both Honey Buzzards and some smaller birds including Coppersmith Barbet, Buzzing Flowerpecker, Ridgetop Swiftlet and Sulphur-billed Nuthatch.
Gio our driver went off to get us a take-away lunch – really good, it turned out to be. This afternoon we would walk up to a ridge that offers a different view point to the area we have watched this morning, Sarah felt really tired and struggled at times to walk up the steep track but eventually we got there. We saw plenty of Kites and Buzzards but no sign of the young eagle, however we did add Red-keeled Flowerpecker, Pied Triller, Elegant Tit, and White-cheeked Bullfinch.
We stopped at the Forest Reserve HQ for some owling on the way back to town, as darkness fell we could hear 2 scops owls species calling, I chose to try for Mindanao Scops Owl first as it was much rarer than the other owl and very range restricted, it took us quite a while before we eventually got to see the bird and the photograph I managed was record only but I was told by Ben that it is the least photographed off all the owls in the Philippines, so I was pretty glad to get it. When we did eventually try for Everett’s (aka Mindanao Lowland Scops Owl) the bird had gone too far into the forest, so would come back for him.
We had wanted to return to the Philippines since 2014 when we visited Luzon, Bohol, Cebu and Palawan. However we kept hoping that the security situation on Mindanao our prime target destination would improve but in the intervening years it got worse with the west of the island now off limits (a no travel advisory – from both UK and US) and more recently, travel not recommended to the rest of the country (apart from Davao where it is deemed OK by US).
We are aren’t getting any younger and with no improvements imminent and a May 25 election possibly causing further security issues. We discussed a trip with Alain Pascau from Birdfinders.ph at the 2024 Global Birdfair. Alain was pretty sure that he could put a safe itinerary together that got us access to the majority of the Mindanao endemics and other range restricted birds. Particularly if we were willing to be flexible and make changes if any security issues are highlighted in a radius around our birding our accommodation sites.
Birdfinders.ph did not have a foreign rep or any means of guaranteeing funds, getting ATOL bonding, etc. so he suggested we go through 2by2holidays (we dealt with Susan) who we dealt with throughout and had used on a previous trip to Namibia a couple of years ago.
We added Negros to the itinerary as offering a good haul of targets but decided not to add Northern Luzon as the birds on offer were not huge, so Luzon was just a stop off / relax destination.
The itinerary did change quite a bit through the 5 months since we arranged the trip, the main ones being staying 5 days in each of 2 locations in Mindanao and travelling from these; Malaybalay and Bislig to our birding sites. Then a few weeks before departure we had to drop Mt Tagubud and Compostela Valley as there were some security concerns and Sarah rightly didn’t want to risk security problems for the few birds we would miss. Instead we stayed in Davao and birded the Philippine Eagle Foundation and Malagos Resort instead – not ideal although we did get 2 birds we had missed elsewhere but at the expense of a few others.
Final Itinerary
Fly to Manila via Abu Dhabi – short stay in Manila Airport Hotel
Fly very early to Cagayan de Oro – breakfast on the go and start birding
5 nights Bom Bom Hotel, Malaybalay - birding the various areas in Mt Kitinglad from here. Mainly the Maputi Bird Reserve, Intavas Trail, Cinchona Forest Reserve, Sumilao and Manolo Fortich
Drive to Bislig (we stopped at Cafe Cliff, Talaingod, right by an army camp) in the hope of a couple of birds we would miss at Compostela but didn’t see the Sunbird or anything new.
5 Nights Paper Country Inn, Bislig birding Road 4, Road 42 and the Tinuy waterfalls from here
Davao City – as above and stop at Panabo Coastal Raod
Fly from Davao to Bacolod early evening – 3 nights at Henry’s Roost, Bacolod.
Birding Gawahon Eco area, Thermal Powerplant (EDC) and Mambukal Mountain Resort
Long drive to Damuguete City – 4 nights at Essencia Hotel
Birding at Liptong Woodland, Balinsasayou, and Bayawan including Denapa Research area.
2 nights in Manila before flying home.
On arrival at Manila airport we were met by Djop Tabaranza our guide for the next three weeks.
We had made contact with Djop by Whatsapp so could communicate in advance and at the airport. In our first face to face conversation with Djop he asked if we had been to the Philippines before and if so who we went with, we mentioned that our guide on Luzon and Cebu was Jops and that he had a lovely girlfriend called Maia who did some birding with us at La Mesa and the University and came to Cebu for Owling. Sarah said “I wonder if they are still together”, Djop said he knew Jops but he was certain that he wasn’t with Maia as he had been married to her for the last 5 years. Small world!!
When Djop spoke to his wife she remembered us and had written a blog about our owling experience on Cebu. Best.Owling.Yet!!!
(note - we did meet up with her at the end of the tour).
First evening after 24 hours of travelling we resorted to room service and a few hours sleep before heading to the Domestic terminal of the airport for our 4am flight to Mindanao.
Day 1 - Mt Kitanglad
The flight landed before 6am and we were having a McDonalds drive through breakfast on route to Manolo Fortich raptor watch point on Mt Kitanglad before 6.30.
We learned 2 important lessons on being ready, 1) the first bird we saw was a probable Philippine Eagle (called by local guide Ben as such due to size and all white under-parts) but we didn’t have our cameras at the ready with the right settings for Birds in Flight, Djop was usually great at grabbing a shot of any raptor flying over to review later, sods law the Eagle (sp) dropped below the treeline before we got great views or photos not to be seen again. We were not too worried as we had 6 days to see the bird including at two sites where Ben had seen them in the last week.
The second lesson was to have some sun screen accessible as we were slightly fried after a day in the sun.
We did see a fair few birds, the best of which were Asian Emerald Dove, Purple Needletails, Pinsker’s Hawk Eagle, 3 Philippine Serpent Eagles, 3 Oriental Honey Buzzards, Philippine Honey Buzzard, Grey-faced Buzzard, Black-winged Kite, Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Collared Kingfisher, Brown-throated Kingfisher (split since our last trip), Pied Triller, Plaintive Cuckoo, Red-keeled Flowerpecker, Brown-throated Sunbird, White-bellied and Chestnut Munia and Rufous-fronted Tailorbird. Not a bad first session.
We than went for some food before heading to Cinchona Forest Reserve in the MT Kitanglad NP. In our session here we added a few of the key targets in Mindanao Hornbill, Grey-hooded Sunbird and Black and Cinnamon Fantail, the birds then got a little trickier and Blue-capped Kingfisher, Philippine Pitta and Bogoba Robin were held only; before we added White-bellied Woodpecker, Buff-spotted Flameback, Metallic Pigeon, Coleto and Philippine Hanging Parrot to our good first day list. We also bumped into a Wings Tour group who were doing a similar itinerary but over a shorter time – so interesting to compare notes as we bump into them along the way.
As we were pretty knackered we decided to forego owling tonight and head back our accommodation in Malaybalay but not before we arranged for Blackie the local Eagle expert to meet up with us tomorrow and get us access to a place where a Juvenile Eagle has been showing regularly.
Day 2 – Private Land above Cinchona.
A bit of a mix up with breakfast, chef didn’t get the message get in early to do a take-away breakfast for us, so we went across to Jellibee for a quick breakfast before the drive up to Mt Kitanglad. We stopped at some woodland near to the place we were meeting Blackie and had quite a good start with; Philippine Bulbul, Mugamaki Flycatcher, Hanging Parrot, Warbling White-eye, Rufous-headed Tailorbird and Turquoise Flycatcher all seen before Blackie met up with us at 7.30.
We were going into a private dwelling with great views over a valley where the Eagle had been showing regularly, the Wings groups would be joining us for a few hours as it was there lost morning in the area and they still needed the Eagle. No problem as there was a large watch area and more eyes may help. Long story short no Philippine Eagle by noon and the Wings group had to leave for Bislig, all we had were Pinskers Hawk Eagle, Serpent Eagle, Brahminy Kite, both Honey Buzzards and some smaller birds including Coppersmith Barbet, Buzzing Flowerpecker, Ridgetop Swiftlet and Sulphur-billed Nuthatch.
Gio our driver went off to get us a take-away lunch – really good, it turned out to be. This afternoon we would walk up to a ridge that offers a different view point to the area we have watched this morning, Sarah felt really tired and struggled at times to walk up the steep track but eventually we got there. We saw plenty of Kites and Buzzards but no sign of the young eagle, however we did add Red-keeled Flowerpecker, Pied Triller, Elegant Tit, and White-cheeked Bullfinch.
We stopped at the Forest Reserve HQ for some owling on the way back to town, as darkness fell we could hear 2 scops owls species calling, I chose to try for Mindanao Scops Owl first as it was much rarer than the other owl and very range restricted, it took us quite a while before we eventually got to see the bird and the photograph I managed was record only but I was told by Ben that it is the least photographed off all the owls in the Philippines, so I was pretty glad to get it. When we did eventually try for Everett’s (aka Mindanao Lowland Scops Owl) the bird had gone too far into the forest, so would come back for him.